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Messages - Pacecarjeff

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1
General Discussion / Re: Hood Insulation "keepers"
« on: September 28, 2021, 11:33:14 PM »
The clips certainly were a challenge for me back in 2018. They are still holding great with never an issue.
Here was the thread back then that visited many solutions.  --->   http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=16256.msg155879#msg155879

2
Install the Booster assembly first.
Go under the dash, and turn the push rod till the rod puts the clevis in the correct position for the pin to go through..
Tighten the nut so the clevis does not move.

The pedal should be high enough to push against the brake light switch.
Install your clevis pin, and use the special locking wedge retainer thingy.  You really don't want that part to come undone - EVER.
If needed you can adjust the light switch till you have your personal desired activation height..

Now with MC loosely in place - install the brake lines to the MC.  I like to have the lines in place before I bolt down the master cylinder. - just seems easier
Bleed the lines. Start the car check break pedal function.  Make sure your brake lights come on when you press the pedal, and make sure that your pedal does not hit the floor.  Check fluid level, and look for leaks.    Piece of cake....  ;)

3
Originality / Re: 69 Booster Replacement
« on: June 18, 2019, 02:22:35 AM »
easy removal.  15 minutes tops.

1) un-clip the booster rod from the pedal bracket.
2) remove the 2 master cylinder nuts and push the assembly forward- (no need to loosen the lines)
3) remove the 4 nuts with a longish 9/16" closed end wrench.  (all done from above)
4) pull the booster. 

Piece of cake....

4
Garage Talk / Re: Car Lift
« on: June 14, 2019, 04:53:37 PM »
I've had my Mohawk 2 post lift for over 15 years.  With an 8 ft. garage ceiling, the wife's car can still fit between the hanging down wheels.
A 4 post would never allow that. - - No, I can't stand completely upright underneath, so I use a reclining office chair - works just fine.  :D

5
Originality / Re: Trunk decal for posi traction
« on: February 14, 2019, 09:43:20 PM »
What kind of adhesive would you recommend for the plain paper back, Jeff?


Mike

Just drizzle a little contact cement from home depot. It is yellowish.  :)

6
Originality / Re: Trunk decal for posi traction
« on: February 13, 2019, 05:32:44 PM »
My trunk labels are EXACTLY duplicated  from a perfect original that I had saved for 30 years.
And yes, I can provide them either way - sticky back or plain paper.

After they age a bit, they are indistinguishable from the originals.
I get $7.35 on ebay, or $6 at www.pacecarjeff.com, but  If that is the only thing you need - ebay is cheaper cause of free freight.
Remember, I offer a discount on everything for my fellow CRG members and NCRS Members. so just ask...
every single label should have the date on it - if not it is an incorrect reproduction.

thanks, Jeff


7
Garage Talk / We got some of the local 67's together this weekend.
« on: December 31, 2018, 06:45:48 PM »
We got some of the local 67's together this weekend.
67 IPCs engine options here are: L48, L35, L78  We let the SS350 hardtop participate too.  We like him..  lol
It was quite a traffic jam this afternoon....  ;)

8
Original Cars and Details / Re: 69 low mile Convertible details
« on: December 31, 2018, 06:35:52 PM »
really nice car. nice pictures. thanks for sharing.  :)

9
Restoration / Re: Under Hood Insulation 68 SS
« on: December 26, 2018, 02:00:50 AM »
Ok, I tried all the other recommendations, not all would hold securely.  Some popped out over night.
Some seem to hold, but I really don't trust them.

I think I found the definitive solution...
I took a 1/16" vacuum port cap and pushed it over the clip, went most of the way down, but left a little on top.
They must be pushed in forcefully, but these are in FOR GOOD.  Pretty sure I would have to break them to get them out.
These are not going anywhere EVER....    :D

10
Restoration / Re: Under Hood Insulation 68 SS
« on: December 23, 2018, 05:36:29 PM »
Off to my shop today to grab some more originals.  Something that should be so easy...  lol :(

11
Restoration / Re: Under Hood Insulation 68 SS
« on: December 22, 2018, 11:31:33 PM »
Many of them worked just right - but still have 4 or 5 problem holes.  Even the flat top clips won't stay in place.  :(

12
Restoration / Re: Under Hood Insulation 68 SS
« on: December 22, 2018, 09:13:09 PM »
Gonna try this right now.  Thank you...  edit: Mike S, this seems to be working very nicely...   :D

oh... FYI,  I did not have any metric tools, so I used a 1-3/8"  seemed to also work just as well...   lol  :P

13
Restoration / Re: Under Hood Insulation 68 SS
« on: December 22, 2018, 08:56:46 PM »
Only 2 held.  This is very frustrating to say the least.
My polite way of saying.... lol   

14
Restoration / Re: Under Hood Insulation 68 SS
« on: December 22, 2018, 08:02:58 PM »
I did cut some of the retainer with an exacto knife, made the flairs a little bigger. That seems to be holding at least the first one did. thanks for the help I probably should have tried that right away.

15
Restoration / Re: Under Hood Insulation 68 SS
« on: December 22, 2018, 07:19:47 PM »
What did you do about the clips not holding?  I just got my REM pad - -the original clips wound not hold.
this new pad is thicker than the one i got from them 20 years ago. 
Back then the clips were a challenge, but eventually got them all to hold.

I even went and bought a set of the repro CHQ clips, that are advertised as being longer, but they work worse then the originals.  won't grab for even a minute.  For now I have the fat plain ones on - hoping that over time i can switch them one at a time as the pad settles into place.
The color seems a little greener then I remember, but that doesn't bother me.
Any other ideas or recommendations?  anyone modify their original clips in any way?  Duct tape?  lol
thanks.....  J

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