1
Maintenance / Re: OEM 4 Speed Shifter Removal Procedure?
« on: July 02, 2019, 01:34:34 AM »
Thanks for the information Mike.
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2
Maintenance / Re: OEM 4 Speed Shifter Removal Procedure?
« on: July 01, 2019, 09:01:51 AM »
I've put a pic of the reverse lockout "band" I have from the spare shifter parts. Would someone verify if it is still good? My cars original shifter lockout band was definitely broke because it came apart in 3 pieces... This other shifter that I have had laying around in pieces (don't even remember taking it apart 30+ years ago nor why) has a band that is out that appears to be ok but I'm not sure. It coils around on itself with an overlap but no connection.
The brand new NOS piece I purchased unknown to me had the tip center compression plunger "frozen" in place. My neighbor put the shifter rebuilt with that back in, got frustrated when it didn't work pulled it back out, tore the shifter apart again far enough that he could compress the plunger in with a pliers (but didn't want to take the time to remove that assembly from the carrier properly soak /lube it ...) . After it broke free and moved in a couple of times (but in a clunky manner" he sprayed it with WD-40, reassembled it, put the shifter back in and it takes a great deal of effort to get it to go into reverse [with the shift linkage rod not connected] with a big pop just like the plunger motion that he popped loose and hastily/impatiently reassembled into the shifter. He got frustrated and threw in the towel and said he is done and I should just get a Hurst and be done with it... I informed him that wouldn't be done and that would miss the point of originality... He still is fed up and won't pull it out again...
I'm hoping if I can show him a piece with a smooth functioning lockout I can convince him to do it one more time. I managed to talk my caregiver through disassembly of my old one/original one from my car and almost everything came apart ok except the "washer" is frozen on the end of the ball bearing carrier (but she was even able to recover all 6 ball bearings and get the red/orange colored plastic cap off without cracking it). If she can locate a washer for it in my spare shifter parts I think there is enough pieces to reassemble a "FIRST DESIGN" unit - assuming the band is good as shown/described... I cringe going that rout because the money and time invested in the SECOND DESIGN purchased, but I can't get people to work on it as is and this is just dragging out so long it is crazy (can't go into details but I'm also losing $350 a month in interest in debt I can't pay off without selling the car - so the delays do represent cost, but I also don't want to be backed into a corner where I have to accept a less than value price on the car because it needs this basic mechanical work...)
Sorry, I'm just very frustrated [but still patient with the people helping me] and need to coordinate getting it done as soon as possible, I think my brother-in-law will be here Wednesday and I would like to be as prepared for the things that he can do as possible...
The brand new NOS piece I purchased unknown to me had the tip center compression plunger "frozen" in place. My neighbor put the shifter rebuilt with that back in, got frustrated when it didn't work pulled it back out, tore the shifter apart again far enough that he could compress the plunger in with a pliers (but didn't want to take the time to remove that assembly from the carrier properly soak /lube it ...) . After it broke free and moved in a couple of times (but in a clunky manner" he sprayed it with WD-40, reassembled it, put the shifter back in and it takes a great deal of effort to get it to go into reverse [with the shift linkage rod not connected] with a big pop just like the plunger motion that he popped loose and hastily/impatiently reassembled into the shifter. He got frustrated and threw in the towel and said he is done and I should just get a Hurst and be done with it... I informed him that wouldn't be done and that would miss the point of originality... He still is fed up and won't pull it out again...
I'm hoping if I can show him a piece with a smooth functioning lockout I can convince him to do it one more time. I managed to talk my caregiver through disassembly of my old one/original one from my car and almost everything came apart ok except the "washer" is frozen on the end of the ball bearing carrier (but she was even able to recover all 6 ball bearings and get the red/orange colored plastic cap off without cracking it). If she can locate a washer for it in my spare shifter parts I think there is enough pieces to reassemble a "FIRST DESIGN" unit - assuming the band is good as shown/described... I cringe going that rout because the money and time invested in the SECOND DESIGN purchased, but I can't get people to work on it as is and this is just dragging out so long it is crazy (can't go into details but I'm also losing $350 a month in interest in debt I can't pay off without selling the car - so the delays do represent cost, but I also don't want to be backed into a corner where I have to accept a less than value price on the car because it needs this basic mechanical work...)
Sorry, I'm just very frustrated [but still patient with the people helping me] and need to coordinate getting it done as soon as possible, I think my brother-in-law will be here Wednesday and I would like to be as prepared for the things that he can do as possible...
3
Maintenance / Re: OEM 4 Speed Shifter Removal Procedure?
« on: June 27, 2019, 08:12:12 AM »
HELP - LAST MINUTE QUESTION OR CONCERN. It is 2:30 AM and I'm laying here and something has been eating at me since I observed my caregiver complete installation / swap of the new parts. She had to "tap" in with a fair amount of resistance Item #25 while assembling the new SECOND DESIGN. The original combination of components of my shifter (FIRST DESIGN) did NOT have an Item #25. The second Muncie shifter I had bought in 1984 I can see did have it... The new Reverse Lockout seems good, but there is what appears to be a significant amount of "drag" between the shift levers... if you hold one, another can be moved with moderate force, BUT I FEAR THIS MAY RESULT IN A SITUATION OF THE TRANSMISSION TRYING TO GO INTO TWO GEARS AT ONCE... It has been a long time and I don't remember how much torque it takes for rotation/engagement of each gear selector on the Muncie transmission.
My initial impression was maybe it was a good thing everything would be snug in the shifter... I was thinking it would probably kind of work its way in after a number (two or three dozen) of shift movements and loosen some. Might be a good quality/new feel. But it just seemed after thinking about it that it could be a problem to the transmission itself. I've had two caregivers demonstrate for me the drag resistance between the shift arms... They have enough drag between them to make me nervous.
My neighbor is coming over around lunch time to reinstall the shifter. I don't want him to go through all that work only to find out that there is an issue and have to pull it back out (or worse damage the transmission)... but I also fear that if Item #25 is removed that the shifter could have a real sloppy feel. Any advice or gut feel as to what I should do? Bothering/finding people with time to work on it for me is hard enough without having to ask them to do it twice... ANY EXPERIENCE / FEEL FOR THIS ONE. Do you know if every shifter is supposed to necessarily have Item #25? Am I just worried for nothing? (sucks to not be able to do any of this myself, but it is my reality)...
My initial impression was maybe it was a good thing everything would be snug in the shifter... I was thinking it would probably kind of work its way in after a number (two or three dozen) of shift movements and loosen some. Might be a good quality/new feel. But it just seemed after thinking about it that it could be a problem to the transmission itself. I've had two caregivers demonstrate for me the drag resistance between the shift arms... They have enough drag between them to make me nervous.
My neighbor is coming over around lunch time to reinstall the shifter. I don't want him to go through all that work only to find out that there is an issue and have to pull it back out (or worse damage the transmission)... but I also fear that if Item #25 is removed that the shifter could have a real sloppy feel. Any advice or gut feel as to what I should do? Bothering/finding people with time to work on it for me is hard enough without having to ask them to do it twice... ANY EXPERIENCE / FEEL FOR THIS ONE. Do you know if every shifter is supposed to necessarily have Item #25? Am I just worried for nothing? (sucks to not be able to do any of this myself, but it is my reality)...
4
Maintenance / Re: OEM 4 Speed Shifter Removal Procedure?
« on: June 20, 2019, 07:25:42 PM »
Side by side comparison of "FIRST DESIGN" & "SECOND DESIGN"
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Maintenance / Re: OEM 4 Speed Shifter Removal Procedure?
« on: June 20, 2019, 06:51:43 PM »
I started digging through the GM part numbering / catalogs and found three revisions of this replacement part [#3988379, #325050, and #3923540]. One revision for the lockout assy is #325050. After searching availability for each of the revisions I came across a seller with one of this part number that for me was still a very steep price ($69 plus shipping) but given the task is still going to be extremely difficult to get some of my friends to do this part comes pre-assembled and should be far more robust than the original "FIRST DESIGN". i'll also be able to know that my car will be sold to someone that should never have a problem with this item again.
Note, I also found sellers trying to get $225 (on an Oldsmobile site) and one on eBay at $90 just for the "pin". I think the pin necessitated the control shift lever it inserts in to be a different part # because I think it may require a larger hole for that pin than the "FIRST DESIGN".
Attached are pics of the part purchased.
Note, I also found sellers trying to get $225 (on an Oldsmobile site) and one on eBay at $90 just for the "pin". I think the pin necessitated the control shift lever it inserts in to be a different part # because I think it may require a larger hole for that pin than the "FIRST DESIGN".
Attached are pics of the part purchased.
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Maintenance / Re: OEM 4 Speed Shifter Removal Procedure?
« on: June 20, 2019, 10:04:12 AM »
Yes, I've seen it in the past, but I never took notice of / didn't remember the part on the reverse lockout... Did not seem interesting, that is of course until you have that break and then it is very interesting, Still one thing is a bit puzzling as the description of the First Design clearly list it has a spring but the exploded view does not seem to show one, but the Second Design clearly does (Item #18)...
The obvious question at this point is what is the fix? Service parts don't seem to be available [except a couple of listings of the Second Design "LOCK OUT ASSY" pin at at RIDICULOUSLY high price]. Is there an easy replacement for the band? What if one or more of the ball bearings is lost? Is there a reproduction source for the simpler Second Design? Is the spring common between the two designs? What is the "Retainer Ring" made of (metal or rubber?)...]. If I was able bodied I'd improvise a "Second Design" with a suitable Grade 3 bolt ground down a bit, ground flat on the head, and matched with a comparable spring / retainer... but I'm not and need friends to do everything.
Based on Mike S reply/comments (thank you Mike) and review of pics I found / AIM documentation I compiled a draft procedure for the removal of the shifter assembly (remember I'm asking complete novices to do this work for me). Tonight I ask my evening caregiver (young, good mechanical aptitude, great attitude to do the first part (2 pages of steps "in the car"), and she has no experience whatsoever working on cars) and it went ok except one unforeseen hiccup - the chrome lock color of the two piece shift knob is frozen on the shift handle stud... but somehow she was able to get the console shift plate assembly, Item #10, and the floor boot to come past it. Is the answer soaking the stud with Liquid Wrench? It did not seem like it was corroded...
I get the impression this is a typical issue because the original Muncie monogramed shift handle in my car when I bought it (1983) was broke off and welded back on (looked bad and we didn't trust it so my Dad swapped it out with another he found at the auto salvage yard he worked part time at, but it did not have the word "Muncie" on it and my original L30M20 was a Saginaw anyhow... but ironically I blew that the first time I tried to do a burn out and we were putting a Muncie in...).
Based on feedback my brother-in-law gave me based on his initial attempt to remove the shifter I think that collar is going to interfere/catch on the lip of the opening based on the steep angle required to pull it out/clear the transmission.... so it will likely need to come off and I don't want it to be broken off this one...
I would appreciate review and constructive feedback on the attached procedure (as I'm defining it as I think it should go only based on visioning it in my head)...
Thanks,
Dan
The obvious question at this point is what is the fix? Service parts don't seem to be available [except a couple of listings of the Second Design "LOCK OUT ASSY" pin at at RIDICULOUSLY high price]. Is there an easy replacement for the band? What if one or more of the ball bearings is lost? Is there a reproduction source for the simpler Second Design? Is the spring common between the two designs? What is the "Retainer Ring" made of (metal or rubber?)...]. If I was able bodied I'd improvise a "Second Design" with a suitable Grade 3 bolt ground down a bit, ground flat on the head, and matched with a comparable spring / retainer... but I'm not and need friends to do everything.
Based on Mike S reply/comments (thank you Mike) and review of pics I found / AIM documentation I compiled a draft procedure for the removal of the shifter assembly (remember I'm asking complete novices to do this work for me). Tonight I ask my evening caregiver (young, good mechanical aptitude, great attitude to do the first part (2 pages of steps "in the car"), and she has no experience whatsoever working on cars) and it went ok except one unforeseen hiccup - the chrome lock color of the two piece shift knob is frozen on the shift handle stud... but somehow she was able to get the console shift plate assembly, Item #10, and the floor boot to come past it. Is the answer soaking the stud with Liquid Wrench? It did not seem like it was corroded...
I get the impression this is a typical issue because the original Muncie monogramed shift handle in my car when I bought it (1983) was broke off and welded back on (looked bad and we didn't trust it so my Dad swapped it out with another he found at the auto salvage yard he worked part time at, but it did not have the word "Muncie" on it and my original L30M20 was a Saginaw anyhow... but ironically I blew that the first time I tried to do a burn out and we were putting a Muncie in...).
Based on feedback my brother-in-law gave me based on his initial attempt to remove the shifter I think that collar is going to interfere/catch on the lip of the opening based on the steep angle required to pull it out/clear the transmission.... so it will likely need to come off and I don't want it to be broken off this one...
I would appreciate review and constructive feedback on the attached procedure (as I'm defining it as I think it should go only based on visioning it in my head)...
Thanks,
Dan
7
Maintenance / Re: OEM 4 Speed Shifter Removal Procedure?
« on: June 18, 2019, 09:08:57 PM »
NOTE!: THERE ARE TWO DIFFERENT DESIGNS! I have some pics of the pieces that were scrounged together of the swap meet shifter and it is the "SECOND DESIGN". Yours (and likely the one in my original early production car) has the "FIRST DESIGN". Notice the note at the bottom of the GM document instructing to use "SECOND DESIGN", I have to conclude the "FIRST DESIGN" is prone to exactly the failure that occurred to yours (and likely mine) and GM introduced a mid model year change to correct it... Now I have to hope all the little pieces are still in my box of the swap meet shifter that was disassembled...
I was just bit by a comparable issue with my numbers matching original Quadraject Carburetor. Early first months of 67 model year production had a fault prone float "plunger design" shut off that got redesigned typical needle and seat introduced. Fortunately they produce an internal retrofit kit to upgrade that issue and the internals in mine needed upgraded for today's modern fuels and their incompatibility to the older sealing components anyhow. It is really surprising that the plunger design in mine survived until I parked it in storage back in 1985.
I was just bit by a comparable issue with my numbers matching original Quadraject Carburetor. Early first months of 67 model year production had a fault prone float "plunger design" shut off that got redesigned typical needle and seat introduced. Fortunately they produce an internal retrofit kit to upgrade that issue and the internals in mine needed upgraded for today's modern fuels and their incompatibility to the older sealing components anyhow. It is really surprising that the plunger design in mine survived until I parked it in storage back in 1985.
8
Maintenance / Re: OEM 4 Speed Shifter Removal Procedure?
« on: June 18, 2019, 03:48:30 PM »
Thanks for replying Mike. I'll study the pics and AIM illustrations and advise whoever I can find to work on it to follow your suggestion. I have to admit I'm drawing a blank on the "ball bearings" reference. There is is the pivot pin the handle mounts on and a spring to bias the handle away from the reverse path of the shift pattern, but I don't remember anything beyond that has a solid "lockout"... Mine is a very early production 67 (Nov 66') so maybe the M20 shifter did not have it then? I've scanned the M20 illustrations in the AIM (pgs 316 - 320) and really don't quite get to that breakdown. Found a pic on eBay (hopefully included with this post). Is this what you are referring to? I guess it is concealed until full disassembly.
I'll have to compile step-by-step instructions for this procedure with pics and correlating illustrations if there is any hope of getting it out and being repaired... I just fear this has set me back another month or more in being able to sell it (without some con guy trying to argue the price down a grand for a shifter repair... everything I need to do now turns into a nightmare - while able bodied I would have dug into it on Saturday morning and been done sometime after lunch)
Nobody I ever get to work on it has any experience with this stuff (and the guys I do know with expertise always want to haul my car to their shops or they won't work on it - and they have too muck "traffic" of people I don't know wandering thru... so I'm not risking that)
I'll have to compile step-by-step instructions for this procedure with pics and correlating illustrations if there is any hope of getting it out and being repaired... I just fear this has set me back another month or more in being able to sell it (without some con guy trying to argue the price down a grand for a shifter repair... everything I need to do now turns into a nightmare - while able bodied I would have dug into it on Saturday morning and been done sometime after lunch)
Nobody I ever get to work on it has any experience with this stuff (and the guys I do know with expertise always want to haul my car to their shops or they won't work on it - and they have too muck "traffic" of people I don't know wandering thru... so I'm not risking that)
9
Maintenance / OEM 4 Speed Shifter Removal Procedure?
« on: June 18, 2019, 04:55:51 AM »
Looking for help with defining the easiest procedure to remove the factory 4 Speed shifter. I know that sounds odd but here is why.
I haven't done it since I was 17 (that was 1983). Now at 53 I'm paralyzed and having friends help me bring my car, which has been stored since 1985, up to snuff so I can sell it. In 1984 I purchased a Muncie imprinted shifter at a car show parts swap meet. A couple of months ago I had my broher-in-law swap the handle into my car. (at some point I had disassembled the swap meet shifter, which was in need of a rebuild so the handle was ready for install). I thought it was just removing one pin in the shifter and a straight forward exchange. Turns out it was not that easy (at least not with all the interferences in the car). He was bound and determined to do it in the car and spent 7 hours working on it.
We thought it was all good. Yesterday my neighbor got in and was trying to put it in reverse and something in the shifter came apart and it doesn't work now. I think the only option is to pull it out. If I recall it can't be done without undoing the transmission crossmember and moving it back... Is that correct? My car does have a console too.
I haven't done it since I was 17 (that was 1983). Now at 53 I'm paralyzed and having friends help me bring my car, which has been stored since 1985, up to snuff so I can sell it. In 1984 I purchased a Muncie imprinted shifter at a car show parts swap meet. A couple of months ago I had my broher-in-law swap the handle into my car. (at some point I had disassembled the swap meet shifter, which was in need of a rebuild so the handle was ready for install). I thought it was just removing one pin in the shifter and a straight forward exchange. Turns out it was not that easy (at least not with all the interferences in the car). He was bound and determined to do it in the car and spent 7 hours working on it.
We thought it was all good. Yesterday my neighbor got in and was trying to put it in reverse and something in the shifter came apart and it doesn't work now. I think the only option is to pull it out. If I recall it can't be done without undoing the transmission crossmember and moving it back... Is that correct? My car does have a console too.
10
Originality / Re: CRG Report on Fan Blades question
« on: October 22, 2018, 07:02:52 PM »
Thank you for the replies! My car is an L30 "MK" engine (275 hp, 327 cu in)
Based on the responses I suspect that the non-continuous design was used. Late last night I found example pics online (attached) of an 1 15/16" spacer with taller centering nub that looks like it would work with the continuous rib design...
Once assembled I suppose nobody would know the difference, but now actually 35 years later I'm disappointed with my teenage decisions (throwing stuff out). Fortunately I did have my father's guidance that kept me from throwing away the original intake/Quadrajet carb when I put on the aluminum intake/Holley carb. That Holley never did run right (pops & bangs on decal) no matter how many jet changes I tried. But that was "water over the dam" a year later when I put the original carb/intake back on and it ran great.
Anyhow, my frustration on this is lessened as I believe your cars (vs. report pic) represent the actual production parts referenced with the spacer in the report. Again, Thank you very much!
Based on the responses I suspect that the non-continuous design was used. Late last night I found example pics online (attached) of an 1 15/16" spacer with taller centering nub that looks like it would work with the continuous rib design...
Once assembled I suppose nobody would know the difference, but now actually 35 years later I'm disappointed with my teenage decisions (throwing stuff out). Fortunately I did have my father's guidance that kept me from throwing away the original intake/Quadrajet carb when I put on the aluminum intake/Holley carb. That Holley never did run right (pops & bangs on decal) no matter how many jet changes I tried. But that was "water over the dam" a year later when I put the original carb/intake back on and it ran great.
Anyhow, my frustration on this is lessened as I believe your cars (vs. report pic) represent the actual production parts referenced with the spacer in the report. Again, Thank you very much!
11
Originality / CRG Report on Fan Blades question
« on: October 21, 2018, 04:15:25 PM »
If I was physically able I would be pulling my hair out!… Because of my disability I am forced to depend on internet documentation (photos, part numbers, parts suppliers, etc.) for all of my part purchase guidance. Then I have to bother friends to come do my wrenching. I keep getting burned and wasting other peoples time and my money I don’t have.
[NOTE: THIS IS NOT MEANT TO BE A BLAMING STATEMENT/ TONE] I want to be able to turn to the CRG site / reports as the final say, but even something as basic as the correct 4 Blade Engine Cooling Fan report is throwing me a curve. Should be simple…., Correct 67 fan for my car = part number #3839282 and spacer #3814241. My dilemma is this, the photo in the CRG Report (cooling systems - fan blades) shows the strengthening ribs running continuous through the centering hole. The spacer and fan blade don't appear to be compatible... I can find multiple examples of the centering nub on the spacer is not very tall / pronounced (which matches my memory from 34 years ago for what that is worth). There is even an eBay listing of a NOS #3814241 spacer right now with the short nub (see included pic) .
The CRG Report shows 2 spacers below the 67-68 fan photo. The one on the left #3876828 is most like #3814241 (which makes sense since I think both are to interface with the same 4 blade fan). But the offset surface of the ribbed center is too deep to engage that short nub. The taller nub on the #3927792 spacer for 69 would work, but that spacer itself is not the necessary thickness.
The stamping off-set of the ribs raises the centering hole away from the mating / contact plane of the 4 hole pattern surface necessitating a taller centering nub on the end of the spacer… I have seen multiple examples of 4 blade fans that claim to also be part number #3839282 that the reinforcement ribs do NOT continue through the center. There are truck fans #3881239 that include a third piece/flat plate with centering hole riveted to the assembly on the spacer side to aid the centering, but passenger car fans do not seem to include this added plate [not to mention the tolerance variation introduced by the third part in the assembly is not a good thing with higher rpm engines]. Also, the 4 attachment bolts have too much clearance to depend on them to center the assembly (water pump bearing would not last long with the fan weight not centered).
WHAT IS THE CORRECT FAN? With or Without formed ribs passing through the center? CRG photo shows ribs thru, I don’t want to waste more money/ buy one type of fan and need to get another spacer. But I want to have the factory match that came on my car (and I threw out as as a teenager in favor of a light weight fiberglass performance fan…). This shouldn’t be that complicated, but everything I try to do seems to snowball into confusion these days.
[NOTE: THIS IS NOT MEANT TO BE A BLAMING STATEMENT/ TONE] I want to be able to turn to the CRG site / reports as the final say, but even something as basic as the correct 4 Blade Engine Cooling Fan report is throwing me a curve. Should be simple…., Correct 67 fan for my car = part number #3839282 and spacer #3814241. My dilemma is this, the photo in the CRG Report (cooling systems - fan blades) shows the strengthening ribs running continuous through the centering hole. The spacer and fan blade don't appear to be compatible... I can find multiple examples of the centering nub on the spacer is not very tall / pronounced (which matches my memory from 34 years ago for what that is worth). There is even an eBay listing of a NOS #3814241 spacer right now with the short nub (see included pic) .
The CRG Report shows 2 spacers below the 67-68 fan photo. The one on the left #3876828 is most like #3814241 (which makes sense since I think both are to interface with the same 4 blade fan). But the offset surface of the ribbed center is too deep to engage that short nub. The taller nub on the #3927792 spacer for 69 would work, but that spacer itself is not the necessary thickness.
The stamping off-set of the ribs raises the centering hole away from the mating / contact plane of the 4 hole pattern surface necessitating a taller centering nub on the end of the spacer… I have seen multiple examples of 4 blade fans that claim to also be part number #3839282 that the reinforcement ribs do NOT continue through the center. There are truck fans #3881239 that include a third piece/flat plate with centering hole riveted to the assembly on the spacer side to aid the centering, but passenger car fans do not seem to include this added plate [not to mention the tolerance variation introduced by the third part in the assembly is not a good thing with higher rpm engines]. Also, the 4 attachment bolts have too much clearance to depend on them to center the assembly (water pump bearing would not last long with the fan weight not centered).
WHAT IS THE CORRECT FAN? With or Without formed ribs passing through the center? CRG photo shows ribs thru, I don’t want to waste more money/ buy one type of fan and need to get another spacer. But I want to have the factory match that came on my car (and I threw out as as a teenager in favor of a light weight fiberglass performance fan…). This shouldn’t be that complicated, but everything I try to do seems to snowball into confusion these days.
12
Originality / Re: 67 Steel Brake Booster Vacuum Tube Correct Assembly?
« on: October 11, 2018, 03:54:44 PM »
Clarification - sellers = eBay business sellers => can't trust their descriptions!
13
Originality / Re: 67 Steel Brake Booster Vacuum Tube Correct Assembly?
« on: October 11, 2018, 03:11:42 PM »
Wow - THANK YOU VERY MUCH! The part that I was sold (that every part supplier has labeled as common 67-69 is wrong!)... It should be (per this sheet) #3909909... they are selling #3923286 as shown in the 68 manual as common all three years! Unfortunately I already made 1 modification to mine that will prevent me from returning it - but at least this can be an alert to keep others from the same predicament.
14
Originality / 67 Steel Brake Booster Vacuum Tube Correct Assembly?
« on: October 11, 2018, 06:22:04 AM »
As part of my power brake booster upgrade I've purchased the small block pre-bent brake vacuum tube and intake elbow that all of the Camaro parts suppliers list as common 67-69. I also purchased the stand off bracket that supports the hose that attaches under the aft-inboard valve cover bolt. It seems as there is no way these components work together (metal tube does not come anywhere close to the correct length/bends/angle to line up with that bracket hole).
The plug wire support stand off bracket for 67 is directly in the way of any reasonable position of the tube... (68 has a hole in the middle of it and the tube would work perfect with that - but I want to keep the engine dress all 67 factory correct for an L30/M20 car MK code no smog).
What is the correct assembly supposed to be? For me running the rubber hose all the way from the brake booster to an intake fitting is unacceptable - I hope they did not do that in 67 out of the factory. I've found lots of pics online of laughable positioning of that tube, so it is clear that I'm not the first to be unaware of how it came from the factory, but I must be in the minority of those who care beyond it just functioning... I want it as close to replicating factory as I can without a hose laying/ rubbing on the intake/ other parts.
I've been through my copy (electronic) of the Factory AIM Assy Manual (hours pg/ pg because it will not scroll) and the most I can find is it should be on Option "J50" Sheet "A3". My manual for some reason is MISSING THE PAGE Option "J50" Sheet "A3"!!!! How can an electronic copy not have this? Does anyone have it?
The plug wire support stand off bracket for 67 is directly in the way of any reasonable position of the tube... (68 has a hole in the middle of it and the tube would work perfect with that - but I want to keep the engine dress all 67 factory correct for an L30/M20 car MK code no smog).
What is the correct assembly supposed to be? For me running the rubber hose all the way from the brake booster to an intake fitting is unacceptable - I hope they did not do that in 67 out of the factory. I've found lots of pics online of laughable positioning of that tube, so it is clear that I'm not the first to be unaware of how it came from the factory, but I must be in the minority of those who care beyond it just functioning... I want it as close to replicating factory as I can without a hose laying/ rubbing on the intake/ other parts.
I've been through my copy (electronic) of the Factory AIM Assy Manual (hours pg/ pg because it will not scroll) and the most I can find is it should be on Option "J50" Sheet "A3". My manual for some reason is MISSING THE PAGE Option "J50" Sheet "A3"!!!! How can an electronic copy not have this? Does anyone have it?
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