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Topics - doomer

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After a recent rebuild, I find myself chasing down gremlins here and there. One thing is bothering me, and since I am not much of a mechanic at all, I am hoping someone can spot the problem.

1. The weather has gotten cool, and I have an issue with difficult starts. Once started, she idles well while I am waiting for it to warm up.
2. Once running, if I accelerate more than a tiny bit, I have backfiring and sputtering. If I accelerate very slowly, it's fine. This goes away if I drive it for a long while, and lessons as the day warms up, but never goes away completely.
3. One longer cruises, sometimes when I roll into a turn while breaking, it will stall. Sometimes it will stall when coming to a stop even on a straight away.

Frustrating!  :'(

'69 Z/28
DZ302, recent rebuild.
Holly Carb (4053)
New break booster/Master Cylinder
Orig. M21 tranny
Pretty much all stock otherwise


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Originality / 69Z Brake Booster input shaft length???
« on: November 09, 2013, 12:03:32 AM »
I purchased a reproduction booster for my 69Z, and the input shaft (to the brake pedal) seems to be too long. I have yet to get it adjusted and not cause the brakes to drag. The rod makes contact with the pedal itself, preventing further shortening. I checked the rod length with my old booster, and the new one looks about 1" longer.

Any reasons why this would be so? There were different valve rod/input shaft lengths? Should I just cut the rod down? It's close.

Shane

3
Originality / 69Z Brake Booster Oddity
« on: October 30, 2013, 10:53:09 PM »
I removed my nasty old painted brake booster today, and was thinking of having it rebuilt. However, I am not sure it is correct. The top tab has the number 9204 on one side, and 251 on the other. This seems to conflict with information I found here. For one, my 69Z is an 04C car. So the julian looks way off, unless it is a 68 date. Also, the DELCO MORAINE stamp is at the about the 2 or 3 O'clock position and larger letters.

Any ideas on what is going on here? Wrong booster?

-Shane

4
I respect the fact that there are opinions regarding the use of rev limiters. However, there is one on my DZ 302 now, so I am seeking some sage advice on what it should be set to?

I recently had the engine rebuilt (original numbers). I am now at .060 over. I tried very hard to stay original on everything. However, the distributor needs work, so I replaced it with a petronics setup that looks rather stock, but includes the electronic setup and rev limiter.

What would be the ideal set point for the rev limiter?


Shane

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Restoration / Harmonic Balancer - 1969 Z/28
« on: August 01, 2013, 10:40:28 PM »
I'm having my engine rebuilt for my 69Z and need to decide on the harmonic balancer. This is not a concourse car, but I try to keep it as original as my budget allows with particular attention to appearance.

I am looking at these two.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Professional+Products/428/80010/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710581559&catargetid=1784162075&cadevice=c&&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CKDWhsGn3bgCFcOe4Aod6HMAZg

http://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-crankshaft-harmonic-balancer-302ci-1969.html

Obviously one looks more 'original' than the other. Does this make much of a difference? One is much more expensive than the other, and I am not sure just how noticeable this will be. Thoughts?

6
General Discussion / Stahl Step Headers ('69 Z28)
« on: July 26, 2013, 07:48:26 PM »
This question is in response to an earlier statement that Jerry made. He recommended the Stahl #105 (new) step 1-5/8" to 1-3/4" step headers. Is there a reason that these are more desirable for a 1969 Z/28 than the #106 Original in 1-3/4"?

Shane

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Maintenance / 1969 Z/28 DZ 302 overbore to .040? Piston Source?
« on: July 19, 2013, 03:20:46 PM »
My DZ 302 is out and apart for the first time since I got it. The block is already at .030 and needs to go a little further. I'd like very much to go no further than .040 is possible, but my machinist's supplier seems to only have .060 for the 302. This is my first rebuild, and am depending heavily on my mechanics knowledge. He is a great guy, running an old school shop, and wants to help me keep her as true as possible. He asked that I check with you folks on a supplier to see if there are .040 pistons available? I'm looking for recommended manufacturers and item #'s if possible.

I found some via Ricks/Eckler's. http://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-piston-set-302ci-11-1-0-040-over-high-performance-1967-1969.html Just not sure if these are recommended.

Thanks!

8
Originality / Eaton Fan Clutch, but is it right?
« on: July 12, 2013, 07:46:15 PM »
I am having my engine rebuilt and the mechanic said that the oil leaked out of the fan clutch while the fan was sitting out. He said it must be replaced now.  :'(

My car is perhaps 60-80% original. I am trying not to reduce that number any further. So I checked CRG and saw the photos of the original Eaton fan clutchs, comparing them to mine. Someone at some time painted mine black, covering any potential stamps. However, the name "Eaton" is stamped into the metal. It looks just like the CRG images, minus the finish and ink stamps.

Is there another way to know if this is original other than ink stamps? Should there be a stamped in part number? I understand that they can be rebuilt, but the names I saw referenced were posted years ago. I am not sure what the best way to proceed is.



9
Originality / My '69 04C Z/28 has rear antenna and spoiler. What's up?
« on: September 20, 2012, 04:25:42 PM »
As I understand it, the D80 spoiler became standard on all Z28s by the time my 04C was built. I read in the CRG guide the following:

"The rear antenna option, U73, was not available from the factory with either of the AM/FM radios (U69/U79) or the D80 spoiler. However, the rear antenna was often installed by the dealer, even with these other options".

I'd like to be able to determine is this could be the case, or if the antenna was installed later in the life of the car. I do not believe that the passenger side quarter the anntenna is on is original to the car, so that may have something to do with the situation. Any suggestions on how to determine if this is a correct install or an error made sometime during the life of the car?

-D

10
Originality / 1969 Z/28 Original Glass Questions
« on: September 19, 2012, 06:58:42 PM »
Who would have thought a little rock could start so much research?

I took a rock into my windshield recently, and started checking into replacing the glass. Of course, the glass does not appear original. It is 1971 date coded replacement PPG glass. It reads:

        DUPLATE
PPG LAMINATED
     SAFETY FLOAT
    AS1 M25 25 101
           DOT 18

My other glass does not appear to have markings, except one side window, which says:

           SOFT-RAY
SAFETY  L   FLOW-LITE
               O
AS-2           F          TV
      SOLID TEMPERED
          DOT 15 M75


The problem is that the rear side glass is dated TV (AUG 1969). My car is an 04C car! I'm beginning to think that no glass is original. I've not noticed the mix of tinted and clear until now. I thought that non-A/C cars shipped with clear glass. However, isn't tinted glass an option that a Z/28 may have had?

Since clear glass is much more expensive than tinted, should I just begin the process of going all tinted by replacing the windshield with tinted glass?

Thoughts?

D



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