Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Topics - Mike S

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 8
1
General Discussion / Where or what is this picture of?
« on: February 07, 2018, 03:34:52 PM »
 Looking at the body shape, it appears to be a '68 F-body.
Does anyone know where this was or was it a special line to be spraying the body (done usually at Fisher) and the buck-mounted nose (painted on the Chevy side)? The dash top definitely looks masked.

Just curious,
Mike

2
General Discussion / 67 mono leaf spring shape opinion
« on: January 23, 2018, 11:06:02 PM »
 Aside from a final polish and wax, I'm finally done with the 67 L35 convertible restoration.
But, I'm bothered by what I think may be a potential issue with the original factory mono leafs.
In the picture I put an arrow under what is a slight upward bend in the front portion of the left mono spring. This exists on both L & R sides. Looking at the unrestored 67 L35 coupe, those areas are straight across. When I put a flat piece of metal against the convertible spring by the bend you can see a gap. Plus the height in area for 'Dimension J' in AIM 3/A12 measures 1/2" short whereby the coupe is within specs. The car's stance looks fine otherwise.
  I'm thinking of retiring those springs for a set of replacements even though the replacements don't have the end to center taper as viewed from the top. My fear is breakage in that area and losing control of the car. Would any mono spring car owners please take a peek and see if your spring has that upward bend?  I'm curious.

Thanks!
Mike

3
Restoration / Posi tag on rear before or after painting
« on: December 29, 2017, 03:22:25 PM »
 Here's a splitting hairs question....
For posi differentials....was the red triangular 'Use Positraction Diff Lubrication....." tag on the fill plug when the assembly was painted black? Or was it installed afterwards.
I assume if it was on the fill plug prior to painted that it would be masked somehow. And did the original tag have a slit on the end to slip over the plug neck.

Just curious,
Mike

4
Garage Talk / Muscle car assembley line video
« on: November 16, 2017, 07:32:44 PM »
 I came across this on YouTube and thought you may find it interesting.
So many car assembly lines in one video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFYnA1kAntM

Mike

5
Restoration / Battery felt color?
« on: November 13, 2017, 09:51:28 PM »
 Was the factory applied battery felt washer that went under the + terminal a certain color?

Thanks,
Mike

6
Garage Talk / Tire age vs. risk
« on: November 01, 2017, 06:14:31 PM »
 Having completed the restoration of my '67 I thought I was spared the cost of replacing the Coker Wide Ovals that I bought in 1987 and have about 3000 miles on them because they looked perfect. Near the end of the restoration, when the motor was installed and the car was able to drive, I took it up the block a few times as well as the occasional pulling out into the driveway. To my surprise I noticed three of the four tires that looked perfect otherwise and with a lot of good thread, began to developed minor side wall cracks. Shallow at first then getting deeper. I kept the car garaged and always at the proper inflation.
  While debating about spending $800 on getting new tires this year (I was planning on next year) a friend in the car club got into a bad accident with his trailer whereby the tire wall suddenly blew and he lost control when the trailer jackknifed. His knee is messed up pretty bad. The tire on his trailer was 8 years old (per the date code) though the treads looked fine. Out of curiosity I did tire research and learned a lot about age and tires regardless of how good they look. Well...that made up my mind to spend the $800 and get a new set of Coker red lines.
  I figured I would pass this experience along for those who may not know about tire age vs. risk.

Below are links to the NTSB site with some very interesting reading and I have learned a lot about tires.

https://dms.ntsb.gov/pubdms/search/hitlist.cfm?sort=0&order=0&CurrentPage=1&EndRow=15&StartRow=1&docketID=57010&txtSearchT=

https://www.ntsb.gov/news/events/Documents/2014_Tire_Safety_SYM_Panel_4b_Kane.pdf

Mike

7
Restoration / Can you identify this part?
« on: October 25, 2017, 12:36:08 PM »
  I'm finally done assembling my car after a 6 year restoration. As sometimes is the case after assembling, a part is left over. I just can't figure out where this goes. It was in a bag that somehow didn't get labeled.  :-[
Can anyone identify this rubber piece? It's from a 67 convertible w/manual transmission. The odd shape (front labeled image) looks like it was from compression.

Thanks!
Mike

8
Restoration / How did the factory install convertible tops so fast?
« on: August 22, 2017, 10:42:10 PM »
  I'm installing the convertible top on my 67. So far I am 8 hours into it and working in the sun and it's not fully done. I'm not complaining because doing it yourself does certainly give you an in-depth knowledge of what has to be done. The time consumer is fine tuning the setting and stapling for the rear curtain and outer top to the trim sticks to work out wrinkles even when there are marks on the top for stick placements. Anyone who has installed one knows how many bolts it takes to hold it in place. Imagine removing/installing it several times.
  I'm curious.....How did the factory do it in a fast paced assembly process? Was the fabric cut so perfect that no adjusting was necessary when stapling it to the trim sticks? Were the final results a perfectly wrinkle free tight top?

Mike

9
Restoration / Reproduction 2 piece rotor review
« on: May 12, 2017, 01:11:10 PM »
Hello All,

   Because my original 2-piece rotors were well below the min thickness rating that certainly would not pass NY safety inspection (even historic cars have to get at least a safety inspection in NY), I purchased a set of reproduction 2-piece rotors. You can get these at places like Jegs and get free shipping and save close to $60 vs. eBay. The mfg part number is BR69C.
   For a reproduction these are very accurate especially in the hub shape areas. The only differences I see are the bolts that hold the hub to the rotor are metric 10.8 vs. the SAE grade 8, and the shape of the inner vanes. And of course the rim bolts are SAE threaded. The hub opening area where the rim center fits over is perfect and no slop. The thickness of the new rotors is 1" and the diameter is the same. I thought of swapping the hub between the two because of the type of iron(ductile) the original hubs are made from but decided to stay with the new ones even though they are gray iron. The rotor is gray iron which is the same as the original one and gray iron is pretty much what all modern rotors/hubs are made from today. The new rotors come with the inner bearing surfaces installed. The only thing I need to do is duplicate the green stripe on the hub.
  Anyhow, I wanted to share my experience of these with you in case you are in a position whereby you have to buy replacements. I kept the originals in case one day just the rotors become available.

Mike

10
Garage Talk / Video on hot stamping to make parts
« on: May 11, 2017, 10:29:40 PM »
Howdy...I found this very interesting video on how some parts are made. Around the 3:46 minute mark is how a crankshaft is formed followed by what looks like other automotive parts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hL6u5eWRBXM

Mike

11
Garage Talk / Muncie side cover removal in car?
« on: April 20, 2017, 06:16:04 PM »
 Can the side cover on a Muncie 4-speed be removed while still in the car (67 Camaro)? There are no exhaust pipes to interfere but the side clearance looks like it may not be enough. I was thinking I could pull out and tilt it downwards until the forks clear. I've only done it with the transmission on the bench. I know about putting it into 2nd gear before removing the cover.

Thanks,
Mike

12
 I'm curious if the 67 owners who are restoring their cars are reapplying the trim tag white-out if, it was on there originally.
I've been to a coupe of local shows already and have not seen one white tag though one owner said it was there originally but he didn't like the way it stood out so he left it black. He has done an excellent job restoring the car and IMO, should have reapplied the white-out. Probably one of the more accurate restorations I have seen in a while (next to mine  ;)  ).

Mike

13
General Discussion / Repro fuel tank packaging?
« on: March 22, 2017, 09:32:43 PM »
 Anyone recently purchased a repro fuel tank? I'm looking at the Spectrum tanks but was wondering if they come packaged good enough so there are no dents/dings or scratches to not make it show car suitable.

Thanks,
Mike

14
Restoration / Source for 67 Muncie housing parts?
« on: March 06, 2017, 04:03:23 AM »
 Anyone know of a source for 67 Muncie shifter body parts? I'm looking to replace 2 missing ball bearings and spring metal sleeve from the reverse lockout assembly. This is the early design so I want to keep it intact if possible. The spring metal retaining sleeve broke and let 2 balls out somewhere in time and the plastic orange cap is pretty much deteriorated so it didn't retain the balls. No wonder reverse lockout felt so sloppy.

Thanks,
Mike

15
Restoration / 67 RS door limit switch pads
« on: February 28, 2017, 09:55:23 PM »
 Has anyone ever seen these rubber sponge-like pads on a 67 R/S headlight door limit switch? These pads were on the two radiator mounted switches only and are so old they never bounce back when compressed so I replaced these with black rubber insulation but when looking at my 67 04B LOS survivor I don't see any signs of ever being on the switches. The NOR car is a 05B and the glue was rock hard and difficult to get off and the pads were in the car when I bought it in 1980. They look to prevent the door from having any possibility of rattle when open. The original pad (shown off the switch) looks die cut. Maybe a later 67 model run addition?

Thanks,
Mike

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 8