Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Topics - Mike S

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 8
1
Garage Talk / Muscle car assembley line video
« on: November 16, 2017, 07:32:44 PM »
 I came across this on YouTube and thought you may find it interesting.
So many car assembly lines in one video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFYnA1kAntM

Mike

2
Restoration / Battery felt color?
« on: November 13, 2017, 09:51:28 PM »
 Was the factory applied battery felt washer that went under the + terminal a certain color?

Thanks,
Mike

3
Garage Talk / Tire age vs. risk
« on: November 01, 2017, 06:14:31 PM »
 Having completed the restoration of my '67 I thought I was spared the cost of replacing the Coker Wide Ovals that I bought in 1987 and have about 3000 miles on them because they looked perfect. Near the end of the restoration, when the motor was installed and the car was able to drive, I took it up the block a few times as well as the occasional pulling out into the driveway. To my surprise I noticed three of the four tires that looked perfect otherwise and with a lot of good thread, began to developed minor side wall cracks. Shallow at first then getting deeper. I kept the car garaged and always at the proper inflation.
  While debating about spending $800 on getting new tires this year (I was planning on next year) a friend in the car club got into a bad accident with his trailer whereby the tire wall suddenly blew and he lost control when the trailer jackknifed. His knee is messed up pretty bad. The tire on his trailer was 8 years old (per the date code) though the treads looked fine. Out of curiosity I did tire research and learned a lot about age and tires regardless of how good they look. Well...that made up my mind to spend the $800 and get a new set of Coker red lines.
  I figured I would pass this experience along for those who may not know about tire age vs. risk.

Below are links to the NTSB site with some very interesting reading and I have learned a lot about tires.

https://dms.ntsb.gov/pubdms/search/hitlist.cfm?sort=0&order=0&CurrentPage=1&EndRow=15&StartRow=1&docketID=57010&txtSearchT=

https://www.ntsb.gov/news/events/Documents/2014_Tire_Safety_SYM_Panel_4b_Kane.pdf

Mike

4
Restoration / Can you identify this part?
« on: October 25, 2017, 12:36:08 PM »
  I'm finally done assembling my car after a 6 year restoration. As sometimes is the case after assembling, a part is left over. I just can't figure out where this goes. It was in a bag that somehow didn't get labeled.  :-[
Can anyone identify this rubber piece? It's from a 67 convertible w/manual transmission. The odd shape (front labeled image) looks like it was from compression.

Thanks!
Mike

5
Restoration / How did the factory install convertible tops so fast?
« on: August 22, 2017, 10:42:10 PM »
  I'm installing the convertible top on my 67. So far I am 8 hours into it and working in the sun and it's not fully done. I'm not complaining because doing it yourself does certainly give you an in-depth knowledge of what has to be done. The time consumer is fine tuning the setting and stapling for the rear curtain and outer top to the trim sticks to work out wrinkles even when there are marks on the top for stick placements. Anyone who has installed one knows how many bolts it takes to hold it in place. Imagine removing/installing it several times.
  I'm curious.....How did the factory do it in a fast paced assembly process? Was the fabric cut so perfect that no adjusting was necessary when stapling it to the trim sticks? Were the final results a perfectly wrinkle free tight top?

Mike

6
Restoration / Reproduction 2 piece rotor review
« on: May 12, 2017, 01:11:10 PM »
Hello All,

   Because my original 2-piece rotors were well below the min thickness rating that certainly would not pass NY safety inspection (even historic cars have to get at least a safety inspection in NY), I purchased a set of reproduction 2-piece rotors. You can get these at places like Jegs and get free shipping and save close to $60 vs. eBay. The mfg part number is BR69C.
   For a reproduction these are very accurate especially in the hub shape areas. The only differences I see are the bolts that hold the hub to the rotor are metric 10.8 vs. the SAE grade 8, and the shape of the inner vanes. And of course the rim bolts are SAE threaded. The hub opening area where the rim center fits over is perfect and no slop. The thickness of the new rotors is 1" and the diameter is the same. I thought of swapping the hub between the two because of the type of iron(ductile) the original hubs are made from but decided to stay with the new ones even though they are gray iron. The rotor is gray iron which is the same as the original one and gray iron is pretty much what all modern rotors/hubs are made from today. The new rotors come with the inner bearing surfaces installed. The only thing I need to do is duplicate the green stripe on the hub.
  Anyhow, I wanted to share my experience of these with you in case you are in a position whereby you have to buy replacements. I kept the originals in case one day just the rotors become available.

Mike

7
Garage Talk / Video on hot stamping to make parts
« on: May 11, 2017, 10:29:40 PM »
Howdy...I found this very interesting video on how some parts are made. Around the 3:46 minute mark is how a crankshaft is formed followed by what looks like other automotive parts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hL6u5eWRBXM

Mike

8
Garage Talk / Muncie side cover removal in car?
« on: April 20, 2017, 06:16:04 PM »
 Can the side cover on a Muncie 4-speed be removed while still in the car (67 Camaro)? There are no exhaust pipes to interfere but the side clearance looks like it may not be enough. I was thinking I could pull out and tilt it downwards until the forks clear. I've only done it with the transmission on the bench. I know about putting it into 2nd gear before removing the cover.

Thanks,
Mike

9
 I'm curious if the 67 owners who are restoring their cars are reapplying the trim tag white-out if, it was on there originally.
I've been to a coupe of local shows already and have not seen one white tag though one owner said it was there originally but he didn't like the way it stood out so he left it black. He has done an excellent job restoring the car and IMO, should have reapplied the white-out. Probably one of the more accurate restorations I have seen in a while (next to mine  ;)  ).

Mike

10
General Discussion / Repro fuel tank packaging?
« on: March 22, 2017, 09:32:43 PM »
 Anyone recently purchased a repro fuel tank? I'm looking at the Spectrum tanks but was wondering if they come packaged good enough so there are no dents/dings or scratches to not make it show car suitable.

Thanks,
Mike

11
Restoration / Source for 67 Muncie housing parts?
« on: March 06, 2017, 04:03:23 AM »
 Anyone know of a source for 67 Muncie shifter body parts? I'm looking to replace 2 missing ball bearings and spring metal sleeve from the reverse lockout assembly. This is the early design so I want to keep it intact if possible. The spring metal retaining sleeve broke and let 2 balls out somewhere in time and the plastic orange cap is pretty much deteriorated so it didn't retain the balls. No wonder reverse lockout felt so sloppy.

Thanks,
Mike

12
Restoration / 67 RS door limit switch pads
« on: February 28, 2017, 09:55:23 PM »
 Has anyone ever seen these rubber sponge-like pads on a 67 R/S headlight door limit switch? These pads were on the two radiator mounted switches only and are so old they never bounce back when compressed so I replaced these with black rubber insulation but when looking at my 67 04B LOS survivor I don't see any signs of ever being on the switches. The NOR car is a 05B and the glue was rock hard and difficult to get off and the pads were in the car when I bought it in 1980. They look to prevent the door from having any possibility of rattle when open. The original pad (shown off the switch) looks die cut. Maybe a later 67 model run addition?

Thanks,
Mike

13
Restoration / Did the standard interior convertible use a divider?
« on: February 22, 2017, 05:24:29 PM »
 Did the convertible (67 anyways) with a standard interior still use a cardboard type of divider behind the rear seat? I see one on my 67 coupe w/standard interior but I'm not sure if the convertible came with it being it has the additional support panel in the trunk.

Thanks,
Mike

14
 Would one of you '67 owners be so kind as to check your chassis mounted front bumper brackets and let me know if you have the serrated washers on the rear bolt? I installed the front bumper (AMD '67 only front....fits perfect) and I followed the AIM. I noticed this morning I had two serrated washers left over. I looked at the '67 LOS survivor and it uses 4 washers total (2 front and 2 rear of the brackets) but the AIM clearly shows only the front bolts get it. When I refinished the brackets I smoothed the tooth marks but that was almost 2 years ago and honestly I don't remember if the rear holes had marks. I know LOS did things slightly different but I have a feeling this is one of those few AIM mistakes.
  Oh.....the rear J-nut on the bracket (AIM item #1) is now sold by AMK but is listed as a GTO item though using the same GM number.
The shape of the captive nut is slightly rounder compared to an original.

Thank You,
Mike

15
General Discussion / Anyone use reproduction quarter glass chrome?
« on: January 20, 2017, 02:08:20 PM »
 Of all the pieces of chrome I remembered to send out for re-chroming, I forgot the quarter glass chrome. I knew I made a boo-boo when I went to reinstall the glass and took it from storage. In an effort to keep the reassembly on track and not wait another 7 weeks, I was thinking of using reproductions. Has anyone purchased reproductions and if so, what brand and do they have the slight indent on the inside-top that would fit into the roof/convertible seal?

Thank You,
Mike

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 8