Topics

1

Maintenance / I need a bit of help... (Vacuum and PCV)

« on: October 10, 2010, 04:39:35 PM »

I feel a little dumb about asking what I'm about to ask, but I need some help from folks who know their way around an original 327. I've included pictures below to aid in what I'm talking about.

When I bought my 67 (with original 327, aftermarket Edlebrock Performer Intake Manifold and Carburetor) whoever had done the motor work had done some weird stuff to it. The plain jane chrome valve covers they used had a total of four breather caps, and no PCV set up. The thing was slowly blowing oil all over the valve covers, as I suspect the crankcase has too much pressure in it, and fine particles of oil were getting all over. I was constantly having to wipe it down. Also (see pictures below), there was this 'thing' that I would like to assume is some type of original PCV valve, at the back of the engine near the distributor. The vac line coming off of it went to the main vac port on the carb. Well, I decided to figure out what was going on, and dig into this a little bit.

So, I pulled off the main vac line to the 'thing', and discovered that someone had plugged the main vac tube in the carb with a sealant, and in the hose attached to it, had stuffed a tire valve cap and more sealant. Obviously to prevent it from doing what it was suppose to do. I figured this was the source of my problem. So I set out to buy new valve covers, with only two holes (one in each cover for for breather caps, and PCV valve) instead of the four I had. I got them installed, put on a new Edlebrock breather cap in one, and in the other, I hooked up a PCV valve and ran it to a 'T' connector at the main vac port on the carb, and hooked it up. On the other end of the "T" I hooked up that original vac line that was clogged and going to the 'thing' at the back of the engine. (Yes, I cleaned out the tube, and cut off about 2 inches of vac line to get out the sealant and the valve cap). I also took the time to change my spark plugs (the old ones came out, did not look completely 'normal', and appeared to be slightly 'wet', with a mild build up on the 'ground' (side) electrode). I gapped the new ones at .035).

Anyway, the engine is burning oil... slightly. I can see it exit each exhaust pipe... so whatever is causing the oil to burn is happening on both sides of the engine (as I have a dual exhaust system). I have not done a compression test yet, but am about to. (Side note, any idea of what kind of compression I should be seeing in this stock 327 on each cylinder?)

I figured the most likely culprit of this oil situation is the incorrect PCV set up... and before I go crazy, I'd like to know everything I'm dealing with... and for starters, WHAT is this 'thing' in the back of the engine block near the distributor? I don't believe it to be a oil pressure sending unit...

Let me add, I'm a novice when it comes to motors. I can do just about anything else with this car, and understand the fundamentals of engine operation, but am admitting to needing help with the more intimate operations of an engine, and this problem.

Any constructive help/criticism would help me. Thanks for your time everyone...





and I have it set up now...

2

Maintenance / Can you help identify this part? (Braking System)

« on: September 09, 2010, 02:43:21 AM »

This item is below my MASTER CYLINDER. I have four wheel drum (manual) in this 67 base coupe. My brake fluid looks like coffee, and the master cylinder has a nasty gooey substance sitting in the bowls. I'm replacing everything in the brake setup.... and I don't know what this part is. That larger item on the right side middle is some sort of electrical plug and the wire disappears into the firewall through a connector just right of this picture, which I believe is the dash brake light. There's no markings on it, and I want to replace it along with a new master cylinder and all the lines... I don't know if it's some sort of metering valve, or proportioning valve, or pressure regulator. I can't find a part that resembles it at many of the parts dealers, and what I do find that resembles it says it's for disc/disc, or disc/drum, and I need drum/drum.

Two lines from the master cylinder come down to it, then it has two front lines out, one for each side of the car, and then one slightly larger line to the rear...

Can anyone help with this, identify it, and then point me in the direction of a repro, or NOS replacement. Thanks...

3

General Discussion / What happened to THE PADDOCK?

« on: July 23, 2010, 02:03:38 PM »

Anyone know the fate of the parts company 'The Paddock'? I ordered their catalog about three months ago, got it, and have been to their web site. About a month ago, the web site had everything at 'out of stock', and now when you go there (www.paddockparts.com) there is a simple statement saying 'we are closed'. I've called their two numbers, both toll free and the commercial number, and it's disconnected. The toll free just tells you their hours.

They had a nice facility. I suppose a victim of the economy. Does anyone know if one of the other major parts companies snagged up their inventory?

Just curious . Thanks...

JW

4

Originality / Manual to Disc Upgrade... do I affect originality?

« on: July 22, 2010, 06:50:03 PM »

I have a 67, base, with barely ANYTHING on the Trim Tag. Low option car. 327/2spd PG... yada yada and it has 4 wheel manual drum. If I go to a power disc system up front, in lieu of the manual drum system I have now, do I affect the originality if I use stock components? I can't seem to find anywhere this information would be tracked (say the Trim Tag), so once it was done, and done correctly, it wouldn't stand out as modified... would it? This is assuming use of ALL compnents that would be on a stock 67 with a power disc/drum setup.

5

Decoding/Numbers / Need Big HELP with 67 RS/SS numbers

« on: March 29, 2010, 07:45:59 PM »

So I've come across a 1967 RS/SS, and nothing seems to be coming together, and every time I think i get closer to this car being what it says it is, a numbers matching survivor, I get two steps away from it being that... and it keeps sounding like a clone or a bastard car.... here's what I've got.

VIN: 124377N21#### (last part left off until I've determined if I should purchase or not)
NO PROTECT-O-PLATE with this car
TRIM TAG:
11E (nov-5th week)
67-12637 NOR 43397 BODY
797-Z             C-2     PAINT
E  2EMG  3SL
4P   5Y

Axle Code: PC1128O
Transmission (oil Pan): C6E28D
Engine Cating 3892657 with a date of supposidly J257

Now, the VIN seems real high for a car that was built in November of 1966. I've been using information at Camaros.org to decode all of these numbers.... and what I come up with doesn't make sense... and leads me to believe this is a bastard or clone car (some trying to 'fake' a 67 350 RS/SS)

First of all, the car LOOKS like it's supposed to, with striping, brake lights, back up lights, and everything like paint, and options, seem to make the TRIM TAG... but I can't figure out a few things...

The VIN number being a N21####, when from what I can tell, November 1966 built NORWOOD VINs should be much much lower than this.... and according to comaros.org, this VIN was built in May of 1967.
There are no Partial VIN, or Engine stamps on the block pad of the engine because it's supposidly been 'decked' back int he 80's during a rebuild. The only numbers I've been able to get from the engine are the casting of 3892657, and the date of J257. Now, would the date of J257 be October 25th, 1967 (as the actual date), or does it indeed mean the 'model' year of the car, being a 67, and that the J257 means Oct 25th, 1966?

The transmission oil pan starts with C6E28, which tells me May 28th, 1966.... but a pan could be replaced... so I've asked the guy to fetch me the partial VIN number on the bell housing.... to see if it matches up with the VIN of the car. My suspicions are starting to tell me it probably won't match.

Now he told me the axle said PC1128O, but I think he meant 'G' not 'O' at the end... and the PC says it's a 12 bolt built Nov 28th. I've got him getting me the casting date off the pumpkin to see if I can narrow down the year....

Does anyone have any suggestions, or comments? I'd really appreciate the help. I jsut can't tell if this car was built in the fall of 1966, or around May of 67, and in either case, if it's not a 'numbers matching' because of all the other codes, etc... from these parts....

Is there anything else i should be considering? Looking for? Asking?

Thanks for your time everyone....

JW