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Topics - DAVEN1256

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Restoration / Door panel water shield questions ???
« on: October 28, 2017, 06:35:07 PM »
I purchased a set of door and 1/4 window water shields (4 pieces) from Heartbeat City for my '68 which has the deluxe interior. I bought the Mylar ones thinking that they would be better than the paper ones (they cost more.) The manufacturer's name is REM. REM's label shows them to be for a '69. Heartbeat's label says for a '68 or '69.

There are differences between my originals and these repros. I want to go over the differences and see if someone can explain them.....and if these are the best I can expect to find or if there are better ones out there.

The width of the repro door shields (side edge to side edge) are 3/4 inch narrower than the originals. They are not wide enough to cover both of the indented channels on each side of the inner door structure where the bead of caulking (sealant) goes......this is reason enough by itself to return them.

On my original door shields, the top, front corners are shaped differently. The driver's side has a cut out at that corner that the passenger side doesn't. The repros have the cut out on both sides. I don't have a clue why the originals are different side to side. That cut out leaves part of an opening in the door structure uncovered. Seems like water could get through there.

Where the originals have a vinyl pouch that fits around the interior door latch mechanism, the repros have nothing but a one inch diameter perforated circle that you can punch out for the door latch to stick through......I don't understand that because the door latch mechanism is too big to fit through that hole and it won't be water tight.

So just looking for some opinions, explanations, and/or advise.


Restoration / Stripping paint from '68 console gauge cover?
« on: May 23, 2017, 02:41:39 PM »
Any suggestions as to what will strip the paint off of a '68 console gauge cover without hurting the plastic itself.

I repainted mine and am not happy with the results and want to start over

Mine has the factory paint on it and then a couple of coats that I put on it. The black paint came out great. When I tried to do the silver trim, that did not work out so well.

I'd rather start from scratch rather than sanding and piling more paint on it.


Restoration / 68 console shift plate woodgrain panel replacement
« on: May 17, 2017, 02:31:31 AM »
I removed the woodgrain panel from my '68 console shift plate so I could send the shift plate out for re-chroming.

The woodgrain decal itself is bonded to a thin metal backing plate and the backing plate is glued to the shift plate. They both had to come off. I was hoping to get the woodgrain panel off without damaging it so I could put it back on later but didn't fare too well there.

I heated it with a heat gun as much as I dared and tried to gently pry it up. It would come up very slowly but not without distorting and ruining the metal backing plate of the woodgrain. I don't know what kind of glue GM used for that but it is some very tough stuff!

Getting to my question, I see many vendors sell the woodgrain replacement panel that includes the metal backing plate. Just wondering if anyone can recommend who to buy from with regards to quality, good fitment, and woodgrain that is close to the original in color and pattern.


I'm wondering if anyone has found a decent set of inner and outer window felts for a '68 that has both the deluxe interior and the reveal belt moldings on the tops of the doors and quarter window area.

I have bought two sets and looked at another and they have all had issues. The most recent ones I tried were bought two or three years ago and the others were before that. So I don't know what improvements may have been made since them.

1st set: Ordered from Steele Rubber and got a box of Repops brand inside of a Steele shipping box. The problem with these was with the triangular shaped tabs on the outer felts that fit into slots on the reveal moldings and then get bent over. They were not stamped completely through and could not be pried up.

2nd set: Don't remember the brand but I looked at them in person at Eckler's facility in Titusville, FL. The same tabs on the outer felts that I mentioned above did not match up with the slots on my reveal moldings.

3rd set: These are PUI brand and pictured below. The outer felts fit my reveal moldings fine and other them not being as thick as I would have liked them (I wish the whiskers were longer), they are OK.......

The big problem with these is with the inner felts that attach to the door panel and rear seat side panels. The flat stainless steel bead on these that extends over the top of the door panel is not wide enough. Actually, it is the same width as the original GM but is offset and covers an 1/8 inch less of the top of the door panel than the original GM one did. That wouldn't be a big deal except the original stainless steel bead left a permanent indentation in the vinyl running the length of the door panel. The PUI piece doesn't cover it and it stands out like a sore thumb!

The short inner felt that goes on the top of the rear seat side panel for the quarter window has even more issues. It is 5/8 inch longer that the original GM piece. (Geez, how can you screw that up?) And also, where as the original GM piece was made with a gentle curve to exactly fit the curvature of the side panel, the PUI piece was formed as a straight piece and then hit with something to curve it. The whole piece is distorted at the curve and the curvature doesn't match the side panel. The fit is terrible!

So again, I was wondering if anyone has found a manufacturer they are happy with that didn't have the same issues as the ones above.


Restoration / Advice on choosing a radiator
« on: April 29, 2017, 04:14:59 PM »
I am looking for some advice on choosing a radiator.

My car was originally a 327/210 HP car. It came with a two row core radiator. The engine that has been in it all of the time I have owned it is a 350 from a mid 70's Impala. It is stock except for adding a four barrel, headers, and a hotter cam.

That original two row core radiator worked fine under most conditions but in bumper to bumper traffic on a hot day, the engine would start to overheat.

In this restoration, I don't have my exact engine picked yet. I'm not sure if I'm rebuilding my old 350 or getting a 350 crate engine. Either way, I'll be wanting something in the 350 to 400 HP range.......I'm guessing my old factory radiator isn't going to cut it with that.

So now I have to figure out what to get........I want to have a radiator that is stock looking or close to stock looking. And it has to be black!.....I don't want a silver colored radiator......Aluminum is fine as long as it comes painted black or can be painted black.....I don't want anything with plastic tanks.

My first question is.......can a factory two row core radiator be re-cored into something more efficient?....adding a third row to the core, adding more tubes top to bottom, more cooling fins, etc. It would be nice to save the original tanks if possible.

If re-coring to something better is not possible, then of the stock looking replacements I see out there, it looks like it comes down to.....a three row brass and copper......a four row brass and copper......or a two row aluminum.

The advertisements for the two row aluminums say with their two rows of one inch tubes, they have 30% better cooling capacity than a four row brass and copper. There is a DeWitt's aluminum that looks close to stock out there that come in black. That looks good.......I don't want to get more radiator that I need though......if it's even possible to get more that you need!

So just looking for some direction here. Any advice is appreciated.


I called Power Steering Services ( yesterday to ask some questions about them rebuilding the power steering pump and steering box from my '68.

I have read many good reports about this company and it's founder Chip Woyner. The person I talked to yesterday though was Marty and he told me that he bought the business last summer. Chip posted on his Facebook page that the business was sold and he is now retired.

All the comments I have read about predate the change in ownership.

I was wondering if anyone has used the company after the ownership change and can attest the quality is still the same.

Marty seemed very knowledgeable, was very helpful, and was pleasant to talk to.


Restoration / Cardone IROC steering box (pn 276550) ???
« on: February 26, 2017, 02:22:05 AM »
I have a '68 with power steering and have read countless threads about converting to an IROC Z steering box for faster ratio turning and a firmer feel. People rave about these boxes and the improvement it will make to your steering. I have read numerous threads also about using the Cardone remanufactured box made for the IROC Z. Cardone's part number 276550. The ratio of these boxes is supposed to be 12.7:1.

I Googled Cardone and the part number and it showed up in stock at the local Advance Auto Parts store so I picked one up. I checked the ratio of the box to be sure it was 12.7:1 and was surprised that it turned out to be 15.1:1.

I returned it and picked up another one from a different Advance Auto. I checked the ratio on this one checked out to be about 14.4. Neither of them near the advertised 12.7:1.

So I am wondering what gives here?........Do I have the wrong box?.......Is Cardone just throwing any gear ratio in these boxes?......Does anyone else double check their ratio before installing one of these?

Another thing I am annoyed at on these boxes is the sloppy paint job on them. Absolutely awful! I don't expect show quality any means but it looks like these were completely assembled including the plugs in the ports and then the entire unit bathed in black paint. The splines of the input and output shafts are clogged with paint. Both boxes must have been boxed before the paint was dry because the paper lining the box it came in was stuck to the steering box. When you tried to pull it off, the paper ripped and fragments stuck to the steering box. The paint is still soft on them and I could scrape fragments off with my fingernail. Nothing that can't fixed but if I was making them, I would be embarrassed to send something out looking like that.


Restoration / Trying to figure what steering boxes I have ???
« on: February 22, 2017, 01:11:45 AM »
I have a '68 with power steering. I've been trying to make up my mind whether to have a 12.7:1 fast ratio conversion by done to my original power steering box.....or to go with the Cardone IROC box (pn 276550), also with a 12.7:1 ratio. The Cardone 276550 box is the one I always see mentioned as "the one to get" for much better steereing.

Ideally, would have prefer to keep my original box with new innards but that is a whole lot more expensive than doing the Cardone conversion when buying the Cardone box at a local parts store ( no shipping something very heavy each way).

Not having made up my mind, I bought a Cardone box from Advance Auto Parts just to compare to my original box. I was curious as to the ratio of my original box and wanted to be sure the Cardone box was actually the 12.7:1 ratio.

Doing some checking using a homemade degree wheel and a protractor, these are the results I got. They may not be dead nuts but they are close.

My original box: Number of turns lock to lock: 3

One full turn of input shaft = 20.5 degrees of output shaft turn

Input to output shaft ratio: 17.5:1

Total degrees of pitman arm travel lock to lock: 62 degrees

Cardone 276550 box: Number of turns lock to lock: 2 3/4

One full turn of input shaft = 23.5 degrees of output shaft turn

Input to output shaft ratio: 15.1:1

Total degrees of pitman arm travel lock to lock: 65 degrees

I see a lot of conflicting information about what an original '68 power steering box's ratio and number of turns lock to lock should be so I don't what I have here. I'm sure it is the original box.......Any ideas if this is a standard power box or possibly a fast ratio?........For what it is worth, I have the long pitman arm (5.8 inches center to center)

I was surprised that the Cardone box's ratio was so far off. Has anyone else bought one of these and found out they were not the 12.7:1 ratio? Maybe I didn't get the right one.


Restoration / Brake/Fuel line clip installation ???
« on: February 13, 2017, 09:34:27 PM »
Needing some guidance on how to properly seat this style of brake and fuel line clip.

The first question I have is how tight to the frame should they be after being seated? Should they be pressed tight against the frame or have some clearance? ......If they are supposed to be pressed tight against the frame, should you still be able to rotate them?

Second question is what do you use to expand the rivet head so that they hold tight in place?

To experiment, I drilled a hole in a piece of scrap metal that is the same thickness as the frame and made the hole the same diameter as the mounting hole for these clips. I put a used clip in the hole and them hammered a rod (same diameter as the inside diameter of the rivet) with a rounded head into it trying to mushroom the rivet on the backside of the hole.......What you see in the second picture was the best I could do. Not tight at all. Very, very loose!

Any suggestions ???


I am trying to install the three short brake lines that connect the master cylinder, distribution block, and proportioning valve and having problems with two of them.

The brake lines are new pieces from Inline Tube. The master cylinder is a new correct 5460346 casting......and all of the other parts are originals that came down the assembly line with this car (The brake booster and the distribution block, proportioning valve, and their brackets.)

The fitment of the brake line that goes from the rear port of the master cylinder to the rear of the distribution block is close. It needs a little tweaking but I think it will go in OK.

The two brake lines however, coming from the proportioning valve and going to the front port of the master cylinder and the side of the distribution block are not even close. With one end of these two lines fixed in place, the other ends are off by an inch and an inch and a half.....This is my first time installing a new set of these lines so I don't know what to expect. Being off that far seems very excessive for lines that short

So my question is......could it be normal for these lines to be off this far and you just have to bend them to make them fit....or do I just have some lines that are bent wrong?


Restoration / Koni shock replacement bushings, decals ???
« on: January 18, 2017, 09:01:03 PM »
I have an old set of Koni Special D shocks that were bought in the mid 80's.

The fronts are part # 80A-1914

The rears are part # 80-1915

The bottom "eye" bushings are shot and need replacing. The upper two bushings that get sandwiched in the upper shock mount need replacing also.

Does anyone know where I can get these? I have done some research online including Koni's website but haven't come up with anything so far.

Also, does anyone one have source for replacement decals?


Restoration / Brake system brass tube seats - where to buy ???
« on: December 01, 2016, 04:26:35 AM »
Does anyone know where you can buy the brass tube seats found in the ports of your master cylinder, brake calipers, and distribution block?

I am rebuilding my distribution block with a kit from Muscle Car Research and it seems my distribution block has an oddball size seat. The seat you have to pull out in order to get the springs and piston out. The pressed in part of the seat I pulled out of my block is 13/32 inch in diameter. The replacement seat from the kit is 3/8 inch in diameter. It's only 1/32 inch but it makes all the difference in the world as far as the press fit

I called Scott at Muscle Car Research and to this point, he hasn't come across a block that his 3/8 inch replacement hasn't worked in.  He does not stock the size I need. Interestingly enough, I have another distribution block here identical to mine. I bought it off of Ebay to get the switch terminal off of it (I broke mine) and the bore in it is smaller than mine and the 3/8 seat would work in that one.

I have looked online and checked with NAPA and other auto parts stores and turned up nothing. When I show it to the guys at the auto parts stores, they look at it like it's something that came from another planet.

Any suggestions ???


Restoration / Residual Pressure Valve won't fit into repro master cylinder!
« on: November 29, 2016, 03:14:18 AM »
In a previous thread, I was looking for advice on where to buy a new correct looking master cylinder for my '68 with power disc/drum brakes. Correct as in being the same shape as the original casting and having the double bleeder valves.......I did buy the new master cylinder but now there is new wrinkle. I am starting a new thread on it here rather than trying to keep it going at the end of the old thread were it might get missed.

In that thread, the subject of RPV's (Residual Pressure Valves) came up. I had never heard of an RPV valve. This is what I learned about them. The RPV valve is a small rubber valve that sits behind the brass seat of a master cylinder port going to drum brakes. It keeps 10 psi in the line to spread the brake shoes closer brake linings to make contact quicker and prevent nose diving of the car when the brakes are applied.  A car with front and rear drum brakes should have an RPV in both master cylinder ports. A disc/drum set up would only have the RPV in the port going to the rear drums.

Another thing I found out is that reproduction master cylinders are being manufactured without any RPVs. The Chassis Service Manual says they are necessary. JohnZ confirmed this in an older thread also.

When I got my new master cylinder, I found there was no RPV behind the brass seat of the rear drum port. So I ordered a master cylinder rebuild kit for NAPA just to get one RPV Valve out it. When I pulled the brass seat out of the rear port of my new master cylinder to put the RPV in, I realized the port was machined too small in length and diameter to accept the RPV. Also too small in diameter to use the replacement brass seat from the kit......So now I am in a pickle and trying to figure what my next move will be.

So what I am looking to find out is.....has anyone bought a correct shaped master cylinder with the double bleeder valves that came without an RPV valve and successfully installed one? If so, I would like to know where you got your master cylinder.

Restoration / Brake distribution block - brass seat condition ???
« on: November 17, 2016, 05:29:27 PM »
I am rebuilding my brake distribution block with a kit from Muscle Car Research. There are five ports with brass seats in the block. I am replacing the brass seat that had to pulled to get the guts out. A new one comes in the kit. Now I am wondering about the condition of the four remaining original brass seats and if they are OK or also need replacing.....if you can even get replacements.

The replacement seat in the rebuild kit is cone shaped and the side of the cone is smooth from top to bottom. Rather than trying to describe what the remaining original seats look like, the photos tell the story better. Every one seems to be shaped differently. No two look alike. Some have a ridge on the side. The rim on the top of the cone is wider on some than others.....and so on.

I am wondering if this is the way they should look or if they all started as a smooth cone shape and then the brass molded itself over time to the brake line flare?I don't believe the brake lines going into these ports were ever removed since leaving the factory before I took them there hasn't been a lot of repeated loosening and tightening on the seats.  I've owned this car since '78 and never had a leak at the distribution block.

Coincidentally, I have another identical distribution block here and every brass seat looks identical to my originals. That would lead me to believe that this is the way the seats should look but I want to be sure. I don't want to get this all together and looking nice and then have the connections leak.

And if the seats happen to be worn, are replacements available for all of them?


Restoration / Brake distribution block - getting piston out ???
« on: November 09, 2016, 01:14:13 AM »
I am rebuilding my brake distribution block. I got out the brass fitting and the spring out from the one end but am not sure how to get the piston out now. Tapping the block on a hard surface didn't budge it. I put a paper clip in the opposite end and pushed and that didn't budge it either. I know it's not's possible but looking at the end of the piston in the bore, it looks larger than the bore size.

Any advice on this. I don't want to mess something up trying to get it out.


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