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Topics - DAVEN1256

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Restoration / Headliner recomendation and sun visor question
« on: June 30, 2018, 01:42:53 AM »
I need to purchase a new black headliner for my '68.......I am looking for a manufacturer recommendation and have a sun visor question.

Any recommendations as to what manufacturer is making the most faithful reproduction of the original?........About four years ago, I had sample pieces sent to me by Legendary and TMI. The pattern in the piece from Legendary was not even close. The pattern on the TMI piece was close to the original but the finish was very dull like a matte black. The part of my original headliner that was tucked under and never saw the light of day has a nice sheen to it. Of course, a lot could have changed in four years (for better or worse.) I know PUI also makes them but I don't have a sample from them.

I know all of the major parts suppliers have headliners. Most don't mention the manufacturer and some say "made in USA." Prices range from around $75 to $100 and most include covered sail panel boards and sun visor material.......Then only exception was TMI which Summit carries and that was $129. That included the covered sail panels but made no mention of sun visor material.

When sun visors get recovered, do they re-use the old edge trim that is stitched around the edge.....or do upholstery shops have that stuff on hand?  I don't see where anyone sells it. The material on my original visors is in great shape but the stitching on the edge trim is disintegrating and it is coming loose.


Originality / Correct starter brace for '68 small block ???
« on: May 17, 2018, 12:35:52 AM »
Can someone tell me which of the starter braces pictured below is correct for a '68 small block. This is the brace that connects the threaded stud on the front of starter to the side of the engine block.

The illustration in the AIM show what looks like a flat bar with 90 degree twist in it. Like in the second picture.

When you look in the parts catalogs they show either of what you see in pictures 3 and 4. A piece of bent angle iron with either a round hole at each end or one with round hole at one end and an open ended slot at the other end.


Restoration / Rust on clutch pressure plate
« on: May 08, 2018, 02:22:46 AM »
When I took my car apart ten years ago, I put the clutch in a box and stored it away. It is a Hays clutch that I bought in the mid 80's. I live in Florida and my storage area doesn't not have AC.

I took it out recently to look at it and found that the Florida humidity had worked it's magic and covered the friction surface of the pressure plate with rust spots.

I went over it with Scotchbrite and that did very little. When you run you hand over the surface, you can feel that the rust spots are raised a little above the surface of the clean metal.

Is there a fix for this that won't screw up the machined friction surface? I'd hate to have to replace the clutch as it worked fine before the car was taken apart.

Also, what a good method for cleaning up the entire unit and the 30 plus years of grime and dust in there.


Restoration / Worn clutch linkage questions
« on: April 19, 2018, 11:50:11 PM »
The original clutch linkage parts from my '68 small block are showing the wear of 50 years and many, many miles. Both ends of the upper pushrod and the linkage end of the lower adjustable pushrod are worn like you see in the picture below. The picture below is the worst of the three push rod ends. The holes in the clutch pedal and each of the Z bar arms that the push rod ends mate with are all elongated a little bit.

When the pushrods are inserted into their respective holes in the clutch pedal and the Z bar, there is about a 1/16 inch of slop that you can move the pushrod back and forth in the hole.

So my questions are.......

1) When I took this car apart for restoration, there wasn't any problem with the way the clutch operated.  Should I just leave these parts alone and run with them?

2) Replace them with aftermarket parts? I hate swapping aftermarket parts for original GM parts unless it's absolutely necessary. It would be about $80 to replace and although that's not a whole lot, it's another unexpected expense and they start to add up after a while!

3) Is there any way to repair? I don't think there's much you could do with the pushrods. With the clutch pedal and the Z bar, I thought about two things. 1) Weld the holes shut and re-drill them to the right size....or 2) Drill the holes oversized and put a bushing of some sort in there.

I was set to try one of those methods but then realized the Z-bar is hardened steel. I'm not sure if a new hole drilled through the filler weld material would be as tough as the hardened steel it replaced.....and I'm not sure I could even drill through the hardened steel to put a bushing in.

Wondering what the thoughts are on this?


Restoration / Correct positraction lubrication tag ???
« on: April 04, 2018, 03:10:49 PM »
I have a '68 with a 10 bolt positraction rear end. I would like to know what is the correct "use positraction lube only" tag should be used with it.

I have looked in the catalogs and on this site and can't seem to come up with a definitive answer.

What I have seen so far suggests the red triangular tag was only used with 12 bolts rear ends on the fill plug (not sure why they offer them in 3/4 inch and 1 inch versions).....and that 10 bolts used the metal tag attached to one of the cover bolts.

If the metal tag is correct for a 10 bolt, which cover bolt would it go on and how should it be oriented?


Restoration / Parking brake center cable length ???
« on: March 16, 2018, 10:36:04 PM »
Parking brake center cable length ???

I'm am replacing all of the parking brake cables front to back on my '68.

I was looking at different Camaro parts suppliers for replacements. I was leaning towards a kit at Heartbeat City. The only problem was that they advertise the length of their center cable as 89 inches. Every other supplier who gave the length of the center cable listed it as 79 inches. I measured my original center cable and it is 79 inches.

I called Heartbeat city and asked about this. I asked if the 89 inches shown on their website was possibly an error. The guy I talked to was adamant that the 89 inches was correct and that he has actually measured these cables himself.

I would have to believe if their cable was 10 inches longer than the original, you would never be able to tighten it.

It doesn't make sense to me that there would be two different length cables available. Just wondering what anyone else thinks about this.

Also any opinions as to who is supplying good accurate reproductions.


Restoration / Rear drum brake backing plate questions.
« on: March 16, 2018, 10:26:21 PM »
I am going to have my differential gone through and while it's apart, sandblasted and painted. My backing plates are looking a little rough on the inside and I might be replacing them. I'll have a better idea of their condition after sandblasting.


1) In all the photos I have seen of repro backing plates, none seem to have the 1" wide, 180 degree semi-circular plate spot welded to the rear lower half of the backing plate (outlined in red on my photo below.) Is it normal that repro plates do not come with this part? I wonder why they are not there? I wouldn't think the factory would have went through the effort of putting them there if they didn't serve a purpose. Maybe to help keep dirt and water out?

2) Every Camaro parts place that I have looked at repro plates, they cost about $63.00 each. That seems like a lot for what they are. I see you can get Dorman brand plates for '78 and later Camaros at the local auto parts store for $18.00 each. Dorman does not seem to have plates for 1st gen Camaros though. Does anyone know if 1st gen plates are out there more reasonable than $63.00 each?

3) Having almost no experience with rebuilding drum brakes, I have two questions about the areas on the backing plates that the shoes contact......There are three slightly raised areas on each side of the plate that the shoe contacts. (circled in red in the 2nd photo below).......As the shoes move back and forth, is it just metal to metal contact between the shoes and the plates or is something applied there to reduce friction?....These raised areas on my plates are a little rough and crusty right now. If sandblasting or sanding smooths them out, I would assume the plates would be OK to re-use. Any opinions on that?


Restoration / Door panel water shield questions ???
« on: October 28, 2017, 06:35:07 PM »
I purchased a set of door and 1/4 window water shields (4 pieces) from Heartbeat City for my '68 which has the deluxe interior. I bought the Mylar ones thinking that they would be better than the paper ones (they cost more.) The manufacturer's name is REM. REM's label shows them to be for a '69. Heartbeat's label says for a '68 or '69.

There are differences between my originals and these repros. I want to go over the differences and see if someone can explain them.....and if these are the best I can expect to find or if there are better ones out there.

The width of the repro door shields (side edge to side edge) are 3/4 inch narrower than the originals. They are not wide enough to cover both of the indented channels on each side of the inner door structure where the bead of caulking (sealant) goes......this is reason enough by itself to return them.

On my original door shields, the top, front corners are shaped differently. The driver's side has a cut out at that corner that the passenger side doesn't. The repros have the cut out on both sides. I don't have a clue why the originals are different side to side. That cut out leaves part of an opening in the door structure uncovered. Seems like water could get through there.

Where the originals have a vinyl pouch that fits around the interior door latch mechanism, the repros have nothing but a one inch diameter perforated circle that you can punch out for the door latch to stick through......I don't understand that because the door latch mechanism is too big to fit through that hole and it won't be water tight.

So just looking for some opinions, explanations, and/or advise.


Restoration / Stripping paint from '68 console gauge cover?
« on: May 23, 2017, 02:41:39 PM »
Any suggestions as to what will strip the paint off of a '68 console gauge cover without hurting the plastic itself.

I repainted mine and am not happy with the results and want to start over

Mine has the factory paint on it and then a couple of coats that I put on it. The black paint came out great. When I tried to do the silver trim, that did not work out so well.

I'd rather start from scratch rather than sanding and piling more paint on it.


Restoration / 68 console shift plate woodgrain panel replacement
« on: May 17, 2017, 02:31:31 AM »
I removed the woodgrain panel from my '68 console shift plate so I could send the shift plate out for re-chroming.

The woodgrain decal itself is bonded to a thin metal backing plate and the backing plate is glued to the shift plate. They both had to come off. I was hoping to get the woodgrain panel off without damaging it so I could put it back on later but didn't fare too well there.

I heated it with a heat gun as much as I dared and tried to gently pry it up. It would come up very slowly but not without distorting and ruining the metal backing plate of the woodgrain. I don't know what kind of glue GM used for that but it is some very tough stuff!

Getting to my question, I see many vendors sell the woodgrain replacement panel that includes the metal backing plate. Just wondering if anyone can recommend who to buy from with regards to quality, good fitment, and woodgrain that is close to the original in color and pattern.


I'm wondering if anyone has found a decent set of inner and outer window felts for a '68 that has both the deluxe interior and the reveal belt moldings on the tops of the doors and quarter window area.

I have bought two sets and looked at another and they have all had issues. The most recent ones I tried were bought two or three years ago and the others were before that. So I don't know what improvements may have been made since them.

1st set: Ordered from Steele Rubber and got a box of Repops brand inside of a Steele shipping box. The problem with these was with the triangular shaped tabs on the outer felts that fit into slots on the reveal moldings and then get bent over. They were not stamped completely through and could not be pried up.

2nd set: Don't remember the brand but I looked at them in person at Eckler's facility in Titusville, FL. The same tabs on the outer felts that I mentioned above did not match up with the slots on my reveal moldings.

3rd set: These are PUI brand and pictured below. The outer felts fit my reveal moldings fine and other them not being as thick as I would have liked them (I wish the whiskers were longer), they are OK.......

The big problem with these is with the inner felts that attach to the door panel and rear seat side panels. The flat stainless steel bead on these that extends over the top of the door panel is not wide enough. Actually, it is the same width as the original GM but is offset and covers an 1/8 inch less of the top of the door panel than the original GM one did. That wouldn't be a big deal except the original stainless steel bead left a permanent indentation in the vinyl running the length of the door panel. The PUI piece doesn't cover it and it stands out like a sore thumb!

The short inner felt that goes on the top of the rear seat side panel for the quarter window has even more issues. It is 5/8 inch longer that the original GM piece. (Geez, how can you screw that up?) And also, where as the original GM piece was made with a gentle curve to exactly fit the curvature of the side panel, the PUI piece was formed as a straight piece and then hit with something to curve it. The whole piece is distorted at the curve and the curvature doesn't match the side panel. The fit is terrible!

So again, I was wondering if anyone has found a manufacturer they are happy with that didn't have the same issues as the ones above.


Restoration / Advice on choosing a radiator
« on: April 29, 2017, 04:14:59 PM »
I am looking for some advice on choosing a radiator.

My car was originally a 327/210 HP car. It came with a two row core radiator. The engine that has been in it all of the time I have owned it is a 350 from a mid 70's Impala. It is stock except for adding a four barrel, headers, and a hotter cam.

That original two row core radiator worked fine under most conditions but in bumper to bumper traffic on a hot day, the engine would start to overheat.

In this restoration, I don't have my exact engine picked yet. I'm not sure if I'm rebuilding my old 350 or getting a 350 crate engine. Either way, I'll be wanting something in the 350 to 400 HP range.......I'm guessing my old factory radiator isn't going to cut it with that.

So now I have to figure out what to get........I want to have a radiator that is stock looking or close to stock looking. And it has to be black!.....I don't want a silver colored radiator......Aluminum is fine as long as it comes painted black or can be painted black.....I don't want anything with plastic tanks.

My first question is.......can a factory two row core radiator be re-cored into something more efficient?....adding a third row to the core, adding more tubes top to bottom, more cooling fins, etc. It would be nice to save the original tanks if possible.

If re-coring to something better is not possible, then of the stock looking replacements I see out there, it looks like it comes down to.....a three row brass and copper......a four row brass and copper......or a two row aluminum.

The advertisements for the two row aluminums say with their two rows of one inch tubes, they have 30% better cooling capacity than a four row brass and copper. There is a DeWitt's aluminum that looks close to stock out there that come in black. That looks good.......I don't want to get more radiator that I need though......if it's even possible to get more that you need!

So just looking for some direction here. Any advice is appreciated.


I called Power Steering Services ( yesterday to ask some questions about them rebuilding the power steering pump and steering box from my '68.

I have read many good reports about this company and it's founder Chip Woyner. The person I talked to yesterday though was Marty and he told me that he bought the business last summer. Chip posted on his Facebook page that the business was sold and he is now retired.

All the comments I have read about predate the change in ownership.

I was wondering if anyone has used the company after the ownership change and can attest the quality is still the same.

Marty seemed very knowledgeable, was very helpful, and was pleasant to talk to.


Restoration / Cardone IROC steering box (pn 276550) ???
« on: February 26, 2017, 02:22:05 AM »
I have a '68 with power steering and have read countless threads about converting to an IROC Z steering box for faster ratio turning and a firmer feel. People rave about these boxes and the improvement it will make to your steering. I have read numerous threads also about using the Cardone remanufactured box made for the IROC Z. Cardone's part number 276550. The ratio of these boxes is supposed to be 12.7:1.

I Googled Cardone and the part number and it showed up in stock at the local Advance Auto Parts store so I picked one up. I checked the ratio of the box to be sure it was 12.7:1 and was surprised that it turned out to be 15.1:1.

I returned it and picked up another one from a different Advance Auto. I checked the ratio on this one checked out to be about 14.4. Neither of them near the advertised 12.7:1.

So I am wondering what gives here?........Do I have the wrong box?.......Is Cardone just throwing any gear ratio in these boxes?......Does anyone else double check their ratio before installing one of these?

Another thing I am annoyed at on these boxes is the sloppy paint job on them. Absolutely awful! I don't expect show quality any means but it looks like these were completely assembled including the plugs in the ports and then the entire unit bathed in black paint. The splines of the input and output shafts are clogged with paint. Both boxes must have been boxed before the paint was dry because the paper lining the box it came in was stuck to the steering box. When you tried to pull it off, the paper ripped and fragments stuck to the steering box. The paint is still soft on them and I could scrape fragments off with my fingernail. Nothing that can't fixed but if I was making them, I would be embarrassed to send something out looking like that.


Restoration / Trying to figure what steering boxes I have ???
« on: February 22, 2017, 01:11:45 AM »
I have a '68 with power steering. I've been trying to make up my mind whether to have a 12.7:1 fast ratio conversion by done to my original power steering box.....or to go with the Cardone IROC box (pn 276550), also with a 12.7:1 ratio. The Cardone 276550 box is the one I always see mentioned as "the one to get" for much better steereing.

Ideally, would have prefer to keep my original box with new innards but that is a whole lot more expensive than doing the Cardone conversion when buying the Cardone box at a local parts store ( no shipping something very heavy each way).

Not having made up my mind, I bought a Cardone box from Advance Auto Parts just to compare to my original box. I was curious as to the ratio of my original box and wanted to be sure the Cardone box was actually the 12.7:1 ratio.

Doing some checking using a homemade degree wheel and a protractor, these are the results I got. They may not be dead nuts but they are close.

My original box: Number of turns lock to lock: 3

One full turn of input shaft = 20.5 degrees of output shaft turn

Input to output shaft ratio: 17.5:1

Total degrees of pitman arm travel lock to lock: 62 degrees

Cardone 276550 box: Number of turns lock to lock: 2 3/4

One full turn of input shaft = 23.5 degrees of output shaft turn

Input to output shaft ratio: 15.1:1

Total degrees of pitman arm travel lock to lock: 65 degrees

I see a lot of conflicting information about what an original '68 power steering box's ratio and number of turns lock to lock should be so I don't what I have here. I'm sure it is the original box.......Any ideas if this is a standard power box or possibly a fast ratio?........For what it is worth, I have the long pitman arm (5.8 inches center to center)

I was surprised that the Cardone box's ratio was so far off. Has anyone else bought one of these and found out they were not the 12.7:1 ratio? Maybe I didn't get the right one.


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