Topics

1

Maintenance / Oil Level

« on: March 24, 2024, 08:04:57 PM »

I just recently noticed that when I change the oil and filter cartridge in my 1967 Camaro SS, after adding 5 quarts the dipstick reads about a half quart low.  Is this normal or do I perhaps not have the correct dipstick for the L48 350?   The owner's manual states that the engine should take 5 quarts when changing the oil and filter, and 4 quarts when just changing the oil.   

2

Originality / 1967 SS Camaro tires

« on: July 16, 2022, 09:41:10 PM »

I am thinking it is time to replace the tires that were on my '67 SS when I bought it as they are 14 years old.  They are 215/70R/14 with a white stripe, Firestone brand.  From what I read on the 1967 Camaro basic info on this site and other places the tires that came on my car from the factory would have been D/70/14 bias ply red stripe with white stripe optional at no cost.  Does the D mean a 195 width?   I want to replace my tires with a 215/70R/14 tire as I like the way they look, they fit my car fine, and I definitely want a radial.  I think 1969 was the first year Camaros came with a white lettered tire, is that correct?  I'm not about to pay $300 or more per tire to get reproduction red stripe radials.  My car isn't entered for judging anywhere.  I don't particularly like black wall tires on first gen Camaros, so I have to decide on white lettered tires or white stripe tires.  Any suggestions appreciated. 

3

General Discussion / 1967 Camaro with underhood light.

« on: November 24, 2021, 07:37:31 PM »

I had just finished installing a new battery in my '67 Camaro, started it to make sure the new battery worked, shut it off, closed the hood, and in the dark garage with just light coming in from the open garage door could see a reflection on the garage floor and looked thru the front grill and saw the engine compartment lit up.  The underhood light was still on with the hood closed.  Then the thought hit me:  no wonder the old battery had died; the underhood light burns all the time.  I had never noticed this before as I think it is a new situation as I've never had batteries run down before like this and die completely.  I looked all around the underhood area expecting to find a spring loaded plunger type system like is used between the doors and the dome light.  What mechanism is used to turn off the underhood light when the hood is closed?  I could find nothing that to me served this purpose.  Thanks guys for your feedback.   

4

General Discussion / 1969 Camaro Engines

« on: December 08, 2018, 11:58:33 PM »

I have wondered for awhile why Chevrolet discontinued the L30 327 engine after the '68 model run and why they stopped having the 327 2bl as the base V8 sometime during the '69 model year and changed it to the 307 2bl.  A lot of Chevy buffs myself included consider the 327 one of the best small blocks Chevy ever made. 
The other question I have is why did they introduce the LM1 350 for 1969 and then discontinue it during the year changing over to the L65 350? 
Did these changes come about because of Chevrolet knowing what was coming down the road, things like stricter emissions controls, gas mileage regs, and changing to low  lead and eventually no  lead gas?   I'm thinking someone on here might know something about why these changes occurred.  Thanks as always guys. 

5

General Discussion / Loud Banging Noise

« on: September 29, 2018, 06:25:06 PM »

I am trying to decipher what is causing my car to every so often make a loud banging noise like metal hitting on metal.  It only happens when I brake to a stop, not while driving or just hitting the brakes to slow down.  It seems to be coming from the front of the car.  The car is a 1967 RS/SS with a 350, 2 speed Powerglide, and power drum brakes.  It has the original wheels with wheel covers.  I at first thought it was the transmission downshifting extra hard when I came to a stop; I had a transmission shop go thru the tranny.  They adjusted the bands and replaced some gaskets so it no longer leaks fluid; they could find nothing wrong with the tranny, and of course the loud banging did not occur while they had it.  I had a local shop go thru the brakes and they could find nothing wrong with them.  So now I am stumped.  What do you guys think? 

6

General Discussion / First Gen Wheels

« on: September 09, 2016, 08:29:37 PM »

I was looking thru the wheels section in the CRG options listing and was surprised at the number of wheel covers and hub caps available that I've never seen on a first gen Camaro, either in person or in a photo on the net or in a car magazine. 
It is correct then that in 1967 the rally wheel was only available on a Camaro with disc brakes?
Does anyone know why GM started production of the N66 5 spoke steel wheel (I'm guessing only available as an option on a SS) for the 1969 model year and then stopped production so quickly in early Jan., 1969?  Did they not sell enough to offset production costs or find a design flaw in the wheel? 
I've always liked the styling of that wheel.  Chrysler I know offered a very similar wheel in the late '60's-early '70's that they called a chromed steel road wheel. 

7

Maintenance / New To Me Vinyl Top

« on: September 02, 2016, 05:13:37 PM »

I just acquired a 1967 Camaro with a new vinyl top.  I have never had a car before with one.  Is it alright to use regular soap made for washing cars ( I usually use Eagle 1 or Mequiars brand) to wash the top too or is there a special wash intended for vinyl tops?  The Eagle 1 and Mequiars car washes do not say not for use on vinyl tops, but I just want to be safe.  Also for a vinyl protectant is using the same kind as one would use for interior vinyl work fine for the top too or does the vinyl top need a stronger or different type protectant as it gets so much more sun, dirt, ozone exposure than any vinyl interior does?  Thanks guys. 

8

General Discussion / Question About VIN and NCRS Shipping Report

« on: August 26, 2016, 04:59:48 PM »

I am a bit confused and am asking for you experts to chime in.  My car's VIN is 124377N178723 and the date on the Trim Tag is 01D.  Does this VIN correlate with the time frame on the TT?  The NCRS Shipping Report that I received for this VIN shows the GM official production date as 2/21/67.  It seems to me this is way too long a time frame from the TT date to the production date; or is this within normal time frames? 
Finally on the NCRS report the delivery dealer listed is code 0 in zone 28 and the dealer address as simply Cleveland Zone Office.  Can anyone give me any insight into what exactly this means and if an actual dealership name can be determined.  Thank you. 

9

Originality / Black Tail Panel on Big Block Cars

« on: July 24, 2016, 08:25:55 PM »

When the factory painted the tail panel on big block cars black was the tail panel first painted the body color with the black then painted on top of it, or was the tail panel sealed off when the body was painted and the black then applied over primer?  I am looking at a 1967 SS RS with the L35 396 where the black tail panel is faded with traces of the Bolero Red paint showing thru it.  I am trying to decide if it is original paint or not.  In my own mind I am thinking that if it was repainted the black probably was applied over the old black or primer, not the body color red.  Am I thinking incorrectly here?  I haven't seen the car in person yet, only pictures.  Seller doesn't know for sure if it has been repainted or not. 

10

General Discussion / What Are Your Opinions and HELP

« on: July 06, 2016, 09:17:18 PM »

I wanted to run this car by you guys and get your opinions as I know most of you are much more experienced than I.  What do you think? A real SS?  How about the trim tag?  One thing I noticed is that it has RS taillights, with no back-up (white) lights, on a non-RS car.  Is this even legal per Calif. vehicle code?  I like the color combo and am hoping that it is a real SS.
My HELP needed is that I don't know how to put the link to this car in my post.  It is advertised in Hemmings under number 1848363.  It is a 1967 SS Royal Plum with white located in Thousand Oaks, CA.  Thanks for your help.       

11

Maintenance / Running Hot?

« on: July 19, 2014, 11:10:04 PM »

I wanted to post this info to get some helpful feedback and perhaps new ideas, and just to put my mind at ease.  My 1969 Z/28 seems to me anyway to be running hot even though the temp gauge shows well within the standards, reading barely over the first quarter of the gauge when driving and only going to the halfway point after shutting the engine off when I am guessing heat soak comes into play.  Sometimes when I pull away from a stop after driving for a half hour the car bucks, backfires, and then stalls.  I can't get it restarted for about 15 minutes until it cools down.  When I open the hood it is like I can feel a blast of hot air.  Previously the heat riser valve was stuck closed, but I had the flapper taken out.  Wouldn't this mean that no more hot exhaust gases are being circulated up to the intake manifold anymore to warm the carb at start-up?  When starting the car cold it does take longer to warm up now. 
Is it correct that the sensor for the temp gauge is in the engine block?  Is it possible the heads and intake manifold are getting hot for some reason even though the gauge reads fine?  Could there be gunk blocking a coolant passage in the engine, fan clutch not working,  smog pump or AIR system not working properly, etc.? 
About 2 weeks ago I drove it only about 2 miles at no more than 35-40 mph.  When I got to my driveway and turned the engine off and opened the hood I could see heat waves coming up from the passenger side exhaust manifold.  It was a hot day, in the low to mid 90's.  None of my other cars, or truck, put out anywhere near the heat that my '69 Z does.  And yet the temp gauge still reads fine; could the temp gauge be inaccurate?  My own thought is that I am boiling the fuel in the carburetor even with a heat shield, and that is why it wants to stall or kill and is so hard to restart until it cools down.  Am I overreacting or misinterpreting something?  Thanks guys for any and all help and ideas. 

12

General Discussion / Storing Tires

« on: November 20, 2013, 04:59:53 AM »

What is the preferred or best way to store a set of  tires?  I plan on keeping a set of reproduction Goodyear bias ply tires in my cellar where they will not be exposed to any sunlight.  The cellar is also ventilated and not a lot of moisture accumulates even in the winter.  Is it best to store them upright not touching each other like they commonly do in tire stores?  Should they be rotated every so often?  Is it better to store them mounted on wheels than not mounted?  And if so, how is the best way to store the wheel-tire combination?  Stacked, upright, etc.?  Thank you.   

13

Originality / Original Hurst Shifter or Not

« on: October 17, 2013, 05:47:34 PM »

I am trying to determine if the Hurst shifter in my '69 Z/28 is the original one that came from the factory or not.  The handle is riveted to the shifter rather than bolted.  On the shifter it says:  Hurst Competition/Plus, has a number, 128D11C stamped on it, and the following US patent number, 3216274, also stamped on it.  I am thinking that this is not an original shifter that was installed at the factory but would like to know for sure.  Thank you. 

14

Maintenance / Vacuum Advance

« on: September 18, 2012, 05:44:56 PM »

I have a couple of questions regarding the vacuum advance and the hose hook-ups for a 1969 Z/28 with the 30-30 cam.  I had the valve lash settings done using JohnZ's guide from this website.  My cars initial and mechanical advance settings have been set to 11 degrees initial and 36 total all in at 2,800 rpm.  My car currently does not have vacuum advance hooked up, and I want to set it up as JohnZ describes in his article using manifold vacuum. 

First question:  When I set my car up like this the idle went up to around 1,400-1,500 rpm.  Is this normal?  Without the vacuum advance it is between 900-1,000.  Is all I have to do is adjust the idle speed to 900-1,000 with the manifold vacuum hook-up?

Second question:  What do I do with the nipple on the AIR diverter valve?  As far as I know my AIR system is operational.  Can I leave the nipple exposed or should I put a plug over it?  Is their something else I need to do regarding the AIR system?

Thank you.

15

Decoding/Numbers / Carburetor Date Code

« on: July 02, 2012, 06:51:32 PM »

Would a Holley 4053 carb with a date of 913 be too close to have come originally on an 01C Z/28?  Car was built at Van Nuys assembly plant if that would make any difference.  Thank you.