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Topics - adjudimo

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Garage Talk / Restoring black plastic/vinyl trim
« on: April 15, 2018, 12:32:19 AM »
I have tried Meguiar's, Wipe New, Mother's back to black and a few other for black trim. They don't work very well or last very long in my opinion. I don't want to try the heat gun trick. I use 303 on my vinyl roof but I don't know about using it on plastic. So, what tricks do you use to make that black look new again; especially that has some lasting duration over the band aid fixes sold at wally world and other places? I have cleaned with alcohol prior to using the products mentioned above. Thanks.

Maintenance / S & J Engines
« on: October 19, 2015, 01:10:56 PM »
Has any of you had or know of someone who has purchased a engine from S & J Engines located in Spokane, Washington? I have been on their website and read info, viewed videos and they appear to offer quality work, but you know how that is; especially if you live 300 miles from the east coast.. The reason I ask is my current 396/325 seems to have a lifter noise that will not adjust out and I suspect a possible cam lobe problem. It also has two cylinders falling out of specs with the others on a leak down test. I am trying to weigh out the pros vs cons of buying new instead of overhauling. It's not the original engine. A local machine shop gave me a quote of at least $3000+ with pretty much everything machined, decked, bored, honed and polished while keeping a hydraulic flat tappet cam, lifters. Hyd. roller assembly is a lot more money. One of my concerns is that I want the motor to be more suitable for todays stinking gas. I just put a new 700R4 overdrive trans in and I don't have money to just throw at the car. I still want to stay with a big block, but can't seem to be able to find any other engines locally. We use to have real speed shops here, you know, the shops that sell real racing parts and actually built engines and drivetrains; but the last one finally shut down about 6 or 7 years ago. Need to do it right, but as cost effective as possible. Found a 1972 454 with a whopping 210 hp, but probably needs gone through. Any info on S&J or other much appreciated. thanks. If you wish you can also PM me.

I have a terrible 4150 Holley that I've rebuilt the last two years due to leaking all over after sitting over the winter. I have started the car. ended up with the intake covered in fuel. I wish to replace the carb and probably go ahead and change out the cast iron intake that was for the Quad Jet that came factory 396/325 with auto trans. just looking to see if you have any good combo's for the SS hood with big block including possible air filter fitments. I don't want to do a cowl hood. thanks, J.R. I also ask this over at Team Camaro.

Maintenance / Rockchester Quadrajet vendor suggestions
« on: December 19, 2013, 02:23:47 PM »
I am currently in need of a 4MV Quadrajet carb for my '68 396/325hp with auto trans. Any suggestions concerning what vendor's you think offer the best rebuilt/new units? I have heard that there were certain years or casting dates that were better than others. Any advice concerning this? thanks.

Mild Modifications / Intake/Carb recomendations
« on: December 09, 2013, 10:32:46 AM »
Happy Holidays fellow members. I would like your opinions to help me decide which carb and intake I need to purchase. I have a 1967 SS-RS 396/325hp with T400 automatic transmission and 12 bolt with 4:10 ring and pinion.  The motor is a 1968 396 out of a Chevelle. Currently the only mods that I know of to the engine is headers looks like 1 3/4" tubes ( don't know the brand ), Delco hei distributor and 2 1/4" flowmaster exhaust. The engine has the standard cast iron intake and iron heads and the current carb is a 1998 Holley 0-7002-1 model 4175 with 650cfm. I haven't needed to pull the valve covers or oil pan off and I guess that the internals are probably stock components. Sounds like it has a slight  cam when cold and first started, but mellows out when reaching operating temp. I have been having trouble with the engine stalling or quitting while actually driving it. Will not start until it sits for a bit. Then it does the same thing again. Due to other circumstances I haven't had the chance to work on the car and now the weather isn't fit to take a chance on driving it. The car has the SS hood and I know that I have to keep with a set up that will work with the clearance issues of the hood and the air cleaner. Even with the system currently on the engine, it has managed to cut into the hood insulation. I have a open air filter and it measures 3 inches tall, not including the extra 1/2 inch that bows up toward the center. The car is always hard to start and takes a while before it will idle on it's own. I went out to the garage yesterday and poured a little gas into the carb and it started right up. After running a bit I noticed gas leaking from the front of the carb onto the intake manifold, so I figured this is a good time to change things out. I really don't plan on doing anything else to the motor at this time, but eventually hope to get a overdrive transmission and switch out the rear gears to something in the 3:40's 3:50's or 3:73. And before I forget, I rewired the entire car with American Autowire Classic update about two years ago and have new plugs and plug wires. Everything works like it should. I don't think my problem is electrical.  Hope you can jump in with suggestions for the best intake/carb set up. I have been looking at Holley and Elderbrock, but just need the extra input from you guys/gals. Thanks


Maintenance / '67 wiper pump
« on: March 30, 2012, 12:07:02 AM »
I am hoping that someone might have an idea of what I need to do next. The original pump would not spray/squirt. So off it came and I found that the black rubber bellows, (the rubber part that has the spring attached to it inside housing), was torn. I couldn't find a replacement so I bought a new replacement white head pump. The new pump is made slightly different than the original in two areas. First the pump frame mounting holes are 3/4" further apart end to end. It can still be used by using another hole with a longer bolt at the top left side of pump toward the center. SecondThe bellows part is not made the same but the design should work. I installed the new pump and the large black plastic gear will only rotate one turn until it gets stuck and won't move. The metal strap that moves back and forth still moves and tries to catch the gear but it won't budge. If I take the sliding lever and spring off and manually rotate the gear past the stuck area and put back together it works for one more rotation and then sticks in same location again. But the sprayers are working now but won't shut off at all. They actually spray twice more after the wipers park when turned off. I kept searching for parts and found, and they have a rubber bellows that replaces the one I need. Ordered and received the new bellows from and installed on old pump. I also changed out the washer valve kit. Wired back up and still no washer spray. I have primed the hoses and can actually squirt water through the nozzles if I use a shringe to add slight pressure to supply hose. All other components are new. It now seems as though the switch may or may not be working because I can not hear a clicking when I push in to activate the washers. I previously rewired the entire car and all grounds are good including the one at the wiper motor and at the switch. And just if you are wondering the 4 sided gear/cog on the motor does constantly rotate. Any thoughts? ??? Thanks for hearing me out.

Restoration / Glove box liner. AC or non AC needed?
« on: March 06, 2012, 02:16:26 PM »
A simple question for those of you who have installed aftermarket AC units. I have a 67 coupe and wish to install a new glove box liner/insert. Eventually I plan to install Vintage Air or some brand of AC and I want to know if it matters which liner I purchase. I really don't know the difference between the two other than it must be the shape or the size. Just don't want to buy one and find out later that I need the other.  Is one larger than the other? Thanks, J.R.

Maintenance / Bright high beams, Dull low beams on Hal. lights
« on: October 26, 2011, 09:01:08 AM »
Hey folks, I just completely rewired my 67 SS/RS with AAW classic update. I also replaced all RS parts electrically, including breaker, relays, limit switches and new door motors. Updated to a 12SI 94 amp. multi wire alternator so I would also have idiot lights to go along with installed gauges. Replaced all grounds with new ones including star washers everywhere and even added a couple extra grounds under dash. And yes, I took the paint down to metal at all of these locations. Everything electrically works on the car. I replaced my old headlights with Sylvania Xtravision Halogens H6024. My bright lights are bright and white, but my low beam lights are dull and yellowish; like a car with an almost dead battery. Switch back to bright and I have very bright white lights again! Battery is a good (checked) Optima Red Top and car is charging as it should. Any thoughts? Thanks, J.R.

Restoration / 1967 console with automatic shifter
« on: September 02, 2011, 04:51:20 AM »
Can anyone tell me if a 67 Camaro console shifter has a dial indicator that is viewable when you shift through the gears? I have looked in the AIM under D55 ( A4 ) & M35 ( A8 - A9 ) and can't seem to see one listed.  I just rewired the entire car and finally got the console lights working and then realized that there was no dial indicator. I have also looked for one at some of the vendors and haven't seen it listed. If it is an item that I have missing and anyone has a lead to where one can be obtained, I would greatly appreciate it. The Camaro is a SS/RS with 396. Thanks, JR

Maintenance / Upgrading alternator suggestions
« on: July 07, 2011, 09:40:03 AM »
I am currently re-wiring a 1967 Camaro RS/SS big block with American Autowire Classic Update kit. I need to upgrade my charging system and was wanting to know which alternator's you suggest. I plan to keep my warning lights in dash working and also add temp., oil pressure, and volt gauges below dash. My understanding is that I have to stay away from a one wire alternator, so I can run both warning lights and the other gauges. The Camaro has a TH400 trans and I will eventually add aftermarket AC and a higher end stereo. I know there are 10SI and 12SI Delco's out there, but what models do you suggest I should consider for purchase? As always, Thanks, JR

Restoration / 1967 N30 Steering Wheel
« on: July 06, 2011, 12:03:46 PM »
I have a 1967 Camaro with the N30 steering wheel that also has the two extra horn buttons on the upper spokes. This is not a column shif car, it is a floor shift automatic. The horn nor the turn signals work so I decided to repair them.  After removing the center horn cap and rubber ring I found nothing else below them. So I pulled the steering wheel off to check further. There are still wires that still go to the two other horn buttons present. The only thing I found was the turn signal switch setting on top of the metal part that has the bearing in it that sets on the shaft. I am not really sure what it is called. Looks like a hub of sorts. I noticed that in the AIM UPC 12/C2 page 176 it shows parts #1 spring, #2 eyelet, #3 insulator, #6 spring, #7 cam assembly, #16 cover that I just simply do not have. I am not even sure that this is representative of a deluxe wheel setup. I have done several internet searches and found nothing so far. I had already bought a wheel horn parts kit from NPD part number C-2800-50C for the deluxe steering wheel. I know I need to buy a new turn signal switch assembly and a horn contact cancel cam. Like I mentioned earlier, UPC 12 / C2 shows #1 spring, #2 eyelet, #3 insulator, #6 spring, #16 cover. I'm sorta lost at this point. I really don't know what else might be needed to get things right. Any help from you will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading! JR

Restoration / N30 steering wheel
« on: May 12, 2011, 10:20:41 AM »
I have a 67 SS/RS 396 with the N30 steering wheel which has the two horn buttons on the sides. It seems that the wiring and center horn contacts are missing and I am going to start a total rewire after I finish up the brakes. My question is: Does the center horn button and both the side buttons get wired up to the horn, or just one or the other? I have only pulled the center cap off and have not yet removed the chrome center section, nor the steering wheel itself. Thanks for your help.

Both tags listed. Cowl tag also has:

717-Z    F-F
WL  2NG4  3DL

Picture is not real clear. Seller did not list all these numbers I put in, so I put in what it appeared to be;  but maybe someone else can view and confirm.

Restoration / Who do you deal with? 1st.Gen glass replacement
« on: March 16, 2010, 06:21:45 AM »
I have been searching for new correct date coded door glass for my "67 SS/RS Camaro. I have read stories of poor fit and clarity in some brands, but since I haven't experienced this yet, I was hoping other owners would guide me in the right direction. The car is a 03A build date ( March, first week ) and I think that I need glass coded roughly a month or two prior to this. The glass code I have now in the car  is VA and NZ which I believe is Dec. 1966 and Jan. 1967. Anyway, your thoughts, suggestions, advice? Thanks a-LOT!

General Discussion / 1967 Camaro rear antenna
« on: March 16, 2010, 05:39:07 AM »
My '67 SS/RS came with AM radio and (U37 ) rear antenna. I will be changing the unit out to a AM/FM unit with ipod, etc. What should be done to help the FM reception? I have read that the longer length antenna cable causes much static and that is why GM only put AM's in these cars. I like the rear mount personally and don't want to alter the factory panels in any way. The sheet metal is all original to the car with no rust or damage anywhere. Hope you have a thought/opinion on this issue. Thanks

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