Topics

1

Restoration / What is meant by N44 versus Quick ratio

« on: April 04, 2020, 03:29:02 AM »

So I've been looking all over the place and like the Eagles sang "the more I know the less I understand".  From what I've researched, the 1969 Z/28 came standard with "quick ratio" and from what I've learned that meant a longer pitman arm and shorter steering arms, but I don't think that means N44.  I am finally coming down the home stretch of restoring my 1969 Z/28, but years ago I knew I would be rebuilding my manual steering box.  So I went on eBay and I wanted the "quick ratio" worm gear, figuring that what was meant.  So after looking I found a part 5678504, bought it and set it aside. 

So fast forward and its time to rebuild my box, really not that hard, but then I was reading on this site that the quick ratio with the special worm gear is not fun to drive, so I got a "normal" worm gear and rebuilt the box with it.  However I still did not understand what was meant by N44.  So here is what I'm thinking, and please let me know if I'm wrong or since this site has been up for a long time I'm just not seeing it, I've searched this site for the aforementioned part number with no hits that is why I thought I would do some research.  Quick ratio was standard on the Z/28 but if you wanted the special gear, part 5678504 that what was meant by N44, at least that is what I'm thinking and it probably didn't get a "special" manual steering box.  I've attached pictures of the part and the mention of this part in the parts manual, the gearing is courser versus the "standard worm gear", I held them side by side, sorry I didn't think to take a picture at the time. 

There is no mention of N44 in the AIM, N40 means power steering.  In Jerry MacNeish's book, and I know its a small sample size, but the only window sticker mentioning N44 is on page 112 and its not a Z/28 but a COPO with manual steering, no N40 option.  The one highly optioned Z/28 on page 102 has the N40 power steering option, but no mention of "quick ratio" probably because it was standard on the Z meaning it got the longer pitman and shorter steering arms.  So my conclusion, and I'm sure I'm wrong, but here it goes, N44 meant you got a steering box with worm gear 5678504, does that include the longer pitman and shorter steering arms, probably but not sure.  Thoughts are more than welcome!!!

Regards,
Jerry K.

2

General Discussion / Grill emblem placement for a 1969 Z/28 RS vs Standard

« on: June 23, 2014, 01:51:19 PM »

During the Camaro Nationals this year I was talking to Fred from Texas who has a sweet 1969 Z/28 Cortez Silver RS and I asked him why his grill emblem was placed more towards center vs where it would be located on the standard grill.  He indicated that last year he was docked a point because the emblem should be moved to its current location.  I believe he was correct with where he originally had it because in my mind why would they move the emblem more towards center on the RS, there are 5 verticle lines on the standard and the RS grill and it only makes sense that the emblem should remain at the same location regardless of which grill, plus it just doesn't look right being on the more centered location.  Plus I also remembered an article from Muscle Machines about a guy who bought an RS Z/28 new, sold it then got it back years later, but the interesting part about the article is the picture from when he first got the car and it shows that the emblem is in the location of which I believe it should be.  So Fred if you see this post here is a link to the article, I knew I would find it!!  Scrowl through the pictures and let me know what you think.  Food for thought!!  Hope you made it home safe and sound.

http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/2011/08/01/hmn_feature2.html

Regards,
Jerry K.

3

Restoration / Inner heater box color

« on: July 14, 2012, 09:48:58 PM »

Was wondering what color the inner part of the heater box (under dash) should be, the same as the outer 60-70% gloss?  Or is it glossier? Or does it really matter?

Regards,
Jerry K.

4

General Discussion / Finally home!!

« on: January 15, 2012, 07:18:08 AM »

It has been a while, but finally I got it home.  Now I'm a little bit closer to bringing my 69 Z back to life.  I could not get a hold of an enclosed trailer, so I thought about it, then decided I could use a 16' box truck.  Drove it back 450 miles and with only help from the wife we unloaded it without a scratch.  I'll let you guys guess how we did it    (hint, we did not use a fork lift).

Jerry K.

5

General Discussion / Finally some progress

« on: March 10, 2011, 03:00:36 AM »

Thought I would share some photos of my car, finally!!!  The first photo is what I delivered to Mike of Mike's Custom Cars in South Carolina.  The other two photos are what Mike has done to turn my heap back into a car.  Why, I'm sure you're asking, would I go through the trouble of fixing this car?  Because it is the car I have always wanted, a 1969 Z/28 with the original 302 and tranny.  Many have an original Z but the motor and/or tranny are long gone so I thought this was worth the effort and I know I will never get the money out of it that I have invested, but making money was never a consideration     Its a late June car, Cortez Silver no vinly top, flat hood, black standard interior and when finished it will be just as close to how it came from the factory as I can get it with as many NOS parts as I can find and then........ I WILL DRIVE IT!!!!!!!!!!!

Jerry K.

6

1969 - Orphans / 19N628951 ebay 1969 Z28 engine

« on: August 07, 2009, 02:31:03 PM »

VO415DZ
cast date on the block is D 8 9

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300335629947&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

7

General Discussion / Legendary interiors

« on: August 05, 2009, 07:25:45 PM »

Legendary interiors is selling their Camaro stuff now, has anyone seen or bought a set yet?  I have a 69 with standard interior and would like some feedback on the quality.

Thanks,
Jerry K.

8

General Discussion / Info for rebuilding a 1969 Muncie M21

« on: July 16, 2009, 04:49:53 PM »

In the looong wait for my car to be released from body shop prison I've decided to see if I could rebuild my Muncie myself.  Does anyone have any good links showing detailed step by step instructions for both tear down and reassembly.  The tear down is not that tough I pretty much have it all apart except how do you get 2nd and 3rd gear off the main shaft? Press? Beat it with a pole?  :-)  I've seen some poor exploded diagrams and a few sites with some info but missing some details.  Internally everything looks to be in great shape with very little wear if any.  However reverse looks to be a little worn but how can you tell, are they suppose to be a little rounded since they have to be engaged unlike the other gears?  Synchros look sharp.  Any advice for "reskinning the case", I could take it to Jerry M. who does top notch work, but I like doing it myself after all it is a hobby and I'm sure I can do it as long as I have the RIGHT information.  Who has the best parts if I need them?  One other thing, does anyone know what the little disk is in the bottom of the case under the countershaft, it is not in the exploded diagram and does that get replaced?

Thanks in advance,
Jerry K.

9

Restoration / Anyone ever take a trunk lid apart..... I did!!

« on: May 03, 2009, 05:09:33 AM »

I lucked out and found an original 1969 trunk lid for $150 and it was in very good shape and no rust.  However it had a few minor dents on the inside brace by the leading edge.  And when I picked it up you could hear alot of stuff inside moving around.  The car it came off of was said to be a 1967 RS that was wrecked and the deck was stored indoors since the late 70s.  The ad said 67-69 Camaro trunk lid $150 and had one poor picture of the top side.  After learning so much from this board I knew what to look for, so I had the guy email me some pictures, that is when I knew it was a 69 lid.  After getting it home it appeared to have a lot of filler so I figured it had a lot of holes drilled and excess lose filler was what was making all the noise.  I looked it over a while and got the bright idea I could take it apart without grinding the edges like they do on the door panels.  With a few different size screwdrivers and a hammer, I got it apart, and I might add without butchering it up.  What I learned was that when they build the lid they put alot of dabs of black caulk? like stuff inside to fill the gaps between the panels, and through the years this stuff drys out and falls apart and that is what was making all the noise.  Now that it is apart I can tap out the dents on the brace and after inspecting the top side there is two small creases that also can be worked, but they sure did use alot of filler for small creases.  I've attached a few pictures and if anyone would like any more specific shots let me know while I have it apart.  Thought this would be interesting to some and I hope this helps.

Jerry K.

10

Originality / Do the date stamps look original?

« on: April 28, 2008, 01:07:20 AM »

Quick opinion, do the stampings on this 12 bolt posi look original?  And is this date reasonable for a late June car?  Found this at Carlisle Thursday after walking my legs off.  The casting date is E59 and the correct housing number is there, 3894860NF, the seller said it was just rebuilt by Stan's Restoration in the Carolinas so I jumped on it.

11

General Discussion / Anyone had work done at Mike's Custom Cars

« on: April 07, 2008, 02:58:32 AM »

I was wondering if anyone has had any work done by Mike's Custom Cars in South Carolina.  I'm scheduled for June and will be taking my body shell down in early May after being on his waitlist for about a year.  I've visited his shop last August and he could not be any nicer, and his shop is first rate.  I have all the confidence in the world in him but I thought I would just see if anyone else has had any work done by him and what their experience has been.  Below is a link to his Projects site in which my name is already listed.  Any feedback would be appreciated.

http://www.mikescustomcars.com/projects.htm

Thanks,
Jerry K.

12

Maintenance / Rebuilt engine storage

« on: March 25, 2008, 03:23:44 AM »

I have just gotten my 302 back after being freshly rebuilt (THANK CHP).  Only problem is that in the excitement of getting the engine brought back from the dead I did not factor in the fact that the car might lag behind about a year.  So the engine has to sit in my garage that is less then air tight and needless to say not climate controlled.  I was told to get it in the house, which makes the wife not very happy and carrying it in is not an easy process.  I've consulted with Ken Lucas from Lucas Restorations who suggested I have it dynoed and broken in, which is scheduled for this week.  The thought being that this will get everything coated and worn in properly after 3-4 hours of running.  The shop doing the dyno then suggested that once I get it back home, wrap it in a blanket, put it in plastic and once a week or so, since I don't have experience setting solid lifter valves, that I turn it over about a quarter of a turn to releave the tension on the down valves.  Also we plan to break it in with Joe Gibbs oil since the dyno operator said he has seen a few wiped cams lately with lesser oils.  So after this long winded post mainly what I'm interested in any thoughts on storing the engine without harming it in anyway.

Thanks in advance for any feedback,
Jerry K.