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Topics - Franko

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Maintenance / CORRECT 350 DAMPER?
« on: February 04, 2020, 03:15:14 AM »
I am going to have a 1975 350 4 bolt main truck short block rebuilt to install in my 1968 Camaro. It has the 1182 forged steel crankshaft, turned .020/.020. I don’t have the original damper. But, I have an 8” x 1  5/16” wide, damper (3896966) and a 6 3/4” x 1  3/16” wide, damper, pictured below. Would the 8” one be the correct damper? It looks like it is in very good condition, because the rubber isn’t cracked.

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Mild Modifications / Alignment to Weld Spring Perches
« on: January 11, 2019, 02:25:28 AM »
I have a 68 Camaro 10 Bolt Rear End that is out of my car. I cut off the mono leaf spring perches and am going to install multi leaf spring perches. I also found the attached diagrams in Forums.

I set the rear end differential cover surface to 90 degrees using an App on my IPhone. Then I snugged up the U bolts to set the spring perch angle down 6 degrees (or up 6 degrees if the rear end is up side down).

If this seems correct, my question is that the one diagram shows the spring perches angled in slightly yielding 88 degrees instead of 90 degrees. The spring perches I purchased don't move at an angle therefore they end up at 90 degrees.

Does anybody know if this is a problem or doesn't it matter?

Thank you for your help.

3
Restoration / REAR LEAF SPRINGS PAINT
« on: September 27, 2018, 12:48:52 AM »
I'm going to paint my 1968 Camaro's rear leaf springs. Were the rear leaf springs unpainted from the factory? If so, I was thinking of using Cast Blast (cast iron looking paint) because I've had good results with it on a master cylinder and exhaust manifolds on a different car.

4
Mild Modifications / CAMEL HUMP HEADS- INSTALL 2.02/1.60 VALVES?
« on: July 25, 2018, 02:04:37 PM »
I have a set of 1965- 3782461 Camel Hump Heads with 1.94/1.50 valves, that were on my 68 Camaro when I purchased it. The Chevrolet By The Numbers book, discloses that these heads could have either 1.94/1.50 or 2.02/1.60 valves installed. So, it appears that I could have the larger valves installed in these heads because the casting is exactly the same, including the intake and exhaust runners. Can any expert confirm this? Thank you.

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Restoration / 10 BOLT REAR END PAINT
« on: January 21, 2018, 10:03:13 PM »
I have a 1968 Camaro with a 10 Bolt Rear End. I am having it rebuilt with an Eaton Posi and 3.55 gears installed. Were Camaro rear ends originally painted semi-gloss black?

Thank you for your advice.

6
Maintenance / Quadrajet- Secondary-Well Feed Tubes
« on: October 21, 2015, 02:58:54 PM »
Does anybody know the best way to reinstall the Secondary-Well Feed Tubes into the Air Horn? I found the little brass tubes laying in the Float Bowl when I took the carb apart to clean it.

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Maintenance / ALIGNMENT OF PITMAN ARM
« on: May 10, 2014, 01:05:49 PM »
I had the power steering box rebuilt on my 68 Camaro. Now the bottom spoke of the steering wheel is not exactly at 6 oclock. Did I do something wrong in bolting up the pitman arm? Or is this normal and it will be aligned when I get the front end aligned?

Thanks.

8
Maintenance / Removing Harmonic Balancer
« on: May 24, 2013, 12:57:48 AM »
I'm trying to remove the harmonic balance on a 68 Camaro 350 (engine is a 69), which is still in the car. I have a puller and got it to move about 1/4 inch. I can't get it to budge any further. Any ideas? Can I use a torch to heat up something or will something catch on fire?

Thanks for your thoughts.

9
Mild Modifications / Hidden Radio
« on: April 26, 2013, 12:46:53 PM »
Does anybody have any new ideas about hiding a radio or amp under the seat or in the trunk so that I can leave the original radio intact? I really only want to hook up an IPOD or MP3 player and listen to recorded oldies. What about using blue tooth with a unit in the trunk to listen wirelessly? Is there any difference in sound quality? Thanks for any input.

10
Maintenance / Oil Pan Removal
« on: April 16, 2013, 12:29:13 AM »
I've read the previous posts on removing my leaking oil pan on my 1968 Camaro 350. I've read what it says in my Service Manual about it: removing the distributor cap, lower radiator hose, fan, engine mount bolts, starter and the steering rod at idler lever. It says you can jack the engine up under the oil pan with a block of wood and put 2 x 4s under the engine mounts.

Has anybody ever accomplished this in this manner? So the exhaust system, transmission (without removing the cross member), shifter and drive shaft will not be damaged by raising the engine 4 inches without disconnecting these items? And since I have had my power steering box rebuilt and not yet reinstalled it and the pitman arm, I was hoping that I could lower the center link enough to remove the pan.

Also the oil leaks out even if the engine hasn't run in a month in winter. Doesn't that sound like the oil pan instead of the rear main seal, which I think would only leak when the engine is running?

Thanks for your advice.

11
Restoration / Eastwood Metal Shrinking Disk
« on: March 25, 2009, 04:32:32 PM »
Has anybody ever used the Eastwood Metal Shrinking Disk and can you offer any feedback on the results. It says it heats and shrinks the metal. I'm thinking of buying one to shrink some metal on the quarters that was warped by improper sand blasting. I tried to heat shrink one of the quarters with a torch and wet rag and made a mess of it, including oil canning. Thanks.

12
Decoding/Numbers / Decode 69 Z28
« on: October 24, 2008, 06:47:52 PM »
Hello.

I am looking into buying a 69 Z28. The engine castings are A189 and 3956618. Stamped on the front pad is V0425DZ. On the trim tab is 02BX77. It appears to me that this indicates that the car was built in February 1969 and the engine in April 1969, which would me it is not the original engine. There doesn't seem to be any numbers by the oil filter. Can anybody verify my research or have any other thoughts on the originality of this engine. Is it always the case that the VIN is stamped by the oil filter?

Thanks for your help.

13
Mild Modifications / Headers
« on: June 10, 2008, 12:06:26 PM »
I am going to list this question again about which ceramic headers would fit my 1968 Camaro the best because I am hoping that there would be many Camaro owners that have had good results installing headers on their small blocks. Wouldn't the results be the same for 67 - 69 Camaros?

Hooker Super Comp sounds like they must be dimpled at the streering box. I do not know if this is representative or not. Here is my original question:

Can anybody please tell me exactly which headers fit a 1968 Camaro, 350 without any issues. I've seen some headers dented in to fit around the steering box. Another person told me he had get a special small oil filter with his set of headers. I am hoping you folks have some experience with a headers that fit perfectly.

Thank you

14
Mild Modifications / 1968 Camaro Headers
« on: May 09, 2008, 04:05:07 PM »
Can anybody please tell me exactly which headers fit a 1968 Camaro, 350 without any issues. I've seen some headers dented in to fit around the steering box. Another person told me he had get a special oil filter with his set of headers. I use the Fram PH30 oil filter. I am hoping you folks have some experience with a few different types of headers that work perfectly. Also I want to get ceramic ones.

Thank you.

15
Mild Modifications / Hurst Comp Plus Shifter Alignment Problem.
« on: July 10, 2007, 04:13:19 PM »
Hello. I put in a 1965 Muncie 4 speed (Nos. 3851325 (maincase), 38757584 (extension housing) & 3831707 (sidecover)) in my 1968 Camaro. I have also installed the complete console kit and a Hurst Competition Plus (No. 391-4339), with installation kit (No. 373-4529), as recommended by Hurst Tech. The problem is the shifter stick hits the right side and top of the shift plate. And the shift plate slider will make it an even worse fit. The car previously had the holes in place to install the console and it appears to be centered. I have also tried heating and bending the stick, with poor results so far. Does anybody have any recommendations to fix this. Thank you.

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