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Topics - Dave69x33

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1
Maintenance / Tail lights are always on - 1969 Camaro
« on: June 26, 2023, 04:17:27 PM »
ISSUE: I have an unusual electrical issue with my tail lights that only recently happened; they are always on regardless if the headlight switch is on or off.  Once the battery is connected, the tails lights turn on. 

BACKGOUND:  I recently pulled everything off the firewall to repaint it. It had gotten scratches and scuffed over the past 23+ years since I restored the my '69 RS Z28 back in 1995 - 2000.  The firewall along with number of components were refreshed. This job included pulling the wiper motor, steering column, brake booster, separating the firewall fuse panel electrical connector from the engine harness connector and setting both aside.  When the car was put back together, it starts and runs fine. The headlights, all (4) turn signal lights, and side marker lights, and the rear backup lights all work normally.  However, the brake lights and 4-way flashers do not work along with the tails lights being on when the battery is connected as noted earlier. 

It appears there must be an issue with a harness connection, or the ignition switch, the backup light switch, or stop lamp switch on the steering column.  My fuses all appear to be fine.  Thus the tails lights must be getting power from an issue with a switch, wiring, or wiring harness connector without the headlight switch pulled to ON.  All these components has worked fine prior to this work.

One thing I did find odd is one of the rear backup light bulbs was blown. I changed it and it now works fine. I wonder if my battery negative terminal was not fully disconnected when I plugged in the harness connectors to the steering column switches? I have rotary knob style quick disconnect "kill" switch attached to my negative battery terminal.  Over the years there has been occasions when the under hood light would flicker if I did not fully disconnect the kill switch.  I had my battery tender connected to the battery during the time I was doing the work so perhaps that may have shorted a switch? 

I will check the brake light bulbs and test a new 4-way flasher, but this issue really has be baffled!

Your tips and recommendations will be greatly appreciated!

2
I originally posted a few questions on this topic years ago but need to follow-up with a few more questions.

I need to find a source to replace the Y-Connector fitting on my headlight washer hoses shown below.  Thanks to CRG member Edgemontvillage for this photo showing the restoration on this wiper motor and washer pump assembly. BTW...he does outstanding work!  I am going to reverse engineer a CAD file on the Y-Connector and find a source that can rapid prototype it if I cannot find a source that already reproduces it. I believe Corvettes and other Chevrolets from that time period ('69 - '72?) that had headlight washers may also use the same or similar fitting. This connector was used on '69 Camaros that came with the RS or CE1 (non-RS) headlight washer option.,

I need to also fine a source that makes accurate wiper motor foil decals with part number and date code as shown. This is the decal Edgemontvillage posted in his thread. The font and offset typeset is spot on.  I found sources on the internet for the foil decals but they are not as accurate.

Thanks in advance for your tips and recommendations!
Dave

3
Restoration / Door mirror restoration
« on: October 21, 2022, 04:54:09 PM »
This question pertains primarily to a ‘69 Camaro/Corvette style door mirror.  Is there a safe method to separate a mirror body from the pedestal mount base, at the press joint, so that both components can be restored and chromed separately?

Thanks in advance for any tips!

Dave

4
Originality / 1st Gen Body Shims - Shape vs. Part Number
« on: February 11, 2022, 02:43:28 AM »
Every winter I pick an area on my Camaro to restore (again since my car was restored just over 22 years ago), or make technical corrections.  This winter's project to correct the front end sheet metal shims, the RS head light housing shims, plus a few other areas on my '69 RS Z28.  I reviewed several post on CRG where folks have posted pictures of the original shims from their cars.

Question 1: Referring to the following pages in the Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM),  it list the same shim part number 3711834 for the following locations to align the front fender sheet metal:

AIM page 138, UPC Sect. 11/13 A2 fender shims = #3711834 for top and front position on fender attachment to the body.

AIM page 146, UPC Sect. 11-13 B3 fender shims = #3711834 for the lower attachment of fender and fender skirt to body.

For the RS headlight housing: refer to AIM page 459, Sect. Z22 B3 RS headlight housing shims = #3903452

The picture attached I borrowed from bcmiller who posted a picture of an assortment of original shims back in April 2013.  I have a few shims the same as the square corner smaller "horse shoe" shim in his picture.  I wonder where this shim was used?  Is this shim #3711834 called out in the AIM use in various locations?  What about the rounded corner shim that is close in size?

The logical place for the wider (larger shim) would be the lower rear corner fender position shown in the AIM page 459; however, I could be wrong.

Question 2:  For the RS headlight housing, it appears both shims with the rounded handle have been found as originally used for this application.  Perhaps there were two supplier for the same application?

There is a supplier Inline Tube on eBay that advertises he sells the technically correct shims that are phosphate plated. They appear similar to those in bcmiler's picture but not exact.  Does anyone have experience with them?

Can any one confirm which fender shims were used in what location, or are they all commonly used in all different locations?

Thanks!
Dave

5
Restoration / '69 Clutch Rod Boot Seal Installation
« on: January 30, 2022, 12:34:46 AM »
I read somewhere on CRG regarding the clutch rod boot seal that folks have struggled with to keep from stretching and tearing after a short period of time. I have experienced the same issue with two reproduction seals over the past several years. 

I emailed Jerry MacNeish to get his input on the issue, and he encouraged me to purchase an NOS seal.  I just received NOS seal #3903071 from Heartbeat City Camaro this week. The rubber in the NOS seal does feel thicker and perhaps made from a different rubber compound than the reproduction seal.  Last week I restored my clutch push rod again, as it was originally restored in 1995 - 1999 when I restored my '69 Z28.

I also consulted with Larry Christensen for recommendations on the boot installation to prevent it from self-destructing. Larry suggested I lubricate the boot and seal; however, the boot seal fits very snug on the rod and is not designed to be a sliding fit.  I installed the clutch rod to test the full stroke travel at about 2 inches. The boot seal is about 2" long and will fully collapse with each push of the clutch.  I am not sure that the expensive NOS boot seal will hold up, and will stretch and tear over time like the reproduction boots I have used.  The new boot is not designed like the  mid-1970s accordion version that is very flexible and designed to easily collapse. 

I read where someone used a Dremel to open up the ID of the boot seal so it would slide freely along the rod.  I also know the seal needs to grip the rod while the clutch is in the pressed position, so when the clutch pedal is released, the boot seal extends to its natural shape.

Anyone else have success with their boot seal installation, and what did you do to install it?

Thanks!
 

6
Originality / 1969 RS Backup Lamp Holes in Lower Valance - Stamped
« on: January 22, 2022, 09:05:40 PM »
I have been reading in Jerry MacNeish's Appraisal-Certificate of Authenticity reports that he removes the RS backup lamps to inspect that the holes are stamped in the lower valance panel.  He also evaluates the location of the wiring grommet holes thru the truck pan to compare with his extensive research and photo documentation on 1st Gen Camaros.  I have been on JM's schedule since August 2021 to evaluate and certify my '69 RS Z28 Camaro, along with two (2) other '69 Z28s in my area. 

My '69 was assembled in Norwood in 05A.  I purchased my X33 D80 Z28 in 1995 with just over 45K miles, and spent 5 years restoring it (1995 - 2000) back to as original as possible. After reading several JM cert reports recently about how he validates an original RS, I recalled that during my Camaro restoration, that the holes in my lower valance panel where rough cut and not cleanly stamped. I recently removed them and took pictures of the holes as shown below.  I also found it interesting that the shifter hole in my floorboard was also a very rough cut hole.  The hole in the firewall for the RS vacuum hose grommet appeared to be in the correct and original position. 

My RS tail light housings #5961747 and #5961747 (with no hole for the backup light in the center of the housing for non-RS tail light housings) appeared to be original to the car, as well as my rear body "RS" wiring harness #8721693 appeared to be original to the car. The tag shown below was on the original harness and I transferred it to my reproduction replacement harness.  The balance of the RS components: front headlight doors and mechanisms, vacuum actuators, the RS vacuum reserve tank, and the control valve all appeared to be original unrestored parts. Finally, I found what appeared to be a "X3" on the interior rear bulk head, and on the firewall sheet metal (along with 2X, 10, and D8) when I attempted to carefully remove the layers of paint. I understand that "X33" was for the Style Trim and that all Rally Sport Camaros by default included the X33 trim option. There is no way with absolute certainty to confirm if a '69 Camaro was originally an RS car without an original window sticker or build sheet.  I do have the NCRS Shipping Data Report and contacted the original dealership to see if they had any documentation on my Camaro.  Unfortunately, the dealership had a warehouse fire and lost all their old records.  That was a big bummer!

During the restoration, I replaced the driver's side rear quarter panel with an NOS panel and replaced the trunk pan panel due to rust.  It appears the passenger side rear quarter panel had been replaced at some point by a prior owner. There is no noticeable sheet metal date code in the panel as often seen on original rear quarter panels.  I cannot be certain if the lower valance panel was ever replaced by prior ownership, but it looks like the original panel.  I have read the CRG info showing holes that were stamped. 

Questions:
1.)  Is it possible at the Norwood Assembly Plant, that some Fisher bodies were incorrectly released from the body bank targeted to be RS, but had to be corrected "down the line" on either the Fisher Body side, or Chevrolet final assembly side of the operation?

2.)  Does anyone else have an original '69 RS with rough cut out holes for the backup lamps?

Thanks!

 

7
Restoration / Source & Installation of the Rear Vinyl Headliner Molding
« on: January 03, 2022, 06:02:45 PM »
Has anyone had good success with a source (brand) and installation of the current offering of reproduction rear vinyl headliner moldings?  I tried using a reproduction molding from Heartbeat City Camaro a few years ago and did not like the way the molding fit the rounded corners of the window.  The molding was a long straight piece not molded to fit nicely around the window.  The inside corners of the molding would fold outward (open) as I attempted to install it about the rounded window openings. The molding would not lay flat or smooth around the window corners like my original molding shown below.  Would heat help soften the vinyl and allow it to conform with the curves? 

The primary issue with my original rear molding is that it has lost its natural curvature shape along the rear edge, and has opened up along a couple sections of the molding and exposed the pinch weld.

Are any of the reproduction moldings pre-molded with the correct curve?

Thanks in advance for your recommendations!

8
Originality / Rear Axle Code Brake Drum Decals
« on: March 26, 2015, 04:04:02 PM »
Can anyone confirm if rear axle gear ratio decals placed on the face of the brake drums were common, and if the decal was red or black letters on a white background?

If anyone has original decals still intact on their drums, a picture would be great.

Also, was there not a practice of writing the code with a paint pin or grease pin on the bottom side of the differential when the axle was positioned upside down in the rack at the axle fab plant?

Thanks!

9
Originality / Sound bites of stock '69 Z28 exhaust systems
« on: April 25, 2012, 12:56:14 AM »
I copied over some links from a different but related discussion about chambered exhaust. 

Reference to the original discussion: http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=9380.0

Below are two links to two YouTube sound bites of exhaust systems on the 1969 Z28s for reference and help in choosing an exhaust system for your '69 Camaro.  This first link is from CRG member jmcbeth's completely stock '69 Z28 (…and very nicely restored Z28 I should add…) with the Gardner's transverse muffler system including the resonators.

Jmcbeth’s YouTube Link: http://youtu.be/8PMF8311ACA

This is the sound bite of my "relatively" stock '69 Z28 302 but recently upgraded during the motor rebuild with Comp Cam's solid roller cam kit 12-770-8, springs, lifters, push rods, cam button, and #1804-16, 1.5 ratio Ultra Pro Magnum Roller Rocker Arms.  Initial timing set at 12 deg. BTDC, idle speed set between 900 - 950 RPM.  Results: Very responsive and reliable power from 2200 to 6200 RPM.  The sound bite is through the stock exhaust manifolds and exhaust system with the transverse muffler, without resonators.  This solid lifter cam was selected to be relatively close in sound characteristics to the stock 30-30 cam, yet more usable power lower in the RPM range.  You will notice it has a bit more crackle in the sound note.

My YouTube Link: http://youtu.be/bSGjLtTmmls

If some else has Gardner Exhaust’s chambered system on a stock '69 Z28, please post a similar sound bite.  This will provide an interesting side-by-side comparison with jmcbeth's stock transverse muffler system with resonators.

Thanks and enjoy the music!

Dave

10
Restoration / Tachometer calibration source?
« on: March 26, 2012, 04:21:12 PM »
Does anyone have a source(s) that calibrates Camaro 1st Gen (GM in general) tachometers? 

How happy where you with their service and what is the average costs? 

The tack in my ’69 is in good shape cosmetically but I need to verify its calibration.  An initial review thru a web search I found Auto Instruments located in Collinsville, VA, autoinstrunments.com, 276-647-550.

Thanks in advance for your recommendations and feedback!

11
I recently rebuilt the 302 in my 69Z.  During the process, I removed the power steering (PS) pump and hoses, and all the engine pulleys, misc brackets, etc. were stripped and repainted.

I installed the PS pump and connected the hoses, filled the PS pump reservoir and bleed the reservoir by hand rotating the pulley counter clockwise.  The reservoir was topped off to about 2" from the top, or somewhere between the "cold" and "hot" level marks on the cap stick. 

When I fired the engine for the first time for the 20 - 30 minute break-in period, I failed to only run the engine for a few second and check the PS level, as I was concerned about a small fuel line leak, checking the timing, and setting the carb idle to 2000 - 2500 RPM.  When I shut the engine off after the break-in, and checked the PS fluid level, it was very low but the reservoir still had about ˝” - 1" of fluid.  I topped off the fluid level and continued the PS steering system bleeding process with the front tires off the ground and turning the steering wheel back and forth between the locks with the engine running at 1500 RPM.

The engine runs great but I may have damaged the PS pump.  The pump works fine with the tires off the ground but it squeals and intermittently loose power steering if I turn the wheel with the tires on the ground.  I bled the pump and system again but this did not help.  It helps if the motor RPM is increased while turning the steering wheel but the problem still exists.

The PS belt has stretched and the pump bracket is adjusted near the end of the slot.  The belt is snug but not tight, with about ˝” or less up and down movement midway between the pulleys.   The pump worked fine before the engine was pulled for the rebuild. I’ll try a new belt but I am not hopeful this will cure the problem.

Could there still be air in the system?

Is it possible the PS pump rotor or housing was scored during my engine break-in creating a pressure leak path?

Per the maintenance manual, a V-8 Camaro with the variable ratio needs 1350 – 1450 p.s.i. pump pressure to function properly.  I don’t have an in-line pressure gage to check the pump pressure as outlined in the service manual.

If the pump is damaged, can it be rebuilt or should it be replaced?


 

12
Originality / Correct Finish on Clutch Shaft Bracket & Clutch Shaft
« on: June 14, 2011, 01:26:56 AM »
What is the correct finish on the clutch shaft bracket #3932760, Detail #9 shown in the AIM Page 112, Section 7 covering the clutch shaft and push rod?  This is the bracket that attaches to the outside of the frame. 

I stripped the paint from my original bracket (shown in the picture) and it is very pitted from rust indicating that it was originally plain steel, plated or poorly painted.  I show the bracket side-by-side with a reproduction bracket and there are differences. The original bracket is stamped from slightly thicker material, about .216" vs. .195", and the second picture shows that the original bracket is formed with a slight bend down the approximate center of the bracket to lie against the slight curve in the frame.  The repro bracket is flat.

Has anyone purchased a high quality reproduction bracket that matches the original?

Also, if I recall, the finish on the Clutch Shaft, Detail #1 was dark gray phosphate plated, correct?

Thanks. 

 

13
I recently pulled my engine in my 69 Z to fix some oil leaks and freshen up the paint.  This naturally led me to check CRG for the latest on engine detailing.

I have a follow-up "engine overspray" question on the fuel pump mounting plate (ref. the AIM, Sec C6, page 99, covering the fuel pump and pump to carb fuel line installation).  Since the fuel pump plate was installed at the Chevrolet Final Assembly plant, on engine dress-up line, is it safe to assume the fuel pump mounting plate was not painted Chevy Orange?  Was it painted black or left natural steel?

Here are pictures of the plate from my 302.  The inside edge shows signs it was black at one time, but I don't know if this was from a previous owner's work on the engine.



14
Originality / Who sells the correct '69 Z air cleaner decals?
« on: February 01, 2011, 02:19:45 AM »
Can anyone direct me to who sells the correct air cleaner decal for a '69 Z28?  I need to replace my decal and cannot find the correct decal with "PRINTED IN USA" in the lower RH corner.  The pictures attached are from a survivor Z28 with the orignal decal still attached, showing the correct typeface.

Thanks!

15
Originality / Correct color for the rear leaf spring “BM” tags?
« on: January 19, 2011, 11:32:52 PM »
According to Jerry MacNeish’s ’69 Camaro fact book, the rear “BM” tag for the 3934894 leaf springs was silver paper with black lettering.  When I initially restored my ‘69Z, in 1995 – 2000, I purchased silver or light gray tags with the black lettering from Rick’s 1st Gen., when Rick George still owned and operated the store.  I need to replace the tags but now, I can only find yellow tags with black lettering.

Which is technically correct?

Based on JM’s book and my previous purchase of silver/light gray tags, I tend to believe that silver/light gray paper is correct.

Does anyone still have original springs with the BM tags still intact on springs, and provide a picture to confirm the color?

If I recall correctly, the assembly manual indicates a color code on the exterior eyelet surface of the spring.  At one point in time, was the spring color coded then a switch to color coded tag used?

Thanks in advance for your input.

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