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Topics - 67L48

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1
General Discussion / SSRS Clone Restomod for $140K
« on: January 21, 2023, 07:10:24 AM »
https://www.vanguardmotorsales.com/inventory/4688/1967-chevrolet-camaro-restomod

The body and paint on this is just amazing.  The suspension and drivetrain is also very impressive.

It's a shame that they didn't learn a little more about first gen Camaros prior to the build, though.  Things like the too-wide nose stripe, odd horn button, and fender emblems tells me that they just didn't take the time to learn the actual car.

Looks like it was originally 6-cylinder, RS with console in Capri Cream with gold standard interior.

I wouldn't have posted, other than the price tag of $140K.  That's a big number.

2
Originality / Engine Restamp? 1967 350 MU to MV
« on: August 26, 2022, 05:09:30 PM »
Not sure if this falls into the "happened all the time" or "you have a big problem" bucket ... or somewhere in between.

But, in looking more closely at my engine block stamp, the engine was originally stamped as an MU (350/295, Automatic without smog).  Then, the "U" was dotted out with some sort of dimpled grid pattern ... like it was struck with a framer's hammer with waffled pattern.  Then, the "V" was stamped over the top.  MV being the 350/295, Automatic, with K19 Smog.  This car was a CA car -- I have the POP (sold in Hollywood/Los Angeles), the manifolds and block are all equipped with smog, the car came with the smog pump/equipment, etc.

The VIN matches and the date code aligns with the 11A build date of the car.

My thought was that they started to build this engine and then someone quickly realized, "Oh crap, this engine has the stupid smog stuff.  That needs an MV stamp, not an MU stamp.
 Johnson!  What the hell are you thinking?!" 

Any thoughts on this apparent restamp?


3
1967 350

I dented my factory oil pan 25 years ago over a speedbump and it has a tiny pinhole leak in it.  Just a steady little drip that is enough to make a mess, but not enough to ever really lose any significant oil.

With my engine out, it's a great time to finally fix this.  My assumption is that this isn't fixable, so a replacement is required.  My goal is to stay as factory correct as possible.

Should I just grab an OER oil pan, get a GM 465221 oil pan and paint it orange, or is there some other route I should go?

Thanks.

4
Restoration / 1967 Exhaust Manifolds: restore, paint, do nothing
« on: August 20, 2022, 09:47:20 PM »
1967 350 engine, #s matching, all original, and I'm going for the original/factory look.

I just pulled my engine, so now is a good time to refurbish and restore my engine components.  One of the items is the stock exhaust manifolds.  I'll replace the studs (which were incredibly easy to remove -- so surprising), but I was wondering about the manifolds themselves.  Right now, they look like a typical exhaust manifold from virtually any car older than about 3 years.  A bit dirty with the reddish surface rust on them.

Should I
  • Do nothing.  Just get new studs, gaskets, and then reinstall as-is
  • Have them sand-blasted, but do nothing else
  • Have them sand-blasted and then painted/coated to look perpetually silver/natural metal
  • Something else?

5
Originality / Braided steel rope around 350 engine, 1967
« on: August 20, 2022, 12:59:00 PM »
Taking out my engine and found something curious to me. Itís a 1967 350 motor. 11A build date for the car. Engine is numbers matching and Iím 99.99999% positive that itís never been out of the car. Iíve owned it since 1989 and it had only 32,000 orig miles at that time.

Anyway, as we dig into it, we found a braided steel cable fastened with a bolt/nut on the passenger side. It wraps around the exhaust manifold and through the engine mount. I have no idea if this was original and what it is for.

I attached a pic, but it was hard to get anything decently

Any ideas would be helpful ... e.g., was it original, should I put it back when I replace the engine, etc.

The only thing I could think of was one of those safety cables to keep the engine from twisting or bucking ... but wasn't that a big block thing?  I can't imagine putting that kind of restraint on a stock 350 small block engine.

Thanks.

6
Restoration / 1967 Rearview Mirror -- Original Mirror became wobbly
« on: August 12, 2022, 02:30:52 PM »
I have done ZERO to diagnose or try to repair, so this could be an extremely silly proposition and question.

But, a while ago, my rearview mirror suddenly lost its friction.  It's all wobbly and just sags down and won't stay in place anymore -- gravity won the battle.  It's the original chrome-backed factory rear view mirror. 

Can I restore the grip?  Is there a set-screw I can turn, a bushing to replace, or is it just a worn out part now?

Thanks.

7
I have a cracked front windshield.  It's the original glass on the car, so it's sad to see it go.  I'd like to stay as close to factory-correct as possible.  The original markings read:
Shaded
Soft-Ray
SAFETY [shield with LOF diagonally down-right) PLATE
AS1             YA
LAMINATED
M4

I have the A02 tinted windshield option ([1] W on the cowl tag).

So, I have a couple of questions about replacement:

1)  Where should I get new glass?  Best places? Part numbers?  Sources to avoid?

2)  I've never replaced glass before and have no glass-handling tools.  Is this a DIY job or should I be taking it to a shop?

3)  What else should I order?  Seals, gaskets, trim, felt. lubricant, silicone, etc.?

4)  What else am I missing?  What are the the things that fit the "I don't know what I don't know" part of this job?

Thanks.

[BTW, I am familiar with the CRG report on windshield.  So, I don't need the reference or help decoding the YA date code.  Thanks.]

8
Decoding/Numbers / Rare 67 L78 Convertible, White Power Top
« on: August 02, 2022, 02:26:28 PM »
Someone posted this tag and any time I see (1) an L78 and (2) other rare options and (3) signs of tag removal, my spidey senses start tingling.  I'm no expert and, frankly, if I'm faking a tag, I'm always going with RS/SS (which this one is not).  So, I figured I'd post to see if there are any consensus opinions.  (No pics of the car, just the tag).  Tag looks legit to my eye, but the dash after the LOS is curious to me.  My 11A car has no dash and I've seen other 1966 calendar year builds that have no dash ... but I've seen other spring 1967 builds that have the dash (so, perhaps a mid-year change there?).  There is obviously no way to know if it's original to the car based on the info provided here.

L78 396/375, convertible, custom white parchment/black interior, marina blue, white top, power convertible top, console w/ floor mounted 4 speed.


9
Originality / Looking for pics/details of 1967 B93 Door Edge Guards
« on: August 01, 2022, 06:15:46 PM »
My POP indicates my car should have the B93 door edge guards.  It currently doesn't have any and I'm not even sure what they look like.  I did a search here and couldn't find anything -- saw a few discussions about B93, but no descriptive info about them.  Found one pic of a car with them, but it was taken from the front angle and low res, so I couldn't see much.

Any help would be, well, um, helpful.

Thanks.

10
Decoding/Numbers / Identifying an L30 from an LF7 engine? (1967)
« on: July 27, 2022, 02:26:34 PM »
I have read the reports on the L30/M20 combo.  But, that's not what I'm interested in.  How would a person identify an otherwise garden-variety L30 327/275 apart from an LF7 327/210?  For example, what if a car had an M35 Powerglide transmission and a 327 engine.  Do you have to pull casting numbers to identify the type of 327 or is there another way to determine this?  Perhaps valve covers, air cleaner, some obvious marking somewhere, etc.?

In case there are year-to-year variances, I'm most interested in the 1967 model year.

Thanks.

11
All of the various reputable restoration shops I have spoken to are only interested in entire-car restoration -- turn a rusty frame into the car of your dreams sort of project.

I don't need that.  I need a reputable shop that can yank my original 350, rebuild it (and the Rochester QuadraJet), paint it, and put it back in.  I need a mini-restoration that is 80% focused on the engine.  Again, the only shops that come highly recommended just aren't into this kind of restoration and they're 3-4 years out on any sort of project.

I'm in the northeast corner of Iowa and can range from Madison, WI on the east, Minneapolis, MN on the north, and all of Iowa to the south and west (Des Moines ... though I could go as far as Omaha).

I'm out of my depth and don't even know how to find a shop that can do this work and do it right.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

12
1967 SS 350, all original.  Has factory air, but it hasn't blown cold since around 1990.  It's really hot in the summer and I really want to be able to blow some cold air.

I think it's safe to say that R-12 isn't coming back at this point.  I don't want a second mortgage to find some weird source of R-12 to charge my factory air, either.

I know that there are aftermarket systems, such as Vintage Air.  However, I don't want the look of an aftermarket A/C.  I want to maintain the factory components so that my car still looks like a factory air car ... just one that uses R-134a.  I did a quick search here, and I could only find a few threads of people adding A/C to non-A/C cars.

I'm looking for a solution to convert factory air R-12 to an R-134a system.  Is that possible?  Are there kits for that or is every one a custom job?  Anyone who has done this before and could share pros, cons, and learnings?

Thanks.

13
Restoration / Cracked original windshield ... where to get replacement?
« on: September 12, 2016, 09:18:53 PM »
My original windshield just took a rock and cracked.  Crap.  Will claim under insurance with a $250 deductible.  I have a couple of questions:

1)  I'm in Northern Colorado.  Where can I go to get good classic car help?  I've only called 2 shops, but both of them acted like I was speaking a foreign language when I suggested Pilkington, original windshield with date code.  If anyone knows of a good shop, please let me know.  Thanks.

2)  My windshield states:  SHADED .. SOFT-RAY .. SAFETY [LOF] PLATE .. YA [LOF] AS1 .. LAMINATE .. M4 (where the LOF is diagonal).  And it has this info facing the interior.

Looks like all of the repro windshields from Ricks and others with the original etching are for AS2, M55 windshields.  Is this as good as it gets for me?  I'll never have a true AS1/M4 replacement to my original?

Thanks.

14
1967 Camaro, power drum brakes, power steering, powerglide. All stock, so nothing's getting upgraded.

I've had the car since 1989 and can't remember if the brakes have ever been done.  51,000 original miles, so I wouldn't expect that the shoes are bad, but not sure.  I know the wheels haven't been off since the 1990s.

The brakes have been getting steadily softer and I'm hearing squealing when cold.  At this point, I have to brake really hard to stop from highway speeds (55 mph) and I'm not even sure if it's possible to lock up the wheels.  That, to me, suggests shoes are worn.  But, the low mileage makes me think it could be something else.

The brake reservoir on the front of the power assist booster is about 50-75% full.  Tricky part is that this reservoir is angled ... so, as the car sits level, the reservoir tilts back. The rubber/plastic gasket on the lid was convex ... the rubber was poking down into the two reservoir/wells.  Fluid was a very light brown, but is otherwise well over 15 years old.

I figured I'd start by sucking fluid out of the reservoir with a baster and putting new fluid (DOT 3/4).  Figured I'd bleed the brakes.  Never done this on a drum brake.  I assume that this is done via the wheel cylinder?

Anything I'm doing thats egregiously wrong?  Am I missing something obvious?  Should I be looking in other places?

Thanks.

15
67 350 w/ powerglide.

Last summer, the engine was missing on ~3 cylinders and required new plug wires and a carb rebuild.  Everything worked great for the next 500 miles.  Put the car away for the winter.

Got the car out this past weekend.  Fired right up.  Let idle in the driveway for around 15 minutes.  Then went on a short ride.  Drove perfect for around 5 miles.  Stopped and shopped.  Came back out and took off.  Went another 2 miles and then the engine had a complete melt-down.  Felt like half the engine stopped firing.  It wanted to die.  Fortunately, I was going to a gas station at the time.  Didn't quite make it when the engine died.  Coasted into the station.

When I tried to start it, the starter would turn, but it didn't sound or feel like it was cranking the engine.  It was weird.

So, I had it towed to the shop.  That was Sunday afternoon.  Monday, when the shop opened, there apparently was no issue.  Started and ran fine.  They ran it periodically throughout the day and could detect nothing.  Everything was dialed in good.  The carb was clean and free from gunk.  Fuel and air were flowing fine.

I picked it up and drove it home.  Handled like a dream.  Happy to have a $0.00 issue, but not real confident in the car right now.

So, what happened?  I think I had stabilized fuel in the tank, but let's assume that I didn't.  Could some chunk of crap broken free and clogged a line or cylinder for a while ... and then get shaken and pumped through the system during the course of trying to start it and/or being towed across town?

Should I be freaking out ... waiting for it to die again, or should I feel confident that what I experienced was a one-time-only artifact of the first drive of the year after having sat for 5 months?

Thanks.

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