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Topics - TODD

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Maintenance / Tuning a 4053 with AFR
« on: September 08, 2018, 06:23:29 PM »
OK don't want to take over Aron's post
So installed AFR gauges carb baseline is original 4053 restored by Eric at Vintage Musclecar
so jets 72/72 Front 76/76 rear
 PV 4.5 Front 4.5 rear

engine set at 12 degrees BTDC 30 degrees dwell angle
distributor original 1111480 set at (9 degrees) 18 at crank mechanical from 1200 to 2600, advance 7 inches mercury limited to 10 degrees stop.
Valve lash .028 cold stocked stamped "O" units Crower poly-lok's

Car ran ok hears first results after initial AFR install
So gauge installed results were kind of surprising:
1) Idle 900 RPM AFR ~13-14 so looks like I'm pretty close on the secondary opening was rich before adjustment
2) Idle to 2500 RPM 13.5-15 with lean spots on accel (probably needs a more aggressive cam on the accel pump)
3) cruise 2800-3500 RPM 11.2-12.3 jets are 72-76 so probably need to go to 70’s?

What elevation and DA conditions are you working in? 2497 Quartz Hill Ca it was 4408 on the density calculator this morn.

Restoration / Door Glass Adjustment
« on: May 27, 2018, 05:39:14 PM »
Reworked all the door glass mechanisms, replaced rollers and brackets on the doors and window mechanism rollers in the back. During adjustments the fuzzies just wouldn’t make proper contact. Replaced with NOS pieces and they are 100%. Now with all glass adjusted correctly with good airtight fit (no wind noise) I still fail the final water leak test at the rear door to quarter to roof rail weatherstrip, it weeps and runs down the glass inside. Now to the questions adjust rear door glass up? It fits well now and the rear glass corners are in towards car as far as I dare go as window wouldn’t roll up with door shut. Door glass up will make the door difficult to shut needs a firm push if I go further up. So adjust them up and let it sit in the sun for a few days?
Or new latex roof rail weatherstrip? NOS is probably impossible

Maintenance / 69 Z/28 engine stands
« on: April 11, 2006, 02:55:40 AM »
While restoring the 69 Z I replaced the motor mounts with units from Year One. After sending back the 69 Z mounts and calling the tech line/service
I was told some of the early cars had 68 Z/BB mounts, maybe until newer version release or supply was used up? Can any of you early 69 guys confirm? My 69 is a 68 built 10E car. Anyhow I have looked at the mounts a few times and
wonder why 68 style? The 68's are wider tower with engine mount containing spacers welded on right? I seem to remember the 69 style motor mount being too narrow to fit the wider 68 style tower? Also I'm pretty darn sure these towers are original, they looked like the original hardware had not been removed when I pulled the engine out.
 Next question; Do the modern style engine mounts I purchased contain a built in rubber isolater stop-lift fastening device?
By this I'm talking about the engine lift brackets I see on e-pay all the time. Seems in the first gen cars the mounts would break loose
and the accelerator would fully engage with disasterous results.
I'm pretty sure some of the newer design non-original mounts I've seen have a metal tab retainer built in them to provide break-away engine retainment.
Do the newer original style mounts incorporate a fastening device engineered through them to prevent this problem right?
Why is everyone insistant on providing stop-lift brackets on a restored car? Is it for motor mount retainment on original restored cars?
I'm a little worried if mine might not come loose at some point. If they aren't for retainment then why?
If these parts would be correct then why shouldn't every TSB part be installed for us anal-retentive correct guys?
Was this a major recall or just a TSB.


Originality / Early 69 Z/28 wheels.
« on: October 19, 2005, 03:47:08 AM »
Early 69 Z/28's had AD rallye rims. This 69 Z/28 wheel looks to be latest produced in 68. K188 Dec 18 68?
see link

CRG have a record of when AD rims phased out and YH rallyes started?
True difference in rim AD to YH  clearance for the JL-8 disc option?


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