Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - Edgemontvillage

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5
General Discussion / Legends Judging - 69 RS Optioned Camaro
« on: October 17, 2021, 03:17:24 PM »
I've got a couple of questions regarding Legends judging criteria for the Rally Sport option on a 69 Camaro. There are some inconsistencies I've seen on original, Norwood OH built RS equipped cars and I'd like to understand how these items are judged. If you've been through the judging process with a 69 RS optioned car please post here or send me a PM. Thanks. 

Restoration / Radiator Overflow Hose - Length
« on: August 26, 2021, 04:54:50 PM »
Looking for the correct length of the thin wall radiator overflow hose. The AIM provides no details and I assume the hose length was the same for all Gen 1's however if not I'm looking for a 69 Z. Thanks.

Restoration / 1969 Camaro Temp Sending Unit - U17 Wire Terminal
« on: July 26, 2021, 09:17:29 PM »
I'm in the process of installing a new wiring harness kit from American Auto Wire (AAW) on my 1969 Camaro RS Z/28 project. Overall the engine harness from AAW is quite accurate however I have run into a few deviations from original that need correction including the terminal for the engine temperature sending unit with U17 console gauge option. On the 69 Z with console gauges the terminal was a bare brass friction fit slip-on type with no (plastic) connector however the AAW kit includes a ring style terminal that would require a nut to secure the terminal to the sending unit. AAW doesn't supply the correct terminal (although they did supply a console gauge harness) so I've been trying to locate one and the common 3.5mm bullet terminal is too small to fit over the sender post. Anyone have a good source for these connectors?


Originality / Dum Dum - Lower Quarter Panel to Tail Pan Corners
« on: June 08, 2021, 03:06:37 PM »
Looking for feedback on the sealer (dum dum) used on 69's (and possibly other Gen 1's) where the quarter panels meet the bottom corners of the tail pan. On some original paint cars I've seen, the sealer was left unpainted, on others it was clearly painted. The lower vertical intersection of these panels is often poorly finished and the gap between the lower tail pan and quarter panel was given little attention by Fisher Body. I assume the sealer was used to prevent water and road debris accumulating in the panel gap resulting in rust. I've only seen the sealer used on Norwood built cars and examples suggest it's use extended to most (all?) of the 69 production calendar. Any other examples? LA cars? Here are some photos:

Skip L's 9C 69 Norwood X77 (painted sealer)

Benny P's 69 Norwood L78 (unpainted sealer)

69 Norwood L78 (possibly painted)

Vintage photo reportedly taken in the early spring of 69 (Norwood) (unpainted)


Originality / 68/69 Trunk Lid VS Header Panel Emblems
« on: April 19, 2021, 02:53:49 PM »
The 1968 and 1969 AIMs call out PN 3916654 for the Camaro By Chevrolet header panel emblem however Fisher body used a similar emblem on the trunk lid during body assembly under PN 7752901. Its been said that the difference in the emblems is in the PNs only as one is for Fisher and the other for Chevrolet's use. The emblems are very similar in many ways including the width, height, style, paint detail and pin locations. There is however a clear difference in the "By Chevrolet" plate side profiles. Fisher installed 7752901 on the trunk lid which has a different slope than the header panel regardless of the D80 option required trunk lid emblem placement. Seemingly to accommodate the difference in the slope of the trunk lid vs header panel, the side profile (of the "By Chevrolet" plate) was angled on the 3916654 version of emblem. Once you compare an original trunk and header emblem the side profile difference is clear. This is a judged item in Vintage Certification however not Bowtie or Legends judging to my knowledge.

NOS versions of the Camaro by Chevrolet emblems, on the top PN 3916654 Header Panel Emblem and on the bottom PN 7752901 Trunk Lid Emblem. Viewed from above and underside they are the same.

On the Left: 7752901 Trunk Lid Emblem, On the Right: 3916654 Header Panel Emblem, Note the angled (side) casting of the "By Chevrolet" plate on 3916654.

Brett M's original 1969 RS during 2019 MCACN Vintage Certification

Header Panel Emblem with PN 3916654 and angled (side) casting.

Trunk Lid Emblem PN 7752901 non-angled (side) casting.

Restoration / 4053 Carb Ink Stamp Font?
« on: April 09, 2021, 08:28:11 PM »
I'm trying to identify the font used for the carburetor ink stamps below. The photos are of an NOS 4053 carb I own dated 924 (4th week of Feb 1969) and I'd like to get ink stamps made so I can duplicate them for my project Z. For reference, the letters are 8mm or 5/16" high. Anyone recognize the font?

Originality / 1114356 Starter Solenoid
« on: March 29, 2021, 04:46:15 PM »
I've been searching for details of the original fasteners and plating used for the cable/wiring connections on the 1114365 ("356) starter solenoid (used on the 1969 Z/28 and other applications). NOS versions of the 356 vary (copper vs zinc plating, slotted screws vs bolts etc). The Bakelite cap used in 1969 was black with the embossed Delco Remy logo in the center. Below are photos of the restored solenoid from Chick's (68camaroz28) 1968 Z/28 and an NOS service replacement. If anyone has an original (1969) 356 solenoid please post photos.

Chick's 1968 Z/28 356 solenoid.

NOS Service Replacement 356 solenoid.

Restoration / Positraction Caution Label
« on: March 18, 2021, 12:10:36 AM »
The positraction caution label was originally printed on non-adhesive backed, non-coated paper and applied to the underside of the trunk lid with glue. From what I've seen on Gen 1s where only glue residue remains where the label once was (often the case), the glue appears to have been applied in a cross or X pattern and rarely provided edge-to-edge coverage or full label adhesion. Its been suggested the glue was applied in multiple dabs however that's unlikely in high-volume production lines like Fisher's where economy of motion and effort is the standard. Based on the glue pattern in the photo below from my project, its also unlikely that a roller applicator was used but possibly a large sponge or mop-head style applicator or? The glue, I expect, would have been non water-based (due to recurring condensation on the underside of the trunk lid) and shows a semi-transparent off-white/yellow color (how much of this is age related?). I'd like to duplicate this glue and application technique for my project and would appreciate input on currently available glue products and applicators that would produce similar results to the original.     

Positraction Caution Label

Glue Residue from the Positraction Caution label on my 69 2B Norwood Z.

Restoration / Smog Pump Restoration
« on: March 07, 2021, 05:19:46 AM »
The smog / A.I.R. assembly was missing when I purchased my 1969 RS/Z project with the exception of the carrier bracket so I needed to locate suitable original parts. I sourced this rebuilt January 1969 dated smog pump some time ago however its functional and will need to be de-veined. The quality of the restoration is lacking, at least to my liking, so I searched for rebuild instructions on-line and couldn't find much. I thought I would create a thread on smog pump rebuilding for future CRG reference. There are threads on de-veining the internal pump-fan assembly however in order to do a comprehensive restoration the entire smog pump needs to be disassembled, the case restored and new bearings installed.

Dated 017 9 or January 17, 1969


The backing plate is secured by 4 bolts and once they are removed the plate can be carefully separated from the case. As the backing plate is cast iron and  uses 2 locating pins it requires some effort to remove, care is needed to separate it from the aluminum case to avoid damage.

With the backing plate removed, inside the case is a steel drum with plastic or Bakelite fan blades that are loaded on, and rotate around, a center shaft attached to the backing plate as shown. The blades need to be removed and are easily broken up with a few blows from a chisel and hammer. This is the common de-veining process. The broken blades can then be shaken out of the case. At the end of each plastic fan blade is a (sharp) metal scraper blade that also needs to be removed. Have a close look inside the drum for any remaining plastic bits and pieces.

Case-back removed

Internal drum with fan blades


To remove the plastic cooling fan from the hub I used a plastic trim tool to access the back of the fan through a slot located in the top of the aluminum case. I rotated the fan 90 degrees tapped lightly and repeated until it was removed undamaged.

Plastic cooling fan

Slot in the top of the case where the trim tool can access the back of the fan

Tap the fan through the slot using the trim tool, rotating the fan occasionally until it separates from the hub, its a friction fit.

Once the plastic fan is removed the steel internal drum can be pressed out of the case via the extended tip of the drum (on the yellow graffiti mark). The fan hub will release from the tip as well.

There are 2 bearings in the smog pump, a needle bearing, style B248 1 1/2" ID x 1 7/8" OD x 1/2" width that is pressed into the access hole in the internal drum and another on the top or pulley end of the case, a sealed 6203LLBC3/EM radial ball bearing, 17 mm bore ID, 40 mm OD, 12 mm width.

The needle bearing is pressed out of the internal drum. Actually I pressed the bearing into the drum then fished it out with a pry tool. Easier than trying to pull it with a slide puller

Attempt to pull the needle bearing with a slide puller - not effective

Sealed radial bearing

At the top of the aluminum case is the sealed radial ball bearing that is retained by injected plastic. I was able to press this bearing out by supporting the bearing carrier on the top of the case then pressing the bushing out from the inside of the case. Care is needed as the case is aluminum and easily damaged. The injected plastic material has a low melting point so another (better) option is to heat the aluminum case around the bearing with a propane or MAPP gas torch before attempting to press it out. That will significantly ease the removal. 

Disassembled pump following cleanup


First, press the cooling fan back onto the hub, this can be done with a rubber mallet. I find it easier with the fan face-down so the hub seats flush against the table surface. The fan is fragile so care is needed. Its a simple friction fit so no adhesive is required. 

Next press the new needle bearing into the internal drum. As the drum is steel pressing the bearing in is straight forward. Once pressed in I packed the bearing with heavy duty wheel bearing grease.

Installing the a new radial sealed bearing into the case. First, I removed the original injection plastic with a Dremel grinding wheel then polished the mating surface with a Scotchbrite bit. This left two deep grooves.

The sealed bearing is semi-friction fit and requires a locking material to retain it in place. IMO this isn't a very good design, a bearing retainer ring like the one used for the main bearing in the alternator is easier to work with. I used J-B Weld epoxy that requires 15 hours curing time. I liberally filled the channels previously occupied by the injection plastic and pressed the new bearing in place then set the case aside for the epoxy to cure. 

Injection channels loaded with J-B Weld

The new bearing loaded from the inside of the case and pressed in. Very little force was needed.

Now the wait for the J-B Weld to cure

In the meantime a couple of small things to take care of, media blast and paint the backing plate (semi-gloss black) and re-plate the 4 bolts for the backing plate (clear zinc)

With the J-B Weld fully cured the next step is to press the internal drum tip onto the the sealed bearing. This is the most delicate step in the process as it stresses the bearing and the epoxy filler / adhesive. I supported the bearing edge and the bearing carrier surface of the case then pressed the drum tip through the center of the sealed bearing.

The fan hub is pressed onto the stem on the drum from the top of the case. The drum must be supported from the bottom and not allowed to "dangle" inside the case or the sealed bearing could be unseated.

The backing plate can now be reinstalled on the back of the case and secured with the newly re-plated bolts. Once the backing plate is secure the fan-hub should spin freely, if not the drum is likely binding on the back of the case and hasn't been pressed through the sealed bearing far enough. It will need to be adjusted.

Wheel bearing grease is added to the bearing contact surface.

Note the drum tip is fully extended through the fan hub.

The rebuilt smog pump with the pulley bolts and lock washers added

Restoration / Parking Brake Assembly - Flange Nut Finish
« on: December 18, 2020, 08:51:44 PM »
I'll be re-installing the parking brake assembly on my 69 RS/Z project soon and in preparation was reviewing pre-tear down photos of the (2) flange nuts where they attach the assembly to the firewall, to confirm their finish. I thought the finish was manganese (dark) phosphate, consistent with the flange nuts used to attach the brake booster to the firewall, however from the photo below it appears the finish is instead gold dichromate / gold zinc. Can anyone confirm this?

Originality / 1969 Trunk Lock Retainer
« on: December 08, 2020, 11:25:40 PM »
The trunk lock retainer bracket was missing from my 1969 RS/Z (2B Norwood) project and I need to confirm the correct version. Here are photos of what may be the correct style, would appreciate input / confirmation:

(photos from eBay)


Restoration / 1969 Body Tail Light Wiring Harness, Rally Sport
« on: November 03, 2020, 12:53:22 AM »
Finally getting to the rear tail light harness install on my RS/Z project and noticed the tail light sockets on the American Autowire restoration harness are black plastic rather than brown on my original (along with other differences). I want to transfer the  original sockets to the new harness and I've tried unsuccessfully to disconnect the 3 wires and was hoping someone has done this and can offer some guidance.


Originality / Oil Pressure Gauge Sender Line Label
« on: July 14, 2020, 06:59:36 PM »
In the process of re-installing the oil pressure gauge sender line (U-17 option) on my '69 RS Z/28 project, when I referred back to the disassembly photos I noticed a label / wrapper on the original oil line near the firewall grommet / piercing. Wondering if this label was used on the assembly line to mark how far the line should extend into the engine compartment (8-10" inches)? Thoughts? Any member with an original U-17 optioned 69 have a similar label in that location on the oil line?

Original Oil Sender Line with Wrapper / Label

Restoration / 1969 Camaro Front Power Disc / Rear Drum Brake Clips
« on: June 21, 2020, 05:09:23 AM »
I just completed the restoration of the brake clips for my 1969 RS Z/28 Project. My research lead me to a few, incomplete threads on CRG so I thought I would contribute a comprehensive reference thread in case others can benefit from this information in future. All clips shown are original and restored, none are reproduction. All bolts are manganese phosphated and as there are several threads on CRG that discuss where to source phosphating solution and how to convert fasteners I won't address that process.The black chromate fasteners (3 - double hoop style) are first clear (silver) zinc plated followed by a black chromate immersion solution. The result is similar to low-gloss black paint however more durable and it doesn't flake or chip. The finish is also similar to Black Oxide immersion solution (which does not require zinc plating) and both are available from electroplating suppliers like Caswell. For the semi-transparent blue and green clips I used Steel F/X metal solvent dye. Its best to apply it with a low pressure air brush. It dries quickly and produces a fairly durable flat sheen finish. I applied two light coats. I've include a color coded (by clip) reference from the AIM as well as photos I took at MCACN of some original cars with undisturbed clips to show the location and orientation of each clip.

Front Subframe Cross Member Clips

Black Chromate Double Hoop Style Clips

Semi-Transparent Blue Dye Clips

The single Semi-Transparent Green Dye Clip

Clear Zinc Clip

Color Coded Clip Reference Locations

Original Clips - shown in order from back to front of car (along left /driver's side)

Position 1: Black Chromate Double Hoop - Left of Differential

Position 2: Semi-Transparent Blue Dye - Rear Inside Frame Rail

Position 3: Black Chromate Double Hoop - Underbody, bolted to floor

Position 4: Black Chromate Double Hoop - Underbody, bolted to bracket stand 

Transition Between Position 3 & 4 clips

Position 5: Shown on AIM however not used for Power Disc / Drum Brakes

Brake Line Routing Between Position 4 clip and Proportioning Valve

Proportioning Valve - Outside Sub Frame Rail between Position 4 and 6 Clips

Position 6: Semi Transparent Blue Dye - Sub Frame Rail Front

Position 7: Semi Transparent Blue Dye - Inside Sub Frame Rail

The following 3 clips are Bolted to the Firewall side of the Sub Frame Cross Member

Left Position: Semi Transparent Green Dye

Center-Left Position: Clear Zinc

Center-Right Position: Clear Zinc


Restoration / Fuel Sending Unit Details - Tape and Sleeve
« on: May 11, 2020, 07:45:21 PM »
For the 3/8" single fuel line on my '69 Z, the pipe terminates at the top of the rear frame rail then connects via a 5" rubber hose to the fuel sending unit. The sending unit's fuel pipe is secured, in part, by the fuel tank strap where there is a pinch point between the tank and strap (see photo and AIM diagram). At this position the sending unit pipe is protected by a rubber sleeve covered by tape (see AIM Parts #5 & #6.). During the disassembly of my project I took photos of the sleeve and what was left of the tape. I assume the tape is a crepe style as was used elsewhere during the assembly process. Does anyone have better information on the tape used on the sleeve?

Pinch point securing sending unit pipe showing protective rubber sleeve and tape remnants prior to disassembly

Sending unit pipe, sleeve and tape residual following removal of the fuel tank

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5