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Topics - JGraft

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Maintenance / Fuel Pump install on 396
« on: April 14, 2023, 05:46:23 PM »
Hi CRG Experts,

This is a Towanda 396 that had a leaking fuel pump. I viewed some youtube videos and the car manual about how to go about the removal/install process.

Some of the videos mentioned installing a fuel pump fastener into the top hole of the engine block to hold the push rod between the camshaft and the fuel pump in place, unfortunately on this engine there is not enough clearance between the water pump outlet and the block to be able to do this on the upper threaded hole. Other videos suggested using a hacksaw blade to hold the pushrod in place before removing the fuel pump, installing new fuel pump without disturbing the position of the hacksaw blade, then once aligned removing the hacksaw blade just before snugging the bolts, which is the method I tried, unfortunately this is a blind installation with no visible means to tell if the pushrod remained in the proper position.

There are currently no fasteners in the 2 locations (see fuelpump1 photo) on the front of the block, and there are no signs of oil leakage from either fastener location. I'm not convinced these threads go through to the interior on this block to clamp the pushrod in place.

There is a plug directly below the fuel pump (see fuelpump2 photo) which may provide access to the pushrod from below as well in some fashion?

If the pushrod somehow dislodged from its proper location during removal/install, is there any harm in trying to crank the engine (I presume no fuel so no firing would occur), or could this cause internal damage to something?

Any/all advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thx,
Jeff

2
Hi CRG experts,

Voltage measurement at the coil is 12.52 volts, voltage measurement at the battery is 12.63 volts, a difference of 0.11 volts.

Does this mean this vehicle does or does not have a resistor in the ignition system?

Thx,
Jeff

3
Hello CRG experts,

I recently purchased a Pertronix Ignitor Electronic Ignition and corresponding Flame Thrower coil assembly. When reading through the installation instructions, they stated "Warning: Do not use with solid core spark plug wires; RFI suppression spark plug wires must be used.

It was not obvious to me via internet searches whether or not the plug wires I have (see subject line) meet the requirement of RFI vs. TV-R suppression.

Please advise if users with a Pertronics ignition setup have had to replace their TV-R suppression spark plug wires as well.

Thx,
Jeff

4
Maintenance / AGM vs Wet cell batteries
« on: March 23, 2023, 09:38:02 PM »
Hi CRG experts,

I need to purchase a replacement battery for my car. Looking for recommendations on the type of battery to install, I do not want to have corrosion issues as a result of using the wrong battery style. Car also sits for weeks at a time but plan to keep a trickle charger like a "Battery Tender" on it. Car has a 396 in it so it needs some power to start. Please provide recommended battery manufacturer(s) and model ID's.

Thx in advance for your help,

Jeff

5
Decoding/Numbers / P/N 3925660 Muncie case markings
« on: March 14, 2023, 12:17:47 AM »
Hi CRG experts,

I recently removed reportedly an M20 transmission from my 1968 Camaro and are trying to determine the authenticity of it.  1. With the "US PATENT NO 3088330", the last "0" is a different font size. 2. With the "GENERAL MOTORS CORP.", the "P" is also a noticeably different font size. 3. The assembly information is marked "P8A24c" where the "C" is in a lower case instead of upper case. Relative to item 3 I found via CRG info the "C" or M22 identifier production began 10/21/68 which is much later than the assembly date stamp identified. 4. In the casting circle there is no raised bumps and no number to indicate the week and month the housing was cast.

18L333116 is stamped onto the top surface of the case.

Please see attached photos.

Thx,
Jeff

6
Restoration / New/Rebuilt Muncie transmission break in
« on: January 09, 2023, 06:10:59 PM »
Hello CRG experts,

I recently purchased a rebuilt Muncie 4 speed transmission and are reaching out to find out if there is any expert guidance on the break in process for it. Obviously the first step is to fill the transmission to the correct level with recommended lubricant.

1. Should the transmission be started in neutral and allowed to run for some period of time before trying to shift into any of the gears?

2. Is there an order of gear engagement (including reverse) which should be followed as part of the break in process?

3. When should the initial break in lubricant be changed out?

Thx,
Jeff

7
Maintenance / Adjustable vs. Non-adjustable clutch fork pivot ball
« on: December 10, 2022, 05:31:04 PM »
Anyone have any recommendations which type should be used and/or bad experiences with each of these? Adjustable ones are more expensive. Is adjustment capability of this item really necessary?

8
Maintenance / Brake pedal switch striker P/N 3917957
« on: November 24, 2022, 03:17:14 AM »
Does anyone have any photos showing how this part is installed on the brake pedal?

I have power brakes and a manual transmission so the clutch pedal is a major obstacle to work around to install/adjust the brake light switch as well.

Does anyone have a source for the P/N 3917957?

Does anyone have step by step instructions for installation of the brake light switch and the striker plate mentioned? Is it easier if you remove the drivers seat, etc.?

9
Maintenance / Balancing flywheel and clutch assembly together?
« on: November 24, 2022, 02:10:15 AM »
Has anyone heard of this? I recently purchased a Hays clutch kit along with a new flywheel and in the "Dos & Dont's Problems" paperwork from Hays
states "Hays recommends balancing clutch/flywheel as assembly before installation." The paperwork also states "Balance with crank if possible." Paperwork identifies this next to a problem of "Vibration at high RPM."

Just wondering if this balancing is really necessary or not and what other CRG experts might suggest. I do not intend to race the car, or rev the engine to extreme RPMs, it will only be an occasional street driver. I also don't want to put everything together to find out it needs to be disassembled to correct a clutch vibration problem.





10
Maintenance / Muncie 4 speed neutral positions
« on: November 13, 2022, 11:24:02 PM »
Does anyone have photos they can share of where the neutral positions should be for reverse relative to the tail housing and the forward gears from a side cover perspective? I presume when all of these are in the neutral position the output shaft should be able to be rotated independent of the input shaft - correct? If this is not able to be performed then I presume there is some sort of transmission assembly problem - correct?

11
Maintenance / Bell Housing PN 3998621 removal without engine removal
« on: November 06, 2022, 07:21:38 PM »
Has anyone been able to remove and reinstall a 621 bell housing in a 1968 camaro without removing the engine? From what I've read it seems it can be done but wanted to confirm with the experts. I plan to replace transmission, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bushing, and flywheel as well, so I need to be able to get the bell housing out/into the vehicle.

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