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Topics - sabino56

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General Discussion / 68 std distributor 1111440 and vacuum advance can
« on: November 03, 2020, 04:19:21 PM »
I'm getting my car running after sitting ~15 years.  The vacuum advance can is not working and I need a replacement.
I've read the previous threads, JohnZ's 101,  and advice (thanks to all, great info here!). I plan to get a "B28" and go to manifold port as recommended. I found an Airtex branded version PN  #4V1053 on Rockauto.
Two questions.
- I have the base 327/210hp with a 2bbl rochester.  It appears the vacuum for choke pull off at bottom back is manifold vacuum. Just checking that would work if I tee in there.

- I would like, for curiosity, get a vacuum can for the ported vac as it is now and get it running as it used to run and then switch. The current can is marked MS 355 15.  There are SMP VC171 "B22", VC24A "B1", VC169 "B9" cans listed in Rockauto as replacements for original.  Does anyone know the "correct" SMP can number or PN which corresponds to the "355" can?

Thanks for advice

Restoration / 68 std headlight bucket grill bracket direction
« on: July 05, 2020, 01:31:56 AM »
I was comparing the original headlight buckets from my 68 base coupe and some others I bought years ago as potential replacements. The original has the bracket for the grill facing to be mounted to from the rear which matches what the AIM shows.  The replacement has the bracket reversed to mate with bracket on grill from the front.  They appear identical other than the bracket direction. Both have a CHEV SAE H 68 stamp. The only other difference I see is that on the originals there is a 40 stamped on the driver bucket and a 41 on the passenger side bucket. 

Just curious as to whether the design changed at some point, though my car is a 06 build.  Or they are for something else?

General Discussion / What are these fenders?
« on: May 20, 2020, 04:23:53 PM »
Many, many years ago I bought what I was told were 67 fenders for a future restoration of my 68 coupe.
I recently got them out of storage and found that the headlight bucket mounts are different.  I thought that 67 fenders were the same as 68s with the exception of the side lights. The fenders do look/fit as my original 68 fenders with the exception of some minor non-functional metal forming around the radiator support mounts
It looks to me that someone cut out/bent over the original headlight bucket mounts and welded in different mounts?  are these for a 69 bucket? or are 67s different from 68s? The emblem holes were shaved also so it was not used previously as stock.
I'm thinking I'll fix/use my original fenders now. I'd like to know how to describe what I have when I move them on.
Thanks for your help

Restoration / Repair / strengthen cracked plastic on cluster 68 camaro
« on: December 13, 2019, 11:43:50 PM »
68 Camaro speedo/ gas instrument panel

The plastic is cracked around the screw holes at bottom and a crack is starting up towards bezels. 
Iíd like to prevent the crack from running and strength around the screw holes.
Wondering if anyone else has been through this and had success.
I was  thinking of trying JB weld on backside bridging crack.
Any suggestions on epoxies or glue for this plastic or suggestions would be appreciated!

Maintenance / Retainer for cable in dash - 68 camaro
« on: December 08, 2019, 09:32:21 PM »
I had to pull the pedal asm out to fix it. I'm putting back in and can't find where the main cable bundle is retained. Looking at plastic clip, I'm not sure it ever was.  Picture is in thru opening where gages would normally be located.  The end of the brake return spring is sticking up thru the pedal asm bracket and the cable is touching it if not retained somewhere.  There is a hole up close to the dash support at top - white arrow, but the cable doesn't have enough slack to reach it. 
I'm wondering if I'm missing something obvious or I need to figure out why cable doesn't have enough slack to get up to that hole.
Thanks in advance for any advice

Test Drive / Test
« on: December 08, 2019, 09:19:13 PM »

Maintenance / Lube recommendation for brake/clutch bushings
« on: November 18, 2019, 02:57:56 PM »
Iím cleaning up the brake assembly from a 68 manual brakes/clutch. The bushings on clutch pivot shaft and brake are good with no play.  There is some residue of old lube. What kind of lube should be used on reassembly? 

Restoration / Recommendation for rubber subframe and core support bushings
« on: September 14, 2019, 03:45:29 PM »
68 base coupe. 
Iíve read the many threads on rubber vs poly vs solid bushings.  I want to replace with rubber but having trouble finding source which looks ok. Iím not looking for perfect originality- just OEM looking type bushings. Iíd appreciate any experience & advice on sources.

Maintenance / 68 master cylinder rebuild - sanity check on options
« on: September 03, 2019, 02:26:40 PM »
I working to repair brakes on 68 coupe - manual drum all around.
I've read the many, many posts on this, inability to get secondary piston, need to ensure I have RPVs, etc. and just asking for sanity check on options.

I have a 5452310 MC on the car but it's not the right application - an "AB" stamped instead of "BS" and it does not have the RPVs.
I can get the secondary piston from a reman but even if the reman has RPVs I'll need new seats to get them out and it seems seats only come with rebuild kits (minus the secondary piston).  So seems I'd have to buy the rebuild kit (can't find source for Raybestos MK472 anymore - RockAuto doesn't carry it. But I can get it from Napa)  + take the secondary from a reman.  If anyone has recent experience on better sources - I'd appreciate it.

For new MC
I'm not trying to get perfect date coded car restored but I'd like it to look right. I can't stand the new MCs with stupid bold on top and won't put it on my car. I've looked around and Heartbeat City has something which looks reasonable. ClassicIndustries has something which looks like a casting for bleeders but without bleeders so I don't like that one.  If anyone has recent experience on source for reasonable looking manual drum I'd appreciate that too.

I could resleeve - I checked Apple and White Post which have good reviews.  Since the MC I have isn't really correct/original to car anyway, not sure I want to spend the money to preserve it.


Decoding/Numbers / AB stamped 5452310 Master cylinder
« on: September 01, 2019, 08:58:59 PM »
I have a 68 base coupe with drums all around.  I pulled the master cylinder to rebuild. It's a 5452310 which I understand is the right MC for this car.
I read in the research that 68's with drums would be stamped BS with possibility of some with CT. Mine is stamped AB. I don't see it in table in the research.
It has a 275 which I think is Julian date for casting - Oct?  but I don't know how to tell what year.  It also has a faint 281 on the machined surface for the front brake line port. 
I've had the car since 74 and don't recall replacing the MC but can't be 100% sure.
What applications used "AB" stamped 5452310 MCs? 
Thanks for advice

Decoding/Numbers / 68 water pump original to engine?
« on: August 31, 2019, 04:36:43 PM »
I have a 68 base model 327. I've had it since 74 and at some point I put away a water pump with intention of rebuilding. I found it the other day and trying to figure out it if was original to car or a replacement.

The car body tag is 06A.  The VIN 8N44xxx. The engine stamp is V0506MA.  From reading here I understand this to mean the car was built in June of 69 and engine was assembled on May 6th in Flint.

The water pump casting is 3782608 which I understand is correct for the engine. I'm confused by the casting date code -  D291.  I believe the D29 means it was cast on April 29.  However, I expected a 9 instead of the 1.  I read they switched to the "tall" water pump in the 69 model year. So if the "1" means 1971 would this indicate that this is a GM replacement pump made in 1971?

also - just curious on what the "29" after the GM means.  There is also a "29" on the back side of the pump.


Restoration / 68 gas tank basic rehab questions
« on: August 08, 2019, 08:55:33 PM »
68 327 basic camaro, hasn't run in about 15 years but was overhauled, running well just a few years prior. I'm starting to do basic restoration to make it drivable, nice looking.

I'm just wanting, at moment, to get it running to make it easier to move around in the garage to work.
I was unable to get gas to fuel pump so I dropped tank, pulled out sender. Fuel line in tank was clogged with what I assume is residue of whatever gas was in tank when I last drove it slowly evaporating over the years.  Tank looks really good inside for as long as it's been sitting. I'm in Tucson, so it's been in a dry environment - so very little to no rust inside. Mostly appears to be varnish like deposits from what I assume is the gas evaporation.

It has a 3/8" sender/fuel line.  I'm unable to find a 3/8" fuel tank screen/filter.  My normal sources Classic only has 5/16", RockAuto has both but both not in stock., Heartbeatcamaro just has one that says it fits everything?.   Any suggestions on source for 3/8" would be appreciated.

Advice on what would be good for inside of tank would be appreciated.  I was thinking I should try something to dissolve some of the varnish but then started wondering if best is to just leave it alone and let it slowly dissolve over time with gas in tank?  Just rinse & blow out - go for now?


Decoding/Numbers / Cowl tags field alignment
« on: August 07, 2019, 02:48:29 PM »
Iíve been reading threads and looking at pics of cowl tags and curious why the alignment of fields vary. For example, the example 69 tag in the CRG decode page shows the paint code aligned with 5th place of the body code above and x code aligned with it.  Iíve seen tags judged authentic in threads with paint code shifted left, sometimes the x code not aligned with paint code. 
Is it just that it was a manual thing and whoever was doing it just had to get the info in the right area, no specs on specific placement?


Decoding/Numbers / Protectoplate options question
« on: July 29, 2019, 03:06:55 PM »
I have a 68 327 base model coupe.  The L37 210hp, 2bbl, 3 spd manual. It's all original.
I bought it from the first owner in high school - 1975. I mowed his yard for years and when he was selling it - I got it and have had it ever since.
I hadn't looked in the folder for this car for 20-30 years but got in the other day.
I have the owner's manual, protector-plate, new vehicle inspection checklist, packet/holder.  Also a bunch of old service rcpts and an Ancient Age bourbon fishing guide...

It has factory air and a center console with a clock. The protectoplate only lists the radio as an option. I'm curious why.
The original owners name is embossed in plate, not something stuck on as described in the info here so I assume the dealer made the whole plate?
If so, is it common all the options are not listed on the protectoplate?
Just found the site and was reading about all the numbers, decode and found it very interesting.

Restoration / Opinions on restoration - 68 327 base model
« on: July 27, 2019, 05:50:20 PM »
I have a 68 327 base model coupe.  The L37 210hp, 2bbl, 3 spd manual. It's all original.
I bought it from the first owner in high school - 1975. I mowed his yard for years and when he was selling it - I got it and have had it ever since.
I have the owner's manual, protector-plate, new vehicle inspection checklist, and packet/holder. It was bought from dealer in Ft. Worth, I bought it in Houston, and it's been there and in Tucson,AZ ever since - so no rust to speak of except around windows.  So, nothing special in terms of rare or options but nice in terms of originality.
About 15 years ago, my son rear ended somebody and punched in the grill, kinked the hood & fender. I bought replacement hood & fenders from various people in the area and was going to restore it - but life got in the way and it's sat untouched. 
So now I want to get it back on the road. 
Originally, I thought since I already have fenders off I'd separate the subframe, replace bushings (nothing wrong with them except old and I assumed they've compressed), cleanup & paint engine bay.  Now, I'm not so sure - wondering if better to just get it running well, leave everything in engine bay as is and fix/repaint exterior.
I'm interested in opinions of what to do and would appreciate your advice.

A few other items which may play into plan.
Engine is fine, I rebuilt it in late 70s after I destroyed a cam as a kid. Runs well and is clean.  It probably could do with reseating the valves with all the unleaded gas but no noticeable issues in performance. Last I checked compression it was OK. I'll do that again when I get it running again to confirm.

It has a vinyl top. replaced once - there is the rust under the vinyl around rear windows which will need to be fixed.

When I bought car, he told me that he had been hit in rear qtr, drivers side.  It was visually fine at time.  I repainted car in late 70s.  Over the years in Tucson heat, I've noticed the paint in that area cracking so I assume there is a lot of bondo there. I was going to remove the paint and try to get a better look at that before painting. Thoughts/advice on how to approach/address this also appreciated.

Thanks in advance

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