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Topics - vabeach56wagon

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Restoration / .030 over pistons for 302: specs/supplier?
« on: February 25, 2020, 10:57:04 PM »
We are rebuilding the engine in our '69 Z....We have a .010 overbore block which is correct for the car...but the clean up bore will be .030 over. Can someone advise on the best pistons I should buy? Want to stay at 11-1, floating pins, 4.030 bore, 3" stroke

Rings ductile iron? .062 top and bottom; .124 oil?



1969 - Orphans / 19N688260 - V0725DZ is in our Z28
« on: January 24, 2020, 05:29:39 PM »
Our VIN is 124379N658489. The engine in the car (an X33D80) is an 010 block, 4 bolt mains, original pan, July 25 assembly and 19N688260 VIN stamp (as best we can tell). The heads are 186 cast one day apart (K18 and K28).

The engine has a rear main oil seal leak and quite possibly a minor head gasket leak. We are planning to pull it and rebuild but I would prefer to rebuild a correct cast date block, leaving the pad unstamped after decking.

Our schedule is mid-February '20 for the removal and disassembly. It would be wonderful to find the at-birth block and supply this one to its rightful car.

paul f.

Restoration / Wiring Console Gauges' 69
« on: November 27, 2019, 04:19:12 PM »
Can anyone give this idiot either pictures or explicit directions for the wiring connections on console gauges on my '69....

I have the AIM, the Jim Osborn '67-'69 wiring diagram manual (which is nothing more than the AIM).

But I am definitely confused as to the resistors, insulators, low fuel warning system....I was truly stupid and took no photos as I disassembled the cluster to install two new gauges and restore the cluster.


Maintenance / 186 heads - rocker arm studs
« on: November 14, 2019, 03:44:04 PM »
Please spare me the effort of removing a valve cover: are the 186 heads equipped with screw-in rocker arm studs? Memory fails me.

Mine are Dec 1 68 and Dec 2 68...



Restoration / Drive shaft specs - 69
« on: November 06, 2019, 05:33:43 PM »
Can someone give me actual dimensions of the stock driveshaft and the depth of the front yoke in the Muncie. Our '69 Z28 was a drag race car, we think. The driveshaft is 3-1/2" in diameter and seems the front yoke is shallow in its position in the Muncie. Last night I couldn't find a spec in the AIM.


Restoration / Door Jamb courtesy light/key buzzer switch
« on: September 18, 2019, 05:19:08 PM »
I have purchased and received a reproduction/replacement LH door switch. It has a rubber sleeve over the plunger. Is this simply to protect the plunger during shipment or was the sleeve installed originally? Doesn't seem to show up in any illustration in the AIM or elsewhere.

Thank you


Originality / 103 octane warning label
« on: September 03, 2019, 08:23:09 PM »
The repro parts houses list an adhesive label warning that 103 octane must be used or.....else, basically...

Is that another invention by a label printer somewhere?


Originality / Battery Caution Tag
« on: September 03, 2019, 07:14:00 PM »
Was this tag attached to the negative post of batteries in 1969 or the earlier years?



Originality / Oil Pan and Windage Tray
« on: May 12, 2019, 01:34:58 PM »
This car has had a chronic oil leak at rear of pan. I dropped the pan to discover the windage tray differs from what I've seen on this era SBCs plus it doesn't match McNeish's pictured curved edge windage tray.

Please take a look and comment:

The pan itself appears to be original:

The left rear corner of the pan is cracked at the horizontal surface and is not parallel to the rails. I can weld that up and straighten the corner if the pan is indeed original, but that doesn't answer the question of the flat windage tray.

I'm ready to pull the trigger to order a replacement pan, windage tray and pickup (PO did not weld pickup to pump body) if this pan and tray are not original and would greatly appreciate any input. Additionally, any recommendations on the pan gasket would be greatly appreciated. Cleaning the timing cover seal is not going to be easy with the engine in the car.

To remove the pan I did the following: drop idler arm from frame; loosen exhaust at manifolds; loosen trans mount bolts at trans; drain radiator and remove lower radiator hose; remove distributor cap; drain oil; remove starter; remove bellhousing dust cover; remove through bolts on both mounts; jack up engine with 2X6 on floor jack at RH exhaust manifold....drop pan.


Maintenance / Short cuts/advice in replacing rear main oil seal
« on: April 10, 2019, 05:26:55 PM »
Any helpful short cuts, cautions, tips, advice on process to replace leaking rear main oil seal....

Done it before but not on a Camaro. The car's currently up on stands; new Muncie ready to go in, bellhousing is off; clutch and flywheel are off for balancing.

I anticipate reassembling flywheel on back, including the rear crossmember mount, freeing side mounts, jacking motor up and then dropping the pan, etc.



Garage Talk / Absolutely Extraordinary Service
« on: April 03, 2019, 08:08:07 PM »
I've been messing with Tri-Fives, Corvettes, Camaros and other Chevy products for more than 50 years. I've used an awful lot of vendors and suppliers as you can well imagine.

I ordered an M22 for our current project, the '69 Z28, from Riverside Gear in Eaton Rapids, Michigan. Bob Casaday is the owner. The transmission was produced and shipped on the schedule given me. It arrived in its crate and my son and I installed it easily. We wanted to hear its whine and the effect of the new 4.10 rear gear set on this 302's performance. The transmission shifted flawlessly, made the right kind of M22 noises.

But when we parked the car we noticed a significant leak. It was fresh gear lube. The case was leaking at the front.

We pulled the transmission and called Bob at Riverside Gear. He immediately ordered a pickup from my shop by UPS. We re-crated the trans for its shipment. UPS picked it up last Tuesday (3/26).

I received notification today that the repaired (case boring was not to spec at the countershaft) was in the hands of UPS and would be delivered to me on Friday (4/5).

Riverside Gear never hesitated to make good, never queried me about anything I may have done to the transmission. They said: "Box it up, we'll pick it up and fix it so you won't have any additional problems." They did.

I can recommend to the highest degree Riverside Gear if you have any kind of driveline need for which these folks provide parts or service, especially Muncie transmissions.


Originality / Tilt wheel in Z28's
« on: January 23, 2019, 07:31:38 PM »
Was the tilt wheel N33 factory option available to 1969 Z28 buyers? And was N34, the wood wheel available with the tilt column. It would seem from the download of options that the answer is yes, but I have not seen much evidence of tilt wheels in Z's.

Thank you.

1969 - Orphans / '69 DZ engine: V0725DZ - 19N688280 (last 2 numbers are ??)
« on: December 28, 2018, 07:26:31 PM »
This fresh engine is in our '69 X33D80 VIN#124379N658489. Heads are 186's dated Dec 1 '68 and Dec 2 '68.

Will consider swap out of block and heads for late May - early June (prior to 6/16 assembly) block and heads in similar condition.

Maintenance / Voltage at the coil
« on: December 28, 2018, 06:33:55 PM »
Bear with me for a second:

I just replaced an off-brand distributor with an MSD 8360 Pro Billet (their ready-to-run version which does not require the box). In checking for voltage at the coil I found 12v at positive side of the coil with the ignition switch in RUN... and 9 volts at start...just the reverse of what should be in place for a points-style original distributor. The MSD needs 12v at RUN.

I haven't pulled the harness nor separated the wiring (yellow and wrapped white?) yet and am wondering how the previous owner could have wired this thing backwards.

As I intend to install an original 480 distributor in the very near future resolving this issue is important.


Maintenance / Power Valve on the 4053 Secondaries
« on: December 12, 2018, 02:57:30 PM »
Is that PV absolutely necessary or have others plugged it?

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