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Messages - z28z11

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1
Decoding/Numbers / Re: 1969 Z28 rear panel emblem
« on: Today at 01:54:30 AM »
Forgot to add the front view -

2
Decoding/Numbers / Re: 1969 Z28 rear panel emblem
« on: Today at 01:39:16 AM »
My tail emblem, on the car in '73 when I bought it, "28" is silver, see pics for markings. Known the car since '72 when I first worked on it, long before Trim Parts reproduced the emblems. I have no doubt the emblem is original to the car, which is a documented car. Emblem removed and stored since '81.

Regards,
Steve

3
I'll add a little clue list to look for - check out the engine frame mounts for appearance and part number(s), which are stamped on the top edge of the plate where it faces up towards the fenders. If they are correct, and not brand new in appearance or relatively newer in appearance to the subframe, that might give you some hope for original BB options. Check the condition of the trans tunnel where the 4 speed shifter would have mounted. Fuel line mounting and diameter over the subframe in the area of the upper A-arm ? Disc brake car ? Console ?  These are clues, not determining factors by any means, but will help understand how the car may have been optioned when it left the factory.

In any event, it's a pretty car, and I join the statement that you can be proud of it and enjoy showing it regardless of the authenticity/pedigree. I'm fortunate to be a '68 owner with documentation, but i understand your want to verify what you own.

Regards,
Steve

4
Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor...another repro body tag?
« on: August 25, 2023, 06:23:20 PM »
I think beating on it with a ball pein hammer helped the aged appearance of the tag quite a bit - but I’m no expert.

Steve

5
General Discussion / Re: 1969 Camaro Z28 distributor 1111480
« on: August 22, 2023, 03:48:25 AM »
Question.

Why a lot of the 1969 Camaro Z28 distributors (1111480) seemed to get traded out with something else back in the day?

I swapped mine for a Mallory YL-482HP dual point in '73, mainly because I ran that distributor on my Bel Air for years before I sold the '57 and bought the Z in '73 (and replaced the Mallory on the '57 with the Delco dual point that was on it when I bought it). I only ever set the points twice on the Mallory in all the years of driving both cars - once when new, once when I set it up on the Z. Terrifically reliable piece of equipment, finally sold the Mallory last year after 53 years of ownership. -

6
Originality / Re: Endura Bumper Brackets
« on: August 22, 2023, 03:06:52 AM »
Try this thread from a few years back. Repop brackets have improved over the last several years, a lot closer than they used to be. Bumpers have improved, but still need a little extra effort to be closer to the OE profile, particularly the ends. Bracket pics are on page 2 -

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=9976.msg74662#msg74662

Regards,
Steve

7
General Discussion / Re: Mecum 69 Camaro
« on: August 22, 2023, 02:44:23 AM »
You know, it doesn’t mention any claims to high end originality, even down to the “date coded” 350. The balance of the car looks pretty good, with the exception of the missing or misplaced items that could easily be corrected. I’d consider it as a nice modified car, and agree with the misuse of “concours”. I don’t disparage Mecum by any stretch, I’d rather watch them than BJ any day of the week.

As always, my own opinion.

Regards,
Steve

8
Man, I imagine only someone that tried that would know. Is the bolt pattern similar at all? Next question: why? If you have a crossram, why would you want to run 1x4 on that manifold? Why not just install a single 4bbl manifold that will work properly?

The manifold tops are very close, the largest difference being the Offenhauser bolts are 1/4", the Winters intake top is drilled for 5/16" bolts. I still have a couple of Offenhauser gaskets to check with, but unfortunately no Winters to match them up with (sold all of my Offenhausers, had two single four tops at one point in time). That would be the easiest way to check -

Regards,
Steve

9
Originality / Re: 69 SS AIR CLEANER COVER
« on: February 27, 2023, 06:50:17 PM »
Correct - OE is decidedly different. Automatic cleaners are easy to find, if you’re lucky you can locate a good donor. Aircraft stripper works quickly, followed by beading if you have any scale. Rusty parts will require a lot more work in the plating process that might affect the final appearance in terms of heavier copper coat vs. an OE chrome finish (most plate shops offer “show” vs. “OE” chrome).
Good luck and let us know how you come out -

Steve

10
Originality / Re: 69 SS AIR CLEARNER COVER
« on: February 27, 2023, 05:08:16 PM »
I’m not trying to push Classic’s offering, but take a look at KW461 from the current catalog - I severely doubt you could source an OE painted lid and chrome it for this price. Inexpensive - and appears correct. Just a suggestion -

Regards,
Steve

11
General Discussion / Re: 1969 Camaro L-48 SS air cleaner and chrome lid
« on: February 06, 2023, 01:40:01 AM »
Vince - do you need a manual or automatic cleaner ? Send me a PM.

Steve

12
Restoration / Re: Muncie shifter on the saginaw
« on: January 19, 2023, 06:45:23 PM »
Hey DW,

Think I know what Phillip is asking. Look at the collar (9) and the ball bearings (15). I vaguely remember a spring in the assembly, but I don’t have one to look at. If the pic is too large from my phone, I’ll text it.

Steve

13
General Discussion / Re: 1968 Radiator Tag
« on: January 19, 2023, 06:18:00 AM »
Make sure it looks like this one. Sure looks like an "H" to me !

Fortunately one less thing I have to look for. How it stayed on the car (the whole radiator) all these years before my ownership is a wonder -

Regards,
Steve

14
Whoever wrote the "did not appear on original coils" must not have looked at very many, or at a still-legible end frame. I assure you it is there, unfortunately you have to squint to see mine underneath 55 year old crud (I very carefully did NOT try to clean it off due to the apparent fragility of the ink or paint). If you inspect it under magnification, the lettering is identical to service parts, for a very good reason - same supplier did all of them. I researched and contacted the OEM many years ago, verified who they were and what they supplied (this was laborious, before the internet and Google heyday, when you had to read things and make phone calls). Rochester Division of A/C (Rochester NY) stamped the coil date and the part number likely when they received the valve assembly from the supplier before valve installation and shipping. From all of my research, they were batch built, as there seems to be a small date sample from the originals I've ever researched. I have two NOS "service" coils, and at least one other original (other than this one) that all have identical part numbers and info.

If you remove the printing as specified by whoever suggested it, you will be incorrect in my honest estimation. As usual, just my opinion - 

Regards,
Steve

P.S. I should have added you should leave the end frame part number, and remove the reproduction GM number from the side and restamp/ink it. The GM number they applied looks far worse that than the OEM part number on the end of the coil frame in my view.

15
BTW, the ‘69 Legends Judge Manual does not mention the difference noted above between the ‘69 front and rear window crank handles, despite going into tons of detail about interiors. JM help draft the judge manual but the detail on the window crank handles was not mentioned yet it was noted in a cert report.  The Legends Judge Manual is well done and a great resource, but I am already looking forward to the next edition…lol!
[/quote
BTW, the ‘69 Legends Judge Manual does not mention the difference noted above between the ‘69 front and rear window crank handles, despite going into tons of detail about interiors. JM help draft the judge manual but the detail on the window crank handles was not mentioned yet it was noted in a cert report.  The Legends Judge Manual is well done and a great resource, but I am already looking forward to the next edition…lol!

Original crank handles are really flat to the panels, more evident on the rear cranks. I surmise it changed or was superseded early on. Later service and maybe mid production cranks have more ‘arch’ in my view. I would welcome opinions -

Steve


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