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Messages - ko-lek-tor

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1969 - Orphans / Re: L78 19N509772
« on: Today at 03:56:18 PM »
Thanks G.W.

1969 - Orphans / Re: L78 19N509772
« on: Today at 01:49:56 PM »
I believe this is the same block discussed. Here is a picture of pad for records. Could someone post up on the site the picture? I am unable.

Restoration / Re: Heater hoses
« on: June 11, 2018, 12:41:37 PM »
Drawings are not gospel, pictures are

Originality / Re: Under-Dash Heater Box
« on: June 05, 2018, 01:04:41 PM »
I would offer that the heater enclosure would be similar to the rad & Engine side heater core cover, a nice gloss black. They were constructed by the Harrison supplier and supplied to the factory. Others will add to this. I seem to see a restoration path as full gloss black lacquer as a good route, or the fancy labeled high heat rad paints.


My expertise is the 69. It is suede, same as the top of dash and interior cove at the lower sail and back window. Until further refuted, I will say the color of the ‘68 is “suede”.

General Discussion / Re: hose clamps
« on: May 31, 2018, 01:06:28 AM »
If you have an AIM, it will show where clamps go and what clamp is needed
Water hoses use tower type clamps. Not sure on the sb, but bb has non tower type clamps (2), on the water pump bypass. Other hoses like power brake booster, fuel lines and off use various spring ring type clamps that are color coded as to size. If you care to PM me, there is a guy in Oklahoma, that I can provide a name,  that will fix you up with a set of clamps you need at a reasonable price unless you need all dated correctly?

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Muncie ID
« on: May 31, 2018, 12:55:43 AM »
Look in the AIM under M20 for ID tag application.

Discussed here.

As for your question S is for St Louis plant. 

It takes a little digging for info on the net, but much is there. I found a Chevelle site that listed a lot of plants and their corresponding alpha code. Do a search for GM plant codes of the 1960s. Once you figure the plant initial code, then you can learn what was built at that particular plant.

Originality / Re: 1969 Small Block Smog Pump Cradle
« on: May 25, 2018, 03:13:56 PM »
More Tim,

Originality / Re: 1969 Small Block Smog Pump Cradle
« on: May 25, 2018, 03:11:53 PM »
Inscription on part says, "69 sb smog". My car is a very late 3E car with many April dated components.

Originality / Re: 1969 Small Block Smog Pump Cradle
« on: May 24, 2018, 10:54:46 PM »
Guess I saw this title (week ago)earlier, but never read the post. My car is a Norwood, but I have it’s oe assembly bracket (March 69 car) and I  promise I will look at this bracket and report back,  Tim.

General Discussion / Re: Big block fan shroud
« on: May 24, 2018, 11:39:21 AM »
Most over the counter GM shrouds have 3 beads across the top rounded area.

General Discussion / Re: NOS Cragar 15x4
« on: May 23, 2018, 05:24:08 PM »
Super cool running onto that! Assume for a Chevy, that is why you posted on here?  I would say golden chicken lips will be easier to find? Pictures please! I’d like to see that wheel
Fella I know in S East Ohio would be you best chance.

Originality / Re: Original Born with Battery Trays LOS NOR
« on: May 22, 2018, 04:36:40 AM »
Looks good Lloyd . Your car is going to turn out real nice, if everything looks as nice as that battery tray, wow.
I have never seen anything but top of the line work by Lloyd. Any of us would be too fortunate to own one of his masterpieces. Bravo!
Thanks - it’s a painstaking process - 1 part at a time.

Originality / Re: Correct starter brace for '68 small block ???
« on: May 18, 2018, 05:45:03 PM »
I wonder how many of those are in the landfills. I have changed starters in several Chevys I have owned over the last 45 years. All of which were used when I bought them. None of the starters I changed had the bracket. It was always left off by whoever preceded me? It's an important item. All the extra cantilevered weight of a starter without the brace hanging there definitely affects its operation. If you do an experiment and compare the sound/operation of the starter with and without the bracket, there is a dramatic difference.
My car never had one either. If it wasn't for the illustration in the AIM, I wouldn't have known it was supposed to be there. It just makes sense that something that heavy should have support at each end.


I have seen several blocks with the corner, outer starter bolt hole, broken off, because the front starter brace was left off. If it was not needed, Chevy would have left them off, as well. I have repaired broken blocks that were damaged by braces left off.

General Discussion / Re: motor mounts
« on: May 17, 2018, 02:50:33 PM »
I agree Jon...    Team Camaro is more suited to 'aftermarket updates'...   CRG should stay true to it's purpose and function!

CRG does stay true..  Next you will want to build a wall around CRG..  Nothing wrong with having diversity..  lol  sorry that was a political joke and I couldn't help myself.. 

Team Camaro.?.  Do people still go there?

10-10 Camaro lives matter, and all others Camaros, as well. Except HO, which is better. ( just adding humor to keep this civil)



My question is more about the best way to obtain an actual working date coded 1100693 ...

So now when I go looking for one like I gave away back then what are my choices? On eBay they pop up all the time like this one for $90...

But they are almost all sold as "rebuildable core", so after I have it, should I send it to someone

Or is there a better way? Related question, the original alternator being only 37A, could the internals be upgraded to say 55A output?
...the alternator in my car now is model #1100692...?
I have several 693s and I would sell for less. There is a place near me that rebuilds for about $50, I have so many alternators , I just rob parts from other ones and “ rebuild” * my own to keep mine going. Yes, it can be upgraded to a 55 amp or any amp you want as well as it can be modified to have an internal regulator, like a 10SI, and also can be modified with an exciter of a lower rpm threshold, meaning to alternator charging can start with very little rpm- handy if you idle a lot.
1100692 Pontiac 65-6 Boneville, Grand Prix
* I would imagine for $375 it would be shiny as new and have ink stamps and plated pieces replaced with newly plated? Mine have none of that, but when I do one, it is cleaned thoroughly and functional, but looks like a survivor quality job. The shop for $50 or whatever will do the same and use new bearings, brushes and replace whatever else is needed, but it will not be a “show” restoration , like the E-Bay  ad you cite.

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