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Messages - KK302

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1
Originality / Re: 1969 tail light bulbs
« on: July 22, 2022, 07:41:25 PM »
The AIM (UPC12 - D4) details the wiring diagram for the rear (standard non-RS) tail lights. The AIM also indicates that this rear harness was installed by Fisher Body. Page 16-43 of the Fisher Body manual provides a tail bulb usage chart, and indicates a #67 for the inboard tail lamp, #1156 for the backup, and #1157 for the outer tail lamp. I tried to attach copies of the manuals , but they're too large a file. Hope this info helps.


KK

2
General Discussion / Re: Burgundy Z with Red stripes
« on: January 09, 2020, 02:08:55 PM »
I was over at Mecum Kissimmee the other day and got a chance to look at this car. I didn't realize that the Burgundy offered in 69 was a metallic color. It showed well, although the paint was beginning to bubble in the seam where the quarter panel meets the rear deck filler panel, below the rear glass. Not sure what was going on there, or how easy it would be to repair. it will be interesting to see what it sells for.

3
Test Drive / Test Picture
« on: January 09, 2020, 01:56:19 PM »
Test

4
Restoration / Re: Cowl Vent
« on: December 10, 2018, 05:18:35 PM »
Comes right off - done it a couple of times on my Z11 (taking pics of the A/C valve and bulkhead underneath the cowl).

Regards,
Steve

Thanks, I'll give it a try.

5
Restoration / Cowl Vent
« on: December 08, 2018, 01:51:50 PM »
Is it possible to remove the cowl vent (windshield wiper area) without removing the cowl induction hood? Looks like it's a close fit and I'm not sure if anyone has attempted to remove it in this way.

Thanks.

6
General Discussion / Re: Quarter Panel Stiffener
« on: October 31, 2018, 06:25:29 PM »
No seam sealer is applied below the bumper. Any NVH you buy will be fine for the stiffener.

Thank you. I appreciate the help.

7
General Discussion / Quarter Panel Stiffener
« on: October 28, 2018, 04:45:24 PM »
I was reading the attached  (http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=8653.0) concerning the correct installation method for the quarter panel stiffener where it indicates to use Duramix 4274 NVH dampening material to bond the non welded area of the stiffener to the inside of the quarter panel. Since this thread is from 2011, would the Duramix NVH still be the correct material to use in this area? Or are there other "newer types" of dampening materials available for use instead of the Duramix.

I have the stiffeners already installed (welded in the appropriate place) but the shop failed to put the dampening material in. I'm assuming I can reach up there from the trunk to squeeze the adhesive in between the stiffener plate and quarter panel?

And one last question. I'm assuming (from the pictures of original cars on the website) that the lower tail light panel to quarter panel corner seam (red arrow) should not be filled with seam sealer. Is that correct.

Thanks as always for your help.
 


8
Restoration / Re: Front Seat Installation
« on: August 21, 2018, 01:42:03 PM »
The slit starts from the rear carpet edge. Here is a link to a previous discussion:
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=9812.msg77499#msg77499
I recommend to lay out the carpet and install the door sill plates before slitting the carpet so you get a more accurate cut. A friend slit his rug first and put the sill plates on later and when pressing the rug for a good fit that caused the carpet to pull slightly and made the slit visible.

Mike

Mike,

Thank you for the link to that previous discussion. It explains it perfectly and the pictures are excellent.

Also a great point about installing the sill plates first. I was going to leave them until last so as to not damage them. But I think I have an old pair laying around the shop which I'll use to get everything lined up before I cut.

Thanks again for your help.

Kurt

9
Restoration / Re: Front Seat Installation
« on: August 21, 2018, 01:16:34 PM »
No holes punched.  Carpet had a slit cut along both sides of the foot that allows carpet to fold back over and cover the foot and bolt head.
My original 67 has the (original) front carpet slit starting from the rear edge to the seats front bolts

Mike

Thanks for the quick replies. Perfect timing. I just finished the carpet install and I'm ready to install the seats. So if I understand correctly. There is a slit in the carpet for each track that runs from the rear bolt hole to the front bolt hole for each seat. Is that correct?

10
Restoration / Front Seat Installation
« on: August 21, 2018, 11:02:42 AM »
I'm assuming that the front bucket seat tracks should be installed on top of the carpet with holes punched through for the bolts to go through? As opposed to cutting the carpet for the track assembly to mount directly to the floor. Is that the correct way to do it? I looked in the Original Car and Details section, but there wasn't a picture showing this specific area and a search didn't reveal any info either.

Thank you

11
Restoration / Re: Radio Dial Lense
« on: August 06, 2018, 09:33:27 PM »
I think the AM/FM slider has to be removed. And no I don,t remember how to.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. There is a clip that holds the slider in, however its buried inside the radio. But I found that if you remove the two remaining nuts on the volume control and tuning control, and a few remaining screws (3), you can slide the whole front of the radio off. After that, just remove the four spring clips and the lens slides off. No need to remove the slider, since the push buttons for changing stations stay with the radio and the slider no longer interferes with the removal of the lens. Thanks again for your help.  KK

12
Restoration / Radio Dial Lense
« on: August 06, 2018, 12:59:58 PM »
After a long hibernation, I plugged my original, as supplied, AM/FM single speaker mono radio in and everything works as you would expect for a nearly 50 year old radio. I don't want to do any type of upgrade to the unit, but I would like to change out the radio dial lens. I see Trim Parts sells the replacement lens, but I can't figure out how to get the old one out. There appears to be four spring clips holding the lens in. Removing these loosens the lens, but there isn't enough room to slide the old one out and I don't want to break anything in the process. Does anyone know the trick to removing the lens? Thank you.

13
Restoration / Re: Upper A-arm Splash Shields
« on: July 15, 2018, 04:04:34 PM »
Tim, I found what I used and they were REM. Let me know how much material you want from the sheet I have and will send to you if you want to cut ones out. I will load a picture and post of that material.
Thanks Chick. I looked up R.E.M. Automotive and they have a large number of vendors selling their products (http://www.remautoinc.com/links.php). If the shields I ordered don't meet expectations (I have no reason to think that), I will try contacting one of the authorised vendors to find the R.E.M. version.

I put each staple through the inner fender and rubber shield and bent the two ends of each staple over with needle nose pliers. Then I masked off the outside (finished side) of the inner fender where the staple heads were located and used a hammer and dolly. The dolly went on the (taped) outside of the staple head, and hammering was done on the inside of the inner fender to each staple end to fully bend them over and get them tight.

14
Restoration / Re: Upper A-arm Splash Shields
« on: June 25, 2018, 09:00:00 PM »

Vendor: Restoration Specialties  http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/
Part #: MAT014-WS  (All Black Rubber; 1/16" Thick Rubber With Fibers Used On Splash Aprons, A-Arms & Wheel Wells; 43" Wide)


As a follow-up, I received my order of this material from Restoration Specialties late last week. The formulation must have changed since others have ordered/used it - the material I received has a gloss finish with no visible fibers, its reminds me of a thick pool liner. NOT suitable as an OEM substitute for inner fender splash guards. Disappointing.   

Sounds like they may have changed the product that they sell. I looked at the invoice for the stuff I purchased back in 3/17 and it was described as "Rubber Matting 1/16 thick black masticated 48 inch wide". The fibers looked like white cotton or nylon string and were contained in the rubber sheet itself. Not exposed on the outside, but it gave the outside surface a bumpy look (not glossy) which resembled the originals pretty well. It also made cutting the material a little more difficult because of the "cotton" string.

15
Restoration / Re: Upper A-arm Splash Shields
« on: June 23, 2018, 01:11:37 PM »

Posted by: 69Z28-RS
« on: June 22, 2018, 10:19:13 PM » Insert Quote
Appears you did a great job, KK...  :)

Thank you!

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