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Messages - tmodel66

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General Discussion / Re: Holes in choke tower of Holleys? WHY?
« on: August 28, 2013, 05:16:31 AM »
Why not just buy a double pumper carb to start with?

I had the same tach on my L-48 mounted to the steering column with radiator hose clamps.

Restoration / Re: Dang Mice!
« on: August 13, 2013, 02:36:03 AM »
The little fellers get everywhere and ruin dang near everything they touch.

Originality / Re: Chrome shifter knob
« on: July 29, 2013, 03:46:41 PM »
The threads strip out pretty easy and it pulls off the shifter into your hand too. I don't like the T-handle and me personally think they belong on a pulpwood truck but .........

Decoding/Numbers / Re: 67 Camaro Engine Identification
« on: July 29, 2013, 03:34:57 PM »
Only one was required and installed on the drivers side at the dealership. Since the engine rotates clockwise (as seen from the front of the car (or counter-clockwise as seen from the drivers seat), the torque would make it "lift" on the driver side. The cable kept it from doing this by tightening up if the engine mount failed. One on the passenger side wouldn't do anything but slack the cable!


Ed isn't this backward? I'm not being a know-it-all nor a smarty pants, and I may be wrong but I think they rotate clockwise sitting in the drivers seat.

Originality / Re: Chrome shifter knob
« on: July 28, 2013, 04:11:03 PM »
LOL I learned the hard way that a aftermarket Hurst white plastic ball is your friend with convertibles.
The metal ball when the top is down is hotter then the surface of the sun in your paw.
Think some heat is transferred from the drive train as well as the solar radiation the ball picks up just by sitting in direct sunlight.
So I often leave my plastic on all the time.

I have my White replacement ball on and it will stay. You are so correct that chrome ball is hotter than a 2 dollar pistol.

1968 - Orphans / 18N31972x M22 on eBay
« on: July 26, 2013, 02:47:42 PM »
M22 on eBay  build date P8P20  VIN 18N31972x   the link to auction is HERE

Location:Grand Rapids, Ohio

Seller: ostatediesel

Decoding/Numbers / Re: True SS?
« on: July 26, 2013, 02:20:20 AM »
 It will have documentation with the title I would think. I know state law vary from state to state but it should have a distinctive title with it saying the VIN has been replaced by CHP.

Maintenance / Re: 1969 Z/28 DZ 302 overbore to .040? Piston Source?
« on: July 25, 2013, 02:16:13 AM »

Mine must have been one of the trials - less than .0002 (read as 2/10,000's, not .002) taper in the bore after 50K plus miles - machine shop remarked it was extremely straight, considering the wear on the pistons. BTW - a lot of 010 blocks are around with just that percentage cast on the block surface. Bores usually look pretty good compared to blocks like my 2 - 678's - heavy ring lands that took at least a .030 overbore.


And, as it turned out after further research with the Saginaw Foundry (now called Saginaw Metal Casting Operations, part of the GM Powertrain Division), the old story many of us were led to believe about the 010/020 describing the tin/nickel alloy turns out NOT to have been true at all, although the magazines thought it was true and continued to publish the tale, and still do today.

Actually, the "010/020" cast into the front bulkhead under the timing cover turned out to be simply the identifier for the foundry pattern for the front bulkhead, which was shared by the 3970010 (350) and 3970020 (307) blocks; it had nothing to do with the iron alloy, which was never altered for any particular production block (although the alloy was altered for some later low-volume GM Performance Parts over-the-counter "Bowtie" blocks).

Decoding/Numbers / Re: 1967 RS
« on: July 24, 2013, 09:25:34 PM »
My bad there on the build year.  Yes.  My '67 is a 10/11 - '66 build car.

Are you ever going to get us some pictures put up? OH how we love pictures !!! 8)

Maintenance / Re: 1969 Z/28 DZ 302 overbore to .040? Piston Source?
« on: July 24, 2013, 01:43:38 PM »
My DZ 302 is out and apart for the first time since I got it. The block is already at .030 and needs to go a little further.

    Not trying to be nosey, or reinvent the wheel, but what does the block measure out as ? When I rebuilt my '69 in '75, the original pistons were worn, but the block was great after 50K miles - the high tin/nickel content in the block casting did what GM bumped the percentages up for; kept wear to a minimum in the block, pistons become the wear parts.

Not according to JohnZ. All the added tin and nickel was dropped because it didn't improve the blocks.

" the "010-020" raised numbers that indicate the 0.1% and 0.2% tin and nickel content in some blocks; that was an extended tryout where the added tin was to improve machinability and the added nickel was to improve bore wear. It was discontinued when the promised warranty improvements failed to appear, and the added cost was no longer justified."

Originality / Re: 1968 parchment interior?
« on: July 20, 2013, 10:23:19 PM »
I wouldn't bet my life on it but I think Black was default with Parchment.

Originality / Re: 1969 Z 28 pictures looking for input
« on: July 17, 2013, 02:58:47 PM »
Call me crazy but I would have to say somebody screwed up on the heater hose bracket. I've been pulling wrenches since buck was calf and I ain't never seen a silver one.

1969 - Orphans / Muncie M21 VIN 19N523216 on eBay
« on: July 17, 2013, 02:48:35 PM »
Muncie 19N523216 M21 with shifter is HERE

Seller: oneultraman

Location:  Milford, Ohio

Originality / Re: Exhaust manifold bolts.
« on: July 12, 2013, 02:10:04 AM »
Yeah I got a kit from AMK and included everything including the French locks.

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