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Messages - DAVEN1256

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My guess would be there is a ton of people on the forum with headliner experience.

Any more thoughts on this? My biggest concern is installing the sail panels. Do all brands of sail panels on the back look like the one from Distinctive? Do some come with brackets for the push in clips like the original GM?

I posted this on Team Camaro also. A memember on that site said he got his from Classic Industries and it had the slots for the mounts. I don't know how long ago he got them but when I look them up on CI's website, it says the pre-coverd panels come with Velcro for attachment. The uncovered sail panel boards come with no hardware.

I'm still concerned about the strong odor too and if it would fade over time.

So I'm still trying to figure out what I have here with this Distinctive Industries headliner and sail panels. Something worth keeping or something I need to return and start looking elsewhere.


Before I start this, let me say I have ZERO experience with headliners other than removing my original. I've never put one in, never seen anyone put one in, or even seen a reproduction in person before!

I picked up a Distinctive Industries brand headliner from Ecklers warehouse in Titusville, FL. The kit included the headliner, sail panels already covered, and sunvisor material. I opened the box while I was there for a quick look to compare the appearance to a piece of my original GM. It was a good match appearance wise. In the photo below, the three small pieces are sitting on the Distinctive sunvisor material.

After getting it home and really looking it, here's what I found..... and need some questions answered.

1) Compared to headliner sample pieces I got from TMI, PUI, and Legendary, the Distinctive was the closest in appearance to a piece of my original GM headliner that was tucked under and had never seen the light of day......The pattern of the TMI and PUI are correct but both have a little duller sheen than the GM piece.  The Distinctive's sheen was spot on the GM. The Legendary sample was nothing like the GM......So appearance wise, the Distinctive is great!

2) Out of the box, the Distinctive has a very strong vinyl odor! Exactly like if you took a brand new vinyl shower curtain out of it's packaging and how strong it smells....I couldn't take smelling that every time I got in my car....Is this normal? Do all brands smell that way out of the box and would it fade over time?

3) My biggest concern is how you would mount these sail panels. The original GM's had four brackets fastened to the back of the sail panel. A clip went in the bracket and then the clip was pushed into holes in the sail panel structure of the body. The distinctive sail panel has no brackets for the clips to fasten to. There are patches of reinforced cardboard on the back with small holes in it. My guess is maybe you are supposed to put your clips in these holes. The problem with that is that first off, you need four clips per side and there are only three holes, the holes are too small to put an original clip in, and the holes are close but not in the same position as the clips on the originals. Two of the at least an inch off! I have no idea how I would mount these.

So I'm needing opinions on this Distinctive headliner and sail panels. Is what I'm seeing here (and smelling) here the norm with all manufacturers or should I return these and look for something better?


ps....For what it's worth, I measured the thickness of all the samples I have here. I'm not sure if the differences are significant.

                         TMI  .0210 inches
Distinctive Industries  .0220 inches
         My original GM  .0235 inches
                         PUI  .0240 inches


Restoration / Re: Window felts - '68 w/ deluxe interior + reveal moldings
« on: September 30, 2018, 02:28:25 AM »
Any '68 owners out there with a deluxe interior and reveal moldings that have replaced their inner and outer window felts....and can comment about the quality and fit of the brand they used.


Restoration / Window felts - '68 w/ deluxe interior + reveal moldings
« on: September 28, 2018, 01:36:03 AM »
I'm am looking for a full set of inner and outer window felts for a '68 coupe with the deluxe interior and the reveal moldings on top of the doors and quarter window area.

Some time ago, I had tried two brands and looked at a third but they all had problems Hopefully, things might have changed between then and now.

1st set: This was several years ago. I ordered from Steele Rubber and got a box of Repops brand inside of a Steele shipping box. The problem with these was  the triangular shaped tabs on the outer felts that fit into slots on the reveal moldings and then get bent over. They were not stamped completely through and could not be pried up. They were useless as they came out of the box!

2nd set: Don't remember the brand but I looked at them in person at Eckler's facility in Titusville, FL. The same tabs on the outer felts that I mentioned above did not match up with the slots on my reveal moldings. Again useless!

3rd set: These are PUI brand and pictured below. PUI part number F236-1...... I had two concerns with the outer felts. One was the thickness of the "whiskers." They are an 1/8th thick. I have seen others in person and in pictures on this site where the "whiskers" look to be a 1/4 to 3/8 thick. This includes pictures of original GM pieces. My side glass is not in but I wonder if at 1/8 thick they will be thick enough to pressup against the glass......The other is that the top edge of the metal strip that the "whiskers" are attached to is chrome and not black like the originals.

There are three major problems with the PUI inner felts.....The flat stainless steel bead on the top of the felt that sits on top of the door panel does not extend over the door panel as far as the orignal GM piece. The problem with this is that the outer edge of the orignal GM pieces have left a permanent indentation in the door panel vinyl that the PUI piece doesn't cover......The PUI piece that fits on the quarter panel reveal molding in bent incorrectly. The original GM piece was formed with a curve in it. The PUI piece was made straight and then bent afterwards. The piece is distorted at the bend and will not mount properly to  the side panel. This PUI piece is also 5/8" longert than the original GM piece.

So what I am looking for (if they exist) is ...

Outer felts that have triangular tabs that can actually be pried up and are spaced properly so that they will fit the slots on the reveal molding......and with "whiskers" that are as thick as original GM pieces.

Inner felts that have the correct width flat stainless steel bead on the top......and the quarter window pieces have the correct undistorted bend and will fit side panel properly.

I'd be willing to buy two different sets if one had the correct inners and the other had the correct outers.


Restoration / Re: Upper A-arm Splash Shields
« on: July 15, 2018, 04:25:17 AM »
I hope this isn't high jacking the thread but it seems pertinent to what is being discussed.

I was wondering how everyone who has installed the splash shields is bending over their staples?

I had bought a set of OER splash shields which were the thin (bicycle tube) rubber. I used them because I didn't realize at the time that there was better stuff out there. I installed them on my inner fenders before the inner fenders went in the car. These OER's were so bad that they started falling apart under their own weight. I saw something on the ground under the car one day and it was pieces of the splash shield. They just split apart at the staples and fell off! And the car hasn't even been driven since the splash shields were installed. There's no engine in it yet. This happened with the car standing still!

So anyhow, I have new ones now that I bought from Metro Rubber which are much more like the originals. Now I have to install them with the inner fenders in the car. Thankfully, there is no engine in the way but much less access to some of the staple locations..........So I'm curious as to how everyone is able to bend the staples over nice and tight and not mar any paint.


Restoration / Re: Headliner recomendation and sun visor question
« on: July 02, 2018, 10:59:55 PM »
For the sunvisors... mine were exactly like yours. The guy installing the headliner just replaced the stitching on the sunvisor without taking it apart.

Did they replace your edge trim?

If they didn't, I am curious how they would re-stitch the visor using the original edge trim. I doubt (but I could be wrong) that someone would hand stitch it putting the needle through the original needle holes.......but if they stitch it on a machine, they couldn't (and again, I could be wrong) match the origninal holes. I would think you would see all of the orignal needle holes and that wouldn't look so good.


Restoration / Headliner recomendation and sun visor question
« on: June 30, 2018, 01:42:53 AM »
I need to purchase a new black headliner for my '68.......I am looking for a manufacturer recommendation and have a sun visor question.

Any recommendations as to what manufacturer is making the most faithful reproduction of the original?........About four years ago, I had sample pieces sent to me by Legendary and TMI. The pattern in the piece from Legendary was not even close. The pattern on the TMI piece was close to the original but the finish was very dull like a matte black. The part of my original headliner that was tucked under and never saw the light of day has a nice sheen to it. Of course, a lot could have changed in four years (for better or worse.) I know PUI also makes them but I don't have a sample from them.

I know all of the major parts suppliers have headliners. Most don't mention the manufacturer and some say "made in USA." Prices range from around $75 to $100 and most include covered sail panel boards and sun visor material.......Then only exception was TMI which Summit carries and that was $129. That included the covered sail panels but made no mention of sun visor material.

When sun visors get recovered, do they re-use the old edge trim that is stitched around the edge.....or do upholstery shops have that stuff on hand?  I don't see where anyone sells it. The material on my original visors is in great shape but the stitching on the edge trim is disintegrating and it is coming loose.


Restoration / Re: 1967 defrost duct mounting picture needed
« on: May 21, 2018, 03:26:28 AM »
Here are pictures of the three defroster duct mounting points in my '68. At the time I took these pictures, I don't believe it had ever been removed from the car before.

Sorry about the huge size of the pictures. You have to scroll left/right to see everything. Since not being able to host pictures on Photobucket, I have been storing them on Team Camaro. When I post on Team Camaro, the picture size is fine. Here on CRG they are too big and I don't know how to fix that.


Originality / Re: Correct starter brace for '68 small block ???
« on: May 18, 2018, 01:05:34 PM »
I wonder how many of those are in the landfills. I have changed starters in several Chevys I have owned over the last 45 years. All of which were used when I bought them. None of the starters I changed had the bracket. It was always left off by whoever preceded me? It's an important item. All the extra cantilevered weight of a starter without the brace hanging there definitely affects its operation. If you do an experiment and compare the sound/operation of the starter with and without the bracket, there is a dramatic difference.
My car never had one either. If it wasn't for the illustration in the AIM, I wouldn't have known it was supposed to be there. It just makes sense that something that heavy should have support at each end.


Originality / Re: Correct starter brace for '68 small block ???
« on: May 18, 2018, 12:41:43 PM »
Looks like it is confirmed.....the one with the hole at each end and not the slot. That's what I will go with.

Thanks for all the replies.


Originality / Re: Correct starter brace for '68 small block ???
« on: May 17, 2018, 01:39:37 AM »
Same brace as what's discussed in THIS THREAD.

This thread seems to rule out the twisted flat bar, but unless I missed it, doesn't say whether it's the other style with holes at both ends or the one with the open ended slot.

Most of the parts catalogs show the one with the open ended slot. HBC seems to be the exception and shows the one with holes at both ends

I should have specified that mine would be for a 12 3/4 153 tooth flywheel.


Originality / Correct starter brace for '68 small block ???
« on: May 17, 2018, 12:35:52 AM »
Can someone tell me which of the starter braces pictured below is correct for a '68 small block. This is the brace that connects the threaded stud on the front of starter to the side of the engine block.

The illustration in the AIM show what looks like a flat bar with 90 degree twist in it. Like in the second picture.

When you look in the parts catalogs they show either of what you see in pictures 3 and 4. A piece of bent angle iron with either a round hole at each end or one with round hole at one end and an open ended slot at the other end.


Restoration / Re: Rust on clutch pressure plate
« on: May 10, 2018, 05:33:12 PM »
Thanks for all the replies and opinions. It seems there' a lot of different ideas on whether to keep it or replace it.

I've decided to go ahead and re-use this clutch for the following reasons.

1) Yesterday, I cut up some rags, laid them on the friction surface, and soaked them with Evaporust. Every few hours, I pulled the rags and went over it with Scotchbrite. By the end of the day, the rust was gone. There is some tiny pitting where some of the rust spots were but no scoring or grooves.

2) Although it was bought in 1984, it doesn't have a lot of miles on it. The car was a fair weather driver for four years, stored for five years, and then saw very, very limited miles until the car was disassembled in 2008.

3) As far as the clutch pedal effort, I've always been fine with it. I like a firm clutch feel.

4) It isn't rusty any other place that the friction surface

5) A situation I'm sure lots are familiar with, I'm on the home stretch of this restoration and so far, have spent over double what I ever thought I would on it....with more to go. Every time another unexpected $100, $200, or $300 goes out the window, it starting to sting! Anytime an old part will still function properly and I can make it look good (looks not an issue with the clutch), I'm trying to reuse it.

When I take the flywheel to have it resurfaced, I'll see if they can do the same on the pressure plate. I'll definitely be getting a new disc though.


Restoration / Re: Rear drum brake backing plate questions.
« on: May 08, 2018, 06:07:34 PM »
I've pretty much made up my mind not to use either of the repro plates with their oversized center holes. My gut tell me it's the wrong thing to do and I've learned in the past not to do something when I have that feeling.

Here are a couple of pictures of my originals. This is after sandblasting and painting. I took the paint off the pads that the brakes shoes sit on so the damage could be seen better. I circled in red the worst of the grooves worn into those pads. It was really hard to capture the grooves in a photo.

It maybe doesn't look like anything serious but I don't have the experience to be sure.

I got an offer from someone over at TC who is going to look through some extra plates they have and send me some if he has ones in better shape than mine.


Restoration / Rust on clutch pressure plate
« on: May 08, 2018, 02:22:46 AM »
When I took my car apart ten years ago, I put the clutch in a box and stored it away. It is a Hays clutch that I bought in the mid 80's. I live in Florida and my storage area doesn't not have AC.

I took it out recently to look at it and found that the Florida humidity had worked it's magic and covered the friction surface of the pressure plate with rust spots.

I went over it with Scotchbrite and that did very little. When you run you hand over the surface, you can feel that the rust spots are raised a little above the surface of the clean metal.

Is there a fix for this that won't screw up the machined friction surface? I'd hate to have to replace the clutch as it worked fine before the car was taken apart.

Also, what a good method for cleaning up the entire unit and the 30 plus years of grime and dust in there.


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