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Messages - DAVEN1256

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Restoration / Re: Upper A-arm Splash Shields
« on: July 15, 2018, 04:25:17 AM »
I hope this isn't high jacking the thread but it seems pertinent to what is being discussed.

I was wondering how everyone who has installed the splash shields is bending over their staples?

I had bought a set of OER splash shields which were the thin (bicycle tube) rubber. I used them because I didn't realize at the time that there was better stuff out there. I installed them on my inner fenders before the inner fenders went in the car. These OER's were so bad that they started falling apart under their own weight. I saw something on the ground under the car one day and it was pieces of the splash shield. They just split apart at the staples and fell off! And the car hasn't even been driven since the splash shields were installed. There's no engine in it yet. This happened with the car standing still!

So anyhow, I have new ones now that I bought from Metro Rubber which are much more like the originals. Now I have to install them with the inner fenders in the car. Thankfully, there is no engine in the way but much less access to some of the staple locations..........So I'm curious as to how everyone is able to bend the staples over nice and tight and not mar any paint.


Restoration / Re: Headliner recomendation and sun visor question
« on: July 02, 2018, 10:59:55 PM »
For the sunvisors... mine were exactly like yours. The guy installing the headliner just replaced the stitching on the sunvisor without taking it apart.

Did they replace your edge trim?

If they didn't, I am curious how they would re-stitch the visor using the original edge trim. I doubt (but I could be wrong) that someone would hand stitch it putting the needle through the original needle holes.......but if they stitch it on a machine, they couldn't (and again, I could be wrong) match the origninal holes. I would think you would see all of the orignal needle holes and that wouldn't look so good.


Restoration / Headliner recomendation and sun visor question
« on: June 30, 2018, 01:42:53 AM »
I need to purchase a new black headliner for my '68.......I am looking for a manufacturer recommendation and have a sun visor question.

Any recommendations as to what manufacturer is making the most faithful reproduction of the original?........About four years ago, I had sample pieces sent to me by Legendary and TMI. The pattern in the piece from Legendary was not even close. The pattern on the TMI piece was close to the original but the finish was very dull like a matte black. The part of my original headliner that was tucked under and never saw the light of day has a nice sheen to it. Of course, a lot could have changed in four years (for better or worse.) I know PUI also makes them but I don't have a sample from them.

I know all of the major parts suppliers have headliners. Most don't mention the manufacturer and some say "made in USA." Prices range from around $75 to $100 and most include covered sail panel boards and sun visor material.......Then only exception was TMI which Summit carries and that was $129. That included the covered sail panels but made no mention of sun visor material.

When sun visors get recovered, do they re-use the old edge trim that is stitched around the edge.....or do upholstery shops have that stuff on hand?  I don't see where anyone sells it. The material on my original visors is in great shape but the stitching on the edge trim is disintegrating and it is coming loose.


Restoration / Re: 1967 defrost duct mounting picture needed
« on: May 21, 2018, 03:26:28 AM »
Here are pictures of the three defroster duct mounting points in my '68. At the time I took these pictures, I don't believe it had ever been removed from the car before.

Sorry about the huge size of the pictures. You have to scroll left/right to see everything. Since not being able to host pictures on Photobucket, I have been storing them on Team Camaro. When I post on Team Camaro, the picture size is fine. Here on CRG they are too big and I don't know how to fix that.


Originality / Re: Correct starter brace for '68 small block ???
« on: May 18, 2018, 01:05:34 PM »
I wonder how many of those are in the landfills. I have changed starters in several Chevys I have owned over the last 45 years. All of which were used when I bought them. None of the starters I changed had the bracket. It was always left off by whoever preceded me? It's an important item. All the extra cantilevered weight of a starter without the brace hanging there definitely affects its operation. If you do an experiment and compare the sound/operation of the starter with and without the bracket, there is a dramatic difference.
My car never had one either. If it wasn't for the illustration in the AIM, I wouldn't have known it was supposed to be there. It just makes sense that something that heavy should have support at each end.


Originality / Re: Correct starter brace for '68 small block ???
« on: May 18, 2018, 12:41:43 PM »
Looks like it is confirmed.....the one with the hole at each end and not the slot. That's what I will go with.

Thanks for all the replies.


Originality / Re: Correct starter brace for '68 small block ???
« on: May 17, 2018, 01:39:37 AM »
Same brace as what's discussed in THIS THREAD.

This thread seems to rule out the twisted flat bar, but unless I missed it, doesn't say whether it's the other style with holes at both ends or the one with the open ended slot.

Most of the parts catalogs show the one with the open ended slot. HBC seems to be the exception and shows the one with holes at both ends

I should have specified that mine would be for a 12 3/4 153 tooth flywheel.


Originality / Correct starter brace for '68 small block ???
« on: May 17, 2018, 12:35:52 AM »
Can someone tell me which of the starter braces pictured below is correct for a '68 small block. This is the brace that connects the threaded stud on the front of starter to the side of the engine block.

The illustration in the AIM show what looks like a flat bar with 90 degree twist in it. Like in the second picture.

When you look in the parts catalogs they show either of what you see in pictures 3 and 4. A piece of bent angle iron with either a round hole at each end or one with round hole at one end and an open ended slot at the other end.


Restoration / Re: Rust on clutch pressure plate
« on: May 10, 2018, 05:33:12 PM »
Thanks for all the replies and opinions. It seems there' a lot of different ideas on whether to keep it or replace it.

I've decided to go ahead and re-use this clutch for the following reasons.

1) Yesterday, I cut up some rags, laid them on the friction surface, and soaked them with Evaporust. Every few hours, I pulled the rags and went over it with Scotchbrite. By the end of the day, the rust was gone. There is some tiny pitting where some of the rust spots were but no scoring or grooves.

2) Although it was bought in 1984, it doesn't have a lot of miles on it. The car was a fair weather driver for four years, stored for five years, and then saw very, very limited miles until the car was disassembled in 2008.

3) As far as the clutch pedal effort, I've always been fine with it. I like a firm clutch feel.

4) It isn't rusty any other place that the friction surface

5) A situation I'm sure lots are familiar with, I'm on the home stretch of this restoration and so far, have spent over double what I ever thought I would on it....with more to go. Every time another unexpected $100, $200, or $300 goes out the window, it starting to sting! Anytime an old part will still function properly and I can make it look good (looks not an issue with the clutch), I'm trying to reuse it.

When I take the flywheel to have it resurfaced, I'll see if they can do the same on the pressure plate. I'll definitely be getting a new disc though.


Restoration / Re: Rear drum brake backing plate questions.
« on: May 08, 2018, 06:07:34 PM »
I've pretty much made up my mind not to use either of the repro plates with their oversized center holes. My gut tell me it's the wrong thing to do and I've learned in the past not to do something when I have that feeling.

Here are a couple of pictures of my originals. This is after sandblasting and painting. I took the paint off the pads that the brakes shoes sit on so the damage could be seen better. I circled in red the worst of the grooves worn into those pads. It was really hard to capture the grooves in a photo.

It maybe doesn't look like anything serious but I don't have the experience to be sure.

I got an offer from someone over at TC who is going to look through some extra plates they have and send me some if he has ones in better shape than mine.


Restoration / Rust on clutch pressure plate
« on: May 08, 2018, 02:22:46 AM »
When I took my car apart ten years ago, I put the clutch in a box and stored it away. It is a Hays clutch that I bought in the mid 80's. I live in Florida and my storage area doesn't not have AC.

I took it out recently to look at it and found that the Florida humidity had worked it's magic and covered the friction surface of the pressure plate with rust spots.

I went over it with Scotchbrite and that did very little. When you run you hand over the surface, you can feel that the rust spots are raised a little above the surface of the clean metal.

Is there a fix for this that won't screw up the machined friction surface? I'd hate to have to replace the clutch as it worked fine before the car was taken apart.

Also, what a good method for cleaning up the entire unit and the 30 plus years of grime and dust in there.


Restoration / Re: Rear drum brake backing plate questions.
« on: May 07, 2018, 04:53:21 PM »
Pea gravel catchers.
Craigslist and Ebay have nothing as far as original GM backing plates. Checking the online inventory of the junkyards in my area for cars that might have used the same plates, most cars are 90's or newer, a few 80's, and 70's cars are almost non-existent.

Here's what worries me about using either of the repros. After you center the backing plate by eyeballing it, it can move a 1/16 of an inch in any direction. I know you are locking it in place by tightening the bolts but I wonder if it could shift after so many applications of the brakes and bumps jarring the rear end.

I have no idea how much clearance there is between the brake shoes and drums when the brakes are not applied but I wonder if one shoe moving closer to the drum and moving away could affect brake performance. I have no idea.


Restoration / Re: Rear drum brake backing plate questions.
« on: May 05, 2018, 05:14:48 PM »
After having had my orignal backing plates sandblasted, the grooves worn into the raised areas (pads) that the brake shoes rest on were pretty clear. I have been told the new shoes can catch in those grooves and their movement can be impaired.

So I bought a new set of Right Stuff Detailing backing plates from Summit. They had issues!....So I tried a set off of Ebay that came from Inline Tube. They too had a couple of issues.

The one issue both brands have in commom is that the large hole in the center that fits over the axle tube is 1/8 inch larger than the original......On the original, there is almost zero clearance between this hole and the lip in the axle tube that it fits over. When the original backing plate is in position, it it centered and can't move.....In the repros, becasue of the oversized hole in the middle and the mounting bolts holes slightly larger than the bolts, the backing plate can wiggle an 1/8 inch back and forth in any direction. You would have to eyeball it to get it centered and then hope the bolts never come loose.
Is this acceptable? Up till now, I've had next to no experience working with these parts. I would think though, that having that backing plate perfectly centered around the axle would be critical to the brake shoes contacting the brake drum properly.

Just wondering what anyone else thinks about this.....if these repro plates are Ok to use or unacceptable.


Restoration / Re: Worn clutch linkage questions
« on: April 24, 2018, 12:36:03 AM »
Thanks for all the replies and suggestions.

I think to the route I'll take right now is to try welding and then shaping/re-drilling. I wasn't sure if anyone had ever successfully done that but now that I know it's been done, I'll give it a try. There's nothing to lose. If it didn't work out, I would get replacements.

When I made the statement in my original post about wanting to keep it GM, it didn't have anything to do with being picky about only using GM parts. It was because almost every time I buy a reproduction part, there's some kind of problem with it. Doesn't look right or doesn't fit right. I'm just looking to avoid that.


Restoration / Worn clutch linkage questions
« on: April 19, 2018, 11:50:11 PM »
The original clutch linkage parts from my '68 small block are showing the wear of 50 years and many, many miles. Both ends of the upper pushrod and the linkage end of the lower adjustable pushrod are worn like you see in the picture below. The picture below is the worst of the three push rod ends. The holes in the clutch pedal and each of the Z bar arms that the push rod ends mate with are all elongated a little bit.

When the pushrods are inserted into their respective holes in the clutch pedal and the Z bar, there is about a 1/16 inch of slop that you can move the pushrod back and forth in the hole.

So my questions are.......

1) When I took this car apart for restoration, there wasn't any problem with the way the clutch operated.  Should I just leave these parts alone and run with them?

2) Replace them with aftermarket parts? I hate swapping aftermarket parts for original GM parts unless it's absolutely necessary. It would be about $80 to replace and although that's not a whole lot, it's another unexpected expense and they start to add up after a while!

3) Is there any way to repair? I don't think there's much you could do with the pushrods. With the clutch pedal and the Z bar, I thought about two things. 1) Weld the holes shut and re-drill them to the right size....or 2) Drill the holes oversized and put a bushing of some sort in there.

I was set to try one of those methods but then realized the Z-bar is hardened steel. I'm not sure if a new hole drilled through the filler weld material would be as tough as the hardened steel it replaced.....and I'm not sure I could even drill through the hardened steel to put a bushing in.

Wondering what the thoughts are on this?


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