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Messages - adjudimo

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1
Garage Talk / Re: Restoring black plastic/vinyl trim
« on: April 20, 2018, 11:41:51 AM »
If you clean those parts very well with Dawn, followed by wax and grease remover, you could paint them with black SEM after using an AP(adhesion promoter). Go to their website or talk to your local jobber that carries it. Not all jobbers know what they are talking about. Any questions, call SEM directly.

Well, I guess I should have thought about the Dawn. That is the only dish detergent my wife has in the house. I guess it slipped my mind since I hadn't used that type product around my vehicles paint for years. I'll have to pick up some wax and grease remover and adhesion promoter. I'll do as you suggest and see how it goes. Thanks Sauron327 and lakeholme, much appreciated!

2
Garage Talk / Re: Restoring black plastic/vinyl trim
« on: April 17, 2018, 10:07:05 PM »
What parts are you talking about specifically? "Plastic" does not apply to all parts. Been in the business for decades and every part requires a different procedure. Some just cannot be saved.
 
I have a 2010 Dodge Ram Sport and the top of the bed rails have a molded protective cover on them from the factory. Also the same thing for all the black portions of the rear step bumper that have this material. On the front underneath between the bumper and the lower front valance there is a black insert representing some type of fake grill. There is a black area between the front and rear windows that needs addressed. All these have turned a lighter grayish color that doesn't stay black for very long after any treatment I've tried. They will darken with some of the dressings such as Mother's Back to Black but it's almost a waste of time. I see where some claim that you can use a heat gun to supposedly make the oils in the material resurface thus restoring the appearance. I'm not going to try this by the way. I bought the truck new in April of 2010 and it has just over 30000 miles on it. I have managed to keep the paint swirl free and the paint looks almost as new as a 2018. It's that darn black that looks, well; shitty for lack of a less frustrated word in my opinion. I've had a couple people tell me to paint these areas, but after all the treatments over the years I doubt that I could get the areas prepped well enough to do this, due to possible silicones involved. Thanks guys.

3
Garage Talk / Restoring black plastic/vinyl trim
« on: April 15, 2018, 12:32:19 AM »
I have tried Meguiar's, Wipe New, Mother's back to black and a few other for black trim. They don't work very well or last very long in my opinion. I don't want to try the heat gun trick. I use 303 on my vinyl roof but I don't know about using it on plastic. So, what tricks do you use to make that black look new again; especially that has some lasting duration over the band aid fixes sold at wally world and other places? I have cleaned with alcohol prior to using the products mentioned above. Thanks.

4
General Discussion / Re: VIN search issue
« on: October 21, 2016, 03:38:22 PM »
I just did a search for my vin on Google, Bing, Yahoo and nothing came up. Spent a few minutes typing the vin in several different ways including vin# plus N, NOR, nor with no spaces between letters/numbers and also spaced befor and after the N. It use to come up. I hadn't tried to do a search for it for quite some time now.

5
Maintenance / Re: New To Me Vinyl Top
« on: September 02, 2016, 11:46:14 PM »
Vince, it should be fine to wash the top with Eagle 1 or Mequiars. But I personally highly recommend using 303 Convertible,  Vinyl Top and Tonneau Cleaner. It is manufactured or at least distributed by Gold Eagle Co. out of Chicago, IL. It was originally engineered for aerospace and aviation applications. 303 claims to protect against UV rays. Just to be clear, the box states NOT FOR FABRIC CONVERTIBLE TOPS (CANVAS) OR UNFINISHED LEATHERS (SUCH AS SUEDE). I use it and would never use anything else. Totally satisfied. But, also; keep in mind that you need to use a pretty soft brush to clean a vinyl top and not try to exert a lot of pressure when doing so. Best to clean it twice or more if it is very dirty or soiled. By the way, I have a 67 with a black vinyl roof. My wife actually found it at walmart.com and they had the lowest price. She ordered the two bottle system. A bottle of their cleaner and a bottle of the protectant all in one package. Do a search for it and see if it might be of interest to you. Hope this helps.
J.R.

6
Maintenance / Re: 14" tires are hard to find these days
« on: June 04, 2016, 02:52:04 PM »
I have 225 70R 14 Uniroyal Tiger Paw GTS radials (Rallye Edition) raised solid white letters on 14" rallys. Sorry, don't remember if their 6 or 7 inches wide. But the tires will rub if you turn it all the way to lock on both the front and rear side on the inner fender/frame. It really never happens though, how often do we actually turn this tight of radius? I just checked it out sometime in the past for the heck of it. I still have a spare 14 rally in storage that I can measure if needed.

7
General Discussion / Re: NOS Sill Plates...come and get'um
« on: March 09, 2016, 06:31:30 AM »
Wonder what a cross ram setup would go for? ::)

8
General Discussion / Re: 69 Camaro's back in the day
« on: March 08, 2016, 08:04:30 PM »
At least it wasn't Camero
I still have the car-sales keytag from my Camaro the day I bought it. Even they spelled it with an "e". Sheesh!
I've noticed that spell check on most computers want to spell it that way too, lol.
At least it wasn't Camero
I still have the car-sales keytag from my Camaro the day I bought it. Even they spelled it with an "e". Sheesh!
I've noticed that spell check on most computers want to spell it that way too, lol.
My phone wants to change it to "Camarillo". What the heck is that?? "Cigars? Cigarettes? Camarillos?"

Dale,

Now that's funny! I haven't heard or thought about that commercial for years. "Cigars? cigarettes? Tiparillos?"



9
General Discussion / Re: Parts??
« on: February 12, 2016, 07:07:11 AM »
you can say that again, Sauron..  :)
I agree. They have been around for all time, but I regrettably feel as though integrity has taken a walk and gotten lost even more these days. But just when it starts getting to you a little; it seems as though you can come to this site and feel that all is not lost. At least that's what my radar seems to lean too. I lurk here a lot more than I write. Just an ole guy thinking!

10
Original Cars and Details / Re: New Section
« on: December 08, 2015, 06:36:10 AM »
I feel as though only information concerning originality should be here. Not so much for the somewhat original builds that is/was someone's understanding or idea of what factory might have been. EXCLUDING the few fine members here who belong to this site and ACTUALLY WAS PART OF THE PROGRAM AND HISTORY of these cars and their development. So many threads have been started asking how this or that was when they left the factory, and then all of a sudden the thread got side tracked or derailed for some reason or another. I think most of the owners history other than the history of parts and their numbers or superceded numbers should be limited. The cars owner history would be better suited possibly in the new portion of car of the month recently started. I don't mean to sound cross with anyone, but we simply don't need another area where everyone gets off track and we loose what this section of the forum is suppose to be all about. Survivors. There's really not that many true survivors, so lets kinda stay with that format so we can actually learn from it and use it as a resource that I feel as though was the intent in the first place. Keep it clean and keep it simple. Just my thoughts on the matter.

11
Maintenance / Re: S & J Engines
« on: October 29, 2015, 01:34:54 PM »
Thanks for the heads up guys. I'm looking into those as well as a couple others. Hopefully will get it all sorted out soon. J.R.

12
Maintenance / S & J Engines
« on: October 19, 2015, 01:10:56 PM »
Has any of you had or know of someone who has purchased a engine from S & J Engines located in Spokane, Washington? I have been on their website and read info, viewed videos and they appear to offer quality work, but you know how that is; especially if you live 300 miles from the east coast.. The reason I ask is my current 396/325 seems to have a lifter noise that will not adjust out and I suspect a possible cam lobe problem. It also has two cylinders falling out of specs with the others on a leak down test. I am trying to weigh out the pros vs cons of buying new instead of overhauling. It's not the original engine. A local machine shop gave me a quote of at least $3000+ with pretty much everything machined, decked, bored, honed and polished while keeping a hydraulic flat tappet cam, lifters. Hyd. roller assembly is a lot more money. One of my concerns is that I want the motor to be more suitable for todays stinking gas. I just put a new 700R4 overdrive trans in and I don't have money to just throw at the car. I still want to stay with a big block, but can't seem to be able to find any other engines locally. We use to have real speed shops here, you know, the shops that sell real racing parts and actually built engines and drivetrains; but the last one finally shut down about 6 or 7 years ago. Need to do it right, but as cost effective as possible. Found a 1972 454 with a whopping 210 hp, but probably needs gone through. Any info on S&J or other much appreciated. thanks. If you wish you can also PM me.

13
Did you notice the amount of tool boxes in the garage? It either took all these to create this masterpiece, OR it will take this many tool boxes to get it back toward or close to original. And Yea, 'Angel Dust' with a side of 'Shroooms'
J.R.

14
Darrell, 

Thanks for the info. I am going to get away from the 4.10 gears, at least for a while. Leaning toward the 3.42's. I'll more than likely swap out the intake and put the cast iron in storage. The picture you posted is what I am after. Clean and simple. I'm not really one for all the bling. Always preferred the stock and day 2 approach.

ko-lek-tor

I'll be ordering either a Weiand or Edelbrock intake. I'll probably get another Holley carb as well. I really have no experience with Edelbrock carbs, even though they are probably very descent. I have done searches for QJ's, but it seems as though you need a core to send in or one to rebuild. I just want to buy a nice carb and get on with the gear change. Now I know that there are several opinions and I have used the search engine and read on it but, what are you guys thoughts on one more item that I wish to address? What brand and type of OD trans do you recommend. I have to stay away from the higher stall speed torque converters due to a neck injury my wife has to live with, so that needs to be taken into account. I really would like to have at least what most call a stage two build; since they are supposedly built with better components and handle more torque, etc. Thoughts?

As always, I thank you guys and gals.

15
ko-lek-tor,
 I wouldn't mind a boost in power, but mainly I would like drivability. I currently have 4:10 gears with a T-350 that someone along the line stuck in the car and gas millage is awful. Little over 3000 rpm at around 50mph'ish.  After I get the carb/intake part ironed out, I will try to figure out which overdrive trans to purchase and stick in to help with drivability and gas millage. At my stage in life, I would rather have a car that I can enjoy/cruise/take places; instead of hopping around short distances around town from time to time. My current intake it seems is a midrise cast unit and with the 3 inch open air cleaner on top the 4175, the top front of the air filter lid has cut into the hood insulation. I rather like the look of an aluminum intake instead of the painted cast; personal taste. I have read that the C396 intake would be a good choice but haven't seen one listed for sell. I would even like to go with an electric choke if I could. I like Holley as well, just not the one I have. Everything I read tells me that I would get better millage from a QJ carb. So with all this, which really isn't much; I was seeking you guys knowledge and thoughts be-for I proceed. Some of you guys has forgot more about this stuff than many of us ever knew!

L78 steve
I will research the 069 and 163 intakes, because I am not familiar with them. Might be silly question, but what brand, edelbrock, holley, GM?

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