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Messages - L78 steve

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General Discussion / Re: 69 Body Sag
« on: August 24, 2018, 05:20:07 PM »
Usually if the springs aren't clocked correctly they will rub where they pass through the frame.

General Discussion / Re: 69 Body Sag
« on: August 23, 2018, 05:13:39 PM »
Its probably body twist. I had a 74 Z28 that was driven into a ditch and it twisted the body. No panel damage or gap issues just the height issue as you state.

General Discussion / Re: Oil pressure at idle
« on: May 06, 2018, 02:37:28 PM »
Just to be safe keep an eye on the pressure. If it drops any from where it is then a recheck is in order. Do you have the bearing clearances from the re-builder?

Restoration / Re: 1178 Crank Question
« on: March 16, 2018, 01:55:27 AM »
Thump the flange end of crankshaft on a concrete floor. It will have a distinct sound if its cracked. Your crank shop should know this.

Maintenance / Re: Coil Issues
« on: March 11, 2018, 09:02:47 PM »
Its probably the coil. If you test a stock dist. with points on a Sun machine the points will start to bounce at around 4500rpm.
This causes a weak waste spark ATDC and a weak coil cannot recover from this.
With a strong coil this waste spark has no effect on performance.
This can be clearly seen on the Sun Dist. scope.

General Discussion / 619 BB Fan Shroud
« on: March 11, 2018, 08:50:43 PM »
Any ideas on how to safely remove the 3 vertical bars on the top of the shroud.
The NOS 619's have these bars the originals do not.
I'm told William may know how to do this.

Originality / Re: 1969 muncie 4spd id tag
« on: March 08, 2018, 12:16:10 AM »
Does anyone know if the transmission id tag is different from one gear ratio to the next?Because with the different gear ratios the speedo gears would be different. Need to find out what the id tag would be for a z/28 m20 with a BV410 rear. Does anyone have a z with this combo that still has there original id tag? Also do I need a speed reducer? thanks John

I had this combo and it would not use the reducer. It would the 797 tag with the natural colored or yellow 24 tooth 3860347 driven gear.

Originality / Re: 1969 muncie 4spd id tag
« on: March 07, 2018, 11:49:46 PM »
The reason the tag numbers are different for the solid lifter engines is the deeper rear axles. They required the small speedo DRIVE gear.

Originality / Re: 1969 muncie 4spd id tag
« on: March 07, 2018, 03:06:56 AM »
I believe The above tag numbers go for Z28 and L78.

General Discussion / Re: Just bored and wondering ?
« on: December 15, 2017, 08:16:36 PM »
I could have purchased the original L78 short block for my 70 Nova. I traced the car back a couple owners and it was a speed shop that had it.
Since they knew I had the car they put a premium price on it. Problem is they decked the numbers off and I couldn't justify the price tag without the numbers. Plus the top end was gone, Heads, intake, dist. and carb.
Only info I got out of it was the Cast date which was unusually early.
So I'm sure there are other orphan blocks that will never make it to the list due to machining.

Originality / Re: 1967 RS/SS black paint on rear tail light panel.
« on: December 13, 2017, 12:42:24 AM »
When this procedure was taped out at the factory it was done fast. So to reproduce correctly do it fast with little care of how it turns out.

Restoration / Re: Norwood stickers
« on: December 01, 2017, 03:22:07 PM »
Just because they are next door doesn't mean it will be done as the factory did it. You have to decide if you want it done right or just installed.
The most skill and patiance is in removing the old quarters without cutting into other parts such as the brace supports.
Body shops are all about just getting it done and move on.

Maintenance / Re: Hot resistance wire
« on: September 12, 2017, 04:21:52 PM »
Key on, points open, not a problem. Key on, points closed (making contact) makes the + wire hot.

Maintenance / Re: Vacuum Noise
« on: September 07, 2017, 03:36:16 PM »
If its coming from inside the venturi area it OK. The engine is pulling air and fuel through the carb circuits.

Maintenance / Re: Vapor lock?
« on: June 27, 2017, 05:21:46 PM »
I could try and Advance the timing a bit, right now I believe I'm eight degrees before top dead center on the marker... but it could be less than that I would have to check again

How far Advanced would you suggest I go?

Go with 36 degrees total. Disconnect and plug  Vac. advance before setting total then reconnect.

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