Messages

1

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Head casting numbers?

« on: August 21, 2007, 06:02:07 PM »

The casting numbers are 3973370, small valve replacement heads.

2

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Head casting numbers?

« on: August 19, 2007, 09:59:10 PM »

The 388 block is more of a mid year than late year block.

The car is a late production car by the numbers and I know by the vin, cowl tag info and the POP which I was lucky enough to get was built with a 307, PG, non posi 10 bolt. I'm just trying to figure out what the 350 engine that is in it now was built with.

Thanks for the pic John.

3

Decoding/Numbers / Head casting numbers?

« on: August 19, 2007, 05:48:47 AM »

I have a 69 with a 350 which is not original to the car. So far I know the block casting number 3932388 could have been in a late production 69 Camaro. The intake manifold is 346250 GM 4 which is for a 76-83 305/ 350 next is the heads, where do I find the head casting numbers, under the valve covers?

4

General Discussion / Re: Chevrolet Dealer Technical Service Bulletins for 1969

« on: August 14, 2007, 05:05:54 AM »

Wow that's a very cool find Richard, thank you very much for the information. I read the hot starter SB with quite some interest as my 69 350 does this. Mine is a late 69 production so I would assume that it was built with the 1108420 starter as the SB is dated late 68. Makes me wonder if there wasn't another SB to come out at a later date replacing this one.

5

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Where to find RPO codes?

« on: July 05, 2007, 04:17:30 AM »

Wow, a friend of mine has a car with the same paint and interior codes, built 01A. It also is a 307 PG. The car is red now though.

John

This is what it looks like.

6

Maintenance / Which plugs and wires?

« on: July 03, 2007, 02:17:19 PM »

I just finished changing my 69 350 from a points type distributor to a Mallory Unilite HEI distributor and coil. Which plugs gapped at what gap works the best and which wires should I use? The plugs were A/C R44S if that helps. Thanks

7

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Where to find RPO codes?

« on: June 30, 2007, 05:08:25 AM »

Thank you gentlemen. I'm new to the 1st gen world but I'm catching on slowly but surely. Should have done this along time ago, this car ia alot of fun to drive.

8

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Where to find RPO codes?

« on: June 30, 2007, 12:52:07 AM »

Not the best pic but I think you should be able to read it anyway. You can click on the pic to enlarge it or the tag reads as follows. Does this look like a cowl tag that would be original to this car? Thanks for your help.

ST69 12437 NOR 124851 BDY
TR   715        53   50      PNT
     09C          X11

9

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Where to find RPO codes?

« on: June 29, 2007, 05:14:06 PM »

Can you post or email me a pic of the cowl tag? I should be able to tell if it matches....

I've got to take some pics of the distributor this evening and I'll try to get a good pic of the cowl tag and post it. Thanks

10

Maintenance / Re: Need help with Mallory Unilite HEI distributor install.

« on: June 29, 2007, 03:42:18 AM »

It is the white cloth covered wire with purple & orange tracers through it that goes from the fuse panel to the coil. If your harness has not been modified it will also be attached to the yellow wire going down to the starter. It is show in the AIM under the engine compartment wiring.......RatPack.........

There are two primary circuit wires from the ignition switch that connect to the + terminal of the coil; one wire for applying a full 12 volts for starting and a second "resistance" wire which reduces the voltage to the primary side of the coil when the engine is running.  The wires to the distributor and the tach lead (if you have a tach) connect to the negative (-) terminal of the coil.

When the ignition switch is in the start position, the ballast resistance (or resistance wire) is not in the circuit, and a full 12 volts is applied to the primary winding of the coil for starting.  After the engine starts and the ignition switch is in the "on"  or "run" position, the ballast resistance wire is now in the circuit and the other wire is not.  The ballast resistance drops the voltage from 12 to somewhere around 7-9 volts, enough for running while saving wear by reducing arcing across the points in the distributor.

Attached pic is typical.  It shows a ballast resistor in the "start" circuit.  Sometimes GM used a ballast resistor and in other applications GM used a special resistance wire of a given length to create the required resistance to drop the voltage from 12 to 9 or so.  Not sure of other years, but my '69 RS has the resistance wire which is easily identified by the cloth like material that covers the OD of the wire as described above.

For my ride, I converted the orignal distributor to electronic via the Pertronix unit - so I didn't have to worry about egine to firewall clearance issues.  Some previous posts on this forum have discussed various HEI distributors that were too big to fit without using the "beat to fit, paint to match" approach on the firewall to get enough clearance.  Just FYI.

Thanks Rich that's some good info. I found the resistance wire wrapped in some form of white cloth attached to the + terminal of the coil as stated above and the other wire also. After I finish installing the Mallory unit I intend to send my points distributor in and have it modified to HEI. I think I'm pretty lucky, so far my car has been pretty close to stock in all aspects, seems to make things alot easier on me.

11

Mild Modifications / Re: Request experience

« on: June 28, 2007, 06:53:23 PM »

Believe it or not that's what prompted my question to the group - I ran across that the other day and freaked out! I had assumed that everything would be ok, (the 69 350 would bolt in) but when I read that I got worried. I have done some looking and no one seems to have a specific engine mount adapater to handle this exact issue and I haven't been able to confirm what I read on the camaro web. That is the only reference I have found to this particular issue that contradicts what others think.


Thanks for you feedback and advice:
Wykoff & Hotrod - I appreciate it.

Wish I could be of more help but I'm no Camaro expert by any means. According to the CRG you are going to need engine mounts to fit the 350. maybe someone else who has more knowledge than I will chime in here.

12

Maintenance / Re: Need help with Mallory Unilite HEI distributor install.

« on: June 28, 2007, 05:02:33 PM »

It is the white cloth covered wire with purple & orange tracers through it that goes from the fuse panel to the coil. If your harness has not been modified it will also be attached to the yellow wire going down to the starter. It is show in the AIM under the engine compartment wiring.......RatPack.........

Thank you RatPack, I'll have to check the AIM when I get home this evening.

13

Maintenance / Need help with Mallory Unilite HEI distributor install.

« on: June 28, 2007, 04:53:55 AM »

I bought a Mallory Unilite HEI distributor to replace the points distributor in my 69 350. The first warning in the installation instructions says "Before installing the Unilite distributor make sure that your vehicle is equipped with an ignition ballast resistor (or loom resistance wire) in the wire between the ignition switch and the coil (+) terminal. Check a service manual for your vehicle to locate the ignition ballast resistor ( or loom resistance wire)." I looked in my 1969 Chevrolet Chasis Service Manual and could not find a reference to the resistor anywhere, I probably missed it. Can anybody tell me if the 69's had such a beast and how do i locate it if it does? Thanks

14

Mild Modifications / Re: Request experience

« on: June 28, 2007, 03:21:46 AM »

I had a 383 built for my 327/210 car. I'm trying to get all my little ducks in row before I tear into this project and would appreciate any and all feedback you can offer.

?1 - I'm 98.9% sure the 69 350 block will bolt in without any weirdness to where my 327 bolts down is this correct?
           - If not - what must I do?

?7 - Since I'm going to be starting this soon (like next weekend) I would like to leave #7 open for more questions I'm sure are going to pop up

Thank you in advance!
Ivan

Ivan I just read this and thought it might pertain to what your doing, taken from here http://www.camaros.org/engine.shtml#ReplacementEngines

Q: [23-Dec-1998] Correction: Do all V8 1967-69 Camaros use the same engine mounts and engine mount (frame) brackets?

A: No. Let's start with small-block Chevy (SBC) V8s. All '67-'68 SBC and '69 307ci and 327ci engines used the same engine mount bracket (approximately 2-1/2 inches wide). The 1969 302ci and 350ci engines used a shorter (~3/8 inch) and narrower (~1/4 inch) bracket. (The engine mount relationships for these brackets are best described in the table below rather than in text.) Note that, unfortunately, 1967-68 engine mounts will assemble to the 1969 302/350 engine mount bracket, but this is an incorrect assembly that results in driveline vibration and clutch chatter because the engine sits too low and can move on the bracket."

"

15

Mild Modifications / Re: Request experience

« on: June 27, 2007, 04:45:36 PM »

Hello everyone, I haven't been on in a few just finished my masters and now I can focus on my car again. As a graduation present I had a 383 built for my 327/210 car. I'm trying to get all my little ducks in row before I tear into this project and would appreciate any and all feedback you can offer.

?1 - I'm 98.9% sure the 69 350 block will bolt in without any weirdness to where my 327 bolts down is this correct?
           - If not - what must I do?

?2 - I'm pulling the glide and shipping it off to be 6 million dollar manned - bigger stronger all that happiness. I have never removed an engine or transmission so any tips anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated. Like do I just unbolt the tranny from the block?? etc...

?3 - I'm replacing the heater core on the non/ac car with a new one from Summit (since I'm getting a new radiator & motor) - Never torn into a heater box either - any tips?

?4 - Also completely re-wiring the car with a new painless wiring harness and the add on harness for my RS options - any thoughts/tips/hints/prayers for this evolution?

?5 - How in the world do you determine what speed TQ convertor you need?? I've read all kinds of craziness and I know I just have to call a few manufacturers but I want to understand myself.

?6 - Any service or maintenance you would suggest while I have the car torn apart that I can do that will be preventative in nature? driveshaft, rear end? springs, shocks?

?7 - Since I'm going to be starting this soon (like next weekend) I would like to leave #7 open for more questions I'm sure are going to pop up

Thank you in advance!
Ivan

#2-Theres quite a bit more to pulling a tranny than just unbolting it. First disconnect the battery negative lead. Probably want to drain the pan. Make sure the shift lever, neutral safety switch linkage, kick down cable, oil cooler lines and everything else is disconnected and loose. Disconnect and remove the driveshaft. You'll want to support the engine with a jack to keep it from tilting back and shoving the distributor into the firewall. You'll have to remove the tranny crossmember. If you have stock exhaust you'll have to disconnect the exhaust system to allow enough room for the tranny to be lowered down. Remove the 3 bolts and nuts that hold the convertor to the flywheel. Might be a good idea to loosen the top 3 bolts that attach the tranny to the rear of the engine while the tranny is still supported by the crossmember.