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Messages - JoeC

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General Discussion / Re: Yenko Camaro
« on: August 18, 2017, 03:11:43 PM »
I believe that so called Yenko prototype was restored and "researched" by Jim B from CARS who also made 1969 Yenko and 427 COPO replicas and also had legal issues with at least one of the Camaros seized by the sheriff and sold at auction

General Discussion / Re: BB 69 396 L34 Carb 7029215
« on: May 03, 2017, 11:41:05 AM »
does it have the plastic choke fast idle cam lever?
I see the plastic lever on original assembly line Q-jets but replacement carbs have a metal lever.

General Discussion / Re: Muncie Handle on Hurst
« on: April 26, 2017, 01:24:54 PM »
the 5284 mount plate  is the large flat plate design that Hurst used on many floor shift conversion kits 3sp and 4sp where the trans does not have the threaded holes to bolt on a small mount plate

They designed it to fit the new 1967 Camaro with Muncie or Saginaw trans and fit console and non console cars.

It is also used on some Novas.  It works OK so they never changed it to the small mount plate design like the 69 Camaro and others use.

some don't like the 5284 because it changes the drive shaft pinion angle slightly

On my 67 Camaro , I made an aluminum plate like was used on early Chevelle Hurst kits. I made it to match the shifter location of the 5284 mount plate but bolts on to the trans

attached some pics of a Muncie stick conversion
the middle stick is an early Hurst 4106 with large Hurst letters
a modern 4106 is the same shape but has smaller letters

General Discussion / Re: Muncie Handle on Hurst
« on: April 25, 2017, 04:34:07 PM »
I have been buying from them for years with no problem
That's where I bought the silver replacement parts

they sell a shifter with no stick on ebay

Their "classic" shifter is not really 67-68 correct because the original 4106 stick had large HURST letters
the one they show looks to have the modern smaller HURST letters

General Discussion / Re: Muncie Handle on Hurst
« on: April 25, 2017, 04:07:51 PM »
I did a bunch of them where I cut off the original Muncie chrome stick and I cut it and drill it and bend to match the Hurst 4106 stick . The 4106 is the correct Hurst stick for 67 68 Camaro.

I have not been doing them lately because they got expensive to do.

If you buy an original Muncie shifter even in rough shape is about $50 (or more) , then do the machine work (about 1 hr) , then new chrome $50 to $100 , Will be at least $150 to do one with new chrome. With used good chrome can maybe do it for $100 but a used Muncie shifter with good chrome will cost more.

You can still buy the old silver cad Hurst shifter parts to build one

General Discussion / Re: Shifter adjustment Help
« on: April 22, 2017, 03:00:12 PM »
rod length  will not change the travel length

the length of the trans lever will

could be something wrong inside your shifter

hard to say but I have seen broken levers inside the shifter

can you post pics showing the problem ?

General Discussion / new ‘Khamaroski’ Russian Camaro
« on: April 22, 2017, 02:53:17 PM »

new ‘Khamaroski’ Russian Camaro

this was posted on April 1st - kind of funny

looks like an old school VW Bug conversion?

General Discussion / Re: Shifter adjustment Help
« on: April 19, 2017, 02:16:35 PM »
do you have the rod in the correct hole on the trans reverse lever ?
there are two holes and the lower hole is for the trans lockout rod

its funny to see a 69 Camaro on an off road driving excursion

 looks like they sped up the film a little in production

I don't think that lever modification on that homebuilt blog will work very well as I don't think they will hold up.

The Hurst levers are heat treated to make the slots more durable and even then, after many years of use, the slots can get pretty worn and out of shape.

Hurst did not use shorter levers on their short throw Street Super Shifter or on the competition Super Shifter.
They used the HD trans levers - same length as the standard levers. They used straight rods and a HD mount plate that located the shifter body up higher to allow use of the straight rods.  The High mounted Super Shifter body used an 8 in chrome lever. The travel of the 8in chrome lever vs the 12in Camaro lever gave the shorter throws

I have built custom shifter sticks before by cutting and welding the stick to get the correct offset.

If you don't have welding equipment, you may be able to make the custom stick out of cardboard to get the fit and length correct then have it duplicated using the steel stick

A round stick can be heated and bent but you probably don't want to do that with an original round chrome stick

Also check the Hurst catalog , they have many sticks listed with drawings and dimensions

General Discussion / Re: Fake 1969 Camaro Indy Pace Car Alert
« on: January 03, 2017, 01:02:30 PM »
good detective work !

Originality / Re: Muncie Shifter Assembly
« on: January 02, 2017, 04:27:09 PM »
I think you mean Muncie and Saginaw not Muncie and T10 ?

I looked at some I have for Camaro and Chevelle and the shifter stabilizer bars look to have been black but I would not be surprised if they were black gray or silver. I don't know if GM held the plating requirement so tight that they didn't allow a wide tolerance.

I know with 69 rods have seen the forward rods silver and the Rev rod black on same set of rods

General Discussion / Re: Cowl Plenum VS. Cowl Induction Air Cleaner Systems
« on: December 28, 2016, 05:02:01 AM »
Cowl Plenum and Cowl Induction Air Cleaner Systems use the high pressure area at the windshield to provide a very small "supercharger" effect but more then that is the effect of air temperature.
Cooler intake air makes more power.
Chevy used cool air intake systems on many cars and trucks in the 1980s with the Q-jet 4BB and other induction systems. It was just an air hose from the grill to the air cleaner but it works.

here is some info found online I thought was pretty good.........

Air scoops of various kinds are a common feature on cars with performance pretensions. Many scoops are purely cosmetic, but those that aren’t typically serve one or more of the following functions:


Burning fuel requires oxygen. Unless an engine carries its own oxygen supply (as with a rocket engine), that oxygen must come from the surrounding air. The amount of oxygen available to burn — and thus the engine’s maximum power output — depends on ambient temperature and local static atmospheric pressure. As a rule, cooler, denser air will yield more power while warmer, thinner air (such as on a hot day or at high altitudes) yields less.

The engine compartment of the average automobile tends to be very warm indeed. The normal operating temperature of the typical water-cooled passenger car engine is well above 160 degrees Fahrenheit (71°C) and an air-cooled engine may be considerably hotter. The heat radiated by a running engine quickly heats the air around it. Since most automotive engine compartments are enclosed and rather cramped, with few opportunities for the heat to escape, the air in the engine compartment is usually significantly hotter than the outside air. If the engine draws its intake air from under the hood, the high temperatures will reduce the density of the intake charge and thus reduce the engine’s net power output.

An obvious solution to this problem is to add a cold air intake channel that allows the engine to draw its intake air from the cooler, denser air outside the engine compartment. An effective cold air system can counteract much of the power loss caused by high under-hood temperatures, potentially improving engine output by 5% or more.

Simply cutting a hole in the hood does not a functional cold air scoop make. To be effective, a cold air intake (a) must be located in a high-pressure area of the hood; (b) must be designed in such a way that it actually allows outside air to pass through the inlet; and (c) must have a tightly sealed connection to the air cleaner and intake manifold so that the engine will breathe through the scoop rather than drawing some of its air from under the hood. The distance from the scoop to the air cleaner must also be as short as possible — the greater the distance the incoming air has to travel, the hotter it will get, both through friction and through absorbing engine compartment heat. A poorly designed or badly placed cold air scoop can be worse than useless, costing power by restricting the flow of engine air.

General Discussion / Re: JohnZ, say it ain't so?
« on: December 19, 2016, 03:55:59 PM »
John, thanks for all your help

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