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Messages - myblue67

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1
Maintenance / Re: Hot resistance wire
« on: September 12, 2017, 11:53:19 PM »
Thanks Steve, makes sense but seems a bit risky way to design a circuit. Seems like a a fuse or breaker should kill it before it catches the car on fire.

2
Maintenance / Re: Hot start, electrical issues.
« on: September 11, 2017, 11:03:43 PM »
In the for what it's worth column I changed the starter and selonoid and problem fixed. Took the old starter apart and found the brushes were disintegrated and looked like a rats nest of wire. Amazing that it worked periodically. Also solved my " torque converter cavitation " sound on start-up....previous post. Must have been the starter brushes rattling around as it was falling apart.

3
Maintenance / Hot resistance wire
« on: September 11, 2017, 10:46:37 PM »
So tuning up car after new points etc and engine died. Was doing other things and forgot to turn key off for maybe 5 minutes when I noticed wiring harness melting... Damn I said! The resistance wire was super hot? I know what it's supposed to do but wouldn't think it would get that hot no matter how long key left on. Any thoughts?

4
Maintenance / Brake pedal return spring
« on: July 12, 2017, 12:40:54 AM »
So I've been trying to track down some front brake lock up issues. Thought I'd fixed after replacing the master cylinder couple months ago....but problem returned. Anyway pulled front seat to get a good look at the brake pedal assembly to insure no preload issues starting with the pedal assembly (note this was front disc brake conversion) and noted a spring hanging down from the pedal assembly. UPC 5 A3 page 77 shows this spring. So 2 questions. First is the spring required with power discs.? ..pedal seems to return just fine, and Second is the extension I see in the drawing a different part or part of the pedal arm? I don't have anything to attached the spring to if I wanted to.

Thanks in advance,

5
Maintenance / Re: 69 RF brake lock up?
« on: July 12, 2017, 12:24:41 AM »
Did you reach any conclusions? Similar problem. A new master cylinder fixed the problem for about three months...now returned. Hard to believe it is a MC again.

6
Maintenance / Re: Hot start, electrical issues.
« on: July 12, 2017, 12:10:31 AM »
Thanks Mike, bc69, and Gabby. Yes the problem returned. Crap. Starts right away when jumped. But gonna go through the starting circuit and check connections. ...and probably change the solenoid too. If anyone has a manufacture recommendation Ill take it. Beginning to think it is all re-manufactured junk anymore.

Bad mood day... Got some crap brake parts from "The Right Stuff" what a joke.

Thanks again.

7
Maintenance / Re: Hot start, electrical issues.
« on: April 21, 2017, 12:42:55 AM »
Just thought I would document that after checking a dozen suggestions, I simply noted that the draw on the battery was significant on initial start. The battery was only charging back to about 60% capacity and proved that it was in those cases when I would turn the key and get nothing.  No more cheap Duralast stuff. Bought a real battery from NAPA. No problems hot or cold for last couple months.

8
Maintenance / Re: Console Temp Guage won't go off Cold
« on: April 20, 2017, 01:39:15 PM »
 Had similar problem that impacted gas gauge as well. Found out the front face of the gauge assembly wasn't mounted tightly to the console (small screws). Discovered by tapping on the face of the gauge and kind of jostling around. Apparently this completes the ground. Just something to check.

9
Maintenance / Torque convertor cavitation?
« on: April 20, 2017, 01:29:57 PM »
 Been trying to ID a cavitation type sound for several weeks, actually going back to last fall. Sounds like coming from torque converter, but only for a few seconds on start-up. No operational problems and level appears to be good. I do have a small leak at the radiator connection (maybe a drop or two over night), but again I checked level and was not even close to the "add pt" mark. Thoughts, experience?  PG transmission in an L48.

10
Maintenance / Re: Starting problems
« on: March 21, 2017, 11:56:22 PM »
BTW, thank for responding. As you might guess the car has started fine since late last fall and over the winter, but....just drove the car this past ( warm weekend, pulled up in front of garage. Went back out about 15 minutes later to pull in and nothing....waited about 2 hours and started right up. Pisses me off that put so much money and work into this car and afraid to drive it. Sounds like many things to check.

11
Maintenance / Hot start, electrical issues.
« on: September 25, 2016, 12:00:45 AM »
1967 RS/SS, all of a sudden having stating issues when hot. Turn the key and nothing, absolutely nothing, no noises, smells, etc... Turn the key a few times and get ignition. Funny cause I had similar problems about 40 years ago with my first camaro and never figured it out. Where to start? Neutral safety switch, ignition switch, a relay, battery ground to firewall?



12
Maintenance / Re: Q jet inlet fitting leak
« on: August 22, 2016, 10:40:35 AM »
Thanks for the feedback. I guess I better check to see if the inlet is already cracked on the bottom side.

13
Maintenance / Q jet inlet fitting leak
« on: August 22, 2016, 01:37:09 AM »
I continually have  leaks around the fuel inlet fitting. Carb has been rebuilt. Threads are good and using a new 5/16 x 7/8 fitting. Carb runs great but can't seem to keep it from leaking. Any tricks?Question....

Was a 5/16 fuel line standard on early 67 L48. w Qjet by Carter? Non OEM fuel pump has a 3/8 outlet With an reducer. Just curious if issue originates at the fuel pump.
.

14
Restoration / Re: Pinion yolk 10 bolt vs 12 bolt
« on: August 21, 2016, 11:26:53 PM »
BTw! Thanks for the responses, installed and feeling whole again.

15
Restoration / Pinion yolk 10 bolt vs 12 bolt
« on: May 21, 2016, 09:59:55 PM »
Ok, finally installing OEM  (PI 1205G) 12 bolt with single hole radius rod bracket in my L48. The original has been missing since car was purchased in 1984, a 10 bolt had been install in in its place. Just noticed the pinion yolk U bolt holes are fractionally farther apart on the 12 vs. the 10. I'd rather get some real advice via this forum vs asking parts supply house on how to mitigate this problem. The 12 yolk also looks a little longer. My first intuition is the 12 bolt yoke is not original, so keeping that in mind, should a OEM 12 bolt, be a direct bolt up to a 10 bolt universal and drive shaft?

Thanks in advance,

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