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Messages - Dave69x33

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Originality / Re: Who sells the correct '69 Z air cleaner decals?
« on: April 12, 2015, 02:24:11 AM »
Sorry for my miss info on Eaton Detroit Springs. Not sure where I got that info.  At least they have the prints to make springs.  Who made springs for GM?

BTW, I called them and the person I spoke with had no clue about the correct loc of the spring tags, or spring color codes. I asked about what the print specs required but did not get a supportive response.

Do you have contacts at Eaton who would look up this print info?


Update: Just received the correct "BM" code rear leaf spring decals for a '69 Z28 from ECS Automotive Concepts,, 636-536-2221, with the silver background and black lettering. 

Related question:  Where on the leaf spring was this decal originally placed?  I placed the last decal set I had just behind the front eyelet but the ECS website recommends they be located 16" - 18" down from the rear eyelet.  Can anyone confirm the location or locations considered common and correct for the decal?  Eaton Detroit Sping, Inc., one of the original OEMs to GM for leaf and coil springs, may be a resouce I'll also check for info on decal placement.

P.s. ESC's Rust Prevention Magic (RPM) product works great!

Restoration / Re: Fender Skirt Splash Apron Kit
« on: March 27, 2015, 10:12:13 PM »
You can purchase the staple in a kit, precut and pre-bent read to install.  If you are drilling repro fender wells for staples, drill one of the holes, insert the staple and make a mark where to drill the second worked for me.

Restoration / Re: Fender Skirt Splash Apron Kit
« on: March 27, 2015, 03:38:28 PM »
Note, the splash apron rubber pieces were originally stapled to the inner fender wells.  As JohnZ pointed out, be sure to purchase a copy of the assembly manual as it will show you exactly where and about how many staples to use.  Itís not easy to hold the two pieces together and drill thru them to install the staples, and to fold the staples back to as they were done originally with the specialized staplers used at the factory, but take your time and your can get nice looking results.  If you are restoring your original inner fender wells, then you will have the staple holes in place to use as a guide.

Good luck with your project!

Restoration / Re: Cadmium vs. Zinc Plating
« on: March 27, 2015, 03:30:51 PM »
Steve at Brake Boosters just received my original brake booster, proportioning valve bracket, and master cylinder lid for the Zink Dichromate (Gold Iridite) plating, and my original front disc brake back plate spatter shields for Clear Zinc silver plating.  I was impressed that he calls you when he receives your shipment to discuss your parts and to ask you specific questions to verify exactly the work you want done.  He has been in this restoration business for a long time and knows what to look for and how to properly prep your parts before plating.  I was concerned about the prep as I had to sand and polish pits from the front cover of the brake booster and the PV bracket.  He will glass bead blast the polish parts so they do not have an incorrect mirror finish once they are plated.

Steve will sand and polish your pitted parts for an additional labor charge which may be worth it.  If you do not have experience with sanding and polish pits from parts, there is a bit of skilled and proper tools needed to prevent from damaging your original parts.  The process can also be labor intensive.

I'll post pics once I get the parts back.

Jerry MacNeish also does great work restoring these brake system componets.


Originality / Rear Axle Code Brake Drum Decals
« on: March 26, 2015, 04:04:02 PM »
Can anyone confirm if rear axle gear ratio decals placed on the face of the brake drums were common, and if the decal was red or black letters on a white background?

If anyone has original decals still intact on their drums, a picture would be great.

Also, was there not a practice of writing the code with a paint pin or grease pin on the bottom side of the differential when the axle was positioned upside down in the rack at the axle fab plant?


Originality / Re: 1969 Z/28 motor mounts
« on: June 07, 2013, 08:46:35 PM »

Good question and a good point about motor mount safety.  I drive my car and occasionally really run thru the keep the carbon cleared out!!!  I used new locking style motor mounts and will take a hit on show points in necessary.  This will only matter if/when I take my car back to a national Camaro event where I could get it judged again.  PS: My car scored 973/1000 or Gold at the Camaro Nationals back in 2000, and no issues were raised regarding the motor mounts during judging at that time.

If I had a very rare, numbers matching "museum piece" and aiming for a 1000 point show car that was only unloaded from a trailer and driven to a show spot, then I would make every attempt to find NOS, very clean original, or very accurate reproduction non-locking motor mounts.  Remember, the rubber in NOS or clean original motor mounts will have deteriorated and may not be safe for driving the car frequently.

Just my opinion on this.  I respect all Camaro owners for what they use their cars for.  But if we intend to drive them, and drive them hard, please think safety...and don't put any extra "bulges" in your beautifully finished hood!


Originality / Re: 1969 Z/28 motor mounts
« on: June 07, 2013, 03:49:22 PM »
I ran across this discussion and referred back to my Jerry MacNeish fact books.  I have edition #1 and edition #4.  The motor mount part number was corrected since edition #1 from 3990519 to 3990918. Sorry for the confusion.

I dug up the 35 mm pictures I took of the components during my restoration (I restored my '69Z from 1995 - 2000 and did not have a digital camera back then).  I took digital pictures of my printed 35 mm pictures of the engine frame mounts 3945507 and 5508.  The part numbers are stamped in to the mounts and best seen after the mounts were clean from sand blasting.  I purchased the newer locking style mount mounts from Rick's 1st Generation back when Rick George owned and operated the store. The motor mounts fit well with no problems.

Originality / Re: 1969 Camaro battery
« on: May 22, 2013, 01:00:03 AM »
Hello 69Z28,

Sorry for the delay; I have not been on CRG for quite some time.  I purchased a Delco ACD 78-7yr battery, item #19001631, professional grade car and truck, maintenance free battery.  Itís a 770 cold cranking Amp (CCA) rated and has never failed me for the seven years it has been in use.  The first one was purchased in 2000, and sure enough, 7-years later in June 2007, I purchased the 2nd unit. I use a battery maintainer if the car sits for more than 6 weeks or longer.  I try to at least drive the car once a month (give or take a few weeks) on a 10 mile trip during the winter if the streets are dry to keep everything in good working order and keep seals lubed. 

My side post negative cable is marked 6297650 AU, the positive cable is 6297683 AR, as noted in the AIM, Section 12 A11 on page 162.


Originality / Re: 1969 Camaro battery
« on: April 29, 2013, 03:43:25 PM »
Last year at the Spring Mecum auction, which is held here in Indianapolis where I live, I reviewed an exceptionally nice survivor, very low mileage, Dodge Daytona "wing" car (okay, okay...not a Ď69Z Camaro which is my 1st love, but I really enjoy all muscle cars...particularly survivors).  I talked to the owner and the only non-original component under the hood was the battery.  He keeps the original in the trunk.  He purchase a very nice reproduction jell battery but I do not recall where.  I do remember that it costs about $450.

Has anyone had experience with the new repro jell batteries which are supposed to be very reliable?

Years ago, I purchased a very nice dated code Y77 side post battery for my 05A '69Z from New Castle.  As Jerry M explained, it was not 100% technically correct as it had 3/8-16 terminals on both the Pos & Neg.  This battery was the only one I could find at the time, and could not fine the correct reverse polarity repro cables to be 100% correct.  Did I recall reading (perhaps some fictional stories) that GM dealers in service after the original car sale, would replace the original Y55 side post reverse polarity battery with a Y77 and changed out the cables?

My repro battery lasted for about 3 - 4 years (I kept it on a battery maintainer anytime the car was not being driven for a period).  I cell died and I could start the car to get to a car show, but it was DOA when I tried to drive home from the show.   I have a good reliable Delco battery in use now and the "neutralized" repro is the trunk for show only.


General Discussion / Re: 1969 a.i.r. deep groove pump pulley
« on: November 24, 2012, 02:01:32 AM »

Sorry for the late response but work and other commitments have kept me quite busy lately.

When I restored my car during 1995 - 2000, I used a company named ASL to restore a number of my brake components.  They had a number of smog systems for sale.  When it came time to invest in a smog system, ASL was out of business.  I called Rick George who operated Rick's 1st Gen Camaro Parts and he gave the name of the guy who restored smog systems for ASL and his business.   I called and chatted with the guy and he happened to have a complete date code system correct for my car.  I guess it was my lucky day.

If your looking for a system,  inquire at the Camaro restoration supply companies.  I also have found Hemmings Motor News be a good source.


General Discussion / Re: 1969 a.i.r. deep groove pump pulley
« on: October 22, 2012, 01:57:27 AM »
Here is a picture of my 458DA smog pulley.  My smog system was missing when I purchased my 69' Z28, but fortunately I found a very nice complete survivor system with dated holes clamps and the crossover hose. 

I hope these pictures helps and good luck with your project!


Restoration / Re: 69 Camaro upper fender bolts
« on: June 03, 2012, 03:25:31 AM »

Give AMK a call,  they may sell you the small order that you need.  I have placed several small orders under $30. But I have spent a good amount of $ with them when I restored my car so AMK may have waved the $30 min order.

Originality / Re: Documenting 1969 Fasteners
« on: May 06, 2012, 03:18:12 AM »
Thanks IZRSSS and Paceme.

Your screws look like AMK screw B-11183, an 8-18 x 7/16 with a .38 encapsulated washer, in plain steel.  I'll may order these and give them a try.  One issue I have is that the passenger side was never drilled and attached with a screw,  and to drill the hole will require removing the fender.  Maybe I'll be lazy and not go to the trouble just as the boys one the Norwood line back in '69! LOL

Any suggestions?

Originality / Re: Documenting 1969 Fasteners
« on: May 05, 2012, 02:42:09 PM »
While we are on the subject of screws, can those with unrestored Ď69s cars or Ď69s with the original hardware intact, show a picture of the correct screw that holds the Front Windshield Lower Molding outer clip to the body.  See picture of the molding for reference.  You can see this clip and screw when you open the door and look into the inner fender area



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