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Messages - Edgemontvillage

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Thanks for the post Mike. Your theory on the current condition of the shading on your 67 LOS car’s windshield could be accurate. The link to the HBC windshield glass seems to be for their off-shore, and non-factory correct version which they poiitely caution as “not recommended for show cars” so likely not representative. The shading band on my former 4C Norwood car is a consistent blue and tapers off just above the AS1 mark. Would be very interested to see the Auto City glass and their etching work.

Decoding/Numbers / Re: New Reproduction Pilkington windshields
« on: January 22, 2019, 04:44:46 PM »
Here are some measurement photos I received from the current owner of my former 10 10 car (4C Norwood RS/Z) that I'm posting for future reference:


Decoding/Numbers / Re: New Reproduction Pilkington windshields
« on: January 22, 2019, 01:28:38 AM »
Lloyd the AS1 mark with the arrow ILLUSTRATES that from below the arrow the GLASS is AS1 above the arrow it is AS2 GLASS.
As far as I know AS1 AS2 are visibility ratings. because of the band of tint the glass is AS2 above the mark.
Yes I realize this doesn't tell you where it would be on an original in terms of a measurement, however if a tint band is narrower or wider would make the rating point of the glass change.

Yes, thanks James, from the CRG Research Report it states: "Shaded: added to tinted GM OEM windshields when they included the upper, dark (non-AS1), tint band. For regulatory purposes these windshields are only AS1 glass below the tint band. " Wanting to confirm the exact AS1 mark location on the windshield.

Decoding/Numbers / Re: New Reproduction Pilkington windshields
« on: January 21, 2019, 03:22:01 PM »
  Just get a hold of Pilkington Classics. They can do what you need.


Thanks Rick, I have what the manufacturer provides however I'm trying to confirm those coordinates from an original windshield.

Decoding/Numbers / Re: New Reproduction Pilkington windshields
« on: January 21, 2019, 03:35:15 AM »
  I bought my 67 convertible windshield from Auto City CLassic at
 They even did the LOF w/date (inside etch and readable from the inside so it looks reverse when looking from the outside). I can measure that AS1 and the AS1 from the other 67 coupe (still original windshield) if interested. Not sure if 69 was different. I looked at ECS but they were too costly. The LOF etching on the new glass is excellent.


Thanks Mike, does Auto City do glass etching in-house? Would you post a photo of one of the window etchings they did, I'm curious how they duplicated the LOF logo and the spacing. Thanks for the offer to measure the AS1 mark on your '67. Its unlikely there is a difference in location however I might be better off with a measurement from a '69 to be safe.

Restoration / Re: Body Mount Tape - Width
« on: January 21, 2019, 12:29:09 AM »
This week I'll remove the shock to closely examine the tape and will post pictures.


That would be great Mike.

Decoding/Numbers / Re: New Reproduction Pilkington windshields
« on: January 20, 2019, 09:17:44 PM »

Restoration / Re: Fuel Pump Restoration?
« on: January 18, 2019, 02:35:24 PM »
Noted, thanks Fred.

Decoding/Numbers / Re: New Reproduction Pilkington windshields
« on: January 18, 2019, 07:34:05 AM »
I need to replace the glass on my 1969 RS/Z (Norwood 2B) project as the windshield isn't original and the balance of the glass isn't in good enough condition to warrant restoration. In particular I need the location / measurements for the AS1 etching on the passenger side of the windshield when equipped with a tinted/shaded windshield. I am assuming the etching is applied to the outside of the glass for viewing inside. I was planning to order the replacement glass from ECS in Chesterfield MO who does etching in-house. Thanks in advance.

(photo - CRG)


Restoration / Re: Fuel Pump Restoration?
« on: January 18, 2019, 06:21:25 AM »
Thanks for clarifying Fred. Have you found way to eliminate (fill) the pocking while maintaining a natural, consistent appearance? Maybe too much to ask however it would be ideal for a factory fresh look.   

Restoration / Re: Fuel Pump Restoration?
« on: January 18, 2019, 05:12:32 AM »
Here is another example of Fred's fuel pump restoration work. This 40669, January 1969 date coded AC pump is original to my 2B Norwood RS/Z so I thought it was well worth restoring. It hasn't been run on the engine as yet so I can't comment on performance. I assume the body of the pump is magnesium (or aluminium or an alloy?) however it has the appearance of being coated as the surface is quite different from the NOS fuel pump of a similar vintage I own. Its also not clear to me if the metal porosity was there when the pump was new or if it suffers from long term oxidation. As you can see from the photos of the pump prior to restoration it was rough. Once again I have not seen this much pocking with any NOS fuel pumps. There is some waviness in the crimped edge between the main body and cad plated lower section however its not noticeable unless you're looking for it.


Restoration / Re: Body Mount Tape - Width
« on: January 18, 2019, 02:14:32 AM »
Based on replies #63-66 makes me think it would be approximately 2 1/4"w x 3 1/4" L for the #3 hole. The important measurement would be width (of the tape roll) and the length would be wherever it was cut from the dispenser.  Danny's reply #63 seems to be the best indicator so far. If it were me I would cut the 3" width down to 2 1/4" after cutting off about a 3" length.
  I've been giving this topic a lot of thought in regards to what the roll width is. Given the line worker(s) had to pull a piece of tape off a dispenser and place over the holes, while in a moving environment, the last thing you want to do it trim tape. So, it should be set up where you only need to worry about one of two variables (being width and length) and that would be tape length. With that in mind I would think the tape width would be such that it would be easy to place up in the flat section at the shock hole to cover that area entirely (with the proper length of course) and yet it would also be wide enough to cover the #3 hole. And that shock area width is 2" (measured on my 67 coupe). So, the only thing the worker had to do is pull off a correct length and slap it on. Based on Danny's measurements, I would cut the width to 2 1/4".

Mike brings up some good points! When our car was judged via the 5000 point system and on the lift there was no deduction concerning the tape so bottom line the most important thing is to have tape over those holes and 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" or 3" I don't believe it will make a huge difference. Just go with the info supplied here and utilize what seems the best choice.

Chick I appreciate the insight however my primary motivation is to understand Fisher Body's practice as I'm not convinced the undisclosed judging criteria in this area is even well developed. Many great cars have undergone Legends judging and I have to believe some have used the parts vendor tape which we can safely conclude is incorrect. I also like Mike's logic as its well reasoned.

Restoration / Re: Body Mount Tape - Width
« on: January 17, 2019, 01:31:35 AM »
Any conclusion on what size the tape should be?

I just picked up a roll of the 3" wide crepe paper tape from Amazon. About the same quality and appearance as the tape offered by the parts vendors just wider. From the posts here that are based on observations of original tape it seems there is no clear evidence of a consistent or standard tape width used by Fisher Body. It does appear that the tape was likely no less than 2 1/2" wide (and say 4" long), being the same width as the #3 position sub frame bushings. I'm inclined to adopt that width as the one to use however would appreciate other views?


Restoration / Re: Body Mount Tape - Width
« on: January 17, 2019, 01:15:08 AM »
Here are some exploded views...

James, you may recall the 10 10 car was full of an unusual red dust (inside and out). When I lowered the right side frame rail to replace the fuel line which had been modified at some point to install an electric fuel pump, I also pulled the right side rear sub frame bushings to clean and inspect them and noted there was no metal washer on the upper #3 bushing, only red dust.

Restoration / Re: Parking Brake Frame Guide Bar Finish?
« on: January 09, 2019, 05:27:37 PM »
James, an informative and interesting explanation (and hypothesis). What’s involved with doing Olive Passivation? I assume the trunk lock retainer bracket was also Olive Passivated?

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