Messages

1

General Discussion / Re: 68 convertable top color

« on: September 20, 2018, 11:11:02 AM »

Yes, White,or Black, but Blue convertible tops was a special order

Combos are documented here: http://www.camaros.org/numbers.shtml#ExteriorColors

2

Mild Modifications / Re: Prothane poly bushings in leafsprings

« on: September 13, 2018, 11:55:50 AM »

I use a mix, solid alum for the subframe, poly for the mono leafs (so provide stiffness) and rubber up front.  Yes ride is a little harsh, but firm.

3

General Discussion / Re: Manual convertible top

« on: September 09, 2018, 12:52:55 PM »

Aftermarket glass and/or thicker weight vinyl will all effect stack height.  It is very challenging to get even a factory top with thin weight vinyl to clip into the manual top clips.  You have to fold it correctly and make sure there is no binding anywhere.  With an aftermarket glass top, I would guess there is no way to fix that easily.  With a power top its not as noticeable since the rams will hold it down even if the stack height is to large.

In order to have a shot at clipping it, you would have to have the factory 32oz vinyl with the non zipped plastic rear window. Even then you have to stop the top halfway and pull out the mid fold. There should be some posts about that around here.

The only other suggestion I have to to alter the clip location. It is just bolted to the inner qtr.  You could make a small extension to the metal end to raise the clip up to where the frame is, to at least get it clipped.  Stack height will be too high, but at least it won't fly open while driving.

4

Restoration / Re: 1969 Astro Vent Seal Kit K227

« on: August 28, 2018, 11:50:22 PM »

OK, found my spare pass vent.  The two strips actually go on the pass side!  The glue to the sides facing forward.  There are two flat areas to glue to.  The rectangle goes on the drivers side to seal between the hard plastic vent assembly and the ABS vent housing.  The factory used a type of petroleum foam weatherstrip placed around the dash side of the vent.  I would just use closed cell foam weather strip for HD/Lowes. Wish I had pics for you!    

5

Restoration / Re: 1969 Astro Vent Seal Kit K227

« on: August 28, 2018, 11:40:15 AM »

So I have rebuilt my 69 astrovents and lets just say the are repro parts and may be lacking in some areas (I am not sure R or L, but they only fit one way)

Clockwise from top left (inside of astrovents clamped by metal, pass side duct connector, firewall to duct seal, other side firewall to duct seal, pass side vent assembly to dash isolator, drivers side vent isolators (two strips), and screws)

So I tried to find my spare set this morning and could not find them, so this is from memory, which at my age might not be all there

The flexible ABS ducts mount to the firewall with those special 3 large headed screws, the circle seals get contact cemented to the ducts, but not to the firewall.  Screw pressure seals them. 

The pass side has that intermediate dryer vent hose that connects the ABS duct to the hard plastic vent assemblies.   

Inside the ABS duct is the flappers.  The flat sheet rubber is for the flappers.  The flappers are mounted on shafts, remove the flappers from the shafts, pull out shafts, then you can pull up flappers.  The rubber sheet is sandwiched between two metal plates riveted together.  Grind the rivets to separate.  Pop rivets work well to re-assemble.  Note, sometime the ABS is cracked around screws and shaft holes.  You can use ABS repair kits and a soldering iron to repair.

So the large foam and the two strips are the weird ones.  On the drivers side the hard plastic vent assembly is mounted in the dash.  The two strips (top and bottom) are used as anti rattle isolators.  Again contact cement them to vent assembly, but not to other side. only one side gets glued  

The large rectangle must be for the pass side isolator.  I have a early 69 and seem to recall the same two small strips on the pass side same as the drivers side. But pay attention to the seals and isolators that are there and duplicate them.

Also now is the time to replace the chromed dash vents and felts! 

6

Originality / Re: Kick Panel Vent Door Levers

« on: August 22, 2018, 11:45:37 AM »

I will let someone with better 68 knowledge answer that one.

7

Originality / Re: Kick Panel Vent Door Levers

« on: August 21, 2018, 11:30:43 AM »

Lower lever controlled the floor level vent (by your feet).  The upper lever controlled the "astrovent" in the dash (in your face)

8

Originality / Re: Kick Panel Vent Door Levers

« on: August 20, 2018, 01:58:19 PM »

Oh, you opened the can of worms all right! So not really up on 67 and 68s, but I think they were both one lever for the kick vent.  69s are different.  They came in three (maybe four) versions.  First off there was a mid year change around Nov/Dec/Jan.  The early 69s got the 'two piece" kick panels, which was basically a separate vent cover but located the door jamb screw lower down.  The later 69s got the "one piece" which molded the vent cover in the kickpanel, and located the door jamb screw higher up.  These are not interchangeable due to the one screw location.  But if you fill and re-drill the hole, they will fit.  These both came with two levers, one for the upper and one for the lower. 

Now Air Conditioned cars came with a different kickpanel all together. The drivers side had no vent at all and the pass side, the lower vent hole was used for the "max-air" flapper.  Both sides got separate screw on lever to control the upper dash vent.  There may have even been a early/later version change on these too since the door jamb holes may have been different.

Easiest way to tell is look at orientation of levers, 67s and 68s are more of a slant and only one, 69s were horizontal and had two.

If you have a 69 without A/C, then you have two levers.  If yours has a separate vent covers, then you need the early "two piece".  If not, you need the "one piece".

Hope that helps!       

9

Maintenance / Re: Oil

« on: July 31, 2018, 11:20:32 AM »

I also use the 15w-40 from walmart in my 350 (929 flat tappet), no issues

10

Restoration / Re: Smog pump fan, white

« on: June 29, 2018, 11:20:38 AM »

Thanks for the website Ed!  I did take the bolts out but it must be a rusty hell inside, cause the back did not budge.  Maybe I will soak the whole thing in evaporust

11

Restoration / Re: Smog pump fan, white

« on: June 27, 2018, 11:45:02 AM »

I would like to know too.  And any help in disassembling the pump it self.  Taking the bolts off do nothing, still frozen and locked together tighter then... well you know.

12

Originality / Re: Recently purchased a LM1 Camaro RS package

« on: June 27, 2018, 11:41:26 AM »

Kolt, Welcome and congrats on your purchase. So I am a little confused on the advice you are looking for.  With a rusted body, you have to fix that first (unless it is in non critical areas and you want a patina car ).  But you likely won't be able to save the original paint, since you have to fix the rust.  Sounds like a pretty full resto (maybe frame on) is going to happen.

For the engine, keeping it all original but the intake and carb, will hurt value a little.  You are not going to loose much HP by keeping the originals and making sure they (and everything else) are in top running condition.

My first advice is to not throw ANYTHING away that you take off car.  A lot of things that you might not think, can be reconditioned instead of replaced.  but the parts are also a good source of reference when comparing why a repro part does not fit. Once the car is completely restored, then you can sell the good parts and get rid of the rest.

So how about some pics and we can give you some info. 

13

Decoding/Numbers / Re: Caveat Emptor...beware the carefully worded ad

« on: June 21, 2018, 11:25:22 AM »

, not Deluxe belts, just regular standards, plus seat covers are repro PUI ones and the repro Puffy door panels, hardly original

14

Originality / Re: Seat belt buckle dates?

« on: June 18, 2018, 11:40:01 AM »

I think they are similar to stampings on sheet metal.  2 digits might be week or a line number.  Could be a run number too. If they are similar numbers, then they should be all in the same dates of manufacture.

15

General Discussion / Re: Shut down

« on: June 06, 2018, 10:49:24 AM »

I had a similar problem with amps using an original 37A alt and a big stereo.  Running the stereo would drain the battery at idle an low speeds, because the alt is not putting out many amps at low speeds.  I took my alt to a local rebuilder and they install 100A guts in my original case. That fixed the issue!