6
« on: June 20, 2019, 10:04:12 AM »
Yes, I've seen it in the past, but I never took notice of / didn't remember the part on the reverse lockout... Did not seem interesting, that is of course until you have that break and then it is very interesting, Still one thing is a bit puzzling as the description of the First Design clearly list it has a spring but the exploded view does not seem to show one, but the Second Design clearly does (Item #18)...
The obvious question at this point is what is the fix? Service parts don't seem to be available [except a couple of listings of the Second Design "LOCK OUT ASSY" pin at at RIDICULOUSLY high price]. Is there an easy replacement for the band? What if one or more of the ball bearings is lost? Is there a reproduction source for the simpler Second Design? Is the spring common between the two designs? What is the "Retainer Ring" made of (metal or rubber?)...]. If I was able bodied I'd improvise a "Second Design" with a suitable Grade 3 bolt ground down a bit, ground flat on the head, and matched with a comparable spring / retainer... but I'm not and need friends to do everything.
Based on Mike S reply/comments (thank you Mike) and review of pics I found / AIM documentation I compiled a draft procedure for the removal of the shifter assembly (remember I'm asking complete novices to do this work for me). Tonight I ask my evening caregiver (young, good mechanical aptitude, great attitude to do the first part (2 pages of steps "in the car"), and she has no experience whatsoever working on cars) and it went ok except one unforeseen hiccup - the chrome lock color of the two piece shift knob is frozen on the shift handle stud... but somehow she was able to get the console shift plate assembly, Item #10, and the floor boot to come past it. Is the answer soaking the stud with Liquid Wrench? It did not seem like it was corroded...
I get the impression this is a typical issue because the original Muncie monogramed shift handle in my car when I bought it (1983) was broke off and welded back on (looked bad and we didn't trust it so my Dad swapped it out with another he found at the auto salvage yard he worked part time at, but it did not have the word "Muncie" on it and my original L30M20 was a Saginaw anyhow... but ironically I blew that the first time I tried to do a burn out and we were putting a Muncie in...).
Based on feedback my brother-in-law gave me based on his initial attempt to remove the shifter I think that collar is going to interfere/catch on the lip of the opening based on the steep angle required to pull it out/clear the transmission.... so it will likely need to come off and I don't want it to be broken off this one...
I would appreciate review and constructive feedback on the attached procedure (as I'm defining it as I think it should go only based on visioning it in my head)...
Thanks,
Dan