Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Randy Shanks

Pages: [1] 2
1
Garage Talk / Re: Welder won't feed wire
« on: January 08, 2019, 10:39:25 PM »
try adjusting the pinch roller tension, or you may have a worn out liner in the torch.
are you sure the wire hasn't welded to the tip?
grab the end of the wire with pliers and pull.
you can also open the cover and observe the mechanism at pinch roller and see if the drive roller is turning when you pull the trigger.
just some things to try.
Randy

2
Restoration / Re: 69 396-325 hp starter heat shield spacer bolt
« on: December 17, 2018, 06:52:06 AM »
I bought one last fall from D&R Classics

https://www.drclassic.com/catalog/Camaro

3
Restoration / Re: 69 396-325 hp starter heat shield spacer bolt
« on: December 16, 2018, 09:59:49 PM »
That looks like it. I will call them tomorrow to see if is the same as for the 398 and if they have it in stock.
I ordered one from R & R about 6 months ago which the back ordered. Not a word since.
Easy to make but not for that price if I can find one
Thanks for the reply
Merry Christmas to all
Randy

4
Restoration / 69 396-325 hp starter heat shield spacer bolt
« on: December 16, 2018, 09:44:09 PM »
Does anyone have a photo or specs./drawing of the heat shield spacer bolt on 69 396/325 hp engine
I I can find the specs we will make a run of these in our machine shop if anyone is interested.
Can't seem to find anyone that has them for sale, and actually in stock.

Randy

5
General Discussion / Re: 69 Convertable inner front fenders
« on: April 16, 2018, 06:18:54 AM »
Sorry to disappoint you William, but I ordered this car new, and I have not removed the front shakers.
I have had this car since it came in to the dealer ( McQueen Chevrolet in Owensville, MO ) in summer of '69.
So please don't make statements you know nothing about!
Randy

6
General Discussion / Re: 69 Convertable inner front fenders
« on: April 16, 2018, 01:51:13 AM »
I have a "69 convertible that I bought new, and it does not have front shakers. It does have rears.
Maybe it is because of the big block engine, whatever the reason it came from the factory that way.
Randy

7
Update;
now no brake warning light when I press brake pedal with key on but not running. Good solid pedal.
However when I start the engine and press the pedal I get a light, the booster seems to be working but I just don't know what to check next.
Randy

8
Thanks KurtS for your response.
I started by vacuum bleeding ( with MityMite )  the MC, then the brakes.
Followed by manual bleeding the old fashion way.
I have since unplugged the parking brake switch which shut the warning light off. When I press the brakes it comes on. It goes off on release of pedal.
I am going to try to re-center the plunger in the dist. block and re-bleed the brakes again.
I have a good hard pedal so I don't think I still have air in the lines.
Maybe this will fix it.
fI that doesn't work I will rebuild the proportioning valve.
Thanks

9
Mike,
I will try that tomorrow. The front brakes work good, the rear do not lock the wheel.
If the plunger in the block is pushed completely to the rear would that restrict the flow to the rear brakes?
When I brought car from storage the rear MC reservoir was dry and had a lot of fine rusty residue in it.
I replaced the MC with new one but have not done anything to the block or valves.
I also rebuilt the calipers and new pads and new rear shoes and wheel cyl.
Bled the brakes and have a good hard pedal but the rear brakes do not work, flow seemed restricted some when bleeding rear brakes.
Probably should order rebuild kits from Muscle Car Research for the block and two valves.
Very frustrating.
Thanks for your help.
Randy

10
Maintenance / Brake warning light
« on: April 02, 2018, 05:13:32 PM »
If I unplug the wire from the switch under the MC, would that shut off the light on the dash. If it does not shut off the problem is either a grounded circuit of bad switch at parking brake lever.
Am I on the right track here or not.
Any info would be appreciated.
Randy

11
Thanks Steve.
This is exactly the info I need
Randy

12
I have just finished installing new brake pads and shoes, new wheel cyls, rebuilt the single piston calipers, and new master cyl.
The front brakes are working fine, the rear brakes are not.
I am pretty sure we bled the brakes properly.
The brake warning light on the dash comes on as soon as I turn the key on. Does no go off.
I am trying to figure out if the switch/dist block under the master cyl is bad. Can this be taken apart and cleaned, or does it just need to be replaced.
The only procedure to test the switch I could find in the Service manual was to open a rear bleeder and see if the light comes on.
I can't find any method to test or clean the switch.
Also how does one test the proportioning valve and the hold off valve on the frame.
Just replacing all of these parts gets pretty expensive.
Any help would be appreciated
Randy

13
Maintenance / Re: testing brake booster
« on: March 30, 2018, 01:34:32 AM »
Thanks m22mike
Randy

14
I have ordered from Ricks, or Eckler's. two times and have yet to receive usable parts.
One set of fuel lines from pump to carb came in a bag that was torn open, a new tag over a old one, with missing parts. What was there did not fit.
They refunded my money on both occasions, but two times was the charm for me.
Have been buying from D & R Classics in Illinois (https://www.drclassic.com/catalog/Camaro) with pretty good results.
They usually ship the same day you order, and have good knowledge and service.
Randy

15
Maintenance / Re: testing brake booster
« on: March 27, 2018, 02:17:28 AM »
would you care to give me the procedure.
Thanks
Randy

Pages: [1] 2