CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => Maintenance => Topic started by: muscle joe on April 17, 2011, 05:53:22 PM
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Rebuilding my 69 DZ and was wondering on the cam issue, I want more lope than the 30-30 cam that was original, is there any issues I need to be aware of before I buy a cam, I do not know much about the mechanical side of rebuilding and changing cams, if I go with a more lope cam do I need to change carburation, dist, curve and there a limit to which cam I can go with Joe
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maybe the -140 GM off-road cam would be good? Hope you have lots of compression to go with it.
-Mark.
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and a deap rear gear, tons of fun above 7000rpm.
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staying with 11-1
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I found this thread to be helpful:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=155736&highlight=road+cam
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Thanks Dusk blue He had a video uploaded and that 140 is exactly what I want, everyone else thanks for the responses Joe
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<<Rebuilding my 69 DZ and was wondering on the cam issue, I want more lope than the 30-30 cam that was original >>
"More lope" isn't a great way to choose a cam, unless impressing the troops at the local cruise night while idling is your sole criteria for making the selection. The -140 cam is less street-driveable and makes even less torque at low to mid-range rpm than the "30-30", which is notorious for no low-end torque. Your car, your call, but "lope" is the last criteria I'd use for cam selection for a regularly-driven street car.
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I used to run the "140" cam in a 12.5 302 years ago. My car came with 4.56 gears from the factory. All that said it was irratic. Tried different curves on the dist. It just made no street sence except at the midnight drags. Sounded wild uncorked. The car need more gear to make it work. I think the car was slower after I installed that cam. Went back to the original cam & pistons. Lots more fun & less screwing around with everything. Cam has enough lope to sound good & be mysterios to people today. The ball is in your court. Good luck...Joe
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I would love to talk to anyone who knows more about this than me, and obviously someone who knows the 302, if someone here would like to pm me there phone or I can pm mine I do need some guidance in this area, I am not a street racer but have always liked the lope of the muscle car, I do not want to do this twice, I would like to get it done right the first time, I am a proffessional in the work place so there would not be any issues other than helping me with my parts choices Thanks Joe
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sure I like the lope at idle, who doesn't, isn't that what we grew up with, the lope, the muscle, anyway, yes , I do not know and I am happy to hear from all, SDome say very streetable some say no Joe
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I would recommend building the car back stock. You will be happy in the long run and will not have to screw around with ridiculous low rear gear ratios, high comprssion ratios, poor streetability, and having to buy race gas.
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MTC- Make sure that what ever cam you go with that the 302 heads will flow enough air based on the cam lift you buy..Otherwise it might be a waste of time and money, unless you are just looking for is sound and not performace..
You can also give CC or Howard's Cams a call and let them provide you with some guidance..Also, bear in mind, if you go with too much lift and duration to get the sound that you are looking for, it might create another problem by pulling pressed in rocker studs out....
TMR
Eddie
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The factory "151" hydraulic cam and the factory "30-30" solid cam share two features that make them reliable and driveable at 11:1 compression on pump premium gas. A late-closing intake valve that bleeds off some cylinder pressure at low to medium rpm to avoid premature detonation, and "soft-touch" ramp designs that allow them to use ordinary valve spring pressures (90# closed, 190# open) to avoid wiped lobes and lifters. Most aftermarket cams don't have either of those features, in the quest for high-rpm power, which creates a whole new set of problems. Chevrolet understood valvetrain dynamics and the use of the Spintron device to develop bulletproof-reliable cam profiles and springs for high-volume production parts, and had to cover them with warranties; you don't get that with aftermarket cams.
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John Z were is a good place to purchase an OE 30-30 cam?
Thanks
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John Z were is a good place to purchase an OE 30-30 cam?
Thanks
You have to keep an eye out for them on eBay, or Federal Mogul-Speed Pro makes an exact blueprint copy, their #CS-118R (#KC-118R with lifters). GMPP used to have them as #12364052 with lifters, but it was discontinued about two years ago (made by Crane, their #967251).
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Thanks John
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I couldn't be happier with the Solid Roller that Dave Crower spec'd for the 302. 12:1.
Had to provide the Gear ratios, trans and diff, car weight, intended use, and flow numbers on the heads from .100 - .700. MOST IMPORTANT!!!! EVERYONE tells me the lift is too radical, however the power never drops off, it isn't peaky, and is almost as easy to drive as a Honda.
Link to a video of the engine running...
http://rides.webshots.com/album/578631405AuQvEM?vhost=rides
It makes stupid power and will destroy the tires by rolling into the throttle in any gear while cruising. SO MUCH FUN...
Broad Torque which is designed to have 350 ft# by 3200 rpm. peaking at 475 shy of 5500
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What's the lift? I thought mine was kind of on the limit but it's been just fine. Sounds and acts kinda like the one you have but it was a CC XS282S.
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.636 gross lift... UP QUICK and holds them open long and lets them down easy on the seats
Idles at 1000-1100 with 12-14" vacuum.