CRG Discussion Forum

Camaro Research Group Discussion => Restoration => Topic started by: fireZ on October 21, 2010, 10:48:52 PM

Title: 1968 smog manifolds
Post by: fireZ on October 21, 2010, 10:48:52 PM
Anyone know the thread size for a smog fitting on a 68 Z. I need to run a tap through to clean up my thread to put smog tubes in.
Title: Re: 1968 smog manifolds
Post by: Boston14 on October 21, 2010, 11:04:20 PM
Check this post;     http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=7067.0   



boston14
Title: Re: 1968 smog manifolds
Post by: fireZ on October 21, 2010, 11:07:21 PM
I can not seem to pull it up on the site
Title: Re: 1968 smog manifolds
Post by: Boston14 on October 21, 2010, 11:14:38 PM
I didn't know how to insert it as a link ....... just copy it and paste it in your browser and that will take you there.
Title: Re: 1968 smog manifolds
Post by: Gramps69Z on October 22, 2010, 12:18:44 AM
  Try this one.  http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=7067.0
Title: Re: 1968 smog manifolds
Post by: acelr8 on October 22, 2010, 01:01:56 AM
1/4 Straght pipe not taper pipe is correct.Jeff
Title: Re: 1968 smog manifolds
Post by: 169INDY on October 27, 2010, 04:29:28 AM
I just went thru something similar.
One of the A.I.R Trees rotted out from the inside and required replacement.
Twisted off two of the 4 nuts and had to machine out the thread (Nut) while not intruding i.e. damaging the manifold.
I used a series of drill bits up to the correct tap size and pulled the 'treads' of the nut out of the manifold holes,,,
then purchased (appx 40$ ouch) a 1/4-18 NPSF 4FLT STR D/S Pipe tap from Fastenal (pn 16356 Brand Greenfield Tap & Die) and chased my manifold thread for a clean fit on the new tube nuts.

P.S. also machined some custom hidden plugs that seat below the tubes as my pump is de-vaned and need to seal exhaust gases from the check vlv etc.

Jim
Title: Re: 1968 smog manifolds
Post by: JohnZ on October 27, 2010, 02:41:34 PM
P.S. also machined some custom hidden plugs that seat below the tubes as my pump is de-vaned and need to seal exhaust gases from the check vlv etc.

Jim

You can also use #10 x 1/2" flat-head machine screws in the holes in the exhaust manifolds (after knocking out the stainless tubes) instead of having plugs custom-made; the air manifold tube nuts then tighten down to the same dimension as if the tubes were still installed.
Title: Re: 1968 smog manifolds
Post by: 169INDY on October 29, 2010, 01:44:24 AM


You can also use #10 x 1/2" flat-head machine screws in the holes in the exhaust manifolds (after knocking out the stainless tubes) instead of having plugs custom-made; the air manifold tube nuts then tighten down to the same dimension as if the tubes were still installed.
[/quote]

Ya, I have even heard of folks suggesting (I would not) installing roofing nails to block the passage. Not very durable in my opinion.

I removed the tube, extensions. Machined (On a Lathe I have) a tight tolerance -plug- with shaping to really seal it up good. The "head" height was calculated to acquire the same standoff distance on the smog air manifold tree tube nuts. It was fun making CHIPS! The plugs do not intrude into the exhaust manifold chamber area at all.
Title: Re: 1968 smog manifolds
Post by: JohnZ on October 29, 2010, 04:35:51 PM
Ya, I have even heard of folks suggesting (I would not) installing roofing nails to block the passage. Not very durable in my opinion.

I've done lots of them using stainless steel machine screws - they'll last forever, and won't corrode in place.
Title: Re: 1968 smog manifolds
Post by: 169INDY on March 07, 2011, 04:09:55 AM
Pic post: Pic of smog plug fabrication.

Title: Re: 1968 smog manifolds
Post by: rszmjt on March 07, 2011, 04:23:22 AM
3/16 blind trailer rivits inserted into the smog rails and rivited. They never move and seal up.