CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => Restoration => Topic started by: Jrschev on February 10, 2009, 03:45:43 AM
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Hello again! Can anyone recommend someone good to send my original master cylinder and power brake booster to for rebuilding/replating. I want to make sure I get the ones I send in back and not a replacement as they are original to the car. I also would like the master cylinder sleeved with stainless. Thanks for any and all suggestions.
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I sent mine to Jerry MacNeish at Camaro Hi-Performance. They did and excellant job and I thought the price was reasonable.
Larry
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Of Course MacNeish is great, but depending where you live and you don't want to ship it out, there is a place in Upland [California] that I could suggest. Karp's Power Brake did a fine job for me.
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Hello again! Can anyone recommend someone good to send my original master cylinder and power brake booster to for rebuilding/replating. I want to make sure I get the ones I send in back and not a replacement as they are original to the car. I also would like the master cylinder sleeved with stainless. Thanks for any and all suggestions.
Another source is whitepost.com
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Jim,
Jerry does outstanding work and he's right in Maryland. Prices are fair in regards to the quality of work and he's a Concourse Judge for ACA's Camaro Nationals in Carlisle.
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Thanks everyone for your input. Very helpful. Sent the mas cyl to Apple hydraulics. Seem very resonable and been in business forever. Still have not sent the booster out yet but soon.
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Make sure they install a stainless steel sleeve if it needs one. They normally do after many years. Cars now are 40 years old! One issue for W/P is they install a brass sleeve and do not want owners to use silicone brake fluid. That's a problem in the world of show cars. I even run the silicone fluid in my race car. Just some food for thought.
We are fortunate to be very busy in this economy and will not try to steal anyone's work. Just some things to remember and consider with whom ever you choose.
Good luck,
Jerry
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Jerry,
Just curious, what's the issue with brass & silicone fluid?
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Don't know. It's an on-going issue with W/P. We used brass many years ago and I actually have one done like this on the Old Reliable race car and never had an issse.......at 120 mph. We started using stainless steel sleeves a few years ago and that has been better for us. No one wants to put reg brake fluid in a show car. Not me either.
Jerry
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Jerry,
Just curious, what's the issue with brass & silicone fluid?
There really isn't an issue - Billy just has a hangup about silicone brake fluid. Apple Hydraulics also uses brass sleeves, and they don't have a problem with it.
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Thanks, thought there was something I was unaware of. I have silicone in my car too because it's paint friendly but it's a PITA to work with in reference to air in it/the system-requires LOTS of patients! I also think you get a better pedal feel with glycol based fluids; maybe that's why they don't recommend it.
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I have a 50 Buick and have run silicone for 30 years in it with no problem.
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The only thing they are doing to my master cylinder is installing a brass sleeve as it was pitted where the water sat in the bottom. I'll do the rest myself and made that clear to them in fact. I won't be using silicone as it's not neccessary. While I agree that it is a better fluid in the sense that it is non-hygroscopic, thus eliminating future rust, the only other advantage is the higher boilling point. That is what the DOT 5 rating relates to. DOT 4 and DOT 3 have lower boiling points. This is important in applications that are generating lots of heat (race cars) but not in a 1969 camaro. The problem with using DOT 5 is that you must remove all traces of DOT4 and lower from the system including residual amounts on the seals etc. Unless the system is completely dismantled, flushed and dried there will likely be a problem with the creation of sludge like material as a component of dis-similar materials. Doing a complete frame off restoration and starting new it's the best way to go. It will be good 100 years from now. Anything less than that type of resto and the potential problems out weigh the advantages. There is absolutely no conflict with brass and silicone. That is a myth. (not unlike the thousands of other myths in the automotive world)
Jerry, thanks for the reply to my inital email. Glad to hear you guys are busy. I'm not surprised that you are by what I read on the site.