CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => Restoration => Topic started by: 9T4Z on December 29, 2007, 11:29:32 PM
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Hello there.. 69 camaro
been looking at a lot of suppliers that say "OEM" but I am sure a few of you may know. I thought the ones from 'Ricks' looked ok also the lowers from Heartbeat City.
Anyone post a pic of a correct pair or steer me in the right direction?
Happy New Year
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Year One is a safe bet to go with if your replacing with original type. Rick's is good also.
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I don't see a problem with the pressed in lowers, the orginal uppers are riveted to the upper control arm, and all replacements I've seen are bolted in.
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Restoring our 67 camaro, we purchased rivit head bolts for installing the upper ball joints. they look like a rivit, and bolt from under. We purchased them from "Trim Tag.com" These were for the "vett" guys. Pete
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Yes the lower shouldn't be a problem... Ricks and Heartbeat have a good one but the uppers from some are different.. the hump in the middle and the position of the grease fitting.
I did buy some of the threaded rivets.. looked good. Then I took some "real rivets" and ran a die on it.. its 1/4" The metal is soft so it's pretty easy to do. The color is more correct than the plating on the other pre-made ones.
I've got the A arms off so I will do the rivet correctly but the thread is neat if you don't want to hammer on a A arm thats attached.
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I wouldn't advise using rivets you've threaded - they're pretty soft and have nowhere near the tensile strength as a threaded fastener as the replacement Grade 8 bolts that come with the replacement upper ball joints. As a rivet, they work fine when set properly, but they don't make a good threaded fastener.
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I agreed with JohnZ, if you could see the possible damage done when a ball joint breaks loose, you would too. And they don't do it parked. I know I wouldn't want to be driving my car when one breaks. :(
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Good advice... will remove the control arm and use OE rivet properly set!
Happy New Year
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Ricks sells the reproduction Bubble top Ball joints... they are painted black though... the originals were natural steel.
The bubble tops were used on 67-68 for sure but most original 69's I have seen were the flat top which no one reproduces... as far as I know. They are had NOS... and a Pair of NOS ones runs around $500 if you can find them.
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We do rivet ball joints inito the upper control arms here at CHP. It's one of the services that we offer. $100 for the pair.
Jerry
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Attached is a picture of the different upper ball joints. The left one is a 28K original (mine), the center one is a NOS 3963842 (ebay), the right one is a SS-195 from Classic Suspension (Chevy). The spot welds are very visible on the NOS compared to the original, but the appearance is correct. The SS-195 has a round or bubble top. The rubber boots are held on with the metal band that is shown on the original part.
Does anyone know where you could buy just the rubber boots?
Mike
(http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj305/Dusk_Blue_Z/3uppers.jpg)
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The repo bubble tope also has larger holes... for bolts not for the original rivets
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Attached is a picture of the different upper ball joints. The left one is a 28K original (mine), the center one is a NOS 3963842 (ebay), the right one is a SS-195 from Classic Suspension (Chevy). The spot welds are very visible on the NOS compared to the original, but the appearance is correct. The SS-195 has a round or bubble top. The rubber boots are held on with the metal band that is shown on the original part.
Does anyone know where you could buy just the rubber boots?
Mike
(http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj305/Dusk_Blue_Z/3uppers.jpg)
Mike.. can you be sure that your 'original 28K mi' is indeed original. Reason I ask is because originals were 1/4" hole for the GM rivet and later replacements has a 5/16' hole and the A arm was drilled to increase the size slightly for the bolt/nut kit.
Your original looks to have 5/16" holes unless it is just the picture. When you removed them did you cut off the rivets?
Gary
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The holes are 1/4 inch, I drilled out the rivets to remove them. They are still tight, just the rubber boots were shot.
(http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj305/Dusk_Blue_Z/UpperAArm.jpg)
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Cool... 1/4" hole = original. I note that the SS195 from Classic has the 5/16" hole.... making it impossible to use the original rivet and thus use the supplied nut and bolts.
If you want a 5/16' rivet you can always use the one for F@RD lower ball joints...
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Great info guys. Thanks!
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On my '67 Upper Ball Joints I used 5/16 in. Button Head bolt(Readily available locally). Then filled the Hex indent. with Bondo and hand painted it with Cast Blast. Looks good. I've attached a photo.