CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => Restoration => Topic started by: mcp on October 20, 2007, 01:45:20 AM
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Recently bought a Fender Skirt Splash Apron Set from Classic for my 69 Camaro. Can someone describe to me where these are located. There is 2 fenderwell dust flaps , 2 fenderwell to frame splash flaps and 1 dust seal which fits between the firewall and the inner fender. I may need some pictures. Thanks for any help!
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Here's a TC thread with pics:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71611
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Just a couple of tips. The splash guards are much easier to install with the inner fenders off the car. And the one over z-bar needs to be installed before the fenders go on.
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Recently bought a Fender Skirt Splash Apron Set from Classic for my 69 Camaro. Can someone describe to me where these are located. There is 2 fenderwell dust flaps , 2 fenderwell to frame splash flaps and 1 dust seal which fits between the firewall and the inner fender. I may need some pictures. Thanks for any help!
Sounds like you need an Assembly Manual - it's chock full of illustrations; all the vendors have them. Can't imagine working on a 38-year-old car without one.
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You may also find this thread helpful. http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=674.0
In the pictures of my car, I haven't tucked the splash shields into their proper position in the control arm, but they are installed.
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Any company making those that look more like originals yet? Who's using what brand??
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The correct material is available, truckers use it for anti slip mats in the semi trailers. Some of the truckers I have had haul loads of paper had some in their trucks and I asked one and he gave me a roll of it. Exactly the same as originals strings showing etc
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James,
How thick is your material?
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James, Glad to hear it's available but sounds like you got lucky! Did you happen to ask the trucker where it came from? Since I'm not expecting a load of paper looks like my only option will be hanging out at truck stops in hopes to find this material..LOL! Research and more research and I might get lucky! Thanks....
Rick
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Note, the splash apron rubber pieces were originally stapled to the inner fender wells. As JohnZ pointed out, be sure to purchase a copy of the assembly manual as it will show you exactly where and about how many staples to use. It’s not easy to hold the two pieces together and drill thru them to install the staples, and to fold the staples back to as they were done originally with the specialized staplers used at the factory, but take your time and your can get nice looking results. If you are restoring your original inner fender wells, then you will have the staple holes in place to use as a guide.
Good luck with your project!
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Lots of posts on this subject...suggest a detailed search. Some posts describe how to make your own staples out of 16 or 18 gauge steel, etc. When installing mine, I used a small dab of contact cement to hold the rubber shields in place before I installed the staples. Made my own staples to match factory ones. Used factory holes as template, & drilled with 1/16 bit through hole + rubber to make staple installation easier.
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I have some original fender skirts with staples placed hurriedly and sloppily. Some missing and some with the staples half off the inner fender. AIM may show exactly where they went, but workers were not overly concerned with this detail. No different than original quarters and tail panel I have that are badly aligned and poorly welded., other areas not welded at all.
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You can purchase the staple in a kit, precut and pre-bent read to install. If you are drilling repro fender wells for staples, drill one of the holes, insert the staple and make a mark where to drill the second hole...it worked for me.
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Another challenging thing can be if you are using the original staple holes ..getting the repo staples to fit that hole....I've found that needle nose pliers will help bend the staple so it lines up with the factory holes after some tweaking! Anybody making the splash shields these days that look different than the inner tubes they have been selling? A never ending quest to find better repo parts.............
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I use zinc plated TIG wire or sometimes stainless TIG wire to keep it from rusting.
I use an old staple as a pattern to fabricate the new staples using a pair of Dikes for snipping and vice grips for bending.
Hold the new flap in place with C-clamps or spring clips then use a dremel to drill the holes through the new dust flap using the old holes in the inner fenders as a guide.
NEXT feed the prefabricated wire staples through and use a pair of needle nose to roll the end into the staple arc.
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James,
How thick is your material?
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Still looking for the splash kit that's close to original and several places like Heartbeat City,The Parts Place,Trim parts, Metro claim to be just like the originals but don't want to buy ALL of them just to compare! Anybody tried some from these retailers ?
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The Material called MASTICATED RUBBER it is 1/8" thick and is available from:
Restoration Specialties & Supply Inc
814-467-9842 PA
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Just ordered some will post results.
40" wide x Linear foot @ $13.75 per FT.
I have a torn Orig I bonded (Glued-Goofy) repair back in 86. The replacements seem to smooth and lack the texture and cotton strands.
James I sincerely appreciate you sharing the source.
Jim
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Thanks James for the info.........
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James,
How thick is your material?
2X James
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I just measured it on a EJ Cady dial caliper with industry spec anvils (some specific sq inches) and I came up with .075.
This is the masticated rubber with the string cords in it.
I will post photos this week.
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Just measured my original 67 dust shield material 4 pc and they check out at .082/.090. The 5th lower rear LH shield only measures .115/.120.
Wire staples for the 4 pc dust shields measure .050 and the ones for the lower rear are .055.
I checked the shields I have from Soft Seal and they are all .070.
The search continues.
Bob
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I was also disappointed with the set from soft seal! Inner tube cut outs was my first impression......
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Another disappointment, just talked to Paul @ Steele Rubber Products and their 5 pc dust shield set 70-3309-45 is made from 1/16" (.062) masticated rubber but they do have 3/32" (.093) sheet (70-0645-45) that sells for $34.00 per liner foot that is 4'. .093 a little to thick for the 4 pc shields and not thick enough for the lower rear shield.
Bob
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Good work Bob! Glad somebody cares enough to do the research for us!
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While at Carlisle I picked up some of Restoration Specialties material. As mentioned before its sold by the foot. Thanks James!
(http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z117/1-2-b-67L89/68%20Camaro%20Z28/68%20Assembly%20Issues/restoration%20specialities%20material_zps4l2g4fop.jpg) (http://s192.photobucket.com/user/1-2-b-67L89/media/68%20Camaro%20Z28/68%20Assembly%20Issues/restoration%20specialities%20material_zps4l2g4fop.jpg.html)
Thickness of material:
(http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z117/1-2-b-67L89/68%20Camaro%20Z28/68%20Assembly%20Issues/Restoration%20Specialties%20material%20thk_zpsnkgs8ole.jpg) (http://s192.photobucket.com/user/1-2-b-67L89/media/68%20Camaro%20Z28/68%20Assembly%20Issues/Restoration%20Specialties%20material%20thk_zpsnkgs8ole.jpg.html)
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Chick,
The masticated sheet they show MAT014-WS is 1/16" .062, so they indicate. I wonder what the thickness tolerances are on this type sheeting?
Did you check the old seals on your 68? Did you make new ones from the material you bought or use the old ones?
Does your 68 have the 5th seal at the LH firewall?
Bob
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Chick,
The masticated sheet they show MAT014-WS is 1/16" .062, so they indicate. I wonder what the thickness tolerances are on this type sheeting?
Did you check the old seals on your 68? Did you make new ones from the material you bought or use the old ones?
Does your 68 have the 5th seal at the LH firewall?
Bob
Bob, just picked up the material this week so have not done anything with it. I'm in need of new ones for our 68Z restoration so I'm checking different avenues which might include making. Thickness does seem to vary but I only purchased a 2' piece and I'm thinking a little thicker will not be an issue compared to being thinner. For me the big factor as I talked to James was trying to duplicate the look which is not easy. And yes, our 68 had the 5th seal which is original to the car and recently put it in place as the front end goes back on soon.
(http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z117/1-2-b-67L89/68%20Camaro%20Z28/Body%20Assembly%20and%20Paint/2015-04-11%2013.53.06_zpsapr4kurl.jpg) (http://s192.photobucket.com/user/1-2-b-67L89/media/68%20Camaro%20Z28/Body%20Assembly%20and%20Paint/2015-04-11%2013.53.06_zpsapr4kurl.jpg.html)
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I got the 2' linear rubber, matting, 1/16" (Actual 0.080 +.003" / - 0.000"). Part number MAT014-WS
seems thicker (as measured and indicated above) than the advertised 0.0625", I think that is a good thing.
Very fresh and pliable and cuts easily with a quality set of shears. Using a silver ink pen I transferred the shape from the original shield to the rubber stock. Cut like you are in kindergarten art class.
I had purchased some galv wire #17ga in thought that I would mfr my own replacement staples, Ha ! No way. This "wire" solid round, galv is way to pliable ductile etc bendable. The factory staples are tough units- Fail, So I resorted to re-using the existing staples by bending them straight and forcing the rubber (NEW) over the staple points and pushing the staple thru the rubber with a variety of "tools" to get penetration and then tap them over by folding it on top of the rubber to retain the shield in position.