CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => General Discussion => Topic started by: Bjv69ss on July 11, 2007, 11:27:33 PM
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I tried to buy front rotors for my 69 SS from a brake warehouse in our area. My car has bolt on to the hub type rotors. They only list a one piece rotor and I noticed that Ricks only has the one piece rotor too. Is this all that's available today? and will the one piece rotors work as original to the car? I thought I'd ask if anyone has had this issue and what you did to fix it.
Thanks
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Two piece are the factory original. The one piece is all that is sold now. Unless you find some decent used ones on ebay or swap meet.
I havent used any one piece rotors, but I know many others who have.
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If you're doing a correct restoration then you'll need the two piece rotors but if the car's a driver, just install what's available. The orignals are bringing big $$ now because anyone doing a correct restoratoin wants them,
Jerry
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...as Jerry said, ...if it's a driver, you could easily go with the one piece rotors.
Since you mentioned your car is a '69, it may not be an issue, ...but if you use 1 piece rotors on a '67/'68 (ie. two piston calipers) you may need to turn the center hub area to clear the caliper. Again, ...may not be an issue on '69 (single piston caliper), ...but just thought to mention.
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It will be a driver. Thanks for the info!!!
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I have several sets of the two piece rotors (all from '69s)...several have good hubs with questionable rotors (too thin or warped)...is there any way to deal with the "bad" rotors so as to reuse the good hubs? Other than the above mentioned "good used" method, that is.
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Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I'd say, with a cost involved, you might find a machine shop that could weld metal to the existing rotor and machine it to the correct thickness so you could reuse the original rotors. I know they do it to crank shafts on heavy equipment. Just a thought...
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i once replaced my two piece for a single piece rotor and i had the issue of clearance between the caliper and the new rotor hub area...and also the rally wheel did not clear the caliper either. i was using four piston calipers by the way....i was young and i filed away material on the caliper to clear it......sorry it was my only car and i needed to get going. :'(
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I used 1 piece rotors on my 67 which has the original 4 piston calipers. I'd have to look but I think I got them from Vette brakes in Florida when I had them rebuild and resleeve the calipers. This was about 10 years ago. I had no clearance issues at all.
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Before I bought the present day replacement rotors I thought I'd see if I could get the split rotors that i have turned. They look to have enough metal left. They do have some deep rust pits though. Any one know what the minimum thikness is for a rotor?
Thanks...
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Original 2 piece rotors were .965 minimum.
Ed
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Thank you so much!!!
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The question still remains..is there any source for just the rotor? Is there a work around keep the rotors in service. I have at least 8 split rotors/hubs here some with issues (one wiht a warped rotor, one under sized, one with a bad bearing race)...the other s unknown. I can mix and match but it would be nice to end up with 8 usable two piece set ups.
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Just wanted to mention that you can cut original rotors down to about .930" without any issues. The .965" minimum is a very conservative value. I've used rotors at this .930" thickeness on my race car without any issues.
Jerry
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I don't have any fancy tools for measuring but used a 1" open end wrench for a guesstimate measurement. It fits but it's snug over the rotor so I mught just luck out and be able to use them again after machining. I was going to push the .965 anyway. It's nice to hear thinner will still work.
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Years ago I worked in a shop, and the rules were that we could only machine to the minimum size, but we were allowed to put pads on undersized rotors / drums as long as we did not machine past specs. Not to encourage borderline brakes, but if this is a show piece that will be driven lightly on and off the trailer, minor surface issues might be tolerated. (could cause pulling issues)
If it's a driver get them done right. It would be stupid to crash the car because you saved a couple bucks on the brakes.
Tom
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No problem going under the 965 value at all, when you get down to .900-920, then it's time to look for new ones.
JM
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I used the current 1-pc rotors on my car as my originals were too far gone to turn. Since I wasn't worried too much about 100% correctness and more worried about safety, I chose the 1-pc rotors. They work great with no clearance issues..............RatPack......................
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That is a real nice car Troy! 8)
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Sam, as always, Thank you! I had taken the wheels off for a show that I was getting ready for, and took that shot of the rotor for some reason. Here it is a few minutes later.................RatPack...................
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j185/ratpack68/ShadesofthePastRodRun09-09-06gettin.jpg)
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Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I'd say, with a cost involved, you might find a machine shop that could weld metal to the existing rotor and machine it to the correct thickness so you could reuse the original rotors. I know they do it to crank shafts on heavy equipment. Just a thought...
I thought I'd add to my quote above...I've been researching the add metal to the rotors as is done to a crank shaft idea. CAN'T be done. My source is several hi-tech machine shops that specialize in the welding of critical machine parts. The one that gave me the best answer to my question is a place called Aviation Welding in Bellingham, MA. They specialize in the welding and repair of turbine engine parts for aircraft engines.
A crank shaft has metal added to a jornal by a type of equiptment that actually sprays metal to the specificly controled heated area much like powder coating would be applied as it's spun. To do this to a rotor would be impossible to do because once the metal in a rotor was heated hot enough to accept welding it would be so brittle when it cooled it would break with the shock of a hard jab on the brakes. Not to mention they would always be out of round from the heating. The worst part of the job would be to even try it to see what would happed would cost over $1000.00 per rotor.
That's why they don't rebuild rotors. Need rotors? Buy new one piece rotors. By the way...I lucked out! My rotors machined and though they are on the edge of being under size I can still use them! ;D
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rotor thickness's (if i remember right) were laid down by the Fed Gov't for repair shops to use for a standard for safety-thin rotors dont take the heat as well and do provide a safety issue and shop owners(like i used to be-retired) went by these standards(for legal reasons-if you know what i mean)
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My original 2 piece rotors are about .990 - .995 and I can't get anybody to turn them down because they say that it won't clean up at .980. They say that .965 is the throwaway spec.
Anybody know of a place that will still turn these?
Jerry M. says they will be fine down to .930 but the trouble is finding someone to do it.
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Try a local machine shop and offer to pay cash so they are not held liable. Most will do it. If you still can't find one local, I can recommend a machine shop near me you can send them and the owner will do them. He has a few Camaros and loves to work on them.
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I just found a guy who will do it.
Thanks.