CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => Restoration => Topic started by: hihorse on June 14, 2022, 01:29:59 PM
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Is evaporust safe to use on exhaust manifolds?
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Why not? I just toss them in my cabinet blaster or use my pressure pot when doing big jobs.
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I only ask because I ruined a nice set of manifold's using muretic acid.
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Evaporust is the best. Knock off the loose stuff with a brush first. Works great....Joe
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Muriatic acid is a diluted form of hydrochloric acid, but still pretty nasty stuff. Evaporust is much less caustic and easier to work with, and eventually dispose of. You can get creative and use a heavy duty plastic bag and ties for large parts, to minimize the amount of Evaporust needed.
Electrolysis is another option for rust removal, probably cheaper but takes a little longer and some additional supplies. I've used this on pieces with real heavy rust.
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
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I'd suggest electrolysis and passivate with Evaporust. You'll use less metal doing it that way - plus, it's cheap. Plus, you'll get the inside of the manifolds if you leave the electrolysis going long enough, followed by the Evaporust. Find you some Arm and Hammer Baking Soda detergent, a large enough plastic container, a good battery charger, and get to work. Actually fun to do - and effective.
Steve
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When these castings were new, they were shot blasted in a Wheeabrator machine.
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Muriatic acid should not be used on steel parts. I"m guessing most on these sites do not this everyday. Slight corrosion on the inside manifolds? Who cares?
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Muriatic acid is a diluted form of hydrochloric acid, but still pretty nasty stuff. Evaporust is much less caustic and easier to work with, and eventually dispose of. You can get creative and use a heavy duty plastic bag and ties for large parts, to minimize the amount of Evaporust needed.
Electrolysis is another option for rust removal, probably cheaper but takes a little longer and some additional supplies. I've used this on pieces with real heavy rust.
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
I have a plastic 55gal drum set up for this purpose using this method. It works great!! I've used it on a lot of Lodge cast iron pots and pans.
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I am planning on a running a trial using CERACOAT on exhaust manifolds, I have thoroughly cleaned an exhaust manifold and will be blasting with garnet at 100# per ceracoat instructions.
Planning on mixing something close to a natural castiron look and also doing chevy orange for the flanges and bolts on Big block manifolds.
Looking for something to keep the appearance of a low mile survivor for a decade or more without maintenance.
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I am planning on a running a trial using CERACOAT on exhaust manifolds, I have thoroughly cleaned an exhaust manifold and will be blasting with garnet at 100# per ceracoat instructions.
Planning on mixing something close to a natural castiron look and also doing chevy orange for the flanges and bolts on Big block manifolds.
Looking for something to keep the appearance of a low mile survivor for a decade or more without maintenance.
I used Cerakote C Series on a set, but have yet to start the engine. You might try a 75-25 mix of Glacier Black and Glacier Silver. I went 50-50 and its a bit too silver but I'm going to stick with it. It sprays very nice. Did the front coil springs and going to do the leafs also.
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I did mine back in 2004. Nothing fancy - pretty straightforward.
1) Sandblasted
2) Treated with a rust removal/preventative product Eastwood had at the time called “OxySolve”. Have no idea if they still offer it.
3) Sprayed them with primer.
4) Finished it if wit hi temp paint.
Held up fairly well - probably have 10,000 miles on the engine since.
Richard