CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => Restoration => Topic started by: GaryL on April 05, 2007, 01:49:39 AM
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Has anyone ever used these? I know they are sold, but has anyone ever installed them? How?
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I bought a set and could not figure them out. What I did is take some stainless carriage bolts and cutdown the head so it matched the rivet shape. They look almost orig and wont rust and was a snap to put on!
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I have been looking for some rivets. Can you tell me where I can buy them?
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Rick's sells them (pg. 132 BU-72). I need a set, but am not quite sure if I can get the bumper and rivets in the press, so I've been holding off buying them. I still remember the difficulties with the rivets for the upper ball joints.
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I have not been able to find anyone that has set the rivets. I am going to thread the stud which is 1/4" and use a lock washer and nut I guess. It will look OK from the bottom. I am curious what JM does.
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I have a set of new rivets that I can let go cheap :) Here are some pics of my bumper rivet lookalike project. I used a nylon locknut and needle-nose pliers to hold the bolt during install.
(http://www.fototime.com/7346342CE3435B0/standard.jpg)
(http://www.fototime.com/B8734D77F30EC45/standard.jpg)
(http://www.fototime.com/54B6CB02DE86F49/standard.jpg)
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I had a set made based on the size of the rivets purchased from Rick's First Gen. Like others have mentioned, I was not sure how would install them so I had a set made with threads as shown in the picture. I painted them with OEM Paint brand black oxide paint.
The rivets I have seen on survivor cars appeared to be a dark phosphate plated but they may have tarnished over time so I am not exactly sure what finish they were originally. I have seen very fine restorations with rivets that were silver Zink or cadmium planted.
Can any one confirm the correct original finish of the rivets for 1969 Camaros?
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Are the rivets being discussed the ones that attach the license plate bulb bracket to the
bumper itself?
69er
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Heartbeat City sells reproduction rivets for $15.00/set:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=230098696453&rd=1&rd=1
Paul
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Yes, 69er. The question is has anyone really used the rivets and how are they smashed?
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i have used them and they worked fine. i just put a dolly under the head of the rivet and used a large punch and hammer to crush the rivet. did it on the floor of my garage with the bumper very well protected.
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i have used them and they worked fine. i just put a dolly under the head of the rivet and used a large punch and hammer to crush the rivet. did it on the floor of my garage with the bumper very well protected.
Did about the same thing, worked fine. I groud an old punch into a extra large center punch. Important to hold it square, get a helper. A good chance for you and the little women to spend some quality time together !
Mike
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I think that I could get someone to balance it on my vice and use a 1/2 rod to smash them.
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It took both my dad and me to install the rivets. Like stated above we took a ball-peen hammer and a couple punches and worked very slowly. I was very surprised how they turned out. Just take your time.
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I wanted to rivet on the rear bumper bracket as original and bought the reproduction rivets. They did not work for me because the top of the rivet you peen over was too small in diameter, would not fill the hole after peening. I made up my own, plated them dark phosphate, and installed them with an air hammer using a long punch. Here is a drawing of the rivets for future use and a picture of them installed. My originals did not have rings on the head like reproductions do and were dark phosphate.
I did not have a picture of the original rivet peened area so I am not sure what it looked like. George
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I used them during my 67 restoration. I took the bumper, bracket, and rivets to my friends machine shop. The bumper did fit in the press, and the whole job took 5 minutes. Looks factory. It does take a lot of pressure to crush them.
Buddy
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I chiseled off the original rivets and cut threads off an old bolt and had it welded on to the original rivet head and secured with a nut. That way if I ever want to re-chrome the bumper I can remove the bracket easily. No one will know unless they reach up inside the bumper.
Mike
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For those of you that used a carriage bolt with the head ground flat, what size (length & diam) stainless bolt did you use?
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I bought mine from ricks and welded them on. Worked great.
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Totally Stainless in Aspers, Pa. 1-717-677-8811 (totallystainless.com) sells a 5/16-24 x 0.7 flat top carriage bolt. It's part number 2-0773 and is intended for Ford stepside rear fenders. I ordered a few, & the dimensions are approx. 11/16 diam across the head, and 3/4 in. from the head to end of threads. It's in their on line catalog. Cost me all of .78/ea.
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I just went to Lowes/HD and looked through their selection until I found one that looked good, but I did not write down the size, sorry.
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I wanted to rivet on the rear bumper bracket as original and bought the reproduction rivets. They did not work for me because the top of the rivet you peen over was too small in diameter, would not fill the hole after peening. I made up my own, plated them dark phosphate, and installed them with an air hammer using a long punch.
I used the rivets on my '67 bracket, and put a 1/4 in. flat washer on the small section of the rivet, then peened the end with air hammer and flat head attachment. Worked great.
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I wanted to rivet on the rear bumper bracket as original and bought the reproduction rivets. They did not work for me because the top of the rivet you peen over was too small in diameter, would not fill the hole after peening. I made up my own, plated them dark phosphate, and installed them with an air hammer using a long punch.
I used the rivets on my '67 bracket, and put a 1/4 in. flat washer on the small section of the rivet, then peened the end with air hammer and flat head attachment. Worked great.
I have done the same washer trick several times also, this is the only way I know that works well to get them tight.
Mike