CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => General Discussion => Topic started by: WaltZ on November 18, 2020, 09:10:53 PM
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Best way for storage
A:up on stands with loose suspension with wheels off floor
B:or drive in and let it sit normally.
Thanks in advance
W
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B: you may want to increase the tire pressure by a few psi as well.
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You could always use a wheel skate, like these Northern Tool skates that help keep the tires from flat spotting. Short of putting it on jackstands, this to me would be the next best bet.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200729633_200729633?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Automotive%20%3E%20Wheel%20Dollies&utm_campaign=Ironton&utm_content=61133&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpujUo6yN7QIVI4VaBR01SwOREAQYAyABEgLks_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Otherwise, put a few extra pounds in the tires, and move it periodically to keep the tires round. Make sure and start the car every week or two, and warm it to operating temp to keep the fluids circulated - acids are fond of forming in oil over the winter, plus you need the rust preventative in the coolant to circulate occasionally. Spend a few dollars and buy some electronic rodent repellers, too - hate those danged things.
Regards,
Steve
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I place moth balls in old socks and leave them by the garage doors to keep rodents away.
Been using that for years.
Mike
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Not a good idea to let the suspension hang for long periods.
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Not a good idea to let the suspension hang for long periods.
I agree. Increase tire pressure and cover.
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I agree with the starting up and let it run, avoid putting any gas stabilizer in the tank. I used it once and it gummed up the bowls of my carb
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There are some Storage Threads that have good info/
"B" Leave suspension loaded as others have suggested.
In the PNW we use: Use Dri-Z-Air dehumidifier products to safely remove and absorb excess moisture and musty smells from the air.
Personally I use this YEAR round, it is Shocking the liquid that is reclaimed from the air. With Diligent monitoring and double spill protection Both my cars are Very well protected and absolutly No issues or moisture related maladies; Mold, Mildew, Smell, Insects, Rust, Funk etc. My garage is Heated, Insulated, Sheetrocked, Carpeted, and this product still this product pulls liquid AMAZING stuff.
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I have mine up on ramps and covered. I keep the heat at 50 degrees. I also put a fan in the front blowing under the car. It helps to keep the moisture away.
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I have mine up on ramps and covered. I keep the heat at 50 degrees. I also put a fan in the front blowing under the car. It helps to keep the moisture away.
If I did that with my car - my wife would divorce me in a New York minute!!!! LOL!!!! ;D
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I have mine up on ramps and covered. I keep the heat at 50 degrees. I also put a fan in the front blowing under the car. It helps to keep the moisture away.
That is another fabulous Trick, "Air movement" Esp in the buttoned up and air tight garage lacking supplied ventilations, Even a small cheap desk fan strategically placed allowing for some manner of cross space flow.- Great Tip there!
Jim
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I keep my car parked on on top of a tarp for years in my garage. It also is nice to have in case you need to get under the car and not get dirty plus in the winter you don't feel the cold ground as much. Plus, this eliminates any moisture from condensing underneath the car so you don't need a fan.
Mike
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I would be leery of leaving a fan on. Mice will not stick around if they can not smell their enemy ..moth balls gives a strong odor...I use a product called Fresh Cab..last for a couple of months then I replace it again..smells like potpourri in a way..and it's natural
" Fresh Cab is the ONLY botanical rodent repellent effective enough to be registered by the Federal EPA and trusted by licensed pest control experts for BOTH effectiveness and safety."
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I keep my car on a piece of carpet on a concrete floor. In late summer when the humidity is high here I’ll leave the ceiling fan on low for a few weeks. Most of the time no fan or any heat. My garage is well insulated so it doesn’t get very cold. Works for me.
67 L78
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Not a good idea to let the suspension hang for long periods.
WHY?
The LS6 that Dave Beem owned had 4300 miles and was stored on jack stands with the suspension hanging FREE for 35 years, IMHO the car's stance was correct where as other low mile LS6's stored with suspension compressed sat much lower, there were ZERO issues with means of storage, the bushings and springs appeared as new.
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Best way for storage
A:up on stands with loose suspension with wheels off floor
and if not WHY?
B:or drive in and let it sit normally.
Thanks in advance
W
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that's how I store it, on stands and loose suspension, makes sense to me.
like to know why some say to leave sitting and loaded.
Thanks again
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Make sure and start the car every week or two, and warm it to operating temp to keep the fluids circulated - acids are fond of forming in oil over the winter, plus you need the rust preventative in the coolant to circulate occasionally.
I would NOT recommend starting a car like that. The acids form when the engine is running. Sitting, nothing happens. You won't get the engine and the exhaust up to temp to burn off the acids, so you are just adding to them.
The coolant doesn't need to circulate, it's touching everything it needs to.
Do museums start up their cars? No......
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We have owned an '89 Camaro RS convert for 27 years. Same procedure every year: fill the tank, wood under the tires, battery tender, do not set the parking brake. Not started for at least 6 months, fires right up come spring.
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Fresh oil change prior to storage would be the only thing if storing for any length of time, that way there is not fouled oil sitting in the bearings and crank case.
We drive our cars at least once a month during the winters if not more, so it's not very frequently that they are sitting for more than a few weeks.
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I am a believer that some kind of humidity or climate control is the best thing you can do for indoor storage. My first garage was wood frame with no insulation and the windows would sweat at times summer and winter. My vette which except the 6 years prior to my ownership never stayed outside still developed frame rust from the inside. I am in NC by the way.
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I just placed my 69 Camaro in storage and spread mothballs on the floor. Today, I saw someone on YouTube doing an experiment with mothballs ato determine if it actually repelled mice. Nope, doesn't work to my dismay, nor does Irish Spring soap. Mint, peppermint or peppermint tea bags placed in the 4 corners of the garage worked the best. Check it out on YouTube. I have my wife checking to see if we have any of that stuff right now.
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Mothballs are for moths... :) ... I also have heard that when dropped into gasoline will increase the octane.... :)
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My routine for Michigan winters. I have an un-heated insulated and finished garage. Same routine for 8 years with no issues. It works for me.
Around the first week in November: Starting with a thoroughly cleaned and detailed car. I fill the tank with Premium gas, add Stabil Long term Storage stabilizer (use Stabli 360 for everyday use), change oil, pull the battery and put on my work bench, hook battery to a Noco battery maintainer, over-inflate tires 5#, roll windows down 6 to 8", place OmniDry desiccant packs inside cab & in trunk, cover car with a good quality car cover, place car in a CARJACKET CarBag with additional OmniDry desiccant packs placed in various areas underneath the car, place anti fatigue rubber matting under all tires and zip up bag to seal in. Remove car in April/May. Note, you will have a slight fuel smell when first unzipping the bag however no worries it will quickly dissipate and there will be no lasting side effects.
https://www.carbag.com/carjacket/
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I have tried about everything. Fresh Cab seems to work best for keeping mice away. But nothing is fool proof.
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Make sure and start the car every week or two, and warm it to operating temp to keep the fluids circulated - acids are fond of forming in oil over the winter, plus you need the rust preventative in the coolant to circulate occasionally.
I would NOT recommend starting a car like that. The acids form when the engine is running. Sitting, nothing happens. You won't get the engine and the exhaust up to temp to burn off the acids, so you are just adding to them.
The coolant doesn't need to circulate, it's touching everything it needs to.
Do museums start up their cars? No......
I tend to think more in terms or keeping oil films intact on bearings and internal rotating assemblies. You're correct about coolant, but if there are any internal coolant passages not covered, it's gonna rust/oxidize. Hoses can deteriorate. Hydraulic lifters can bleed down, valve springs can take a "set" when compressed over long periods of time. True, you need to get the engine up to operating temps to drive off the moisture formed during the combustion process, which doesn't help anything if it builds up in the engine or exhaust systems. If you can't do that due to the locale and long term bad weather - you're correct. Let it sit.
Some museums and collectors will store/display vehicles "dry", prep them only when they need to be driven. I was surprised to see that during one prominent collection auction in TN a few years back - the auction magazine stated that fact well before the auction that all of the vehicles sold would need complete servicing before starting or use due to no coolant or fluids installed. Bummed out the people that wanted to hear things run - but didn't affect the auction proceeds.
Just my opinions - works for me.
Regards,
Steve
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I once didn't drive a car which has hydraulic lifters for about 6 months and when I started it, the lifters had bled-down and for a few seconds, it was louder than the solid lifters in my 1970 BOSS 302!
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Been storing 35 + years this way, minus battery, Stabil added, visors down, mats out, Irish Spring in, Damp Rid, on wood, car covered, and into the bag it goes. Comes out perfect every year.
Steve
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My brother's corvette was stored for 30 years inside a car bag with desiccant bags... the frame is beautiful on his car.
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I know a guy that had a 67 L78 Chevelle and he would start it once a week during winter storage and let it run a few minutes. Then one time he hit the key switch to start it and “Boom!!”. Internal engine explosion. It puffed out the valve cover, blew valve cover “, intake , carb, distributor gasket out. Even the pan gasket. He was lucky it didn’t catch fire and burn everything.
I think the Holley carb some how let gas seep down into the engine or fuel pump failure will pump gas into the bottom end. Who knows but it happened.
I never start my car during winter storage.
1967 4K
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Some overthink this. Every car I've ever owned was simply parked for six months and fired up with no issues come spring. '67 I've owned since 1984 has been parked for three years. Daily driver in the summer. Once in a while I'll fire it up if I have to move it. I get it up to temp and shut it down. I add Startron but had no issues with the carb when I didn't.
My friend and his wife own about sixty cars. Some are parked for years, some get driven more often. Never an issue and he does nothing to winterize his cars. Muscle Car Review wanted to do an article on his survivor 440 Six Pack Shaker Hood Challenger. That car sat longer than I can remember. Tossed in a battery, primed the carb and sparked it up. Never skipped a beat.