CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => General Discussion => Topic started by: Tinkerr on October 04, 2020, 11:58:11 PM
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I need to remove spray bomb paint from my original fan shroud. I'm hesitant to use paint stripper on plastic, not sure about glass beading. Any ideas, advice? Thanks
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I would do a test for washing it off with a paint solvent like 'paint thinner', mineral spirits, or lacquer thinner'...
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What Year, AC or Non AC,
Reason I ask some replacement Shroud look pretty good and GM units avail,
I know NOT the answer you are seeking, Purchase replacement.
I still think Lloyds Vapor Blaster should be one of the Best options, the Leno Garage video said that method if EVEN plastic friendly.
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68 non ac SS396
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If it's original GM, I don't have to tell you to be careful whatever you use. OE GM shrouds for 67-68 BB applications are not cheap, few and far between in opportunities to find a good one.
I've used DOT 3 brake fluid to strip really stubborn spray paint from armrest bases before - did not damage the plastic base or texture, wrinkled the paint up and allowed me to scrub it off with a dish soap rinse and soft brush. I tried it first on a couple of beat up bases, worked really great but it's a little sloppy - best done out-of-doors in sunlight to accelerate the process. If all else fails, you might try a drop on an inconspicuous place and see if it does any good. If it's epoxy, nothing short of dynamite might work. Just my opinion -
Regards,
Steve
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Steve is Correct on both accounts;
Fresh DOT3 from a Box Store, I used to be a "Model Railroader" and Stripped plastic Atlas/Athearn & Tyco locomotives to repaint in my local livery, DOT3 did the job and did not harm the models fine details, if worked carefully and not left submerged for days.
Jim
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Easy Off oven cleaner.
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I know easy off takes paint off but I'm concerned about damaging the plastic. I wetted it down with brake fluid earlier so far no success.
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I've used Easy Off on interior plastic windshield pillar posts with no damage to the plastic.
Mike
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I did try Easy Off before I ended up with the brake fluid. The oven cleaner had no effect on the paint that I could see, so I went with brake fluid. Once it gets under the top "skin" of the paint, it'll accelerate wrinkling the paint up where you can safely remove it. Here again, it may have different effects on different paints, but I remember what it did to my X77's driver side fender two days after I bought it in 1973 - a drop spilled went right through the lacquer before I could grab a rag and wipe it off. Mortified, cost me $80.00 in '73 to have the paint spotted at the dealership. I've respected it's devious paint removing powers ever since -
Regards,
Steve
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Purple Power, but you have to let it soak for a bit :) Might work for you depending on the type of paint.
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I've used lacquer thinner on shrouds for years and had had no issues. To make you feel better, I just tried it on an NOS shroud and there was no damage. If you're scared, just apply a little to the inside as a test; it's not going to melt. FWIW, there are two types of oven cleaners. Yellow and Blue can. Recently stripped off all the enamel lettering on a panel truck as I've been doing for decades.
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Yellow works better than the blue...
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One thing I failed to mention is when I sprayed oven cleaner on the plastic parts, I loosely covered it with Saran Wrap to prevent it from drying out too quickly.
Mike
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This was my latest oven clean job last week. It is the spare in the Z28. Was spray bombed pretty bad. Put 1 coat of Easy Off on. let set about 2 min then spray again and check with fingernail till soft. I use a soft bristle brush to take the paint off with water. Then repeat the whole thing 1 more time. Took all of the spray bomb off and left the factory paint fairly nice. I have used it on high end race cars to take hand painted names off the sides with no damage to the paint. Just have to catch it as soon as it softens up and spray 2-3X. Have also used a dull plastic bondo spreader to carefully scrap with in the past.
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I started with brake fluid, had some success, moved to oven cleaner, with minimal success. I went back to brake fluid with ceramic heater in close proximity and that was quite effective. The heat seem to accelerate the process. It's 60-70 degrees during the day so leaving outside in the sun wasn't a option. Now to epoxy 2 cracks then add my own paint. Thanks for the help.
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Good news, but I think the epoxy will fail. The shroud is ABS (semi-flexible plastic). Epoxy is hard plastic. Eventually the interface will crack. ABS crack fixing is better with ABS welding techniques (melt ABS rod into the crack while melting edges with soldering iron). My .02
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Pardon me for adding another $.02 worth - request a quote from Instrument Specialties to repair/refinish the shroud. I know there are good repros available now for the 67-68 BB shrouds, but OE GM shrouds are still the holy grail for those owners who still pine for an OE shroud. I've seen shrouds that needed a lot of repair go for stupid money, and NOS ones command prices that would make a good down payment on a new Camaro. Just a suggestion, of course it really depends on what you want as an owner/restorer. Might be worth it -
Regards,
Steve
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I did a little research on repairing ABS and the consensus seem to be epoxy won't create a permanent bond as mentioned(Kevin), It's to brittle and won't bond with the ABS, just sits there until it pops off. Turns out the universal glue used for PVC,CPVC plumbing also works for ABS. If you've done any plumbing you know the glue melts the pieces together, making a strong bond. I'm going to attempt to find a donor shroud(for a compatible piece) and reinforce the cracked corners from the underside using the plumbing glue.
I contacted Instrument Specialties about repairing the shroud. 3 month and $300. I may go this route If my repair does not meet my standards and or the repo's are not satisfactory. Thanks
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Sometimes it is also wise to drill a small hole slightly larger than the crack at it's end. This will stop the damage from spreading further. I realize you might be possibly welding the plastic, but if it were me; I would do this for just piece of mind. You never really know how the repair to plastics will last due to vibration and if it did fail for whatever reason, it may only go as far as the hole that was drilled. I have had success doing this over the years.