CRG Discussion Forum

Camaro Research Group Discussion => Restoration => Topic started by: hihorse on February 17, 2020, 04:16:03 PM

Title: '69 396 Smog tube repair
Post by: hihorse on February 17, 2020, 04:16:03 PM
Has anyone attempted to repair a smog tube end (at the manifold)?  if you were successful ,how did you do it?
Title: Re: '69 396 Smog tube repair
Post by: 169INDY on February 17, 2020, 06:57:59 PM
They tend to ROT from the inside out, if your tube is a older as built in service one for years you would be amazed how thin and spindly they are, even just loosening the retention nut can twist a tube out of shape. I have had to just order replacements from Hodel and did a block off plug in the manifold and de'vane the pump to keep the look but not the function. The ends have a flare to them, but if you are inclined I would guess a possible harvest and braze graft repair is possible not sure how you could cover it up.
Title: Re: '69 396 Smog tube repair
Post by: z28z11 on February 18, 2020, 05:34:20 AM
They tend to ROT from the inside out, if your tube is a older as built in service one for years you would be amazed how thin and spindly they are, even just loosening the retention nut can twist a tube out of shape.

Amen, I've removed a bunch of tubes over the years and found this statement to be true. Salvaged a few, you really have to be careful as the fittings seize on the tube itself and lock up - when you get the threads free in the manifold, you can spiral a tube quickly if it won't break loose from the corrosion bond between the tube and the nut. Kroil or PB Blaster soaked liberally beforehand help, slow and careful moves work best.

You can repair the tubes if you are handy with a TIG or MIG welder - source the proper pre-flared pipe end (brake lines) from your local parts store, find a smaller tube that slips inside the cut and sectioned pipe to support the tube internally, very slight chamfer to each side to allow weld penetration, TIG or MIG stitch on the lowest heat setting until you have the joint filled, and you're set to grind off the excess and coat the pipe. You'd be surprised how effective it is.

After all that, a better suggestion is to buy the best reproduction you can while they are still available. The '67-'68 small blocks are gone, nobody does them anymore - likely indicative of the shrinking market. '69 small and BB are the only first gens left, who knows how long they'll last.

Regards,
Steve
Title: Re: '69 396 Smog tube repair
Post by: x66 714 on February 18, 2020, 11:11:05 AM
Once you get it repaired you can make it non-functional by deveining the pump, put a BB in the hose that goes to the diverter valve, & put clevis pins in the tubes. Remove the long tube that goes into manifold. The clevis pin will provide a working seat for the manifold. If it has a/c on your big block you will have to weld up the numbers 6 & 8. Mine have been this way for close to 75k miles..Joe
Title: Re: '69 396 Smog tube repair
Post by: hihorse on February 18, 2020, 02:58:26 PM
thank-you, appreciate the experiences that are shared.
Title: Re: '69 396 Smog tube repair
Post by: firstgenaddict on February 29, 2020, 02:26:59 PM
I repaired the end of one tube on my survivor Corvette smog system. Used a brake flare kit did the first part of the double flare then flattened the flare instead of making it a 45 deg.
To flatten it I used a 1/2" dia tube with the side cut out and hammered the fitting against a brass block...
IT took MORE time than it was probably worth, however it is original only once.