CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => Originality => Topic started by: SS396 on June 23, 2018, 01:34:47 AM
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What are all you restoration experts out there using to prevent rust on bare steel parts? I've seen the Exo-Armour, Rust Prevention Magic and Boeshield T-9 being advertised and the reviews don't seem too bad. Any members out there using these products or know of better ways to address the issue. Up until now I've been just applying a light coat of oil to parts with a rag but it attracts a lot of dirt.
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It would help people give advice if we knew which parts and what your goal is...??
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I have used RPM and would not recommend it near heat. On my rear springs the exhaust melted it off. My hemi in my GTX did the same thing to my master cylinder. I have another product that i used on bolts. you brush on but i will have to look at the container, i cant think of the name. RPM worked ok away from the heat but time consuming to apply
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This is the other product i use. I don't remember if I've used it in near heat either. It's real nice to take a small paint brush and dab on bolt heads though. I had read another member had used it. One other thing I should mention, I used some Eastwood low gloss clear on my drive shaft to protect the natural finish. It was for bare metal and the exhaust pipe heat has melted that off or damaged it and I had some surface rust starting on that drive shaft
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I've been using Dry-Touch since the 80's. It goes on wet.....then...well....dries to the touch :-)
Mike
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Mike i have a feeling your post is the one i saw that had me try it
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Anyone here tried Sharkhide?
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Anyone here tried Sharkhide?
Tim,
I’ve used Sharkhide on many parts including my gas tank. Goes on clear, dries clear. Been 3 years and still looks great.
Bob
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It would help people give advice if we knew which parts and what your goal is...??
Like Gary said.
I've had good luck with sharkhide and restoguard dry. Had some spotting on my leafsprings and switched to rem-oil(CHP tip). Rem-oil also comes in towelettes. Seems like the porous surfaces prefer hydrocarbon based products where smooth prefer alcohol based(sharkhide) Just an observation. Like Bill stated, high temp is an issue, dont know who is producing the best high temp clear. VHT, Rustoleum?
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Thanks Bob - looks great!
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I have some rem oil does it dry or attract dust forever?
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I have some rem oil does it dry or
attract dust forever?
I ordered both the spray and the wipes. Shot the spray between the leaves, wiped excess. 1 wipe goes a long way, leaving a pretty thin coating, but a coating none the less. Now the car is stored on the lift, and I walk under it every time I'm out back, daily. I have not noticed excess dust buildup, like say from using WD 40. I have sandy soil, a long gravel drive and am surrounded by farmland, so dust is a constant battle on everything. Paired with living by the lake, might as well be in the tropics during the summer.Any metal not properly protected will begin to show corrision quickly.
Back to the gun oil, like I said, it looks like alittle goes a very long way, using sparingly probably decreases the dust attraction. Give the wipes a try, see what you think. Appeared to dry(or absorbed)on my leaf springs.
Like your's Bill, my sway bar began to show signs of corrision pretty quick. After re-blueing it, and a generous amount of restoguard rubbed in, it's been fine.
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Amsoil also sells a product like restoguard. Probably the same stuff. A few years ago original owner of my Z sent me a care package with a can of it.(he is a regional rep). Used it on my boat's outdrive and prop. Good product.
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I have a can that I think is restorgard and it is the wet version not the dry. It didnt act like it would dry. I think they sent me the wrong stuff.
I blued my sway bar twice and never got it to stay. This was with never being on the road.
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For those of you who have experience with Dri-Touch or Sharkhide,
1. What is the drying time? and
2. What is the resulting gloss / sheen when dry?
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Sharkhide only takes minues, evaporates quick. I apply on my bolt heads with a cotton ball. Restoguard dry quiet a bit longer, never timed but around 15 minutes. Both really add not much of a sheen, however restoguard yellows if applied too heavy. I spray into a lint free rag and wipe in. End of the day, both products depend on proper prep for performance. Any trace oxidation will begin to bleed through, no matter what the ads state.
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Dri touch dries pretty quick. Here is a 2002 WS6 trans am i have. I dont think you can tell anything was done
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Thanks to everybody for your feedback on the products you use and your experience with them. Lots of likes here for the Sharkhide, which I'm leaning towards, but damn it's expensive in Australia. Cheapest price I can find for 1 quart is AU $160. Ouch.
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damn it's expensive in Australia. Cheapest price I can find for 1 quart is AU $160. Ouch.
That through PPC Co? Then you have to add in courier charge too..... yikes.
There used to be an Aus distributor for Sharkhide on the Central Coast, but I think he folded. I should have bought some when it was for sale at ~$75/litre a few years ago.
You might try boating supply companies in your state, Sharkhide seems quite popular for protecting alum tinnies. I've also found Boeshield T-9 at local bike stores.
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Yes Tim, on eBay Australia. Maybe the Australian distributors got rich selling Sharkhide and retired :) I will ring around and see if anybody can sell me some at a better price. If I find anybody cheaper I'll let you know.
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Tim,
I purchased my Sharkhide from Eastwood...
https://www.eastwood.com/sharkhide-aluminum-protectant-quart.html
Not sure what the shipping cost to Australia might be though.
Bob
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One of the TC & CRG members (Kevin W, ??) had pics of some steel coupons that he treated with Boeshield and a competitor. He hung them outside for a few years and showed the changes. I think it was on TC.
One worked much better at rust prevention.