CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => Originality => Topic started by: Tx-Z 302 on October 29, 2017, 10:25:43 PM
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Can anyone post a known original pic of the gt stamping and any ways to tell real from repro ? Kinda in a hurry I'm bidding on one that says original gm but the guy selling really doesn't know. Thanks in advance
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Black outer bracket "GT"
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Well now I know what to look for I am going to bid on it Chris
j/k
I hope you get it. Hard to find original parts these days.
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The reproduction is pretty good but the font is smaller than originals so be careful your not purchasing a repro but spending $ for an original. Here is a comparison of the two sized fonts, i.e. larger font being original to our 68Z.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4495/38098431881_b421ee4439_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/213Cqtc)100_5352 (https://flic.kr/p/213Cqtc) by Chick Renn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/157813684@N02/), on Flickr
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Thx chick, the one I bid on was like you right pic with the small fatter GT. I asked him to remove my bid and he did.
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The edges are different as they are flame cut. The originals are stamp cut out....Joe
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The edges are different as they are flame cut. The originals are stamp cut out....Joe
That's a good point Joe but can be easily erased with some edge work. The stamp is probably the best key.
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Great pics Chick, that what this site is all about. You just saved Chris from over bidding there. WTG!
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I'm in the market if anyone has an original ....I don't mind paying a fair price thx
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Nice job Chick. I am not an expert and was taught this info a while back, probably by YOU, or someone on this site I'm sure.
For me, this is the best way. What I have retained in the past is the G. The spacing from the lower part at the 90 bend, to the top of the roll around is MUCH taller. The repro is VERY close in that spot. Easy to spot in one second. Good luck in your search. Danny
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The edges are different as they are flame cut. The originals are stamp cut out....Joe
That's a good point Joe but can be easily erased with some edge work. The stamp is probably the best key.
You can certainly "erase" them but it is very difficult to re-create the original stamped edge "break" look. Basically, about 1/3 of the side of the edge should be shiny and the remaining 2/3's will inset from the edge very slightly and be rough. Not sure of any of the repops on any part like this will go through the trouble of building a true stamping die to cut the blank. If they were to go through that much effort, getting the font right would be a piece of cake.