CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => Restoration => Topic started by: lemarin on September 06, 2017, 05:33:06 AM
-
when I had my Camaro restored few years back, I've put a repro brake booster kit, from hbc. It works fine even if it's a booster for disc/drum, but now I'd like to have an original booster.
My RS Camaro, according to the POP has no power brakes originally. The previous owner decided to convert to power brake, so I'd like to continue that way. I do have 4 drums brakes, front and rear. So I'm looking for power brake, with four drums.....originally as much as possible, which parts are required ?
-I've found an original restored brake booster, casting 3972
-I'm trying to find an original master cylinder, which should be casting 5460465. If I can't find one, I may use this one instead:
https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1969/chevrolet/camaro/parts/mc36233a.html
Wha do you guys think about this one from eBay (only the cylinder part): http://www.cafr.ebay.ca/itm/1971-Olds-Cutlass-Fback-Brake-Master-Booster-5460465/142498292422?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Otherwise, what other parts are required to complet my "brake booster" restoration ? What are the casting / part number ?
proportioning valve ?
line ?
distribution braket ?
Right now I'm using the following kit on my car: http://www.heartbeatcitycamaro.com/store/product/25780/1967-1968-1969-Camaro-%26-Firebird-Power-Brake-Booster-%26-Disc-Brake-Master-Cylinder-Kit-With-11%22-Gold-Iridite-Booster-With-Replacement-Style-Master-Cylinder/
Any comment and help are appreciated !
-
These might be helpful - booster and master cylinder p/n, etc. given in an embedded link in the first link. 2nd link has other forum links that may be helpful.
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=10755.msg82925#msg82925
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=5983.msg38948#msg38948
Richard
-
Thanks Richard, I appreciated. I'm ok with the booster, I do have one in restoration right now, and the date is slightly earlier than expected but it's ok.
It seems that the master cylinder has been used with many application. The link to eBay I put above, is the same casting number, but for an 1971 Oldsmobile.
Do you guys would trust it, used in that state ? Not sure I want to invest in a master cylinder rebuilt....
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/wccAAOSw5ulZrtdg/$_57.JPG)
-
Personally, I would rebuild the MC. Brakes aren't something to try and cut costs on.
-
After mine was sleeved I rebuilt the rest of it. not a hard thing to do
-
is there any place where they rebuilt those master cylinder ?
-
somebody knows what should be the code for the Camaro 69 drum brakes front and rear master cylinder? The casting number should be 5460465, but there's a lot of application using this casting number, what are the main difference ?
Like the eBay item I post just above is for an Oldsmobile.....with the same 5460465 casting number. Would it be ok ? If not why ? What's the difference ?
-
If you already have the master cylinder try NAPA for a rebuild kit. Might need to buy a dingleberry hone but they are pretty simple to rebuild.
-
If you search the forums there are probably a lot of places that rebuild the mc's and re-sleeve with stainless.
-
I would concur with the suggestion to check with NAPA for a rebuild kit. That is where I got my rebuild kit. Disassembly is easy. A little air into the port in the bottom of the reservoir will push both the primary and secondary pistons out if they are stuck. I was lucky with mine - did not require resleaving. Just a clean up and light honing of the cylinder with a brake cylinder hone.
Biggest issue was "gunk" which was the result of moisture entering the system. I am a very big fan of DOT 5 silicone brake fluid. Eliminates that problem and if you happen to dribble a little on a painted surface, no problem. Pic shows my master cylinder after disassembly. Also, don't forget that there are check valves behind the brake line connections to hold some pressure in the lines when your foot is off of the brake - keeping the shoes just barely in contact with the drums. That way when you push on the brake pedal, the shoes don't have to move as far to fully engage the drums.
Good luck
Richard