CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => Restoration => Topic started by: 169INDY on June 30, 2017, 05:55:11 AM
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Built Dec/Jan 1967/1968
Broken 1979
Restoration Started 2004
Restoration Re-Started 2017
Looking forward to continuing Rogers Great work!
Perfect Retirement project in 2 years, when I break out of the J.O.B.
I will be pestering a bunch of you for a while. ???
Jim W
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Looks like it will be a fun project and love those early 68 Z's with the 302 fender emblems. Now start to take inventory of what you have and what you might need. ;D
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The Nice thing it was complete and fairly stock when broke in 79'
Roger started a 13 year restoration & I am proud to continue.
I will be posting a bunch of as found in 2004 (Or as he disassembled the car) & parts as collected.
Since it was parked outside in 79' in the PNW most colors and finishes suffered. (Esp the Orange stripe re-painting funny!)
But the Huge positive is it was intact when roger took it apart and he KEPT & Labeled EVERYTHING.
You are going to see errors and not MCACN level compromises along the journey.
Jim
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Great project. More pics! Every car doesnt need nor have to be a "MCACN level" restoration. Build it the way you want and enjoy it!
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Look forward to seeing this car come together.
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OK, Just got back from the Seattle SOVERN Historic's racing at Pacific Raceways, When group 3 ran the hair stood up on my neck.
OK. I go pick up the car Sunday
But lets start by posting some disassy pics Roger took in 2004.
Keep a keen eye on the 1968 clues as I do not have any paper on this car.-
Plus a few head scratchers.
OK As Broke (Parked) in 1979 & Found in 2004 by Roger.
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Sorry about the spastic "OK's
Excited to leave w/ trailer & get her in the garage.
LOS 12E (JAN ____ 1968 production date) NCRS shippers on order will * Update when received.
JIM
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Last TABS (WASHGINTON) AUG 1979.
JIM
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Great find. Great pics, keep them coming.
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:)
Got it Safely Home & in position.
Will start scanning his print photos and post some disassy pictures he took as he tore it apart.
JIM
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Here is a foggy pic of the Tic-Toc-Tac face (6K red line) back has a build date silk screen date of W7/26/1967
Riddle #1
Rare SS Z28 wonder how & when the SS horn button got stuck on?
I really will enjoy a Red interior
Jim
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Jim can you post up the trim tag info and vin? My LOS car was 12D and 320495.
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Trim Tag Photo
* Note the booster in this pic is a re-pop. The Orig # 9078 dtd Julian 326 is on the shelf*
VIN 320777 need to snap a pic (Going off Memory right now)
Jim
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might be dumb but is Gilmore Rogers last name?
Should we know him?
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Bill, I just nicknamed the Car, Probably silly of me, no real historical significance outside of the local (Kitsap County Wa) history. I have known about the car since 2004 but the amazing part is it sat (broken) from 1979-2004. Dang Rust. His (Roger's) uncle passed away last year & I am finishing Rogers Gilmores good work..
He told me his aunt & uncle traded in a super beetle for the Camaro & Roger remembers riding around in the Z in town with his aunt driving, made an impression on him. I might be a bit enthusiastic as I have not purchased a Camaro since they were giving them away in 1984. This project will be so much fun. For me I sold a 1967 230cu 4 speed car in 84' & rowing gears has been limited to S10's & Toyotas.
Tons more pics to post.
Thanks for asking. I sure wish it had 12900 miles like yours.
This car has 86,314 for a basic 10 year period. Seems the PNW elements were harder on it,,,,
Jim
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I have had nicknames for my car but probably would get banned from the site!!
My car wasnt perfect that is why I had it painted. I know it sat in the original owners garage a long time but later in its life it was in a pole barn. I have a feeling it wasnt cleaned up real good and sat where there was condensation.
Good luck with your project. These cars are easy to work on and endless information and encouragement by the guys on here
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Pretty cool..
3 Z's built within a day of one another..
Mine & another that was recently for sale.
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Seems the PNW elements were harder on it,,,,
Jim
Very hard.
I grew up West of Portlandia in a small town and bought a 68SS in '76. 8 years old and it looked like it was stored underwater all 8 years.
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What is broken, and how bad?
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ENGINE:
The "MO" is gone in 1969 replaced by CE motor short block CE 9A 49906. So can I assume an early owner made a warranty claim?
It is what it is,,,but it will stay that way unless some magical miracle the orig motor shows up.
Trans:
The as built M21 w/ tag, stamp, & vin is intact & rebuilt.
Rear End:
The 12 bolt was long gone. So when roger bought it in 2004 is had a rusty 10 bolt in it. So here is where it get interesting. A local guy parted out a plumb 1967 Z28 ( Story no proof) in the 80's and harvested many Z Parts, including a "PU" coded 12 bolt. Roger bought it cut off the traction arm mount, removed the mon leaf spring mounts and welded on multi's and rebuilt it and installed in this car, So Not a technically correct item, but I am not worried in the least.
When speaking to the HURT part of the story; Roger told me his Uncle spun a rod bearing in 1979 and parked it to fix it someday which never came around and the car sat outside till 2004, that time & PNW moisture surface rusted a lot of parts not to mention the frigging RAIN, oh this place feels like Alaska sometimes.......
but I am getting ahead of myself.
Jim
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Here are some scans of print photos, as he took the car apart (2004)
Lots of great clues to originality but some finishes were severely altered by the elements, however I get a sense of how untouched it seems. I will be asking for some opinions on anomalies relating to the assy deviations I 'think' I see & want some clarification and input. I hope there is some value to others and reference to include my goals of returning it to its former glory.
Front end & eng compt.
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More
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Thanks for the explanation. I see a lot of right parts. You know the story of what happened to the car, anything else is just BS. Have fun!! Keep us updated.
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More Shots as disassembled in 2004
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...
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Neat car Jim and thanks for sharing the pics and the story. My brother had a C-C, 724 interior '68 Z that was originally from Washington State (Marysville, if I remember correctly). I should have bought from him but I didn't have the funds at the time. I love the color combo.
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Nice to hear from you. Thanks. I think the combo with the black top is going to appeal to me & hope others,,,,Ha I have a red car and am looking forward to the white-black-red combo
Now a 67/68 question.
Notice this picture, the pass side valve cover breather nipple (Pipe) to valve cover is straight like a 1967 (?) I thought it should be a 90 degree steel nipple, however HEARTBEAT offers a 1967 ONLY hose that has the bend in it. Could this be a hold over or assy anomaly or owner servicing modification?
Part number # GM 3916380
Jim
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Mine has the 90* elbow and hose, but to tell the truth it and others don't exactly fit as the parts would lend themselves the best to fit. Meaning my hose gets straightened a little and seemed like it would fit better with a straight shot into the valve cover rather than the 90. I know this isn't an answer per se, but it could be someone thought like me and just changed it before knowing or caring about correct restoration parts.
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Here is a shot from the drivers side.
Note* The Carb was found to be a 1969 Holley 4346 Carburetor
2nd shot notice the "oil" line thru the spedo grommet
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That passenger side valve cover fitting and hose are not original to the car and would appear to be an owner servicing modification.
Is the throttle rod on backwards with the thicker part toward the front?
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Possibly (Throttle rod), lets look at a few more angles.
Additionally, when the bypass clamps are shown are they the 67 style vice 68 as detailed in Jerry's book.
Jim
Ah ha, I think I see the orig hole in the firewall for the oil sender line, might have been re-routed during the warranty motor r/r/r (Remove/Repair/Replace)
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OK, in the first photo above it looks like the fatter part of the throttle rod is in the back like it's supposed to be. I found it hard to tell in the other photos.
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Here are some more.
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... including the tune up sticker preserved (not removed & masked during blast-prime-paint when restoring the rad support)
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Resto Tip
Made some Powerpoint & MS Word 2" x 4" sticky Avery Labels for re-marking and tracking the million sandwich bags the car is spread apart in.
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Did you see the thread on distributors? It looks like you have a 266 and if original , Chick would like some info on it.
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Did you see the thread on distributors? It looks like you have a 266 and if original , Chick would like some info on it.
Yes, I got him the data & a good Pic Post CHP restoration & curve(ing) of the Dizzy.
I am missing the Orig Carb, Smog, Manifolds, bellhousing. Everthing else seems to be there.
One reason might be the ANTI theft Modification a previous owner made.
I think he had a cable ran thru the firewall to a handle to extend and retract the Latch stop he custom made. Neat idea.
Jim
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Some Interior shots, interesting patterns, prime, paint and rust.
Surprisingly not a lot of rust repair was need or accomplished. Honestly I need to ask roger HOW they stored it, outside but under a carport?
Jim
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Sorry about the sideways
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Tire sticker "AY"
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That's an interesting shift boot.
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That's an interesting shift boot.
That's the correct shift boot. No longer made or reproduced.
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Wow nice great color combo... can't wait to see it back in it's former glory.
I love red gut cars...
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More disassembly
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More
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more..
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Something current. (Alt heading out for rest & Will have to mix Orig bracket with repop)
Alt & Bracket (Only have the rear 1/2 of the bracket assy)
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Some underbody shots, Heavy LOS overspray.
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Plating teaser- Zinc Dichromate (ASTM D478-02).
Credit Vendor TCP Plating Portland Ore. 12/2017.
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Red Deluxe seatbelts Option (RPO AK1) Early 68 Coupe.
Credit Vendor: Snake Oyl
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More..
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More....
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Some More
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A small restoration item.
Glass beaded window guides, Bright Zinc plated, Cut Ballistic Nylon Fabric & glued to finish repair.
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Every time I see 'Gilmore' I can't help but think of the movie Happy Gilmore :)
Mike
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Lol
I need to post more "Happy" Pics of the progress
Good one Mike
Jim
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a) Booster (Numbers matching) back from Vendor.
b) body floor plugs back from plater
c) WT stamp on Master
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Some Door shots I think someone was asking about the overspray on the inside of the door, (They might have been asking about 69, but here is a los 68)
& Spray shields, front & back (i.e. inside and out) Both had a black sealant with white string in middle.
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Booster looks awesome. Keep the progress shots coming. I love watching other projects. It’s motivation.
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Been a Very slow start to Spring so I have been working on a few indoor items.
Rear qtr windows, Lot of Evapo Rust, elbow grease, wire brush, steel wool, silicone lube, lithium lube, Boe-SHield T9, Rubber dressing, Soap & Water, etc.
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I purchased a replacement (USED) 403 re-usable condition alum S.B. Bellhousing at a local swap meet.
I gave it a cleaning in the solvent tank, then a low pressure blasting in a Glass Bead cabinet, Purposely left "some" orig orange overspray, found little to none down low. Interesting; chased threads but found the original pivot very worn & removal required propane heat to the front side and candle wax to wick and act as penetrant to get it to release its grip on the threads. Nice little pop & out it came. I gave the alum a wash down with Alum cleaner (acid) DX rinse and then the Alum DX-501 conditioner brightener- Bam Looks good for my use. New pivot, boot and fork.
Was fun little project
Jim
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A-arm shields, Soap & water, gentile nylon brush then a little Welseys (sp) and 303 cleaner followed up with a Napa tire dressing. I did need to replace the damaged pass side, just traced and cut out from some masticated rubber that has been discussed on the site in another thread.
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Clutch for Fan received back from rebuilder.
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Scored a set of headers (Reproduction Kustom 68'version) from Colorado Supplier (I was inspired by Seeing Chicks car at MCACN Chicago Show a few years ago.) Need to get them off to a specialty coater for flat black treatment.
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8) wow !!!!! 8)
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In production, the bellhousing cover was natural. It was partially painted orange with the engine; the area behind the oil pan not getting much coverage.
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OK, got it, the GM cover I understand is not period correct, but I can live with that, I will be assembling the motor & trans and respraying the motor with the appropriate overspray like CHICKs engine shots in the car. I gather the fork end got a dusting also, I plan on a partial orange coverage on the bellhousing vice the full spray I have seen some folks do.
JIM
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Coated 15% Gloss via Auburn Wa Performance Coating Co.
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Beautiful
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As built Dizzy Update;
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Well with ALL the snow here in the PNW I got a LOT of garage time and finally finished the Starter rebuild.
This took a long time, cleaning, disassy, inspection, varnishing, machining, plating and reassy, & testing. I have a 101 pictures, should do a DIY post. The prior owner bought a 74 vette starter from a rebuilder and kept the dated 12*06*67 (Slightly pitted - rusty) orig in a box.
This is a Fun project since we work on submarine DC motors for the real world J-O-B.
JIM
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Those headers are awesome looking, who exactly is making those reproductions? I have been searching for a set of era correct or trunk style reproductions for my 68 for a day two look.
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WHEAT RIDGE, CO, US
Camaros Plus
'Steve Pelletier'
Header source.
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I mocked up a SHIFTER plan. Original cleaned up and to remain Boxed and stored.
Sources for the plated Comp Plus "Hurst Shifters Online (mail@hurstshiftersonline.com)" and Parts from Paul at 5speeds.com
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In production, the bellhousing cover was natural. It was partially painted orange with the engine; the area behind the oil pan not getting much coverage.
Found a $5 cover at the April Portland Swap meet.
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Why not keep and reuse your original cover as the new one has subtle differences?
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if I had option for either of those two covers (the old/original or the New) for the SAME PRICE, I'd buy the old original one! :)
Moral of the Story: Don't buy or use NEW, just because you have one or can! :) generally the old/original one is better...
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* When I got the Car it had a NEW Lakewood scatter shield set up. No GM bellhousing or cover.
So I Found a $45 used Bellhousing #403 at Puyallup swap meet & Bought the GM replacement cover. Then William suggested the "correct" access cover would be an easy find, He was Very correct $5 at the Portland swap meet.
The Muncie Shifter belong on a tractor. (That is another topic)
"Moral of the Story: Don't buy or use NEW, just because you have one or can! :) generally the old/original one is better..."
You need to add,,,,"& Very pricey on some purchases-"
(ANOTHER) unrelated REPOP Item I need to snap a picture of soon and post - Teaser!
JIM
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8)
What a NICE piece. The quality is stunning. A great match to the Headers. After seeing Chicks Butternut Ride at Chicago, I knew this was the rote I wanted to go with.
Jim
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Did some cleaning in the garage and got the SB & BB side by side shot.
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Radiator Details (Before)
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Looking great Jim. :)
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Mirror assy
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Followed the instructions of Chick and others here to work the heater controls. Had the same problem with the zinc body tabs approaching the breaking point, but got the "feel" for taking them just to the limit. Drilled & tapped the tabs 8-32 just in case but did not need to use screws during reassembly. Just cleaned up the existing parts for a good enough fluff with minimal expense. Polished the pitted zinc-chrome bezel, Painted the black out and polished the lens & knobs. The hair drier and taped pliers with the twist & pull method worked for removal. Deoxit-5 for the blower switch and re black oxide the fasteners. Lube up the pivots and sliders. Should work fine now.
JIM
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Orig Red D55 w/ U17 Up next (Great Fall project!)
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Work looks great. Keep the updates coming.
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If the console flocking is worn, you can easily restore it using duck decoy black flocking. I bought a kit on eBay for about $12. It has the black flocking material and adhesive (black paint + brush).
Mike
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I love watching your progress!
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The console was a quick project; Tear down and found the unit was very complete and the factory flocking was in great shape, only defect was a small lid crack & severely pitted shifter tunnel bezel and fragile rear light lens. Used glass bead to strip cast zinc lids and fasteners. Used a old 1980 ASL product to refresh black oxide coating of the fasteners. The RICKS (Eklers) RED # 970 covered well esp when using sem 39863 plastic adhesion promoter in concert with recoating the plastic parts. I tested the gauges using various power supplies including a HO scale train power pack to validate the amp meter and using simulation potentiometers for the senders to validate the Temp, Fuel and Amp. Simple air to check freedom of movement for action on the oil pressure gauge.
It cleaned up nicely!
Wrapped up and put away till needed.
JIM
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Rear Bumper, removed center bracket, off to plater and reattached center & installed refurbished orig lamp etc.
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What method did you use to attach the center bracket rivets?
Mike
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Only thing nicer than watching a great resto is doing one yourself. Nice job!
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Only thing nicer than watching a great resto is doing one yourself. Nice job!
Yup
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What method did you use to attach the center bracket rivets?
Mike
I used Fake Rivets from AMK, photo and PN and discussion to follow.
JIM
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Stud (Rivet/ threaded) 5/16-18 X 1 1/8 WELD STUD LP, PHOS. 4 pk, AMK part number: B-11693
Grind the pips off the back side of the rivet head.
Nut Steel Flex-Top Locknut for Heavy Vibration, Cadmium-Plated, 5/16"-18 Thread Size McMaster Carr part number 94820A237
I really could not pull the trigger on a real rivet job, seemed risky to heat and 'buck' the rivet properly.
This alternative method should work fine for a garage queen. ;)
Anyway, I need to trim the excess stud length with a Dremel and cutoff wheel to clean up the install.
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Another Fix. Not sure about the "application" (* Correctness stc.) other than this is what came off the car. When Roger took the spoiler off the corroded studs & nuts were a bear to remove and required servicing. My intent was just to replace what was "AS FOUND" I am not sure of year and source.
I found a Mcmaster-Carr double ended threaded stud and worked them over on a lathe since the replacements on line & vendors looked different.
My Car was not a D80 Car based on the trunk springs, but was as found w/ owner installer rear spoiler & will be reinstalled.
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A Recent Post (Leaf Spring question) and Reply by Kurt got me to digging.
The as built springs found on my car are Code YW 3895233, this combination did not seem correct when looking at other 68 originals and restorations. It never occurred to me to consider the Build time frame Dec 1967 (early Car?), So I finally looked at the Front springs designated for the 1967 model year Z28 per the spring tables:
GM CAMARO PARTS CATALOGUE (Group 7.000 ILLISTRATION 6)
APPLICATION 302 ENGINE Model-37 3895233 (1967 FRONT SPRINGS)
Photos attached.
So a Early LOS build 68 Z28 used leftover 67 parts,,,,,
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Interesting. A 12D LOS Z built before yours has the EE springs.
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Very interesting. I need to look and see if there is anything left on my springs now! Same build week as Jim's.
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814 Alternator (DIY) restoration underway.
I like the 42$ kits avail on line and developed home use tooling after practicing on a few 1970 834's got the process down.
I really liked the recent article in Hemmings that gave a nice play by play and the Chassis OVHL manual inclu tons of teardown pictures.
Similar work like the DC Starter Motor, clean up and varnish overcoat, polish fits, press out and install various bearings, diodes, terminals, cap, brush holder,etc,,,,,,,
just Like the J. O. B. working on Aircraft Carrier Generators,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,just smaller.
JIM
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Cleaned up and Stamps obtained and parts off to the plater soon after hardware back from Zinc plating reassy.
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Dan stopped by and We worked the flappers on the Kick Panels.
R/R/R including the foam and rivets.
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Finished
Used hardware and foam from Grainger & Mc Master-Carr, evaporust the pivot hinge hardware, glass bead, prime & paint.
These parts generally get ignored.
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Nice job,wished mine looked that good.
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Original Wiper & $5 swap meet spare. Fluff & Buff partial rebuild (i.e. the motor end not the gearbox.)
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Great work Jim!
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Thanks, The Alternator should be done soon, I am waiting on getting back on the road to visit my plater in Portland Ore.
I need to order some SEM Color Coat Portola Red for shooting some interior pieces.
SUmmer Project Test mount Doors, & Build out the dog house.
Paint Jail someday?,,,,,,,,,Just noodling on the smalls for now & it is fun at the same time.
NOS grill on the way- Spring project.
JIM
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Finished the CUT down (Sectioned) REPOP spark plug wire holders to clear the cowl plenum air cleaner interference.
Preserved the ORIG Holders that are stamped 'GT'
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This is a sample Electrical servicing when your component is 'serviceable' and not fried beyond repairs and out of sight so cosmetics are not of a concern. I really like this product. DeOxit D5 others are out there & the techniques can be applied to many variety of Camaro elect projects.
a) Clean exterior of part & polish contacts with wire brush or burnish with rubberized abrasive.
b) Select your favorite contact cleaner
c) Dowse drench flood interior cavities of the switch * Sometimes you can 'open' up the housing stamped steel tabs or crimped zinc housings to access the interior mechanisms or sliding contacts and stationary's and further work the make & break components.)
d) Using a Volt-Ohm-Meter test your electrical component operations to validate repairs or indicate further intrusive work or outright replacement.
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Grill (STD) Project & Steering (MAN) Rag Joint (SPRING-2020)
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Finished the D-I-Y 814 Alternator Rebuild.
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Nicely done Jim!
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Thanks Big Dan!
Here are a couple of new purchases and modifications.
Y55 Battery Topper (Mod a R59 for a close lookalike)
Radiator Hoses compare Big Box Camaro parts vendor to Pace Car Jeffs offerings & Replated original Dated clamps. I went brite clear zinc since galv is hard to source. The bypasses are as found style.
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Finally Working the Vehicle Wiring Harness Rehabilitation.
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Credit Jackson Speaker Service Michigan.
Jackson Speaker Service 3921 Pine Crest Ct, Jackson, MI 49203 (517) 789-6400
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Credit Glen-Ray Radiator repair
Dated Harrison Heater Core Rebuilt Dated 67L
Glen-ray Radiators, Inc. • 2105 North 6th Street • Wausau, WI 54403 • PH: 800.537.3775 or 715.842.3352
Texture Paint: Rust-Oleum 7220830 Textured Spray Paint, 12 oz, Black
Robins Egg Blue: Home Made Mix Testor Model paints White & Blue Enamel
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hugrz28 & Tom Stopped by and we worked a Batch of "ZINC PHOSPHATE" Medium Gray.
Chemical supplier Palmetto Enterprises
Accomplished a "FAIR" job the results need some fine tuning and I failed to prep a couple parts that I will re-work to obtain a better finish.
Followed Mfr's instructions as best we could with the equipment on hand, Turned out to be an affordable D.I.Y option vice the past process of Poof Canning parts.
Photos have a hard time reflecting the in person color account of flash or lighting conditions.
Was a FUN project.
Jim
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Original: Rag Joint Rebuilt.
Cleaning, Plating, New Push Nuts, Repaired Ground Strap, Detailed.
Manual Strg
Additionally: Usage of a 1969 C.I. Style Coil Bracket to allow Clearance of the air cleaner
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WOW, you are doing an incredible job on the the car...
just incredible...
On wiring harnesses I have found that using a sheet of paper tacked over a 30" wide x 6 foot long piece of plywood is a great way to layout the wiring for repairs, IT gives you a place to make notes as well as draw out the connector arrangements - it also allows you to keep everything correctly bunched while performing "surgery."
Another product I have found for dealing with wiring... is antilox - electrical joint antioxidant- I have not had issues involving electrical connections since I began using it 10 years ago, PLUS I have had people state their lights have never been brighter after going through the grounds.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xsVUOPxSqYEovveX2SHu82I-5EaNE0AurANO0ShTISI8YN1GEOechVyFsdFb3kS433-eDRZ1PRtZzr1ch7kq9D_a0bKXFrjFkt9RS1rlekaGoOWeD5bBjR_dRB5kW2IoJaH-wbw7l8gG9YWX2TM1KFwDQPOgVNz-G-MHwDOZAyjEidrVb6o73g-QqfXpKcZ_xNjmiGQSz-el2Ow7K-4YTasKkvXLPUF3mfgiBotM3j2ZCyk18_SyzAjv1MwzFSUqeM3RVnvBn9RIlmnPDXZ2GQuxZqTOUYV0STjhzoxId-ZyCn0O1UcETzHzDbXIOvzCXVXBvOBoaNkfTsvcCeH5WWGIFrSDXUhYBMtB69xpzdzGjrvCtQKYKyNTB3eTue4MRek0k2yzuxS9R4t3G6DO2RDPHkuc6z0jWi0aUZBiu9TQFnERGuCr8KUdbY8HdzkgAHn_pRrXjEX4gri_UPyAGO0JgEXDS4gTvXM_BuZl7Nz0WMuRX8HBxIxOwxYms2kLX-G-K0Lhu7dkbnFiIOB1B634x4b1ENCPFbAOJ48qyqV1Jvf5pE0CJ2hZG0u5DXpWS_mf2Mxbr8Y2Y6NesXU0c6oauF0QeKdajrObIm6NAxZx9ZNR5SrEChBRGS3S6TMDyCmtnYOsUt9pHdbpkYfOaRb2MlzhbPsunWDJKxv4VqntqiAk1qhvuuadMEV8Wg=w1240-h828-no?authuser=0)
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Muncie Shifter Before and After. Disassembled, glass beaded, Zinc Phosphated, Replaced 3923544 Retainer using a Silicone Grommet (As suggested on Chevelle.net), Lubed, Reassembled, Bagged and stored.
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Door Opening weather strip stainless channel; Polishing & Blow out clip coating repairs;
The Clips have a amber plastic coating over a black clip, mine were rusted with chunks of coating missing, So I ground off the clinched semi-tubular rivet and drove out the rivet and peeled the remaining coating, Evaporust treated the clip, primed painted then Hardware store $7 plastic-dip coated and re installed with New Hansen rivets (With Help from Friends!). When I cleaned up (Include buff wheel polished) the channels I found a narrow strip of open cell very soft 1/2 sq foam adhesive attached to the Body side of the channel & gray dum-dum at the angle corner.
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Nice work Jim! :)
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Thanks Gary! :)
worked on the tail lights; compromises made; CHQ housings (Vice GM replated Orig's) & zinc plated backs (Vice Galvanizing).
Cleaned up the Len's, and reused GM factory gaskets.
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Finished the Car!
April Fools.
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Driveshaft (PROP SHAFT) restoration: Doc existing stripes, Evapo Rust treatment, U joint removal, Prime, preserve, paint, stripe, Install New Ujoints.
DIY
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Reworked the Engine Paint using Seymour EN-48 Hi-Tech Engine Spray Paint, Chevy Orange.
Intake refreshed/Splash Shield repaired, reskinned by Camaro Hi Perf
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Engine looks really good Jim.
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Driveshaft (PROP SHAFT) restoration: Doc existing stripes, Evapo Rust treatment, U joint removal, Prime, preserve, paint, stripe, Install New Ujoints.
DIY
Driveshaft looks good. how and what did you paint it with, ie; the shaft, long shaft, with the stripe, and original markings?
soaked mine and found Three stripes orange, green, and pink. but shaft didn't come that amazing.
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The Drive shaft really could have used a new welded tube to present a bare finish that would be NEW in appearance, I chose the cheaper route of Bomb can trickery. After the evapo rust attempt to de-rust the shaft, I needed to apply a epoxy primer then a sandable filler primer, top coated by spray can alum- silver, I simulated the tube seam weld by applying a coating of Stove Bright® High Temp Paint 6197 Moss Green metallic and then masking the Simulated Weld with 1/8” masking tape. I was able to clean up the welded ends with the ears and just cleared the ends to add detail as they were treated by the evapo rust and looked great. I top coated the shaft and ends with a spray bomb can semi gloss Clear to blend everything together. Then using testors model enamel paints I added the broadcast ID stripes (White-Orange) per the normative practice for my 'engine and trans' combination. My drive shaft had very “non Rusted" areas were the stripe paint was but very very little was found during evapo rusting. I bought quality Dana Spicer U joints and studied WEBER (Utah) automotive college on line prop shaft rebuilding videos and pressed out and in my own u joints and selective clips. I did not op for a shop overhaul and wonder how it will perform?
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The Drive shaft really could have used a new welded tube to present a bare finish that would be NEW in appearance, I chose the cheaper route of Bomb can trickery. After the evapo rust attempt to de-rust the shaft, I needed to apply a epoxy primer then a sandable filler primer, top coated by spray can alum- silver, I simulated the tube seam weld by applying a coating of Stove Bright® High Temp Paint 6197 Moss Green metallic and then masking the Simulated Weld with 1/8” masking tape. I was able to clean up the welded ends with the ears and just cleared the ends to add detail as they were treated by the evapo rust and looked great. I top coated the shaft and ends with a spray bomb can semi gloss Clear to blend everything together. Then using testors model enamel paints I added the broadcast ID stripes (White-Orange) per the normative practice for my 'engine and trans' combination. My drive shaft had very “non Rusted" areas were the stripe paint was but very very little was found during evapo rusting. I bought quality Dana Spicer U joints and studied WEBER (Utah) automotive college on line prop shaft rebuilding videos and pressed out and in my own u joints and selective clips. I did not op for a shop overhaul and wonder how it will perform?
Looks awesome! that's probably be the way I do it. Thanks!
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Looking great! (Make sure those clips are fully seated in your joints)
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Local Rad guy took 6 months but we saved the top and bottom rails and reused on NEW core.
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Orig VR rebuilt
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Gen 4, Gen 2 that can get a little confusing.. Nice work regardless. Interesting to note my car's VR is dated 7L
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RIP Joe... nice guy who also restored a few of ours.
Is engine going to be judged in future?
Overall, nice work Jim....
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Thanks Guys, I appreciate the feedback.
I like to supply "credit" (i.e. acknowledgement) for the Vendors but forgot that Joe Passed on and left that detail out of the post.
No Judging in this cars future (No events in the PNW), unless I can convince a few friends to fill a Reliable truck eastward to MCACN someday.
Chick PM me your thoughts
Jim
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862 white plastic Horn relay, Had a spare leftover from the John Pirkle Days.
Quanta Tank replacement, plated orig dated clamp (4th Qtr 1967), repop hose, added anti squeek tar paper (ECS-vendor) and top-spacer (Mcmaster-Carr) & tapes (3M) and foam on the line. (*Orig tank scrapped by previous owner)
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More tank.
I have noticed the SPECTRA-QUANTA (Canadian) Tanks are very nice, but they do develop a white "Tarnish" over time and it seems they ship with a protective film.
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Thanks Guys, I appreciate the feedback.
I like to supply "credit" (i.e. acknowledgement) for the Vendors but forgot that Joe Passed on and left that detail out of the post.
No Judging in this cars future (No events in the PNW), unless I can convince a few friends to fill a Reliable truck eastward to MCACN someday.
Chick PM me your thoughts
Jim
Pm sent Jim.... Again looking good....
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Dated 1968 Camaro UN Walker Square mast "8 A" 32.5" Jack assembly source and fluffed, I think I need to strip and phosphate the commercial (AMK) replacement J hook.
Dan found a great paint avail that beats a Vintage Krylon Dove gray
SEYMOUR OF SYCAMORE
16 Fluid oz. Can Gloss Dove Grey Hi Tech Enamel
Mfr #: 16-112
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:)I Found the Used Car Ad for the Car.
NEWSPAPERS.COM
The Missoulian
17 Jan 1969, Fri · Page 22
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Nice find.
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I am also Digging to research further used sales of the Car locally in my Town in or around 1976 when the Gilmores traded in a VW as trade.
Car was Sold New in Missoula via T&W Chev. I did reach out to "Karl Tyler Chev' now Missoula Chev with little results.
This was a Fantastic find very easy using NEWSPAPERS.COM
JIM
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Steering Column Rebuild Started.
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Seam Sealer Applied using Lord Fusor Air application gun that Both sprays and extrudes (Beading) with SEM special TIP to achieve ripple effects.
Nice gun used on other projects also since this is not a daily activity for us. Heck of a clean up on the Gun and with practice you could get better results. This "TOOL" is nicer than a 7 dollar caulking gun by leaps and bounds & will have other uses.
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Great job.
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Made progress on the Column, Thanks to Darrel for the tip on the Bearing and help discussing the Adjusters that are set (staked via Heat set) at Saginaw and are not really serviceable at rebuild. (* I trimmed mine on a lathe to increase endplay to allow for proper stick out distance to get the "C" clip installed.) A Neat Video on YouTube was helpful also.
Final Wheel, Used vintage Walnut to be installed at final assy of the interior
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Interior Tub & Seam sealer painted out with Semi-Flat
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Nice work Jim. Glad you got the column back together. Column and floors look great. Keep it up!
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Step by step Jim.... As Darrell stated, “nice work”
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Swapped out the repop subframe bolts for cleaned up GM R-B-W factory fasteners
& Got the Orig turn signal stalk replated boy the Shaft was really rusty & they did the job with out damaging the Red plastic knob.
Credit Janet at "The Bumper Depot" in Calif.