CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => Restoration => Topic started by: Fanthomgreen69 on April 10, 2017, 05:51:20 PM
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Both of my heads are cracked and can not be repaired. Checked several Camaro sources with no luck. Does anyone have suggestions? Getting desperate.
Charles
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Here's a link http://camaros.com/ Bob had heads stacked by the door the last time I was there.
http://datedcomponents.classicjunkyard.com/
Corvette places might have the dates your looking for.
Good luck.
Mike
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Before you condemn them, call Joe @ Tucson Cylinder Head 520-624-7711.
Talk to him. It's only a phone call.....Joe
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186 with 2.02 Intakes? What date do you need?
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Car was built 2nd week of Feb. Heads show early Jan date build dates. Thanks for all the replies.
Charles
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Car was built 2nd week of Feb. Heads show early Jan date build dates. Thanks for all the replies.
Charles
You could also shop around for a set of original 1.94/1.50 and opened them up to 2.02/1.60. More of them around.
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If there is a good shop near you and they have the correct machine - you can have them convert some 1.94 heads to 2.02 reasonably. They will just need to unshroud the valve when they do the other work. In most cases, if they know what they are doing, your flow may end up better than factory 2.02 heads.
From other posts, JohnZ says they use a 2.34" diameter cutter.
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Think I found a shop locally. They say they can repair the heads and suggested I could have the water jackets ceramic coated to ensure a better seal. They didn't think I needed to have hardened valve seats installed. Has anyone had water jackets ceramic coated? Would it be better? Also, I have heard for a long time about hardened valve seats being necessary when running unleaded gas. Any thoughts?
Charles
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If your pulling a loaded horse trailer where ever you go the hard seats would be advised.
Only heavily loaded engines will benefit from the seats.
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Cracked heads can be repaired. RE ceramic coating inside the heads. A jillion GM motors didn't need it, I doubt there's any real benefit to you. While the shop is doing the machine work, you might as well have them install hardened seats.
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When cutting the head for the seat, there is a possibility of cutting into the water jacket. So, as previously stated, unless you are loading the engine really hard there isn't a need for the hardened seats.
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I did hardened seats when building my DZ recently. I've beat myself up over that scenario many times over the last 20-some odd years. To do or not to do. Anymore now I just do it on every build. It's not overly expensive and really there is no reason not to do it. Piece of mind for me since I plan on running the car in PS, plus it's daily driven so it will get used a bit. Zimmerman Racing did mine and he uses a specific hardened seat for the 1.60 valve that he prefers. No trouble at all with water jackets. Good to use a high end shop with experience, pay a little more but better end result. I also like the hardened seat idea to avoid the possibility, or at least reduce the risk of sinking valves which affects your lash adjustments if not checked periodically, but more importantly, it affects spring pressures, something I'm pretty picky about on a high strung engine.
Even with all that said, I built my Formula engine 20 years ago to go PS racing, and it's been run pretty hard over the years along with long road trips (several hundred miles at a time). I didn't do hardened seats on this build, and it's run pump gas since day one. I just recently pulled it apart for a refresh/inspection and the seats/valves looked beautiful with virtually no wear, valves sat up nice and tall on the seats like it was just put together yesterday.
I do run a little 2 cycle engine oil mixed in with my pump gas to add some lubricity in the fuel. I tend to think that helps the situation.
To the OP, if it were me and needing a set of 186's, I'd look at any of the 1.94 sets and not think twice about it, Port size and combustion size are identical, and will open up your ability to find a good date. Because as far as I'm concerned, any set I'd use would go straight to the machine shop anyway for a new set of valves, guides, seats etc....and when doing all that it's nothing for the shop to go ahead and upgrade to a 2.02/1.60 setup. At that point you have yourself a set of Z/28 186's.