CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => Garage Talk => Topic started by: janobyte on September 12, 2016, 11:29:41 PM
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How have I not heard of the product until this site? I'm in the process of restoring my steering linkage, and originally dropped them at the arms. The front end is tight, never had an alignment, never needed one. The complete unit is from the factory, retaining factory adjustments, so I don't want to bust it apart. Sort of a deal to me.
Everything cleaned up relatively easy...with the exception of the arms. Hidden, they never received any additional coating, and looked it. Soaked them for 12 hours, got home from work and pulled them out of the containers, voila, look freshly cast !
Reviewed the thread on bluing the center link(Bill-Chick), going that route. After doing some research, I'm trying the cold method, appears to work. Looks like both ends had red inspection marks with an orange dab in the middle.
Sub frame back on, control arms attached, steering box( restored by Camaro Specialties), fasteners re-phosphated, excited to start buttoning the front end up. So much time involved.
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I did my center link twice with the cold product, Birchwood casey, and couldn't keep it from corrosion. First time I coated with rpm and 2nd time with a liquid called drive touch amber from birchwood technology. Not sure what it's doing but I am about ready to try something different. Maybe the dark blue hammer paint over a black primer
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That brigs up a good question. I helped my nieghbor find a 68 Camaro convertible, which spent the last 20-30 years in a barn where it appears there was quite a bit of moisture. Luckily no rot, but there is a lot of surface rust and scale/corrosion on the suspension parts and rear end (similar to your car I think Bill). He has a product called chem dip, that he says works like evaporust.
So my question: once you are able to bring back that clean metal. For an original car, where you are trying to retain, the surrounding original painted surfaces, what do you recommend to put on the metal? Clear coat it?
thanks
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I'm trying a product called Brownells:Oxpho-Blue. Appears a tedious process(sort of like theses), apply up to 5x's--oil. My other bare steel, I've sprayed it down ASAP out of the cabinet with After Blast, then treated with Sharkhide. So far no flash rust.Theses were done last winter.Whatever was on the idler arm bracket, appeared more of a flat black dipped coating vs. bare-bluing, etc. I say this because it was on the mating surface.Just my opinion. BTY, picked up a CH siphon blasting gun off Amazon for under 14 dollars. Used baking soda@90-120 psi, happy with results. Bad for a neighborhood(dust cloud), great out in the country.
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Adding to, I saw on a video where Detroit Spring recommends VHT high temp clear. I'm still not to keen on blasting the new coating off the Moog's. They might just get coated with an industrial grade marine wax I have for the boat, and stay black. Real PITA if they start rusting in the future.
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When I did the center link on our 68 several years ago (in my build thread) I used what is called cold bluing and can be purchased on line or normally a gun shop. Works easy but after the process you do have to both stop the acidic process and protect. After several years of use by myself and passing onto car buddies we all really like the product quanta sells. Granted our recently completed 68 is not driven but center link looks new as it should. Also a great product for assisting with preserving survivor parts. When it dries there is not glossy film. I received the tip on this product from a NCRS judging friend and he has given me some great tips over the years.
http://www.gastanks.com/RestoGuard-Dry-All-Metal-Protector-Lubricant-12-oz-spray-can/productinfo/05-11/
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Just placed the order for a couple cans, I needed some yellow and red inspection paint anayway( which I just overlooked on another order).
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:) Won't the inspector come with his own paint....???? ... :) :)
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:) Won't the inspector come with his own paint....???? ... :) :)
HA HA.
By the looks, he came with a lot. Splashed on, ends of the link had remains of red about 2" up the shafts on both ends. I'm replicaticating...to an extent.
Did you blue the inner and outer tie rods also, along with the idler arm? Can't tell in the "center link finish thread" My bracket appeared to be coated, as some remained on the mating surface. May just how it came out of the wash, so to speak.
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On my '59, the center link was the only piece that appeared to be 'blued'
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Thanks, that's what I assumed, just verifying.
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I have used Evaporust for years-used to blast my rusty bolts etc-now just soak them overnight in evaporust-after I rinse with water and dry I spray Boeshield T-9 on my parts.
Keep on Cruising!!!
Dave
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Evaporust is great for spraying exposed threads on installed bolts. Wait overnight and they come out easy.