CRG Discussion Forum
Camaro Research Group Discussion => Restoration => Topic started by: DAVEN1256 on December 29, 2015, 02:53:04 AM
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I am getting ready to install the kick panels back in my '68 and will be putting new sealant in where the kick panels screw on to the kick panel area of the car.
Why did the factory apply such an excessive gob of sealant on the the kick panel? Half of it never made contact with anything. ( See the area between the red lines in my first picture. )
Is there any sense in applying that much again?
And should the sealant necessarily be applied to the kick panel itself as opposed to it's mating surface on the car?
It would make more sense to me to put a good bead of sealant on the mating surface on the car ( In the area between the red lines in my second picture) and then push the kick panel (with no sealant on it) in place.
And for what it is worth, the metal on the kick panel mating surfaces of my car has been replaced so I am going to have to locate my kick panels in the correct position and then use them as a template to drill new holes in the metal on the car. I am going to dry fit the kick panels, drill my holes, and then apply the sealant and install them.
So my questions are should I put the sealant on the kick panel or it's mating surface on the car......and do you need to put as much on as the factory did?
Thanks.....Dave
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t386/daven1256/IMG_4525_zpsgyccvuma.jpg) (http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/daven1256/media/IMG_4525_zpsgyccvuma.jpg.html)
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t386/daven1256/IMG_9339_zpsgu89gzja.jpg) (http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/daven1256/media/IMG_9339_zpsgu89gzja.jpg.html)
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-Duct-Seal-Compound-Plug-DS-110/100212441 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-Duct-Seal-Compound-Plug-DS-110/100212441)
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I am also interested in answers to these questions, as I will be doing the same thing in a few months -
"So my questions are should I put the sealant on the kick panel or it's mating surface on the car......and do you need to put as much on as the factory did?"
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I'm sure the designers had their reasons. I suspect one is being this is a critical area to seal so water (when raining) that is under pressure, and in cases of dry days, air (when you don't want it for venting that is), don't leak into the passenger compartment. The wash and dry design of the cowl and rockers relies on airflow pressure to work so the excess of sealer ensures a good seal especially with water. IMO, I would apply it to the kick panel side and in large quantity as done originally.
Mike
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Sorry.. I didn't read the question correctly. As for why sealer was used; try putting the kick panels in without it and wash the car or get caught in the rain.. When I installed mine in the 67 I put about a 1" tall dam around on the kick panel to allow it flatten out evenly and haven't had any issues. Also use a heat gun to soften up the kick panel lip so it'll pop into place easier.
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I agree with Cook_dw - I used the Gardner Bender putty from Home Depot as well. I warmed it in my hands to make it very plyable able put a VERY liberal amount on the Kick Panel. I this case, more is better than less as long as you make sure it is warm and easy to form.
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I did one years ago, and like you I thought it was way over done so I put less material on. Boy what a mistake it only took one rain storm to notice the water in my floor board! and to top it all off it was the drivers side ( you know what that means, emergency brake in the way) Now I over do it! Having done many of first Gens since Ive never had another leak! And I always used pumbers putty!
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The ones I have done I roll the sealer out by hand about the size of a hot dog, and press well into place as your tightening up the screws.
Mike
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Thanks for all the replies.
I will make sure I use plenty of sealant. It's cheap and any excess won't hurt anything.
I will apply it to the kick panel like that factory did.
I might also put some around the opening that the kick panel goes into. My reasoning for that is that is because the metal that forms that opening has been replaced with reproduction pieces......With repro pieces being what they are, there's no guarantee that the opening is the exactly the same place as it was before in relation to the the kick panel. That's why I was thinking that putting the sealant on the metal might be a better idea....If I put it on both, I should be covered.
Dave